RSX type s 5 Lug Brake Conversion Master Cylander Question.......

[56chevydan]

I did the 5 lug RSX type s brake conversion on my '03 earlier this year. The brakes work fine but I did not change the master cylander or the proportioning valve when I did the conversion.

The type s master cylander bore is slightly larger than the EP3 (1/16" I think), and the proportioning valve I'm not sure if it's the same. I'm considering finding a low mileage '02-'04 RSX-s master cylander and proportioning valve and making the swap in hopes of increasing the stopping power of my brake swap.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? Does anyone know if all years of the RSX-s brake master cylanders, reservoirs and proportioning valves are interchangable with the EP3?

[SHG_EasyE]

You wont be increasing stopping power, you will just have a bit of a shorter pedal throw before you reach a hard pedal. I also did the type s front brakes and left the stock master and prop valve. I track my car as well as daily it and I havent felt any need to switch to Type S units.

[56chevydan]

Anyone else have any thoughts on this? Honda wouldn't have put a larger bore master cylander on the RSX-s cars just to do it. There must be a reason to develope and install a larger bore master cylander on the type s cars which have the larger front brakes.

[27rocks]

You are way over thinking this. It's not a big problem or in fact a problem at all. Like Easy said they just simply used a bigger cylinder to compensate for the pedal feel and nothing more. You will be fine without it i promise lol.

[56chevydan]

You are way over thinking this. It's not a big problem or in fact a problem at all. Like Easy said they just simply used a bigger cylinder to compensate for the pedal feel and nothing more. You will be fine without it i promise lol.
27rocks thanks for the promise.......I'm going to hold you to it.........LOL.........
As far as over thinking it, it's just a question I'm posing on the forum. If there is any possibility the replacement of my master cylander and/or proportioning valve could help the clamping force of the calipers, it would be an inexpensive fix.
I was really hoping to get feedback from someone that may have done the basic type s brake conversion and had a feel for it before adding the m/c and valve and had a before and after comparison.

[RHCP0801]

i also did this setup without changing the master or prop valve, all i did was do stainless lines all around and that made the biggest difference for me but i have an 04 so i only had to change the fronts

[56chevydan]

i also did this setup without changing the master or prop valve, all i did was do stainless lines all around and that made the biggest difference for me but i have an 04 so i only had to change the fronts
It's good to know the stainless brake lines made some what of a differance. I've been considering for a while of changing my brake lines to stainless.
Just out of curiousity, what brand did you use and where did you buy them?

[RHCP0801]

i got mine from speedstar racing

http://www.speedstar-racing.com/store/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/31_210/products_id/554

[Andrew]

It's good to know the stainless brake lines made some what of a differance. I've been considering for a while of changing my brake lines to stainless.
Just out of curiousity, what brand did you use and where did you buy them?

might want to try corsportusa they have a combo deal for stainless steel brake lines/clutch line

[RHCP0801]

i got a clutch line with my kit too but never used it, still in my toolbox lol

[Zzyzx]

Brake master cylinder sizing deals with peddle feel, nothing more.

Decreasing the size of the MC increases pressure output and thus shortens the travel of the brake pedal (stiffer and shorter throw)
Increasing the size of the MC decreases pressure output and thus lengthens the travel of the brake pedal (Softer & longer throw)

What pedal feel do you prefer? I'm a middle ground kind of guy, as I like having a bit of pedal travel to make modulating the brakes easier.


Note: there is a huge difference be tween brake pedal feel and actually slowing the car faster. That being said, everything from your rotors back to your brake pedal deal with two things. Temperature control and pedal feel. If you want to actually stop faster you have to look at the one part that is actually touching the asphalt.... your tires, as it is your tires that have to translate all the force the brakes them selves create in to actually slowing the car. And lets be honest, the OEM brakes are plenty capable of locking up, AKA reaching the maximum grip level, of pretty much any tire you could mount on the car.

[SHG_EasyE]

I would recommend Russell braided lines. Best quality lines Ive seen so far...