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talonXracer
05-22-2010, 12:16 PM
Well the sunroof has been left open a few times, drinks have been spilled, windows left down, a leaking rear wiper hose and bad rear strut "O"rings has caused the carpet and padding to develop an odor and to have allowed some corrosion to form on the floor sheet metal. Not too mention all the salt stains and dirt, time to remove it!!!

I removed the seats and carpet today(disconnect the batt first!). There are a few spots in the corners of the seat pan and the rear of the door posts that have seen alot of dampness. I will use a wire wheel to get the loose rust off and then treat it with Chassis-Saver to stop the corrosion. http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

The plan is to then apply LizardSkin sound control and the heat barrier http://www.lizardskin.com/ , followed by Monsta-Liner http://www.magnetpaints.com/bedliner1.asp on the floor. But first comes the removal of the original sound deadener tar crap.

I havnt ever had to remove the rear seat side plastic, I have to remove it to get at the corrosion down in the corners as well as to apply the LizardSkin sound deadener to the back side of all the interior panels(eliminates squeaks and gives the car a solid sound), Proven aerospace technology enables LizardSkin® Ceramic Insulation to:

* Reduce engine and solar heat transfer by 25-30 degrees or more

* Reduce noise by 10-12 decibels or more

* Protect surfaces from moisture and corrosion

* Withstand temperatures to 500° F. (260° C.).

Update, pics so far
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1077.jpg

here you can see the corrosion, it is puzzling as it appears to be a powder on top of the factory sound deadener as well as a very thin surface rust on an exposed body seam
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1078.jpg

In this pic you can see where the water lay and changed the color of the sound deadener and caused the cover over the Ebrake cables to rust!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1081.jpg

OK, here is a pic of the offending corner with the sealer and insulation removed, I have spot blasted as much of the corrosion away. I will need to get under the car and inspect that seam on the underside and make sure there isnt a opening in the seam sealer. I may just remove the underside seam sealer in that area and inject the ChassisSaver with a hypo into the seam and re-seal it with 3m seam sealer.

I had even considered removing all the seam sealer on the inside and breaking out the mig and stitch welding the seam.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior.jpg


I removed the triangular supports over the rear shock mount areas and was shocked by how much corrosion there was. It appears to have entered at the rear shock areas, I think the strut "O" rings had leaked on the mugenSS suspension, I have cleaned the areas up slightly to get the debris off and get a close inspection done on the area and it will be easily saved with the blaster and the Chassis-Saver.

view from the rear, you can see the shop light on the areas I am talking about,
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior003.jpg

drivers side
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior001.jpg

pass side
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior002.jpg

I have heard alot of horror stories about Dynamat, well I discovered the horrors in reality!!!!!!!!!!
A single wrinkle allowed the water from the leaking strut "O"ring to enter under the Dynamat and sit and corrode the living shit out of the sheet metal. Again luckily this area is not a load bearing or stress area, so it is another fairly easy fix, but I really didnt want to see or have to repair this kind of crap!!!!!!!!!

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior004.jpg

OK, I removed most of the Xtreme Dynamat from the bottom of the spare tire well, this stuff is a real bear to remove! Only one spot that is aout the size of a quarter that rotted thru. All the rot will be removed by blasting and I will use some epoxy and tri-weave cloth(mixture of E-glas, Cf, and Kevlar) to repair/replace/reinforce the damaged areas. The new circular plugs are 2.67$ each.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior007.jpg

I have the old Xtreme Dynamat almost completely removed. What remains is some very sticky gooey black snot. A quick splash with S8 reducer and some minor elbow rubbing it comes off.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior008.jpg

UPDATE
OK, got a little more done. I stopped at Tractor supply and picked up a new sandblaster, now I just need some blast media, aka sand. The Black Diamond media I have is far too heavy, close to 30-40 grit, the blaster uses 80grit and finer.

I also snagged 30 lbs of dry ice and went to town. What a mess! LOL significantly easier than heat. Still leaves residue and isnt wait 5 minutes and it pops itself off,,,LOL more like wait 10 minutes or so and start chipping with a chisel/scraper and a hammer for about 15-20 minutes per section(4 sections).

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior009.jpg

Monday I will pick up a bag or two of #1 sand and blast everything and get it sealed with a coat of chassis saver. I have a novel approach in tools to apply the Chassis-Saver with(so stay tuned for pic's!)

I also ordered up 4 gallons of the LizardSkin sound control yesterday from Summit(they shipped it yesterday as well) and it should be here by Wednesday.

UPDATE

Yeah ALOT of work !

BUT SHE IS RUST FREE !!!!!!!

Here is the rear tub all de-rusted and the majority of the asphalt crap removed http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior012.jpg

And here it is with a coat of ChassisSaver applied finally
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior013.jpg

I still need to remove the rear strut nuts, jack up the rear and allow the struts to drop down so that I can blast that area.

The LizardSkin arrived today, it will probably start going on this weekend.

