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Kerby
06-18-2010, 07:37 AM
parts just came in today :mbiggrin::mbiggrin::mbiggrin:

This topic has been been beaten like a dead horse, but to recap: apparently certain parts in the 05-06 RSX-S are exactly the parts that are used in the DC5-R.

FedEx guy just dropped all the parts today. WEEEE!:mwink:

what they are:
DC5 ITR Aluminum Floor bar
DC5 ITR Rear Strut Brace
06 RSX-S LR and RR Strut Gusset
06 RSX-S Front Subframe Brace

I'll post pics once I'm done

talonXracer
06-18-2010, 07:42 AM
Post pics of the parts not installed. Wouldnt hurt to throw up some part numbers as well.

usedep3
06-18-2010, 07:55 AM
nice! i installed the front subframe brace recently. i felt more of an improvement compared to adding a front strut tower bar.

GL with that Aluminum Floor Brace. it's a bitch and a half.

Kerby
06-18-2010, 08:23 AM
The B-pillar floor bar is already installed. But I'm to uninstall it later and take pics so you guys can see the difference and the mounting points.
I had to basically gut the whole hatch area to get to the OEM one. What a PITA!

Kerby
06-19-2010, 09:38 AM
Okay... lets get this show on the road.:mwink:

I have only done the rear strut bracing. We having a freakin heat wave in the Northeast and it just got to hot. Even though I was in the garage... the call of a ice cold Corona Extra in one hand, the TV remote on the other, and my balls dangling in front of a fan were just calling into the house.

Gussets:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0875.jpg

The unique and rather interesting characteristic of the gusset design is that it is not only the means by which both struts are joined, but also that it is bolted to the chassis. The gussets are bolted on at (3) points.

The gussets are thicker than (2) quarters. Pretty thick stuff.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0877.jpg

Their size is bigger than a DVD box
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0876.jpg

And yes, once I'm done posting this... i am going to watch EP3 of Star Wars:tehehyper:.

Honda was even thinking made these gussets idiot proof. On the back they have kindly stamped the side where they are installed.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0882.jpg

The means as to which the gussets are connected are by a hollow bar. The thickness of the bar is approximatly the size of a US$ quarter. Each end of the bar has two holes. The outer hole is where the bolt is placed to attach it to the gusset, and the second hole is used as support.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0882.jpg

When you order this part, you will need to purchase (2) new bolts. Don't worry, i have supplied below the needed part number.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0879.jpg

Notice the top knotch welding work on the threaded part
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0881.jpg

Now to the installation: Its pretty self explanatory... if Project Yellow can do it... anybody can do it.:mwink: j/k you know i love you.:mangel:

Use a 14mm socket to remove the bolt on the strut
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0884.jpg

Now, the bolt facing the rear of the hatch will be easy to get too. The other is hiding behind another gusset where the rear back seat is. To get to it, I just removed the (3) or (4) 10mm bolts.

Before you install, you will have to remove the two wire holders on either side of the hatch.

Remember in the beginning I talked about how these gussets have (3) bolting points? The strut has (2), the other when you install it will be easy to find. It might be different in your case, but in mine i didnt have the bolt for the (3) location. Because i am going the gutted look, i've already removed my rear seats, so I just took a bolt of the support and used it. Fit perfectly.
[insert location of bolt I used]

Last piece to install is the bar. Should look like this:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0886.jpg
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0891.jpg

Tighten everything down. Don't forget to install back the gussets you removed to get access to the strut bolt. Finally it should look like this:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0895.jpg

Put the carpet back in, and gave at your final product: [/b]DC5R rear stut bar assembly[/b]
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0901.jpg

Parts required: (I purchased the RSX parts from Carland Acura. Cheapest place I found.

74671-S6M-J00 - Right Rear Gusset - 05-06 RSX-S $16.71
74672-S6M-J00 - Left Rear Gusset - 05-06 RSX-S $16.71
95701-08012-08 - Bolt, Flange : you’ll need (2) $1.30 for both

From JDMland.com:
JDM DC5 Type R rear strut bar $89.99
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1408381693991_2108_45893372

powdbyrice
06-19-2010, 05:25 PM
Nice!

