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iDom
10-09-2010, 03:50 PM
TORQUE SPECS ACCORDING TO THE MANUAL

green circles 116 ft-lb
yellow circles 33 ft-lb
tie rod nut 32 ft-lb
rear strut bolt 45 ft-lb
top rear strut nuts 43 ft-lb

ORDER A-SPEC KIT HERE: A-SPEC A-SPEC A-SPEC (http://www.curryacuraparts.com/pro.html)

PARTS AND PART NUMBERS YOU WILL NEED
NOTE: DEPENDING ON WHERE YOU GET YOUR PARTS FROM, BE AWARE OF THE QUANTITY OF EACH ITEM
2x 90301-S5A-003 (These are the nuts that secure the tie rod placement and where you adjust the toe)
2x 53541-S7A-003 (These are the tie rod ends, also, the ones used for the Honda Element are the exact same ones)
1x 94201-30220 (These are the pins, there's many of them in 1 bag, all you need is one bag)
2x 94030-12280 (These are the nuts that thread on to the tie rod end to hold them on to the strut, mine came as a pack of 2 so the item quantity I ordered was just 1)


http://i51.tinypic.com/kbzs08.jpg

THIS SHOULD ELIMINATE ANY CONFUSION.. YOUR CHECKOUT CART SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS (PINS ARE $0.14 SO GET SOME EXTRA)


http://img857.imageshack.us/img857/338/unledrk.png

OPTIONAL***
This install requires shaving down the bushings on the rear struts (see further down) but if you would like to press out the old bushings and press in ones that fit the ep3 properly, you will need 2 of these.. Part number is 52622-S5A-004
NOTE: This is OPTIONAL. If you have the available resources then I say go for it. It will add about $20 to the parts list, and i'd imagine you would have to find a shop locally that would be able to do it, but for those that are 'scared' to grind down the rears, here is your alternative.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5053/unledbu.png

Some other recommendations.. Any penetrating oil to help break loose bolts and nuts


http://i52.tinypic.com/2n054px.jpg

SPRAY DOWN EVERYTHING!


FRONT

1.
-Start by loosening the lug nut bolts and jacking up your car, take the wheel off and pop the hood.
-Take off the bolts and brackets that hold on the brake and ABS line (Red Circles)


https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3786/11013175753_56d357036c.jpg

-Then, 'LOOSEN/BREAK FREE', do not completely take off the 2 big bolts that hold the knuckle on to the strut. (Green Circles)


http://i54.tinypic.com/20ztnqe.jpg

-Go up under the hood and break loose the top 3 nuts on the strut tower (Yellow Circles)


http://i51.tinypic.com/26417gl.jpg

-I do suggest going in this order, trying to break loose the 2 big bolts that hold the strut on to the knuckle can be tough, having the strut secure in the tower gives a good platform to give it some muscle. Also, this makes sure the axle wont pop out. This DOES happen, and it IS a pain to correct. I recommend using zip ties, like this..


http://i54.tinypic.com/2j3smk0.jpg

-Now, with everything loose but still together, take off the old cotter pin on the tie rod end, then unscrew the nut. Another good thing about leaving everything together but loose, is that you got some wiggle room to maneuver the strut as you hit the bottom of the tie rod end upward to knock it free so you can pull the strut out. I would use a rubber/wooden-mallet/hammer. Keep moving and hitting upward, it will eventually come out. No worries. Then pull the entire strut assembly out.


****DON'T FORGET TO ZIP TIE THE KNUCKLE SO THE AXLE DON'T POP OUT!****

http://i56.tinypic.com/20l029t.jpg

2.
-It's time to swap out the tie rod ends. I had to get crafty because of how weathered all my components under my car were, so this is what I did to get it apart.. Take the proper sized wrenches and put one securely on the tie rod end lock nut as shown in picture. And then take another wrench that fits on the tie rod end itself or vise grips and turn it and break it free, then remove the old one.


https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5544/11013175433_9e59802ccc.jpg

(I used the handle to my jack to go over the handle of the wrench and put it through the empty strut tower, and had someone hold it while I broke free the tie rod end due to the weathering on the parts.


https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2859/11013040465_8d1c64f035.jpg

-Now, screw on the new tie rod end.
NOTE: Your Toe will be F'd and thrown out of whack after putting on these new tie rod ends, not to point the car cannot be driven, but it definitely needs an alignment ASAP after installation is complete.

3.
-Replace the old strut with the new A-Spec strut. I recommend putting it up through the strut tower and just threading on the 3 top nuts (see the yellow circles in the previous picture above) just to get it in there and have it remotely in place and holding itself up.
-Now, don't panic. It's going to look like there's no way in hell they're going to line up and be able to be mounted together, but don't sweat.. What I did, was use that same jack handle to push down the control arm by wedging it to another spot on the frame (shown in pictures below) so that you can line up the mounts and bolt up the knuckle to the strut.


