Engine diagnostics Help please!!

[sleep3]

So i bought my EP3 a couple months ago, with an A2 swap, it has dyno sheets for 210 whp, but it was incredibly slow, running rich and obviously messed up. So heres all of my symptoms:

Check engine code of "running lean" (but Hondata showed that it was not)
Flickering Oil light at low RPMs (900 and under)
when the motor hit vtec at full throttle it ran incredibly rich (10-11 ish A/F)


Then.. I spun a bearing. Damaging the crank, rod, and bearing.

So Ive collected all my parts for the rebuild.

Re machined crank
ne rods and bolts with under 5k
new bearings to fit the new crank measurements
head gasket
rings

Questions:

Will the new bottom end solve my problems?
Should I get a new oil pump right away as well?
Can i check to see if my oil pump is good?

Thanks!

[sleepy_ep]

Have your oil pressure switch checked out for that oil light flickering, a bad switch causes issues sometimes.

[sleep3]

How do you check that?

Nobody else knows anything about any of these issues?

[sleep3]

Does anyone know anything about motors here? Seriouslyy

[jed_averill]

Ofcourse they do. Just wait. I'm a noob so I'm waiting for replies so I can learn too.

[HondaFreak]

Will a new bottom end fix your oil pressure issue? More than likely NOT. There are no oil squirters on an a2 as i recall.

Edit:
To do an oil pressure switch test.

1 Remove yel/red wire (a) from the engine oil pressure switch (b).
2 check for continuity between the positive terminal (c) and the engine ground. There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running.
3 if the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is ok, replace the oil pressure switch.

Do you want the oil pressure test too?

Christian

[kenscivic]

Will a new bottom end fix your oil pressure issue? More than likely NOT. There are no oil squirters on an a2 as i recall.

Edit:
To do an oil pressure switch test.

1 Remove yel/red wire (a) from the engine oil pressure switch (b).
2 check for continuity between the positive terminal (c) and the engine ground. There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running.
3 if the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is ok, replace the oil pressure switch.

Do you want the oil pressure test too?

Christian


The a2 does have oil squirters... Hence why people building motors tend to lean towards the a3 block so they don't have to fool around with them. It sounds like your oil pump is going out or your oil pickup got clogged up.. Def. change both of those with the bottom end build

BUT REMEMBER!!!! Take your parts to a machine shop, get them to just make sure they are good and balanced properly..

Spinning bearings sucks ass but fix it right the first time.

*edit*

also if he spun a bearing it does not really matter if his sensor is bad. There is a mechanical failure somewhere causing oil pressure to be toooo low.. My car did the same thing and it was b/c the pickup fell off (GM mind you so not the best made)

[HondaFreak]

The a2 does have oil squirters... Hence why people building motors tend to lean towards the a3 block so they don't have to fool around with them. It sounds like your oil pump is going out or your oil pickup got clogged up.. Def. change both of those with the bottom end build

BUT REMEMBER!!!! Take your parts to a machine shop, get them to just make sure they are good and balanced properly..

Spinning bearings sucks ass but fix it right the first time.

*edit*

also if he spun a bearing it does not really matter if his sensor is bad. There is a mechanical failure somewhere causing oil pressure to be toooo low.. My car did the same thing and it was b/c the pickup fell off (GM mind you so not the best made)

Your right there are squirters. However, low oil pressure is not just a spun bearing related. There are several strainers and switches that can get clogged or go bad. There IS a relationship between a bearing and oil pressure. Even if the OP fixes the one spun bearing there is still a chance a sensor or other bearing is bad or clogged.
1) Check the oil screen for clogging.
2) Test the oil pump.
3) Check the relief valve.
4) Test the oil pressure switch.
5) Check for excessive clearance in the engine (bearing to journal, etc)
6) Check oil for dirt or improper viscosity.

I also agree the whole bottom end needs to be balance checked. However, that may not solve the issue. Hence looking at the easy stuff first.

Christian

[kenscivic]

Your right there are squirters. However, low oil pressure is not just a spun bearing related. There are several strainers and switches that can get clogged or go bad. There IS a relationship between a bearing and oil pressure. Even if the OP fixes the one spun bearing there is still a chance a sensor or other bearing is bad or clogged.
1) Check the oil screen for clogging.
2) Test the oil pump.
3) Check the relief valve.
4) Test the oil pressure switch.
5) Check for excessive clearance in the engine (bearing to journal, etc)
6) Check oil for dirt or improper viscosity.

I also agree the whole bottom end needs to be balance checked. However, that may not solve the issue. Hence looking at the easy stuff first.

Christian


You said the same thing I just said (Minus the 3, 4) I never said spun bearings cause low oil pressure. I was just stating it is most likely a mechanical failure somewhere in something that delivers the oil around the block.

We are in agreement I am not sure if I read your post wrong if I did I apologize but it appears you are making an argument against my post..


But yes getting the balance checked will not cure the oil pressure issue but it does suck having a not balanced assembly.. Everything vibrates to high hell.. Think of motor mount inserts times 100

[sleep3]

Will a new bottom end fix your oil pressure issue? More than likely NOT. There are no oil squirters on an a2 as i recall.

Edit:
To do an oil pressure switch test.

1 Remove yel/red wire (a) from the engine oil pressure switch (b).
2 check for continuity between the positive terminal (c) and the engine ground. There should be continuity with the engine stopped. There should be no continuity with the engine running.
3 if the switch fails to operate, check the engine oil level. If the engine oil level is ok, replace the oil pressure switch.

Christian

This is not possible to do with the motor out obviously.. So results will have to wait until she's back in. Which should be by tomorrow or the day after.

Now theres one huge thing i forgot to update. I bought a whole new bottom end that has never been opened w/ about 60 k's on it.

So pretty much im putting all my parts onto a new complete block as apposed to rebuilding my old one.

[kenscivic]

This is not possible to do with the motor out obviously.. So results will have to wait until she's back in. Which should be by tomorrow or the day after.

Now theres one huge thing i forgot to update. I bought a whole new bottom end that has never been opened w/ about 60 k's on it.

So pretty much im putting all my parts onto a new complete block as apposed to rebuilding my old one.

You should still take the block to a machine shop to get them to check it out... I would rather pay 200$ for peace of mind than risk it.. Theres a recent thread on here where somebody risked it and is paying big bucks now.

[sleep3]

Too late. Shes all together now. Took her for a drive down the highway and WOW its like night and day. SO much more power than before. She just went into a shop this morning for a few small things, it needs a new 02 sensor and I was having trouble bleeding the brakes. After that she should be good to go.

[sleepy_ep]

So did the new block fix the oil pressure flicker?

[sleep3]

No.. Still does it. I also found out along to the way that i have an aftermarket Golden Eagle oil sandwich/oil sensor.. It has two wires coming out of it and a 3rd from the harness that is a ground.

Other than that the car is running great, w/ no other check engine codes.