I think corsport needs to make a type-r strut bar for less than 90 bux... ;-)

SHG_EasyE
06-20-2010, 10:53 AM
Awesome, awesome write up dude, cant wait to see the rest! I plan on getting the rear bar aswell, but Im going to weld around the joints from the bar to the gussets for extra rigidity :)

You could have gotten that rear bar at a fraction of the cost though....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-INTEGRA-RSX-REAR-STRUT-BAR-TYPE-R-FLOOR-BAR-DC5-K20-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d28685574QQitemZ40010 9884788QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_3719wt_732

LLH
06-20-2010, 11:01 AM
pics dont work :(

Hasbro
06-20-2010, 11:09 AM
Awesome, awesome write up dude, cant wait to see the rest! I plan on getting the rear bar aswell, but Im going to weld around the joints from the bar to the gussets for extra rigidity :)

You could have gotten that rear bar at a fraction of the cost though....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-INTEGRA-RSX-REAR-STRUT-BAR-TYPE-R-FLOOR-BAR-DC5-K20-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d28685574QQitemZ40010 9884788QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries#ht_3719wt_732

That's where I bought mine.
Nice info, Kirby.
More reading:http://forums.clubep3.com/showthread.php?t=676396

johnkimble
06-20-2010, 12:18 PM
wow great write up. how's it feel? that's a ton of work for a bar install. cheap price makes it super appealing though

Kerby
06-20-2010, 06:06 PM
Im going to weld around the joints from the bar to the gussets for extra rigidity :)
You could have gotten that rear bar at a fraction of the cost though....

tell me how that goes. After do you weld up yours, mind hooking me up? I'll throw you some beans for helping.
As for the bar, i was thinking about buying it from there... but I don't trust ebay. I've heard too many bad experiences. So i went with the tried and true. i knew if I bought from ICB i was going to get it.

Some people are using liquid nails or something of that nature... kind too messy for my taste. Plus i'm always thinking ahead, and if i decided to remove it, it would be a PITA.



More reading:http://forums.clubep3.com/showthread.php?t=676396

That's where I got the idea, but there wasn't a step by step or a good explanation on how to install it. I thought it would help out the ephatchers by doing a How-to, and explaining why the parts should be installed..


how's it feel?
With the c-pillar, b-pillar floor bar, and the HFP suspension it feels really good. You really feel it in the turns.
plus the OEM-ness of it doesn't make it look cheap or cheesey... it looks like it belongs on the car.

makavelibranded
07-24-2010, 11:03 PM
Ill be doing this tommarow as well as the ctr rear sway and itr front subframe brace, hopefully since every single time I work on my car shit goes wrong lol. Currently stuck removing the rear seats, pretty sure I need to remove the 2 bolt underneath that plastic cover at the base were the seats fold and im done with that step, but idk theres no more write up for removing the rears anymore so im shooting in the dark.

ep_hatcher_510
07-24-2010, 11:58 PM
im doing this, cheap and oem, yay!

Tougeep3
07-25-2010, 07:08 AM
Gussets:
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/interior%20cabin%20lights/IMG_0875.jpg

The unique and rather interesting characteristic of the gusset design is that it is not only the means by which both struts are joined, but also that it is bolted to the chassis. The gussets are bolted on at (3) points.

In the DC5-R the tabs at the back bolt to the wheelwell, so actually with some spacers you'd have it attached at 5 points..

makavelibranded
07-26-2010, 01:45 PM
if this 1st image is BIG then youll have to clear your cookies I resized it on photobucket after I posted sorry.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j164/makavelibranded4/009.jpg


only problem is the itr rear sway kinda touches the on the left side

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j164/makavelibranded4/006.jpg

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j164/makavelibranded4/007.jpg

Havint tryed it out yet I had to drive home with everything im my hatch bouncing around. Took me 9 hours to remove the rear seats, and exchange the rearsway, floorbrace, front sub brace and throw in the new rear strut tower brace. That front brace was a bitch,.. maby without a turbo sitting on top of it it would have been more easy. Also the rear strut tower bolts were previously over torqued so i bolted the gaussets on top of the other bolts. After I finished last night my battery took a dump from the lights being on and had to wait till morning to get a new one cause it wouldint jump. :msmile:

Zzyzx
07-26-2010, 02:11 PM
your anti-roll bar is on upside down. the bends at the end are suppose to go Up and over the rear control arms, not bend down towards them.

Heitzke
07-26-2010, 02:46 PM
your anti-roll bar is on upside down. the bends at the end are suppose to go Up and over the rear control arms, not bend down towards them.