A little more done today. The temps have been dropping all day long, I put the coat on the center section around 2pm, and due to the high humidity it was dry in around an hour vrs 3 hours yesterday(it is moisture cure), it needs at least one more coat but it iwent below 50 degrees around 4pm. I hope tomorrow is a tad warmer !
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior014.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior015.jpg

Anyways, I got the third coat on at noon. I also got the entire rear wheel wells, that includes the seams between the inner and outer metal panels and down in the corners for the outer panels. A true rust proofing!
pass side hatch area
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior016.jpg
pass side rear seat area
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior018.jpg
drivers side hatch area
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior017.jpg
And 1 two gallon tub of LizardSkin and the spraygun.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior019.jpg

UPDATE
I got the front portion of the cab done with one coat of ChassiSaver, I will have the second coat done tonight and get a third on in the morning. Then tomorrow night I will remove the headliner completly and start scuffing up the rest of the interior panels, then start masking it off for the LizardSkin on Sunday.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior020.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior021.jpg

Totally encapsulated!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior022.jpg

OK guy's, can anyone else tell me what they have stamped into their chassis in this spot. It is directly under the shifter on the exhaust tunnel, I didnt fill in the stamping so it was easily readable.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior024.jpg

I forgot to post up this pic, the best tool for applying the ChassiSaver. You start with this tool as you can get the tip up under the edges of sheet metal seams, down in cracks etc and squirt a fair amount in, then allow it to seep thru and run out, then break out the brush and continue with coating that area.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior030.jpg


Ok I collected all the internal stuff that seen corrosion, the cabin cross bar, cross bar brackets, and Ebrake stuff.

Here is the Ebrake assembly, notice the RUST ! ! ! Why do automakers use non-painted steel in cars?
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior027.jpg

And here it is all blasted clean!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior029.jpg

Here is everything coated,
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior032.jpg

Update.....

Well the temps and humidity have dropped enough to spray the LizardSkin. Besides I have been up at the mtn lake cabin for a couple weeks during the day due to the heat.

first coat on the cab floor
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior037.jpg

first coat in the back
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior038.jpg

here it is with the two coats of the Sound Control, tomorrow I will spray the LizardSkin Thermal Control, notice the newly sprayed SoundControl is a light blue gray, and drys to a flat medium grey color.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior039.jpg

I also sprayed the backside of the left and right rear plastic. I got the full amount of SoundControl on them and I tried rapping on the plastic and was rather dissapointed with the typical plastic sound. BUT I went out after the SC had dried a couple of hours and tried rapping on the plastic and it made a thud sound instead of the typical plastic thwack sound, I also tried rapping the cab floor and it also had the nice dull thud sound.


....this thread continued two posts down....

Passenger
05-22-2010, 01:16 PM
Keep us updated w/ pics! I removed al ot of the sound tar stuff in the back (when I was a ricey hs kid) and Ive regretted it since .LMK how that sound stuff works I'd love to have a completely noise-free (except exhaust tone) cabin.

skoolnu
05-22-2010, 03:12 PM
use dry ice to pull the original sound deadener. will take all of 5 mins.

talonXracer
05-22-2010, 05:24 PM
page II

Here are the backside of the rear panels
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior042.jpg

The first coat of the Thermal barrier, it is a very lightweight ceramic filled goop.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior040.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior041.jpg

Well the interior of the car is completely sprayed now. The sides and roof got 3 coats of SoundControl, and the floor got 2 coats of SoundControl and two coats of the Ceramic Thermal coating. I will put some poly-fill in the void between the inner panel and rear quarter panel. Already the SC has greatly reduced the tone when slapping the quarter panel behind the rear door, it is no longer a bongo drum !
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior043.jpg

Started running the electrical back where it goes, still have to clean the ground points, then coat them with battery terminal.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior044.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior045.jpg

UPDATE
Well the headliner is done. I am very satisfied with the fabric spray from Dupli-color. I tried to find somewheres out of the sun to take a pic, but the sun shines thru the foliage in spots, but you can see that there are no spray patterns. Do make sure you get the flat colors and not the gloss, or it will look extremely rice.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior048.jpg

1 can=crap

2 cans=still crap

3 cans= starting to look ok

4 cans=this might actually work

5 cans=Wow, nice job!

I cleaned and dyed the sunroof sliding cover. I then took one of the "B" pillars that I had already hit with the sandblaster and tried the DupliColor stuff on it as well it took nicely and had a very even appearance. Even though it is the flat black dye it does have a slight satin finish to it on the plastic, just perfect, the gloss would be sickly rice looking.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior049.jpg

UPDATE
Well there is finally a warm enough day, with the following 24hrs above 55 degrees. I had scuffed up the Lizardskin and wiped down with mek several weeks ago, did another blow out and wipe down.

I mixed up the Monstaliner and started applying it into the corners in a dabbing motion and then rolled out the flat areas. First coat done, second coat in 5 hours.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior052.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior051.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior050.jpg

I had a rippin buzz after the first coat....forgot the carbon prefilter on my mask...

The second coat gives the distinctive bed liner texture, and it will be 100% UV proof. It will have a satin finish when cured. When the sun directly hits the liner material it DOES NOT get hot.

skoolnu
05-22-2010, 08:50 PM
i got about 25lbs of it, and it was more than enough... i got it from a place that sells dry ice. it was like 90 cents a pound. made life so easy. when i say 5 mins to get rid of all that crap, i anit kidding.

johnkimble
05-22-2010, 08:56 PM
crazy, I'm really interested in seeing that lizard skin applied.

as for dry ice, I had to get some for a bio project once -- they had it at my grocery store.

talonXracer
05-23-2010, 08:24 AM
I took the opportunity last night to dissassemble the center dash and remove the head unit and all the heater controls and lower 3 push buttons. Then I went and degreased the console and painted the exposed silver areas and double sided tape from the Honda CF overlay with a satin black Duracoat. This simply mod/task really increased the appearance of the CF overlay 1000%

I also took the opportunity to finish installing the Cig lighter wiring and remove the wiring for the XM radio, seeing I no longer waste money on a subscription.