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/11013126474_d3ece3de20.jpg

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7422/11013050736_2900e34d09.jpg

-TIPS: As always, keep everything connected but still loose until everything is connected, then start tightening things down. I would do the 2 large bolts on the knuckle first, then the 3 nuts on top of the strut tower, then I would connect the new tie rod ends for last, because they are easy to get in place since there is so much mobility in the tie rod and the joint rotates and swivels.
-Everything else is pretty strait forward from here on out for the fronts. Just tighten up bolts, secure the new tie rod end with one of the new nuts you purchased and then a cotter pin. Should look like this when you're done..


http://i54.tinypic.com/2mxl7yq.jpg

-Now, do the same thing for the other side, only other tip I can give you for the passenger side is to remove the bolt that's keeping the AC line in place (as shown in picture) This makes it a lot easier to get to the nuts on the top of the strut tower on the passenger side.


http://i51.tinypic.com/219pb0n.jpg

REAR

Before I start on the rears, I gotta give a little background. The bolts in the rear typically, and ESPECIALLY in my case, can be quite problematic. What typically happens, especially here in the northern states is that they seize up on the metal sleeve inside the bushing and they can be an absolute PAIN to take out. For more information on this, and solutions, check the thread below..


FML (http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?59234-Seized-rear-strut-bolt-Pain-in-the-A**)

Because I ran in to these problems, I had to put my installation on pause and wait until a friend of mine had free time so I could get it up on a lift at his work so we could work on this a bit more with more tools around and more range of motion. So because of this, I don't have my own pictures, so I will be using some pictures off of the DIY: Coilovers. Props to CHASEEE

1.
-Jack up the car and remove the wheel, while supporting the car with jack stands of course, and spray down the 2 main bolts (one on the passenger side, one on the drivers side) with penetrating oil. The head of the bolt is not on the outside of the car, it is on the inside, the fixed nut is shown in the picture below. Remove the bolt.


http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq118/chaseerry/10.jpg

-Now, open the hatch and release the back seats so that they fall forward, pull back the carpet and expose the push pin clip thingy's'''' and remove them. Pull out the plastic molding to expose the top of the rear struts, remove the two nuts and pull the old strut out.


http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/qq118/chaseerry/11.jpg

Now compare.


http://i56.tinypic.com/2cdy7mq.jpg

2.
-As you can see, there is a significant difference. It's time to bust out the grinder and get dirty. Take approximately 1.5mm of BOTH sides EVENLY AS POSSIBLE, for a total of 3mm OVERALL to make the rear struts fit. Be careful, this will take some time. Do slow and smooth FULL passes to try and make a nice even grind all the way down. Measure before you start grinding, and keep measuring frequently, you can always take some off, but you can't put it back on. Also, friction causes heat obviously, so give this time and be patient with this. You don't want to grind the piss out of it and melt out the rubber bushing, TAKE YOUR TIME!


https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7303/11013127384_4dfe054f1c.jpg

3.
Put the new A-Spec strut back in. It's as strait forward as the same way you took the old one out. Bolt everything up and make sure everything is tight. FIN.



This is my car as it sits to-date 6/18/2011
16x8 +38 RPF1's 225/50

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5310/5862437700_8e4ea1b1f7_z.jpg

iDom
10-09-2010, 03:53 PM
TIP: If some pictures aren't showing up, try viewing thread in a different browser, I currently use Chrome, Firefox, and IE because sometimes only one of those browsers will load all the pictures.. Don't know why, but I make it work..

BeaterEP
10-09-2010, 05:10 PM
Niiiice write-up man! I'll be referring back to this one in a few years when my HFP setup is shot. :mbiggrin:

How bad was the grinding to make the rear bushings fit?

iDom
10-09-2010, 05:22 PM
No I thought it was pretty easy, like I said in the thread tho, just be really careful & take your time. It does take a little bit. If you can get access to a belt sander that would probably be a lot easier than a grinder, but, either or will work.

iDom
10-17-2010, 12:35 PM
Picture posted showing ride height

neoamd
10-18-2010, 03:44 PM
Nice!

DA9_GSR
10-20-2010, 01:45 PM
Awesome job! As for the alignment, you should have tried:

front camber: -1.5 degrees
front toe: 0.0 degrees
front caster: stock
rear camber: -0.75 degrees
rear toe: 0.0 degrees

Note: front should have more negative camber than rear (reduces understeer)
Note: front camber should be double the rear camber

Being a tech for our local racetrack I've been able to test these specs with
tire temp readings, and it stands true. It's the best setting for street / track use.
A track setup likes having much more aggressive alignment.

If you want a little less aggressive for more of a daily driver, you
should consider these alignment numbers:

front camber: -1.5 degrees
front toe: 0.0 degrees
front caster: stock
rear camber: -0.8 degrees
rear toe: 0.0 degrees

iDom
10-20-2010, 01:54 PM
I didn't use either of the suggested specs, I am planning on getting brand new wheels and better tires next year to take full advantage of a more aggressive alignment. I just posted those because they are OEM recommended. I don't remember exactly what I had mine aligned to, but it is quite mild for now. It drives great though, so i'm happy with it for now. Good recommendations and info though, for sure. I look forward to my next set up with the proper tires and hopefully some kind brake upgrade :)

slate13530
10-22-2010, 09:54 AM
Nice write up and good choice on the suspension setup.

DA9_GSR
11-01-2010, 07:56 AM
iDom, do you find the suspension to be stiff? I've never installed performance (OEM or aftermarket) suspension before. And I thought that this was "way" stiffer than I thought it was going to be. Then again, I did the full polyurethane bushing kit and rear sway bar at the same time too.

