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View Full Version : Are rod bearings suppose to look like this?



Deadphishy
09-16-2010, 09:44 AM
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k71/deadphishy/SV100957.jpg

http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k71/deadphishy/SV100954.jpg



I suppose not eh?


So as you can see, i got the motor out of my car yesterday. Turns out i spun the rod bearing on number 4. I havn't really taken to much of the motor apart yet, but from what i can see the pistons are actually in decent shape.......time will tell.

As some of you might have read, I am putting a k20a3/a2 combo motor into my car for the time being. I'll keep everyone updated.

A3 block/crank/rods
a2 pistons, oil Pump, Head,
BC stage 2 cams.
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k71/deadphishy/SV100953.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k71/deadphishy/SV100951.jpg
http://i85.photobucket.com/albums/k71/deadphishy/SV100950.jpg

kenscivic
09-16-2010, 10:05 AM
that makes it a race bearing!!

How bad are those horizontal groves on the cylinder wall? DId it damage the rod at all?

jri93
09-16-2010, 10:20 AM
haha... those horizontal groves are the crosshatching, there supposed to be there, in fact thats a good sign those cylinders look in good condition.

kenscivic
09-16-2010, 10:35 AM
haha... those horizontal groves are the crosshatching, there supposed to be there, in fact thats a good sign those cylinders look in good condition.

I have never seen crosshatchings look like that. When they did my block it was not as "defined" I guess you could say... They just looked a little deeper than simple crosshatchings.

I guess it could just be due to the flash on his camera

Deadphishy
09-16-2010, 11:44 AM
haha, You are both right..

Sorry i should have been more clean. The short block is the motor going into the car, not the one with the spun bearing.

The crosshatch was a "self" deglazing that i did. the drill spun up to fast and the lines are not as "crossed" as i would like. However they are not deep at all. I used a finish stone with heavy oil.

The motor still had the deep grooves for Oil, i just needed to take the smooth finish off so the rings would seat again.

kenscivic
09-16-2010, 12:02 PM
haha, You are both right..

Sorry i should have been more clean. The short block is the motor going into the car, not the one with the spun bearing.

The crosshatch was a "self" deglazing that i did. the drill spun up to fast and the lines are not as "crossed" as i would like. However they are not deep at all. I used a finish stone with heavy oil.

The motor still had the deep grooves for Oil, i just needed to take the smooth finish off so the rings would seat again.


ahh gotcha... Hey off topic but me and my wife will be heading upto detroit here in a month, you seem like an educated non tard. You want to meet up for a beer with me n my wife and probably musashi

Deadphishy
09-16-2010, 12:20 PM
ahh gotcha... Hey off topic but me and my wife will be heading upto detroit here in a month, you seem like an educated non tard. You want to meet up for a beer with me n my wife and probably musashi

For sure! I havn't seen James in a while. If he has his way we will be going to Cafe Sushi. Great Food!

Where in the Detroit area will you be?

kenscivic
09-16-2010, 12:34 PM
For sure! I havn't seen James in a while. If he has his way we will be going to Cafe Sushi. Great Food!

Where in the Detroit area will you be?



We will probably be staying with james. So wherever his new house is.

bchaney
09-17-2010, 04:15 AM
You checked bearing clearance w plastigage?

Did you figure out why this happened?

Changing anything when you rebuild the k24?

Deadphishy
09-17-2010, 01:14 PM
You checked bearing clearance w plastigage?

Did you figure out why this happened?

Changing anything when you rebuild the k24?

AS far as the k24, I had a shop put it together and mic the bearings for me. We ended up using ACL Race bearings. Their are a few things that i would guess caused it.
I had an Oil problem a little while ago. Oil lamp turned on I killed the car coasted to a stop, check the oil level it was full. let the car "rest" restarted and it went away.

another time i was merging onto the freeway and i put my foot down, motor went up to 7.8K but let out a big puff of smoke going into Vtec.

More then likely above all of that. It could have been the tune. Part throttle was really agressive and a little lean. 15.5:1 bearings could have taken a beating for too long.

PS. I hate cleaning metal out of eveything. it's taking forever. The head took a few hours of spraying/ cleaning before i declared it free of iron. Thanks to a small powerful magnet...



As far as rebuilding the k24. My CP pistons actually look really good. the Sideskirt coating really helped out. I'm going to get them re-coated, Might even have them build up the sides with a little extra. I spec'ed this motor for NO2 but never used it. So new closer gapped rings, and tighter fitting skirts.

This is of course is the walls are ok. they have some age on them. I might want to bore over. In that case i'll try to get some crazy 13.5:1 pistons or something dumb.

bchaney
09-19-2010, 05:36 PM
Sounds like low oil pressure. I think that's why the oil light will go on - it's not because of low oil level its low oil pressure. That would explain the vtec problem too since that runs off of oil.

Did you replace the pump when you built the motor?

I've also heard that the ACL bearings are kindof a "one size fits all" deal. idk how that works since all rods/cranks are slightly different sizes. That's why I stuck to OEM bearings. Maybe something to think about.

Deadphishy
09-20-2010, 12:26 PM
Yup, i understand the Oil lamp is a low pressure guage.
I think it was more of a Bearing problem, since i did use ACL Race bearings which are like you said. "one size fits all" The race bearings tend to leave a larger gap for more oil. However they don't last as long. Just like everything else that has the term "Race".
Accord to the rods, it looks like i might have had my ignition timing to advanced, and the bearings took a little bit of a beating.

The Oil pressure light did come on about 50 miles after an oil change. Might have had a bubble or something.
Vtec always worked just fine.

It was a brand new k20a2 oil pump, with the k24 balance shaft Oil jet plugged.



Sounds like low oil pressure. I think that's why the oil light will go on - it's not because of low oil level its low oil pressure. That would explain the vtec problem too since that runs off of oil.

Did you replace the pump when you built the motor?

I've also heard that the ACL bearings are kindof a "one size fits all" deal. idk how that works since all rods/cranks are slightly different sizes. That's why I stuck to OEM bearings. Maybe something to think about.