I discovered that the only places close to me that carry dry ice are welding supply houses, that should be easy enough to get during the week.

Cheep3
05-23-2010, 10:03 AM
I took the opportunity last night to dissassemble the center dash and remove the head unit and all the heater controls and lower 3 push buttons. Then I went and degreased the console and painted the exposed silver areas and double sided tape from the Honda CF overlay with a satin black Duracoat. This simply mod/task really increased the appearance of the CF overlay 1000%.

So did you reinstall the overlay? I've looked at the silver outline of mine a few times and thought - Sharpie? Probably a good thing I didn't have a black sharpie laying around at the time... Post a pic when you're able. I really do like the overall darker look of the CF overlay, but the "tacked over" look of it bugs me.

talonXracer
05-23-2010, 11:39 AM
No, I didnt have to remove the overlay at all. The great thing about it is the very fact of the lifted mounting of the tape, the small brush I used slid along between the overlay and the base panel, worked great, eliminated that ugly silver outline completely!!!!!


......

I got the rear side panels off and the corrosion doesnt appear to be as bad as I first thought, most of the rust on the floor appears to be very light surface rust and rust dust deposits that have come from the stock unpainted cabin tie bar, which is great, very easy fixs! I should pull the headliner as well and disable the sunroof half-way stop, clean and lube the roof slider assembly and soundproof the roof as well. I better order another 2 gallons of the LizardSkin, this way I can do the roof and BEHIND the internal sheet metal panels, Once again a simple job has snowballed! LOL

Kerby
05-24-2010, 04:47 AM
enough with the gibber jabber.... More pics!!! :msmile:
I'm a very visual person.... I learn and order my food by pictures!:mangel:

talonXracer
05-24-2010, 10:03 AM
OK, here is a pic of the offending corner with the sealer and insulation removed, I have spot blasted as much of the corrosion away. I will need to get under the car and inspect that seam on the underside and make sure there isnt a opening in the seam sealer. I may just remove the underside seam sealer in that area and inject the ChassisSaver with a hypo into the seam and re-seal it with 3m seam sealer.

I had even considered removing all the seam sealer on the inside and breaking out the mig and stitch welding the seam.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior.jpg

talonXracer
05-25-2010, 06:48 AM
I got a chance to get under the car and take a quick looksee, it appears the backside is very well sealed, but I will try some dye to see if it seeps thru.

HondaFreak
05-25-2010, 08:36 AM
Ha ha you poor man. I feel your pain. I spent damn near 2 weeks removing every f'n inch of that crap. When these cars were built the fool on the glue was told to have fun. Btw, have you tried a heat gun? I found it easier to remove the sound deadening, then hit it with acetone. A wire wheel on a drill works great on the seam glue, it's just messy. Man that's a nightmare you got going.

Christian

dirtyMETHOD
05-25-2010, 08:50 AM
nice, cant wait to see the lizard skin. good luck

talonXracer
05-25-2010, 09:24 AM
Ha ha you poor man. I feel your pain. I spent damn near 2 weeks removing every f'n inch of that crap. When these cars were built the fool on the glue was told to have fun. Btw, have you tried a heat gun? I found it easier to remove the sound deadening, then hit it with acetone. A wire wheel on a drill works great on the seam glue, it's just messy. Man that's a nightmare you got going.

Christian

It really isnt too bad, I just keep up with the shop vac, the messy part is the black diamond blast media!

I use several width carbon steel scrapers and a plastic deadblow hammer, time consuming to get the crap away from the corroded area, but an essential job.

To get the majority off, I will use dry ice I think. I may just leave the rest of the stock asphalt/tar stuff in, and just apply the LizardSkin over it. I am not going for weight reduction, just increase sound and thermal efficiencies, repair the corrosion, and give the car a solid feel sound.

I started to take the deadfoot rest and remove the insulation against the lower firewall to apply ChassisSaver and LizardSkin as I found a little rust there as well.

THE interior sheet metal panels on the pass side rear are VERY dusty/dirty and it appears the little flap on the water seal of the air vent appears to have been stuck open, which explains the constant water seen in the trunk, LOL, but luckily I had sealed that area with ChassisSaver a few years ago before applying the Dynamat in the spare tire well.

02_epdriver
05-25-2010, 09:36 AM
It's going to be a brand new car after all this work. Props to you Doug. I did this crap to the last 96 EK hatch I had. It sucked

talonXracer
05-25-2010, 10:11 AM
Cleaning the chassis and then scuffing and wiping down with prepsol will take the longest I think, next will be sanding, cleaning and taping off of the interior plastic panels.

talonXracer
05-25-2010, 04:32 PM
Found about a dozen or so small spots of corrosion and blasted them, mostly up around the rear upper strut mount area.

talonXracer
05-26-2010, 09:08 AM
I removed the triangular supports over the rear shock mount areas and was shocked by how much corrosion there was. It appears to have entered at the rear shock areas, I have no idea how but it has, I have cleaned the areas up slightly to get the debris off and get a close inspection done on the area and it will be easily saved with the blaster and the Chassis-Saver.

view from the rear, you can see the shop light on the areas I am talking about,
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior003.jpg

drivers side
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior001.jpg

pass side
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior002.jpg

Kerby
05-26-2010, 11:18 AM
looks like you caught it just in time before it did any major damage.
could have been worse.

introvert
05-26-2010, 11:21 AM
Wow.. that's one hell of an undertaking. Nice work, looking forward to seeing updates and the final product. Good luck!

talonXracer
05-26-2010, 12:44 PM
I have heard alot of horror stories about Dynamat, well I discovered the horrors in reality!!!!!!!!!!
A single wrinkle allowed the water from the leaking strut "O"ring to enter under the Dynamat and sit and corrode the living shit out of the sheet metal. Again luckily this area is not a load bearing or stress area, so it is another fairly easy fix, but I really didnt want to see or have to repair this kind of crap!!!!!!!!!