2k3hatchie
11-01-2010, 08:31 AM
iDom, do you find the suspension to be stiff? I've never installed performance (OEM or aftermarket) suspension before. And I thought that this was "way" stiffer than I thought it was going to be. Then again, I did the full polyurethane bushing kit and rear sway bar at the same time too.

I've got this kit on my car and I did notice a significant difference over stock. Its not back breaking or anything but its definitely noticeable. Still passes the girlfriend test though:mbiggrin:

The only thing I'd like to change with my A-Spec kit is the way the rear sits (about one extra finger gap compared to the front). I may swap the rear springs in the future to address this (maybe RSX Eibach pro-kit). That said, I'm very happy with the performance and value of this kit. OEM ftw.

iDom
11-01-2010, 11:08 AM
iDom, do you find the suspension to be stiff? I've never installed performance (OEM or aftermarket) suspension before. And I thought that this was "way" stiffer than I thought it was going to be. Then again, I did the full polyurethane bushing kit and rear sway bar at the same time too.

Before this my car had no suspension for 2 years, I was rolling around on blown struts since day 1, but.. Compared to my other friends cars, like a DC2 or an EM2 with Tein coilovers, I'd say mine isn't any worse. I love it, but I have to agree with hatchie, I wish the rear was a tad bit lower but, function > form in my opinion. I'm VERY happy with it. Once these start getting hard to find like the HFP's for our car, I'm going to buy another set for the future.

DA9_GSR
11-01-2010, 11:14 AM
I've got about 2 finger gap in the front and 2 1/2 finger gap in the rear. It's not a noticeable drop, but it handles like a mofo. None of my eg / ek/ dc friends can keep up. I gave an ITR a pretty good run the other week (this is all on track BTW).

iDom
11-01-2010, 11:16 AM
I love mine, as I said before, function > form all day. It's a car, made to be driven.

2k3hatchie
11-01-2010, 04:46 PM
I've got about 2 finger gap in the front and 2 1/2 finger gap in the rear. It's not a noticeable drop, but it handles like a mofo. None of my eg / ek/ dc friends can keep up. I gave an ITR a pretty good run the other week (this is all on track BTW).

Oh yea the EP corners like a toy with the A-spec kit. The other day I was driving my girl's Versa and I was squeeling the tires around an on ramp and I was like wtf? I was only doing like 40 hahah.


I love mine, as I said before, function > form all day. It's a car, made to be driven.

This^

PartyPooper
02-03-2011, 09:35 PM
awesome write up... i have heard that with the this setup you have to change the rear trailing arm(a must or just something extra)??? is that true... also for the the tie rods do you just swap the outer or the inner also??? tie rods: did you use dc5 or ep3???

ace of spades
02-03-2011, 10:17 PM
great DIY. can you add torque specs for all the nuts and bolts? it would be helpful.

usedep3
02-04-2011, 06:51 AM
awesome write up... i have heard that with the this setup you have to change the rear trailing arm(a must or just something extra)??? is that true... also for the the tie rods do you just swap the outer or the inner also??? tie rods: did you use dc5 or ep3???

you would have to use a dc5 trailing arm if you decide that for some reason you do not want to grind down the rear lower shock bushing. another option opposed to grinding is to press out the dc5 bushing and replace with an ep3 one.

also, if you look at the fist post carefully, you'd realize that it's just the tie rod ends that need to be replaced with the dc5 counterpart. the part number is there

lordofthesiths
02-04-2011, 09:50 AM
Im not 100% on this but i believe that the DC5 trailing arms have a different bolt pattern for the lower control ares then the EP3. So you'd need to get the DC5 lower control arms also.

doubledouble
02-04-2011, 11:31 AM
Pardon the noob question, but what kind of suspension is on the Type R?

iDom
02-04-2011, 01:02 PM
awesome write up... i have heard that with the this setup you have to change the rear trailing arm(a must or just something extra)??? is that true... also for the the tie rods do you just swap the outer or the inner also??? tie rods: did you use dc5 or ep3???

Everything you need to do is listed in the write up. All the parts that you don't already have on your EP3 is listed in the thread as well.

You will need two, DC5 tie rod ends, just the ends, not the entire rod. The same ones that come on the DC5 are used on the Honda Element.

You can get all the parts from a Honda Dealership, there is a picture with the part numbers listed.

iDom
02-04-2011, 01:04 PM
Questions about the Lower Control Arms (LCA): You can use the ones that come with the Ep3, but the rear struts are wider at the bottom where they bolt up to the LCA, that is why you have to shave/grind them down to make them fit in there but you don't have to touch the LCA's at all. It's really easy.

iDom
02-04-2011, 01:44 PM
Pardon the noob question, but what kind of suspension is on the Type R?

Pretty sure it's just the HFP kit, which is discontinued.. There are many other differences with the suspension alone on a JDM ep3 Type R and an everyday 02-05 Civic Si. There is a thread 'somewhere' that I remember seeing that has a list of things you can do to "Type R" your car.

doubledouble
02-04-2011, 01:59 PM
Pretty sure it's just the HFP kit, which is discontinued.. There are many other differences with the suspension alone on a JDM ep3 Type R and an everyday 02-05 Civic Si. There is a thread 'somewhere' that I remember seeing that has a list of things you can do to "Type R" your car.