Beat me to it.

Twisted-X
07-26-2010, 02:50 PM
Just curious, sans the turbo what all is involved in upgrading the front lower brace?

johnkimble
07-26-2010, 03:16 PM
Zzyzx back in the house!

BeaterEP
07-26-2010, 08:39 PM
Installed my rear gussets, sans bar, a while back, and I was surprised how much of a difference just installing the gussets made. Still haven't been able to throw down for the rear bar, front frame brace, but someday :mcool:

makavelibranded
07-26-2010, 09:22 PM
your anti-roll bar is on upside down. the bends at the end are suppose to go Up and over the rear control arms, not bend down towards them.

Thank you I figured thats what I did after reading,.. didint pay attention to it when it fell off the back I was just stoked the bolts broke free lol.


Fixed the rear sway, funny how much better it fits back there, anywho took it for a test behind the sadium here and boy does this car feel amazing

makavelibranded
07-26-2010, 09:35 PM
Just curious, sans the turbo what all is involved in upgrading the front lower brace?

All it is, is 2 12mm bolts on either side of the bar and 2 10mm bolts underneither mounted to the heatsheild, to get to them I put the front on jackstands and reached through the wheelwell and unbolted those top bolts then from underneath the car I got the 2 others, because there in a weird spot underthere I had to use a wrench for 1 of them. To pull it out I had to pull it though the wheel well(and it caught on everything) but you may be able to pull it staright up through the engine bay.

thaseint
07-27-2010, 06:42 AM
Did the DC5-R rear strut bar modification a while back. Trimmed the rear panels and spare tire cover to fit the bar...works perfectly with minimal trimming. Would never know it's there. :mbiggrin:

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/thaseint/DSC01416.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/thaseint/DSC01415.jpg

http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w15/thaseint/DSC01414.jpg

jamesandrew58
07-30-2010, 10:55 PM
subscribed

15000rpms
08-05-2010, 04:19 PM
i bought a ebay front strut bar, and I was had a thought that the distance in the front should be the same or close to the rear. So I went to fit in the brackets, and the holes line up. It's just that that brace is blocking it. I think this weekend I will take those brace off and try to fit it on.

This is not thread jacking. Just adding on to the rear strut thingy. Does your car understeer more or oversteer more with this mod? What do you think about replicating the rear brace idea and brace other holes as well?

Kerby
08-06-2010, 08:30 AM
Does your car understeer more or oversteer more with this mod?

Car isn't as fidigy in the turns. The front brace really helps with steering inputs.
I use to be tail happy... now it just squats and carves.
I think what would make this mod even killer and compliment really well is to replace the OEM compliance bushings with solid/harder ones.

makavelibranded
08-16-2010, 10:43 AM
Think my rear sway bar is working :tehehyper:

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j164/makavelibranded4/420.jpg

02ES1
09-08-2010, 11:35 AM
NVM found it. http://www.icbmotorsport.com/dcalfrlocoar.html $90 though wow!


I'm seriously thinking of buying this for my car. 1 question, where did the bar that connects the gussets come from? Is it part of the gusset package?

ImportCustomx
09-08-2010, 01:20 PM
Nice mod, i like it.

Kerby
09-08-2010, 02:39 PM
same place where you found the ITR swaybar.
Some peeps have found a cheaper place that sells the bar on flea-bay.
i purchased mine from icb.

Hasbro
09-08-2010, 09:19 PM
Look around. I found the bar and gussets on E Bay for $40.00 !

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JDM-INTEGRA-RSX-REAR-STRUT-BAR-TYPE-R-FLOOR-BAR-DC5-K20-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c1108d8a6QQitemZ12054 4876710QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

02ES1
09-09-2010, 09:35 AM
That listing has ended and when I contacted them 2 days ago they said: "Dear xxxx, nothing right now thanks for checking - prodejayautosales" Since that was a used part anyways, who knows when is the next time they'll get it in.

SLOW EP3
09-09-2010, 11:29 AM
That eBay listing doesn't have the right gussets, anyway. It only shows 2 mounting points, the OEM brace has 5 mounting points. Sometimes it's better to just buy it new from the dealer.

02ES1
09-09-2010, 06:48 PM
I wasn't going to point that out cus I thought I was being anal retentive, but I'm glad I'm not the only one that noticed. They're probably made of really thin aluminum siding lol.