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior004.jpg

talonXracer
05-27-2010, 08:51 AM
OK, I removed most of the Xtreme Dynamat from the bottom of the spare tire well, this stuff is a real bear to remove! Only one spot that is aout the size of a quarter that rotted thru. All the rot will be removed by blasting and I will use some epoxy and tri-weave cloth(mixture of E-glas, Cf, and Kevlar) to repair/replace/reinforce the damaged areas. The new circular plugs are 2.67$ each.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior007.jpg

talonXracer
05-28-2010, 01:29 PM
I have the old Xtreme Dynamat almost completely removed. What remains is some very sticky gooey black snot. A quick splash with S8 reducer and some minor elbow rubbing it comes off.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior008.jpg

Kerby
05-30-2010, 06:37 PM
wow. what a PITA! looking really good man. Keep it up.

EP_EJAY
05-31-2010, 03:49 PM
EEEEEKKKKK looks like a lot of work

talonXracer
06-01-2010, 06:30 PM
wow. what a PITA! looking really good man. Keep it up.


EEEEEKKKKK looks like a lot of work



Oh my you guys, you just do not understand the personal hell this has become! LOL

Extreme Dynamat has made it's way up near the top of the list as the most worthless, destructive BS made for a DD!!!!!!!

talonXracer
06-05-2010, 11:02 AM
OK, got a little more done. I stopped at Tractor supply and picked up a new sandblaster, now I just need some blast media, aka sand. The Black Diamond media I have is far too heavy, close to 30-40 grit, the blaster uses 80grit and finer.

I also snagged 30 lbs of dry ice and went to town. What a mess! LOL significantly easier than heat. Still leaves residue and isnt wait 5 minutes and it pops itself off,,,LOL more like wait 10 minutes or so and start chipping with a chisel/scraper and a hammer for about 15-20 minutes per section(4 sections).

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior009.jpg

Monday I will pick up a bag or two of #1 sand and blast everything and get it sealed with a coat of chassis saver. I have a novel approach in tools to apply the Chassis-Saver with(so stay tuned for pic's!)

I also ordered up 4 gallons of the LizardSkin sound control yesterday from Summit(they shipped it yesterday as well) and it should be here by Wednesday.

HondaFreak
06-05-2010, 12:40 PM
Oh my you guys, you just do not understand the personal hell this has become! LOL

yup, I know what it's about, I did every inch of my car. That crap is even under the dash on the dash try.


OK, got a little more done. I stopped at Tractor supply and picked up a new sandblaster, now I just need some blast media, aka sand. The Black Diamond media I have is far too heavy, close to 30-40 grit, the blaster uses 80grit and finer.

I also snagged 30 lbs of dry ice and went to town. What a mess! LOL significantly easier than heat. Still leaves residue and isnt wait 5 minutes and it pops itself off,,,LOL more like wait 10 minutes or so and start chipping with a chisel/scraper and a hammer for about 15-20 minutes per section(4 sections).

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior009.jpg

Monday I will pick up a bag or two of #1 sand and blast everything and get it sealed with a coat of chassis saver. I have a novel approach in tools to apply the Chassis-Saver with(so stay tuned for pic's!)

Isn't the media blaster going to remove the paint? I'm guessing it prolly doesn't matter though.

Christian

talonXracer
06-05-2010, 01:28 PM
I am only going to blast the corrosion. no need in going overboard.

Kerby
06-05-2010, 03:35 PM
Talon... that last pic was all the tar off?
Holy crap... how much dynomat did you put down?

looks like a good time to order yourself a ITR B-Pillar Floor Bar and install it.

talonXracer
06-05-2010, 05:05 PM
Talon... that last pic was all the tar off?
Holy crap... how much dynomat did you put down?

looks like a good time to order yourself a ITR B-Pillar Floor Bar and install it.

That is the remains of the stock stuff after the dryice! Tough stuff!

I already have a set of braces being welded up as we speak. it ultilizes the rearmost seatbelt mount(USDM uses the front of the two mount points) up to the stock cross bar, and another two diagonals going down to the inner rear seat mounts incorporating the 1" riser for the typeS leather seats I have.

EpThreeD
06-06-2010, 01:26 PM
Wow so much work..

talonXracer
06-08-2010, 01:18 PM
Yeah ALOT of work !

BUT SHE IS RUST FREE !!!!!!!

Here is the rear tub all de-rusted and the majority of the asphalt crap removed http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior012.jpg

And here it is with a coat of ChassisSaver applied finally
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior013.jpg

I still need to remove the rear strut nuts, jack up the rear and allow the struts to drop down so that I can blast that area.

The LizardSkin arrived today, it will probably start going on this weekend.

02_epdriver
06-08-2010, 11:39 PM
Wow Doug that look great.

talonXracer
06-09-2010, 05:21 AM
These two pics show the night and day difference
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior007.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior012.jpg


I still have to finish removing the head liner and sunroof assembly(this afternoon), finish blasting and sealing with ChassiSaver(tomorrow), then scuff all the internal metal panels, clean the piss out of the interior and tape it off for the LizardSkin.

thaseint
06-09-2010, 05:58 AM
Looks good, can't wait to see the final result. Looking forward to seeing how the Lizardskin stuff turns out.