Not to thread jack but thanks for the response. I would be most interested in seeing that thread. (I'm tryin' decide on a different suspension set-up atm).

lordofthesiths
02-04-2011, 05:23 PM
not trying to be a pian but are you sure?
The reason im asking is BC a guy on clubrsx with an em2 is sell a pair of dc5 trailing arms BC he bought EP3 LCA and they don't fit.
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=705305
Also every LCA for the DC5 has a diferent part # then the EP3 but some of the EP3/EM2 are the same.

iDom
02-05-2011, 11:22 PM
Yes the LCA's for the DC5 ARE different, that is why you have to shave down the rear struts to make them fit in the ep3 LCA's because they are smaller. There's a picture showing and explaining the differences in the thread.
Yes, I am 100% sure. If you have the parts listed in the thread, and do as it says, it will work. As sure as the car I drive every single day, it works my friend lol.

lordofthesiths
02-06-2011, 04:36 PM
you've miss understood what i'm asking about. I was referring to usedep3's post about using the DC5 trailing arms so you don't have to grind the struts down.
What i'm saying is that if you use the DC5 trailing arm you also have to use the DC5 LCA BC of the bolt pattern of the LCA.

iDom
02-06-2011, 04:46 PM
I see what you're saying now. My mistake. Here's my take on it. This suspension is good, no doubt, but I believe what makes it 'great' is it's price at 650 brand new, and the simplicity of the installation.

If grinding the rears down is a concern, I might suggest getting a nice set of coilovers instead because after the price you'd pay for the tie rod ends and new LCA's and all the other components, you'll probably of spent the same amount, if not more, PLUS a lot more work load doing it.

A set of ep3 specific progress, buddy club, tein, etc.. coilovers can be had for about 1k, you'll have to decide what's best for you. The a-spec with tie rod ends and all the other stuff is about 750 after tax and everything else, plus 2 LCA's and everything else, especially if you get them new, will easily be over 1k.

usedep3
02-06-2011, 10:38 PM
you've miss understood what i'm asking about. I was referring to usedep3's post about using the DC5 trailing arms so you don't have to grind the struts down.
What i'm saying is that if you use the DC5 trailing arm you also have to use the DC5 LCA BC of the bolt pattern of the LCA.

well, i was just saying that it is an option (an expensive option), if the installer didnt want to grind anything or press in new bushings. as far as i know, you cannot buy just the DC5 or the EP3 rear LCA. the trailing arm comes with the LCA already installed as one piece. i assumed that when i said trailing arm, people understood that meant trailing arm plus the LCA bc honda does not sell them separately. we all know that the LCA and the trailing arm can be disassembled from one another and replaced with aftermarket LCAs from Skunk2, megan, etc, etc

so yes, we're both right in a way, the DC5 trailing arm implys that you have to use the DC5 LCA that comes with it. good looking out though

PartyPooper
02-11-2011, 05:51 PM
Everything you need to do is listed in the write up. All the parts that you don't already have on your EP3 is listed in the thread as well.

You will need two, DC5 tie rod ends, just the ends, not the entire rod. The same ones that come on the DC5 are used on the Honda Element.

You can get all the parts from a Honda Dealership, there is a picture with the part numbers listed.

thanks again.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
02-14-2011, 06:07 PM
i might do this instead of buying a used HFP....

how would you go about installing a bigger sway/strut with these a-spec??
you can't get the ones for ep anymore?
o.O

iDom
02-14-2011, 06:24 PM
thanks again.
No problem man.


i might do this instead of buying a used HFP....

how would you go about installing a bigger sway/strut with these a-spec??
you can't get the ones for ep anymore?
o.O
I couldn't give you a strait answer on that. It was never a concern to me so I haven't looked in to it. Also, everything I have ever read as far as suspension and our cars go, unless you're really looking for a tenth of a second or something like that, those minor things aren't too significant. Skills/Tires/Suspension/Brakes, once you master those, that's when the other stuff can be looked in to.. That's what I've gotten from my readings.. Someone else feel free to chime in and correct me if i'm wrong.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
02-14-2011, 07:23 PM
No problem man.


I couldn't give you a strait answer on that. It was never a concern to me so I haven't looked in to it. Also, everything I have ever read as far as suspension and our cars go, unless you're really looking for a tenth of a second or something like that, those minor things aren't too significant. Skills/Tires/Suspension/Brakes, once you master those, that's when the other stuff can be looked in to.. That's what I've gotten from my readings.. Someone else feel free to chime in and correct me if i'm wrong.

very good write up though.
I'm going to get my hands on an spec and do this asap.
definitely beats paying for a used HFP

Can you post better pictures of your ep for a better look at the wheel gap and whatnot?
im guessing your driving the 02-03 model with the 15inch ?

iDom
02-14-2011, 10:49 PM
Yes I can sometime soon. Although you should know, HFP/Mugen/A-Spec are not known for their 'slammed' appearance. They are function > form suspension setups. Dropping the car more than an inch or so negatively affect our cars handling performance. But, I can tell you right now and anyone on here should be able to tell you the same thing, if you have a nice HFP/A-Spec setup, with good tires, you can have a blast with these cars on autoX and what not for considerably cheap.