Hasbro
09-09-2010, 09:18 PM
That eBay listing doesn't have the right gussets, anyway. It only shows 2 mounting points, the OEM brace has 5 mounting points. Sometimes it's better to just buy it new from the dealer.

You mean the holes that aren't used? And they are plenty thick and solid. For a savings of over $100 I can sleep at night.

cody_sir
09-16-2010, 08:28 PM
is it a direct fit on for the ep3

02ES1
09-17-2010, 01:26 PM
Read the thread more carefully, yes.

02TWSI
04-05-2011, 09:48 PM
EPIC, are you going to do the front brace too? And the seat brace?

RedSiBaron
04-06-2011, 03:23 AM
Thanks for bumping this...ya adrian you are slacking, we are missing the rest of our info!!

Kerby
04-08-2011, 11:37 AM
woops.

i guess i should state that both interior aluminum underseat bar and sub-frame bar are installed. Installation was very simple.
I'll be posting up pictures tonight.

The subframe bar fitment is flawless. Even the header heatshield attaches correctly.
The DC5R underseat bar is somewhat okay. The pictures will explain it better than me typing it.

02TWSI
04-08-2011, 01:43 PM
woops.

i guess i should state that both interior aluminum underseat bar and sub-frame bar are installed. Installation was very simple.
I'll be posting up pictures tonight.

The subframe bar fitment is flawless. Even the header heatshield attaches correctly.
The DC5R underseat bar is somewhat okay. The pictures will explain it better than me typing it.

awesome!

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-08-2011, 03:14 PM
if you don't mind me asking...
how does the rear strut tower dc5-r bar compare to say an aftermarket bar?

makavelibranded
04-08-2011, 03:59 PM
its the same thing, except the typer is a 3 peice, it may be sturdier though

usedep3
04-08-2011, 04:29 PM
if you don't mind me asking...
how does the rear strut tower dc5-r bar compare to say an aftermarket bar?

the itr rear strut tower brace is popular bc its an oem piece. there are several rear strut bars that have the same/similar mounting points. the cusco, mr alex, j's racing rear strut bar just to name a few

Kerby
04-08-2011, 06:32 PM
as promised here is the rear DC5R rear underseat bar. Sorry guys for forgetting about this.

The DC5R aluminum bar is a really nice piece. The welds are good.
The four mounting points that are right below the seat line up perfectly. You simply unbolt the old one and use the same bolts. Don’t worry about purchasing new bolts, the thickness of the aluminum bar will not impact the amount of threads available. http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/Carpet%20install/IMG_2054.jpg These bolts in my opinion are really the only important ones.

So basically all the bolts line up. The only bastard ones are these http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/Carpet%20install/IMG_2057.jpg
The other side (driver) is the mirror image of this photo. So in total (2) bolts do not line up.
Here’s a side view shot.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/Carpet%20install/IMG_2055.jpg

I’ve been thinking about hammering out my frustrations on those tabs and move them in, then using a cylindrical spacer. The gap is about a finger width. http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj309/KerbyEP3/Carpet%20install/IMG_2058.jpg

I’ll try to take pictures tomorrow of the subframe bar. If not, then maybe Sunday. I’m in the lookout for dry-ice right now. My other post kinda explains why...

My interior is going to stay apart for a while... I'm thinking it might be for the next month or so. It's apart, so i might as well do as much as I can now.

While taking the plastic pieces off i can't believe how much wear they experienced in the last 6years so i'm debating on whether to order new OEM pieces or not. Expensive yes, but the car isn't going to be driven as much anymore anyway, so I'm sure now with these new items I'm really gonna be anal about the interior.

If you guys need a comparison between the stock OEM bar and the DC5R, let me know. i think I still have the EP3 bar in the basement. The EP3 bar is almost stamped. They basically took steel square hollow stock and stitch welded end plates. Really cheap and lazy piece if you ask me. The DC5R looks engineered and from what I've been told, each were hand made. Its CONSIDERABLY thicker.

codyep3
05-31-2011, 01:12 PM
bump for diy

codyep3
06-02-2011, 10:16 PM
just put it in, was extremely easy. Probably 20 minutes max. The thing people should know is that you don't have to take off that gusset, you can just use an extension on your 14mm ratchet.