One of these days I need to do the same, stripping the sound deadener. Not sure if I'll add any deadening since I'll be keeping my full interior so the added noise shouldn't be too bad.

Maybe I missed it but what sort of hammer did you use when chiseling away the OEM deadener?

I was thinking maybe a rubber mallet or something...don't want to dent up my chassis in the process. :mbiggrin:

talonXracer
06-09-2010, 06:09 AM
I used several fine blade chisel's and a dual head hammer that has a plastic head and then the other side is rubber.

dirtyMETHOD
06-09-2010, 06:24 AM
I am only going to blast the corrosion. no need in going overboard.

I think you're past that point already...

keep up the great work.

Chad
06-09-2010, 07:05 AM
I do not envy you one bit....

BTW, How's the back feeling? I KNOW you have racked up way more hours bending over that hatch than I ever have.

talonXracer
06-09-2010, 07:24 AM
It is killing me, luckily I also have a few local kids that love anything mechanical, so I get them to do alot of the real mind and back numbing stuff. Free labor for free knowledge.

talonXracer
06-09-2010, 03:22 PM
A little more done today. The temps have been dropping all day long, I put the coat on the center section around 2pm, and due to the high humidity it was dry in around an hour vrs 3 hours yesterday(it is moisture cure), it needs at least one more coat but it iwent below 50 degrees around 4pm. I hope tomorrow is a tad warmer !
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior014.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior015.jpg

02_epdriver
06-10-2010, 12:16 AM
Brand new Ep. That looks awesome.

talonXracer
06-10-2010, 01:38 PM
Better than new! LOL

I have the design finished and starting on the layout for the rear deck/sub enclosure and the amp rack/storage area that I had previously prototyped. These will be Epoxy/wood/foam/glas/Cf creations. I think that I will vacuum bag some nice Cf for the top layer, figured I would continue the Cf theme from the dash, LOL

talonXracer
06-10-2010, 05:13 PM
Anyways, I got the third coat on at noon. I also got the entire rear wheel wells, that includes the seams between the inner and outer metal panels and down in the corners for the outer panels. A true rust proofing!
pass side hatch area
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior016.jpg
pass side rear seat area
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior018.jpg
drivers side hatch area
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior017.jpg
And 1 two gallon tub of LizardSkin and the spraygun.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior019.jpg

Silvercard
06-10-2010, 05:16 PM
It is killing me, luckily I also have a few local kids that love anything mechanical, so I get them to do alot of the real mind and back numbing stuff. Free labor for free knowledge.

Good Deal! I wish i was one of those kids lol

02_epdriver
06-10-2010, 11:37 PM
LOL Doug how long have you had those shoes? I swear I've seen those shoes in other project pics you've posted back in 08.

talonXracer
06-11-2010, 06:52 AM
LOL Doug how long have you had those shoes? I swear I've seen those shoes in other project pics you've posted back in 08.

LOL, those are my work sneakers, they have been repaired several times with Sho-Goo. They are not housebroken though and just like a old hound dog they stink to high heaven when wet! LOL

02_epdriver
06-11-2010, 07:04 AM
LOL, those are my work sneakers, they have been repaired several times with Sho-Goo. They are not housebroken though and just like a old hound dog they stink to high heaven when wet! LOL

:tehehyper::tehehyper: I knew they looked fimiliar.

talonXracer
06-11-2010, 02:37 PM
I got the front portion of the cab done with one coat of ChassiSaver, I will have the second coat done tonight and get a third on in the morning. Then tomorrow night I will remove the headliner completly and start scuffing up the rest of the interior panels, then start masking it off for the LizardSkin on Sunday.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior020.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior021.jpg

Totally encapsulated!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior022.jpg

OK guy's, can anyone else tell me what they have stamped into their chassis in this spot. It is directly under the shifter on the exhaust tunnel, I didnt fill in the stamping so it was easily readable.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior024.jpg

Jukka
06-11-2010, 03:01 PM
under the headliner there really isnt much to work on. The sunroof motor/slider assembly takes up probably 3/4 of the roof line. I've been rocking no headliner for almost a year now. And dropping that out isnt gonna be the most fun thing in the world. But nice progress so far.

talonXracer
06-12-2010, 12:39 PM
I forgot to post up this pic, the best tool for applying the ChassiSaver. You start with this tool as you can get the tip up under the edges of sheet metal seams, down in cracks etc and squirt a fair amount in, then allow it to seep thru and run out, then break out the brush and continue with coating that area.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior030.jpg


Ok I collected all the internal stuff that seen corrosion, the cabin cross bar, cross bar brackets, and Ebrake stuff.

Here is the Ebrake assembly, notice the RUST ! ! ! Why do automakers use non-painted steel in cars?
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior027.jpg

And here it is all blasted clean!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior029.jpg

Here is everything coated,
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior032.jpg

03Si757
06-12-2010, 03:08 PM
This reminds me of the 69 gto were restoring at work....

talonXracer
06-12-2010, 03:46 PM
This ChassiSaver is awesome as far as restoration goes. We did a old 62' duece and a half frame(meant to be a log truck) entirely blasted and the sprayed with Chassis saver, That was 5 years ago and the log truck frame looks like new after a quick powerwashing!

03Si757
06-12-2010, 06:24 PM
Ya, I just know what kinda work and hassle it is.... I cant wait till the day (which isnt far) this damn car roles out of out shop lol...

Recent cell pics if your curious....