iDom
02-14-2011, 10:51 PM
The only complaint common with the A-Spec is that people wish that it was a bit lower in the rear, it is not 'perfect' but I think that it's just fine. Here is a more recent picture of the rear and as it sits with stock wheels/tires (195/60/15)

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/5202/img00025201102091400.jpg

NEO_FOLLOWER2
02-16-2011, 01:11 PM
The only complaint common with the A-Spec is that people wish that it was a bit lower in the rear, it is not 'perfect' but I think that it's just fine. Here is a more recent picture of the rear and as it sits with stock wheels/tires (195/60/15)

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/5202/img00025201102091400.jpg

looks good i have stock 16's so my tire gap should be a bit smaller i assume. thanks alot!
yeah i actually only want less than an inch drop but not for autox or anything
mainly because stock is way too high and anything lower...i'd have to watch where i drive all the time where i live(which imo defeats the purpose of having a 'sports' car)

and also...what tail lights do you have? o.O

iDom
02-16-2011, 04:46 PM
looks good i have stock 16's so my tire gap should be a bit smaller i assume. thanks alot!
yeah i actually only want less than an inch drop but not for autox or anything
mainly because stock is way too high and anything lower...i'd have to watch where i drive all the time where i live(which imo defeats the purpose of having a 'sports' car)

and also...what tail lights do you have? o.O

Well, your overall wheel size should be the same as mine, just less tire, so the gap will stay the same. It's really not bad tho in all seriousness.
Oh, and they're the ultimate JDM as F, total bitch gettin tail lights. Very rare

NEO_FOLLOWER2
02-16-2011, 04:51 PM
Well, your overall wheel size should be the same as mine, just less tire, so the gap will stay the same. It's really not bad tho in all seriousness.
Oh, and they're the ultimate JDM as F, total bitch gettin tail lights. Very rare

o really.
i saw some like those on honda tech and i asked around and no one seemed to know what they were

i wanted to get my hands on some but they don't even seem to exist?

how did you get yours?

http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/1151/dscn1900wi1.jpg

are these them?

iDom
02-16-2011, 04:57 PM
o really.
i saw some like those on honda tech and i asked around and no one seemed to know what they were

i wanted to get my hands on some but they don't even seem to exist?

how did you get yours?

http://img387.imageshack.us/img387/1151/dscn1900wi1.jpg

are these them?

I was just kidding lol, yes them are it. Here's the story on that.. When I first bought my car, I paid with part cash and part loan so I was tapped out, the original owner had some HIDEOUS alteza 3D crap tail lights on them that just simply was NOT acceptable, so I got the cheapest thing I could find.. Which turned out ok cause they look pretty decent. But, they were on ebay for 50 dollars shipped about 2 years ago.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
02-16-2011, 05:08 PM
they were on ebay for 50 dollars shipped about 2 years ago.
:meek:
:ebay:

whats the part # on your aspec suspension btw?

interesting that those are ebay lights.... i like those better than the type r lights

iDom
02-16-2011, 07:42 PM
I know haha, it's a lot better than the crappy 3D ones that were on there.

Speaking of eBay.. Type in 'a-spec suspension cury acura'
That's where I got mine. I don't know the part number.

doubledouble
02-24-2011, 10:48 PM
I've read you need a special honda puller tool in order to remove the strut from the tie rod, but I don't see you using this in your write up. You used a hammer?? Details needed.

Thanks!

iDom
02-28-2011, 12:29 PM
I've read you need a special honda puller tool in order to remove the strut from the tie rod, but I don't see you using this in your write up. You used a hammer?? Details needed.

Thanks!

Use a rubber mallet or some kind of hammer/mallet that IS NOT metal, and just hit upward to push the tie rod out, it helps to turn the wheel while the car is jacked up and hit it lightly. You don't want to use a metal hammer because you will mess up the very bottom threads and won't be able to screw the nut on it. Yes, you WILL be replacing the tie rod ends, but it's still a good idea not to destroy the old ones, you might want to go back to stock, or you could sell them, or whatever you choose to do.

If you only have a regular metal hammer, use a piece of wood or something to put between the two so the impact of the hammer isn't as harsh.

doubledouble
02-28-2011, 08:54 PM
Use a rubber mallet or some kind of hammer/mallet that IS NOT metal, and just hit upward to push the tie rod out, it helps to turn the wheel while the car is jacked up and hit it lightly. You don't want to use a metal hammer because you will mess up the very bottom threads and won't be able to screw the nut on it. Yes, you WILL be replacing the tie rod ends, but it's still a good idea not to destroy the old ones, you might want to go back to stock, or you could sell them, or whatever you choose to do.

If you only have a regular metal hammer, use a piece of wood or something to put between the two so the impact of the hammer isn't as harsh.

I'm not actually using this DIY for the a-spec suspension (so I will def. be re-using my tie rods) but it helps nonetheless. Just to be clear, tap the bolt at the bottom upward and it should free itself and upon installing new strut the tie rod bolt should slide right in??

Thanks again, I really need to get this done asap.

iDom
03-01-2011, 07:46 AM
Yes. GENTLY tap it so you don't damage anything. Also, if you DO end up messing one of them up, I have 2 I can sell you that I don't use anymore since I use the RSX tie rod ends.

doubledouble
03-06-2011, 01:27 PM
okay been trying to dislodge the tie rod for over an hour. Using a rubber mallet like you suggested as a friend is turning the wheel.

