PDA

View Full Version : 75k mile tune up/maintenance



ryboto
05-26-2010, 01:48 PM
I searched, so I hope there isn't a sticky for this. What do ya'll recommend for 75k mile maintenance? The Honda dealership down the road offers a 75k maintenance special, but it doesn't replace the plugs, nor will they clean my K&N air filter, and it's $400...I don't remember everything they said they do, but a lot of the cost was labor for bleeding the brake lines and refilling them.

chiwhitesi
05-26-2010, 02:00 PM
i did my plugs @100k

so i would say inspect the plugs replace if necessary
serpentine belt
engine oil @ Trans fluid if you haven't done it recently
coolant flush
inspect your suspension bits especially the front compliance bushings
bleed you brake and clutch lines
clean your K&N

thats about all i can think of

EpThreeD
05-26-2010, 06:55 PM
There's probably DIY for every single thing you would want to do in the DIY section or How To section. Just browse through the 10+ pages and pick like your shopping.

ryboto
05-27-2010, 05:44 AM
i did my plugs @100k

so i would say inspect the plugs replace if necessary
serpentine belt
engine oil @ Trans fluid if you haven't done it recently
coolant flush
inspect your suspension bits especially the front compliance bushings
bleed you brake and clutch lines
clean your K&N

thats about all i can think of

I'll go searching through the DIY's, but before I do I'll just ask...how hard is it to flush the coolant/bleed brake and clutch lines? Those are the only things I've never done on my own.

4angrybadgers
05-27-2010, 06:52 AM
The owner's manual has a maintenance schedule...

ryboto
05-27-2010, 07:17 AM
The owner's manual has a maintenance schedule...

And that means I'm not allowed to ask users of the forum for opinions?

ericl244
05-27-2010, 03:17 PM
And that means I'm not allowed to ask users of the forum for opinions?

you asked what the dealership would do, that is your answer. The manual has a schedule and a list of everyhting the dealership would do, no where did he say anyhting about forbidding you to ask the opinion of members to this forum.

MBaG
05-27-2010, 03:22 PM
you asked what the dealership would do, that is your answer. The manual has a schedule and a list of everyhting the dealership would do, no where did he say anyhting about forbidding you to ask the opinion of members to this forum.

he actually asked, "What do ya'll recommend for 75k mile maintenance?" & "how hard is it to flush the coolant/bleed brake and clutch lines?" no questions about what the dealer would do. but w/e.

BTW, i believe our stock spark plugs are good up to 110k miles.

4angrybadgers
05-28-2010, 05:29 AM
And that means I'm not allowed to ask users of the forum for opinions?

Well pardon me for trying to make your life easier.

If you want opinions, sure, ask. You'll get fifty different opinions as to what should be done - some good, some bad. Good luck sifting through it all.

If you want recommended maintenance, use the manufacturer's schedule listed in the manual as a starting point. While some of it may not be necessary (3k mile oil changes, for example) it's a better recommendation for required maintenance than what Joe Blow USA says.

mugen03
05-28-2010, 05:48 AM
The owner's manual has a maintenance schedule...

I would say a good chunk of of people did not get the manual when they bought their car being as they have bought it used. I did not get a manual when I bought my ep.

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?54914-Manual-PDF&highlight=manual

ryboto
06-03-2010, 05:07 AM
Thanks for the replies, I'll consult the manual, but I was just curious what some of you had done for your 75k mile maintenance, just to get an idea. The book goes by 10k intervals, it only seems to list for 70k and 80k. Regardless, my check engine light just came on, and now the car wont go above 4k rpm. That's going to be a first priority.

drjd888
06-03-2010, 10:20 PM
Thanks for the replies, I'll consult the manual, but I was just curious what some of you had done for your 75k mile maintenance, just to get an idea. The book goes by 10k intervals, it only seems to list for 70k and 80k. Regardless, my check engine light just came on, and now the car wont go above 4k rpm. That's going to be a first priority.

When was the last time you checked or even changed your oil? Your car is in limp mode. I would suggest learning about normal maintenance not just "bigger" ones.

ryboto
06-09-2010, 12:00 PM
When was the last time you checked or even changed your oil? Your car is in limp mode. I would suggest learning about normal maintenance not just "bigger" ones.

I change it every 5-6k. The oil level was fine, nevertheless, I added what was left from the previous oil change, and the check engine light shut off. I would suggest you not make assumptions about people, might rub someone the wrong way.

EP3driver
06-24-2010, 07:22 PM
I need to replace my serpentine belt, anyone has the Goodyear gatorback P/N for the EP?

relativelyprime
06-25-2010, 01:24 PM
To possibly answer the original question...I just did a brake, clutch, oil, coolant change and valve adjustment at 80K. Oh, and the camshaft that shouldn't be part of normal maintenance, but who knows...they are all easy to do by yourself.

Brake/clutch: Find the bleed valves (easy to find on brakes...should have a rubber piece over the end to keep dirt out). The clutch bleed valve is on the front of the engine. Gonna need ramps or jackstands to come at it from the bottom. 8mm wrench I believe. Total pain to get to but once you get a hand up there easy job. Buy some tubing for brakes and clutch (a couple feet) and attach to the end of the bleeder. Buy a turkey baster and suck the old fluid out of both reservoirs. Fill them up with clean fluid. Crack the bleeder, watch nasty fluid drain down clear tube into some type of container. Watch fluid drain until it is clear. BE SURE NOT TO LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY! KEEP IT TOPPED OFF! Otherwise you get air in the lines and it's a pain. The method I'm describing is called the "gravity method". Simple, just take an hour or two for 4 wheels and a clutch. Cheap and easy though. Once the fluid is clear close the valve, put rubber cover over the bleeder, top off fluid in reservoir, put cap on, move to brakes repeat the process. With the brakes you need to start at a specific wheel (can't remember which one) and go in a specific order. Should be on this site somewhere.

There's a valve adjustment DIY on here. There was probably a brake and clutch one too but w/e.

Coolant: (I was actually searching for this today and then realized it's in the owner's manual...nice when Honda tells you how to DIY in the book that comes with the car!) Some argue for or against flushing the engine with a garden hose. I change mine more often than recommended so I figure it's not worth the possibility of having deposits from from the little water left with a garden hose. Strangely enough, on the back of the Honda antifreeze jugs it says to flush it (I think it did anyway). I was told by a couple of mechanics Honda isn't big on flushing the system...more or less a drain and refill. When I drained my coolant today it was a DARK green. I put in the blue type II Honda coolant. Many things I've read say it's fine to mix the old green Honda coolant with the new blue. I guess I'll find out. However, if you're at all unsure, CALL AND CHECK WITH SOMEONE IN YOUR CITY OR HONDA!!! However, after filling up containers with my old coolant it was about 1.5 gallons and our capacity according to what I've read is 1.4 gallons. So I figure it probably won't do too much to have them mixed. I'm sure someone will jump on me if I screwed up! Please do, I'd like to know for future reference.

Also, it says to let your car run until the fan comes on for the coolant change. My fan almost never runs so I just let it run for 15 minutes and heat up all the way. The only time it runs is stop and go traffic when it's above 85 and I'm running A/C. Otherwise it MIGHT run but most likely not.