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/6348/imag0071t.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/6148/imag0072a.jpg
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/9540/imag0073f.jpg

talonXracer
06-12-2010, 07:39 PM
That is a indepth restoration for sure! We used to go down to the SouthWest every winter and pick up that winters project car and do a complete ground up restoration by spring time and sell it at one of the car shows during the summer. Probably the only venture that I truely liked.

johnkimble
06-13-2010, 12:18 AM
lookin very good!

talonXracer
06-14-2010, 06:02 AM
All of the local kids have vanished off the face of the earth, must be they abhore sanding and cleaning as much as I do! LOL

I have almost everything scuffed for the LizardSkin, now to vacuum, wipedown, blow with air, vacuum, tape it off and wipe it down one last time.

brian1414
06-14-2010, 07:58 AM
wow thats alot of work!!!

Kerby
06-14-2010, 04:15 PM
did you have any metal left? wow.
really really nice work my man! that's going to be a new vehicle.

talonXracer
06-14-2010, 06:20 PM
I have been tossing around the idea of getting carpet, the cost will be about the same as the bedliner. I was looking at StockInteriors ultra-plush with heavy backing in med grey.

72chevel
06-14-2010, 07:04 PM
Hey about that Lizardskin: How much weight does that add? 20-30lbs? I what to find out how much you actually use before I order mine. I think that my CRX could use that

talonXracer
06-14-2010, 07:56 PM
The weight will be substantually less than Dynamat. Dont really have weighed it, but their site does say it is lighter.

talonXracer
06-17-2010, 07:22 PM
Started the masking and I will spray the LizardSkin this weekend, crappy weather and a great hate of sanding, has added time onto this debacle.

Forgot to mention that I installed Cf patchs over the two small holes in the rear from the rust and the one boo-boo I created with the hammer and fine chisel up front, oouuch. WindoWeld and Cf patches. I could have simply stitch welded patchs in the rear and front, but I had the WindoWeld out for another small project and I already had the preformed Cf patch material, so I said why not.

SHG_EasyE
06-21-2010, 08:07 PM
Damn man, no offense but that car is in rough shape. Its crazy how much rust there was in that interior. Much praise for taking the time to deal with the problem the right way though, man it looks like a shit ton of work...

talonXracer
06-22-2010, 06:35 AM
That isnt rough shape at all, there was no panel replacement required, I have seen far worse with even newer year car's up here in salt country, but it would have spread and would have became rough shape very quickly! LOL.

The dynamat issue was unfortunate to say the least and a lesson learned for sure!

I had been contemplating selling the EP3(sorta) and glad I didnt, not in that hidden condition!

Yes it is a fair amount of work, more than most would do themselves. But the alternative was living with a rust bucket with a short life. I would hate to see the bill for this work from a shop, especially at the same work standards as I mine.

72chevel
06-22-2010, 04:07 PM
What kind of car are you interested in if you don't mind me asking? I would think with all your knowledge it would be something with a K in it!

SHG_EasyE
06-22-2010, 06:18 PM
Yeah I hear you. It just surprised me because my car has always been a northeast car and as far as I know has seen every winter and not a spot of rust. I guess the hatch leak and occasional moonroof waterfalls are what fueled all that interior rust. Nice to see it all encapsulated though. Im guessing the product youre using is similar to POR15? I recently did all my fender wells and suspension parts in POR to prevent rust from forming and for that fresh look. Its such badass stuff.

Im also interested in trying out that Lizard skin stuff. How much did the bucket you purchased weigh, and how much do you think you will end up using by the end of the project? Just trying to gauge how much weight will be added. I may only want to do my door panels.

Kerby
06-23-2010, 04:39 AM
got any more updated photos you can post up? I'm really liking this thread.

talonXracer
06-23-2010, 07:07 AM
Im guessing the product youre using is similar to POR15? I recently did all my fender wells and suspension parts in POR to prevent rust from forming and for that fresh look. Its such badass stuff.

Im also interested in trying out that Lizard skin stuff. How much did the bucket you purchased weigh, and how much do you think you will end up using by the end of the project? Just trying to gauge how much weight will be added. I may only want to do my door panels.

The POR15 crap fails within 1 hard winter and allows rust to form underneath it. The ChassiSaver I used is an entirely different product that has been proven on many snow removal trucks up here in the north.

The lizardskin comes in 2 gallon buckets and it weighs around 38lbs, I will be using 4 gallons of the sound control and 2 gallons of the ceramic thermal insulation. BUT after the carrier evaporates the weight is significantly less, far less than what Dynamat weighs for the same size area.

02_epdriver
06-29-2010, 07:45 AM
Any updates their Doug?

talonXracer
07-15-2010, 01:25 PM
Update.....

Well the temps and humidity have dropped enough to spray the LizardSkin. Besides I have been up at the mtn lake cabin for a couple weeks during the day due to the heat.

first coat on the cab floor
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior037.jpg

in the back
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior038.jpg

here it is with the two coats of the Sound Control, tomorrow I will spray the LizardSkin Thermal Control, notice the newly sprayed SoundControl is a light blue gray, and drys to a flat medium grey color.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior039.jpg

talonXracer
07-15-2010, 04:05 PM
I also sprayed the backside of the left and right rear plastic. I got the full amount of SoundControl on them and I tried rapping on the plastic and was rather dissapointed with the typical plastic sound. BUT I went out after the SC had dried a couple of hours and tried rapping on the plastic and it made a thud sound instead of the typical plastic thwack sound, I also tried rapping the cab floor and it also had the nice dull thud sound.