THE TIE ROD WILL NOT GIVE!

Am I missing something here? (Pulling my hairs out).


Someone anyone please help.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
03-22-2011, 09:29 AM
im about to let a shop do this diy for me
because i need new bushings all around also
being a student and working i dont have too much time to mess around with the car myself

so...i don't HAVE to get new tie rods and all?
i can reuse stock?

iDom
03-22-2011, 09:42 AM
No, you do need them. They're bigger than the ep3 ones.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
03-22-2011, 10:06 AM
No, you do need them. They're bigger than the ep3 ones.

oh i see
doubledouble confused me with the post about reusing tie rod ends
i thought i ordered mine for no reason:smile:

i hope the shop doesnt have a problem with grinding down the rear ones a bit:ohwell:

i'm excited!
ill post pictures of before and after when i get a chance.

iDom
03-22-2011, 11:34 AM
oh i see
doubledouble confused me with the post about reusing tie rod ends
i thought i ordered mine for no reason:smile:

i hope the shop doesnt have a problem with grinding down the rear ones a bit:ohwell:

i'm excited!
ill post pictures of before and after when i get a chance.

I meant, not to damage the ep3 tie rod ends because they can either be reused (on ep3 specific suspension setups) or sold. Better than just tossing them in the trash.

Also, some people have mentioned that you can press out the bushing in the rear and have ep3 ones put in but, I don't know where you could get the bushings and where you would have to go to have that done. But, just thought i'd mention it.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
03-29-2011, 09:35 PM
I meant, not to damage the ep3 tie rod ends because they can either be reused (on ep3 specific suspension setups) or sold. Better than just tossing them in the trash.

Also, some people have mentioned that you can press out the bushing in the rear and have ep3 ones put in but, I don't know where you could get the bushings and where you would have to go to have that done. But, just thought i'd mention it.

hm so the shop said that they didnt want to shave it down because of liability issues
so i'd have to shave it down myself
or change the bushing?

couldn't the installer just push out the bushings on my stock ep3 and put them into the aspec?

or does someone know where i can order them brand new?

i dont have the correct tools in order to shave them down myself -_-
and i can't take it to another shop because they are also changing out other bushings and doing maintenance(tranny fluid alignment etc) for cheap because my dad is friend's with them just waiting on me to come drop the car off to do everything at once.

iDom
03-30-2011, 12:24 PM
hm so the shop said that they didnt want to shave it down because of liability issues
so i'd have to shave it down myself
or change the bushing?

couldn't the installer just push out the bushings on my stock ep3 and put them into the aspec?

or does someone know where i can order them brand new?

i dont have the correct tools in order to shave them down myself -_-
and i can't take it to another shop because they are also changing out other bushings and doing maintenance(tranny fluid alignment etc) for cheap because my dad is friend's with them just waiting on me to come drop the car off to do everything at once.

I personally don't know where you could get the bushings and I don't recall stumbling upon any thread or any person who has actually pressed the RSX ones out and put in the EP3 ones. All threads I've found have suggested just griding them down. If you can see from the picture, the only tools we used was a grinder and some people stood around some wooden 2x4's to hold it in place. But, I suggest going slow because you can always more off, but you can't put more back on. I would use a caliper to measure the stock EP3 bushings and keep checking frequently as you grind away at the RSX struts until they match up pretty evenly.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-01-2011, 12:06 AM
ok so... take a look at this

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2004&catcgry3=3DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=REAR+SHOCK+ABSORBER

on majestic it lists the ep3 stock rear lower bushing as a seperate part...
so if i order #7 i assume i can just get the shop to push out the rsx bushing and put in those?(part # listed: 52622-S5A-004)
because theyre already replacing a crapload other bushings im sure they have correct tools to remove/replace bushings

only thing is i dont trust myself to know that that is the correct bushing i need to order lol

-_-

anyone confirm this for me?

also what is #14(trailing arm bolt) would it be necessary for me to buy that also


also just to confirm i have everything i need before i go back to the shop...
you bought
2x 53541-s7a-003
2x 90301-s5a-003
1x 94030-12280
1x 94201-30220

??

iDom
04-01-2011, 06:04 AM
You don't need #14, the metal sleeve isn't any bigger or smaller so they fit right in.
Yes, that picture with the part numbers is everything that you would need, minus the a-spec kit itself.

blackcivic11
04-07-2011, 04:40 PM
i'd really like to know if its possible just to swap bushings for the rear... since I have a press at my place this would be alot easier and a hell of alot more accurate lol

if anyone knows if the bushings can be changed for ep3 ones please let us know here!

iDom
04-07-2011, 05:09 PM
Yes you can. People have suggested doing that but for a lot of people it's not an option.

blackcivic11
04-07-2011, 05:23 PM
ya i know its been suggested but has can anyone confirm that it does indeed work 100%?

hkrayingboyz
04-08-2011, 12:08 PM
what is the easist way to pop the axles back out? I guess my zip tie wasnt strong enough. Need help pop back in the axles since that all i need left to finish my suspension

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-08-2011, 03:51 PM
ya i know its been suggested but has can anyone confirm that it does indeed work 100%?

i'll be able to confirm it once i get everything in my the mail for my suspension and i take my car to the shop...