02_epdriver
07-16-2010, 12:19 AM
Wow, that looks great!! Brand new touch. Way to go.

talonXracer
07-16-2010, 06:53 AM
Here are the backside of the rear panels
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior042.jpg

The first coat of the Thermal barrier, it is a very lightweight ceramic filled goop.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior040.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior041.jpg

FoReVaPmP
07-16-2010, 07:15 AM
sooooo when are we shipping Marys' Ep to you???......:mangel::msmooch:

Kerby
07-16-2010, 07:22 AM
WOW. i bet this thing can survive a Nuclear winter now!

talonXracer
07-16-2010, 09:47 AM
I was spraying the upper areas today and leaned over and filled the hair with SoundControl, LOL, luckily the stuff cleans up with soap and water!

Also you can really hear a huge difference in the echo when working inside the car, it is no longer present!

02_epdriver
07-16-2010, 11:25 AM
How you going to hear if something brakes or if something goes wrong with the car? "Knock on Wood".

talonXracer
07-16-2010, 01:40 PM
It wont be that soundproof, LOL

There are many indicators of potential failure, sound is just one of them, besides the insulation blocks alot of rattles and vibes, not clunking sounds as the piston finds an optional path to follow out thru the side of the block

talonXracer
07-17-2010, 11:02 AM
Well the interior of the car is completely sprayed now. The sides and roof got 3 coats of SoundControl, and the floor got 2 coats of SoundControl and two coats of the Ceramic Thermal coating. I will put some poly-fill in the void between the inner panel and rear quarter panel. Already the SC has greatly reduced the tone when slapping the quarter panel behind the front doors, it is no longer a bongo drum !
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior043.jpg

Started running the electrical back where it goes, still have to clean the ground points, then coat them with battery terminal.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior044.jpg
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior045.jpg

talonXracer
07-17-2010, 11:50 AM
Here are a few pics that show the progression on the original rust spot.
nasty ! ! !
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1078.jpg
a little better
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior.jpg
looking damn nice!
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior046.jpg

And this could be topcoated with any one of your favorite flavors of paint!

K-Series
07-17-2010, 11:58 AM
Nice work man, very clean! :)

oneglory
07-18-2010, 06:38 AM
Doug, want to help me do mine?

talonXracer
07-18-2010, 07:18 AM
I doubt that anyone could get me to do this again without a rather large amount of gold exchanging hands, unless of course you are a busty red head, LOL (though I already plan on doing the Silverado...)

Alot of the work was repair work, ie blasting and removal of the Dynamat/rust and application of the ChassiSaver. If I was to do it again it would be far quicker(as long as there was limited repair work required). The actual application of the LizardSkin went rather quickly and wouldnt require removal of the old asphalt based deadener. I had helped a buddy do his RSX last fall and it took only two weekends and a few nights during the week.

*****************

Can anyone point me to the DIY for removing the halfway stop on the sunroof, I tried searching and I must be retarded as I cant find the info!

oneglory
07-18-2010, 08:49 AM
my car is a rust free virgin.

Jukka
07-18-2010, 09:19 AM
to disable the sunroof autostop, theres a single 2 wire plug thats located closer to the rear behind the sunroof motor its self on the drivers side of the car, just disconnect the clip and your good. The wire looks like its just plugging into a relay almost.

So, you gonna weigh your car after everythings back in and see how much this stuff added??

HondaFreak
07-18-2010, 11:01 AM
Holy baby Jeebus! I'm not sure I have words. Wow! Your going to have the quietest interior EVAR!

Christian

talonXracer
07-18-2010, 11:02 AM
Thnx

Weighing it wouldnt tell alot as there is no spare, no seats and custom amp racks, but I would venture a guess at only about 5-10 lbs gain over the stock asphalt stuff if that, but significant improvements in sound quality inside the cab, as well as easier to heat and cool.

It was aout 100 degrees in the garage just now(all closed up) and the CeramicThermal coating felt cool, almost cold to the touch.

SHG_EasyE
07-18-2010, 11:09 AM
Looking nice! That coating has a nice even flat finish, looks very HQ!

talonXracer
07-18-2010, 04:47 PM
I suppose next spring she will get the entire underside and firewall coated with the Ceramic LizardSkin followed with a coat of Cosmic Grey Pearl in preparation for the exterior color change.

This evening I broke out the sandblaster and hit the backside of the rest of the plastic panels. The light grey plastic pillar trims really looked tired and dirty, so I blasted the exposed interior surfaces with a extra fine sand at a lower pressure and they cleaned up very nicely without loosing any of the surface texture. I think I will find some darker grey plastic trim paint and tone them down a bit.

talonXracer
09-03-2010, 09:04 AM
The headliner and light grey plastic trim are all now satin black and reinstalled, looks great!

I just picked up the monstaliner floor covering/bed liner and will install it this weekend. And THEN the sidepanels and front seats can go back in.

Passenger
09-03-2010, 09:16 AM
Looks fantastic, Doug

talonXracer
09-11-2010, 11:02 AM
Well there is finally a warm enough day, with the following 24hrs above 55 degrees. I had scuffed up the Lizardskin and wiped down with mek several weeks ago, did another blow out and wipe down.

I mixed up the Monstaliner and started applying it into the corners in a dabbing motion and then rolled out the flat areas. First coat done, second coat in 5 hours.

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior052.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior051.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior050.jpg

I had a rippin buzz after the first coat....forgot the carbon prefilter on my mask...

The second coat gives the distinctive bed liner texture, and it will be 100% UV proof. It will have a satin finish when cured. When the sun directly hits the liner material it DOES NOT get hot.

talonXracer
09-11-2010, 06:56 PM
Here is the Monstaliner second coat with the texture, I really like the way this has turned out!

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior053.jpg

talonXracer
09-13-2010, 01:36 PM
I started to put the plastic trim back in along with the Ebrake etc. I had shut the doors and there was absolutely no echo inside, plus the reduction in outside noise is impressive, and that is without the panels, floor mats and seats! I hit up the two door sill plastic trim pieces with the sandblaster to clean them up of a few years of abuse, the sandblaster really works well on the plastic!

vicx52o
09-13-2010, 02:37 PM
:thumbu:
i'm curious to see how quiet it will be with the interior put back in place.

talonXracer
09-22-2010, 02:00 PM
what it started as,
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_1078.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior004.jpg

And here it is all fixicated,,,
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior055.jpg

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/newinterior053.jpg

I have given the Monstaliner a week to really cure as it has been a little on the cool side, and this stuff is tough! I applied it to a piece of scrap metal and have pounded the crap out of it with a hammer, just a few scuff marks!!!

Lets see, 2-3 coats of chassis saver with a brush, 3 coats of SC, 3 coats of TC, 3 bags of poly-fill and 2 coats of Monstaliner.

I have some overspray that I hope comes off with the buffer, otherwise I will just have to clean it off the best I can and wait until the exterior gets painted to address the overspray.

btf144
10-08-2010, 06:15 PM
any updates? interested in how quieter lizard skin is compared to dynamat

codyep3
04-14-2011, 03:41 PM
bump for future doings

talonXracer
04-14-2011, 05:35 PM
I just procured a spare hood for the summer project. I plan on blocking it out and pulling a mold from it, then I have a bunch of Cf, Rohacell and MSG epoxy and will pop out a aero grade hood.

mitchlikesbikes
04-15-2011, 08:46 PM
I just procured a spare hood for the summer project. I plan on blocking it out and pulling a mold from it, then I have a bunch of Cf, Rohacell and MSG epoxy and will pop out a aero grade hood.

hell yeah!

your interior restoration was inspirational to say the least as well. awesome work

talonXracer
04-16-2011, 05:52 AM
LOL, Yeah I almost purchased a Cf hood for the EP several years ago, but after fondling the hood in person there was no way I was going to pay that kind of money for such a flimsy composite. A proper composite hood should be able to be placed between two saw horses and a 200 lb man stand in the center without any issues what-so-ever!

lldiesel386ll
04-16-2011, 07:49 AM
is there a coming diy thread i sense? :yeahbaby: lol

Lucid Moments
04-16-2011, 08:02 AM
LOL, Yeah I almost purchased a Cf hood for the EP several years ago, but after fondling the hood in person there was no way I was going to pay that kind of money for such a flimsy composite. A proper composite hood should be able to be placed between two saw horses and a 200 lb man stand in the center without any issues what-so-ever!

Overbuild much?:mredface:

Seriously though. Why would you need a hood to be that strong? Do you have people standing on your hood often? If companies built a hood like I really believe you will build a hood they would have to charge so much for it they couldn't sell it. Just not sound business. They build the hoods as strong as they need to be to handle the loads they need to handle.

Most people are doing it for looks anyway.

talonXracer
04-16-2011, 11:15 AM
LOL, I had a Cf hood on the Talon and it flexed and shifted so much I ditched it.

The hood I will make will be no heavier nor thicker than the commercially available ones, the only difference is that I will not use any omniglas mat and I will add a post cure. Oh I am sure the materials I will use are far better grade as they are aero certified, but the aftermarket guys could achieve the same strength as I will with very little additional material costs, only labor and time. BUT it will not have the common failures of the commercially available POS's. 45$ in resin, 20$ in Rohacell and probably 100$ in Carbon.

And you are correct, a part built to these standards are not really commercially viable, but they are no different than what is created for a top end race cars and other exotic cars.

Draw7Seven
08-05-2011, 07:10 PM
Bump because I chased down this AMAZING thread and am considering doing something similar with the Jeep. The question is if all that sound deadening is worth even attempting in an open top vehicle.

talonXracer
08-06-2011, 05:11 AM
Well, I am actually doing a very similar project to what you are planning right now with my Sidekick project!

Adding insulation does have some bennies depending on where it is applied, firewall, trans tunnel etc will help with radiant heat. But the most important item to install is the Monstaliner, it is even more important to get the carpet and asphalt insulation out of a heep just like with the Sidekick. The Monstaliner has insulating qualities, both heat and sound.

Draw7Seven
08-06-2011, 07:56 AM
Yeah the carpet and insulation was gone by the time I got the car, and there's some form of bed liner along the bottom but I'm not sure what variety it is. For now I've got a few other things to work on but this is definitely an area of interest.

dirtyMETHOD
08-09-2011, 02:59 PM
I wanna see this CF hood.

Always great ideas coming from you, keep em coming.

nmysiismyn
08-20-2011, 09:55 PM
Subscribed- as a reminder to read the whole thing!.. I haven't clicked on 'New Posts' in ages.. :mredface:

andrey9
09-06-2011, 05:52 AM
Because I am a retarded, scumbag spammer....

nmysiismyn
09-06-2011, 06:06 AM
since i install reverse camera,i cann't revers my with without cameras,am i become stupid?

SPAM FAIL! :gtfo:

Nitrofaint
09-16-2011, 11:35 PM
Doing what you have done to the interior is definitely amazing.

I really want to tear the ep down after seeing this thread. lol