but since my es master bushing kit got put on backorder(2-3weeks extra wait time) it might take a month\

if honda sells the bushing for the ep seperately
it means its removable and replaceable...i dont see how you'd have a hard time especially since you have a bushing press

DP420...did this thread really needa bump lol:mrolleyes:

iDom
04-09-2011, 10:42 AM
Yes as NEO said, if they sell it separately, that means it can be replaced separately.

iDom
04-09-2011, 10:46 AM
what is the easist way to pop the axles back out? I guess my zip tie wasnt strong enough. Need help pop back in the axles since that all i need left to finish my suspension

You just gotta keep jiggling it and spin it and eventually it will pop back in but it is definitely going to be a pain in the ass. If you want further information, I suggest looking for the DIY: 5 Lug Swap thread on here, I believe he addresses the situation a bit more in depth.

blackcivic11
04-14-2011, 05:31 PM
i know they are sold seperatly but what i need to know is if they are the same diameter and the ep3 bushing will fit in the rsx shock

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-14-2011, 10:42 PM
i know they are sold seperatly but what i need to know is if they are the same diameter and the ep3 bushing will fit in the rsx shock

i ordered the bushings coming in monday...
aspec suspension coming a few weeks later
if you can wait that long i can take pics and show you whether or not they are the same diameter

tsxdriver
04-16-2011, 11:47 AM
Quick question... How many of part numbers 94030-12280 and 94201-30220 do I need in total? I know someone mentioned 1x, but does that mean just one single piece? Or do I need multiples of those pieces?

blackcivic11
04-18-2011, 08:32 AM
i ordered the bushings coming in monday...
aspec suspension coming a few weeks later
if you can wait that long i can take pics and show you whether or not they are the same diameter

that would be great, that is a long time however lol... wanted to pick up my coilovers tonight..

The grinding is what is worrying me... i have this idea in my head that its gonna be hard to get right (measurement wise; what did you use to measure it?)

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-18-2011, 11:46 AM
that would be great, that is a long time however lol... wanted to pick up my coilovers tonight..

The grinding is what is worrying me... i have this idea in my head that its gonna be hard to get right (measurement wise; what did you use to measure it?)

i can put a picture up of the bushings and measurement....if someone else can measure the rsx aspec bushing...
then you have your answer

ill put it up as soon as i get home

iDom
04-18-2011, 01:02 PM
The size of the RSX one is irrelevant though, since the ep3 one is the only one that matters. But, when I did mine, I believe there is a 3mm difference between the RSX one and the ep3 one, so once you find out the size of it, just add 3mm and there you go.

Grinding it down isn't 'machine/robot precise' but as long as it fits snuggly in there and doesn't have any play, then you'll be fine. You gotta remember the entire thing is being secured with suspension bolts that are quite beefy. I have no squeeks or clunks or any problems at all with mine and I grinded them down. Just remember if you DO decide to grind them down, go slowly and you'll be fine. You can always take some off, but you can't add more on. BUT, the bushings can be replaced so if all else fails, there you go. Ultimately it's your decision but at the same time, if you're careful, either way will suffice.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-18-2011, 06:43 PM
Quick question... How many of part numbers 94030-12280 and 94201-30220 do I need in total? I know someone mentioned 1x, but does that mean just one single piece? Or do I need multiples of those pieces?

thats a good question

i just got all my stuff in today except for the coilovers themselves

i ordered

2 of 53541-s7a-003
2 of 90301-s5a-003
1 of 94030-12280
1 of 94201-30220

and
2 of 52622-S5A-004 which are the --BUSH, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER (LOWER)-- (bushings for ep3)

and im sure they fit...if you still want me to post pictures or anything lmk...

otherwise you'll have to wait about a 2-3 more weeks until i get mine installed

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-18-2011, 07:10 PM
thats a good question

i just got all my stuff in today except for the coilovers themselves

i ordered

2 of 53541-s7a-003
2 of 90301-s5a-003
1 of 94030-12280
1 of 94201-30220

and
2 of 52622-S5A-004 which are the --BUSH, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER (LOWER)-- (bushings for ep3)

and im sure they fit...if you still want me to post pictures or anything lmk...

otherwise you'll have to wait about a 2-3 more weeks until i get mine installed

so i order 1 more of 94030-12280 and 94201-30220 because in the picture i saw that your one package came with 2 12mm hex bolts..and mine one package came with only one
and shipping kicked my ass lol $1.50 for the parts, $10 shipping... i hope 2 bolts and 2 pins are enough for install because...if i need more of them...its gonna be one damn expensive order

tsxdriver
04-18-2011, 07:46 PM
Exactly! In idom's photo it looks as if some of his packages have multiples while when I got my stuff from Honda I only received one single piece. So what's the breakdown of the total pieces that I'll need?? Thanks!


thats a good question

i just got all my stuff in today except for the coilovers themselves

i ordered

2 of 53541-s7a-003
2 of 90301-s5a-003
1 of 94030-12280
1 of 94201-30220

and
2 of 52622-S5A-004 which are the --BUSH, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER (LOWER)-- (bushings for ep3)

and im sure they fit...if you still want me to post pictures or anything lmk...

otherwise you'll have to wait about a 2-3 more weeks until i get mine installed


so i order 1 more of 94030-12280 and 94201-30220 because in the picture i saw that your one package came with 2 12mm hex bolts..and mine one package came with only one
and shipping kicked my ass lol $1.50 for the parts, $10 shipping... i hope 2 bolts and 2 pins are enough for install because...if i need more of them...its gonna be one damn expensive order

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-18-2011, 07:56 PM
first order i made::
2 of 53541-s7a-003
2 of 90301-s5a-003
1 of 94030-12280
1 of 94201-30220

2nd order i made just now::
1 of 94030-12280
1 of 94201-30220

i realized you need 2 pins and 2 nuts...( i hope nothing more than what i ordered because shipping = $$$$$$)

tsxdriver
04-18-2011, 08:13 PM
Cool beans! Thanks!


first order i made::
2 of 53541-s7a-003
2 of 90301-s5a-003
1 of 94030-12280
1 of 94201-30220

2nd order i made just now::
1 of 94030-12280
1 of 94201-30220

i realized you need 2 pins and 2 nuts...( i hope nothing more than what i ordered because shipping = $$$$$$)

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-18-2011, 08:15 PM
and to clarify...
each of those packages only contains one of the said item in it

idk where idom ordered his stuff, but im buying mine on majestic and only 1 of each was included

OH YEAH
and of course i ordered the ep3 bushings with the first order also(the ones we've been talking about replacing aspec ones)

2 of 52622-S5A-004 which are the --BUSH, RR. SHOCK ABSORBER (LOWER)-- (bushings for ep3)

blackcivic11
04-19-2011, 06:09 AM
Alright well finally i remembered I have access to a machine shop so i got the machinist to take off 1.5mm on each side lol

problem solved

iDom
04-19-2011, 11:39 AM
Guys, my apologies. I will update the parts list. I bought mine from a dealership.

2x 90301-S5A-003 (These are the nuts that secure the tie rod placement and where you adjust the toe)
2x 53541-S7A-003 (These are the tie rod ends, also, the ones used for the Honda Element are the exact same ones)
1x 94201-30220 (These are the pins, there's many of them in 1 bag, all you need is one bag)
1x 94030-12280 (These are the nuts that thread on to the tie rod end to hold them on to the strut, mine came as a pack of 2 so the item quantity I ordered was just 1)

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-19-2011, 01:07 PM
Guys, my apologies. I will update the parts list. I bought mine from a dealership.

2x 90301-S5A-003 (These are the nuts that secure the tie rod placement and where you adjust the toe)
2x 53541-S7A-003 (These are the tie rod ends, also, the ones used for the Honda Element are the exact same ones)
1x 94201-30220 (These are the pins, there's many of them in 1 bag, all you need is one bag)
1x 94030-12280 (These are the nuts that thread on to the tie rod end to hold them on to the strut, mine came as a pack of 2 so the item quantity I ordered was just 1)

fyi if you're ordering from majestic
they only include 1 pin and 1 nut(1 item per package, no multiples)
so you'll need to specify the quantity as 2+

save yourself the ass kicking on shipping prices and order it right the first time lol

iDom
04-19-2011, 01:16 PM
fyi if you're ordering from majestic
they only include 1 pin and 1 nut(1 item per package, no multiples)
so you'll need to specify the quantity as 2+

save yourself the ass kicking on shipping prices and order it right the first time lol

Yes wherever you order from just pay attention to what you're doing. It will tell you the required quantity, and how many come per purchase, just make sure everything is appropriate. I ordered mine strait from the dealership, their inventory website is soooo much better than any other. But, I am lucky enough to be able to get these at cost.

Just trust me when I say this, don't stress this swap it really is strait forward. The only problems are rusty bolts, and shaving down the rears, that's it.

iDom
04-20-2011, 03:32 PM
Updated and cleaned up the thread and added torque specs!

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-20-2011, 04:56 PM
Updated and cleaned up the thread and added torque specs!

shop quoted me way too much money to install the Energy suspension master kit...so im gonna be doing the whole isntall myself sometime soon...

so im installing
es master bushing kit
esmm
aspec coilovers

hope it isnt going to be too time consuming...

btw what size are your rpf1? and tire...im gonna get some new wheels soon so just wondering so i can see my wheel gap

iDom
04-20-2011, 06:09 PM
shop quoted me way too much money to install the Energy suspension master kit...so im gonna be doing the whole isntall myself sometime soon...

so im installing
es master bushing kit
esmm
aspec coilovers

hope it isnt going to be too time consuming...

btw what size are your rpf1? and tire...im gonna get some new wheels soon so just wondering so i can see my wheel gap

I don't want to burst your bubble but yes that's a lot of work to be done so it will probably take a good bit amount of time but it'll be worth it in the end. Depends on how weathered your vehicle is and how much of a pain some bolts are going to be to get off.. But..

16x8 +38
225/50

iDom
04-20-2011, 08:25 PM
:)

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-29-2011, 01:43 PM
doing my install right now car is sitting in the garage...

so should i go get it in aligned to these specs?

front camber: -1.0 degrees
front toe: 0.0 degrees
front caster: stock
rear camber: -0.5 degrees
rear toe: 0.0 degrees

what is HFP//aspec alignment specs?

iDom
04-29-2011, 01:58 PM
It depends what you want to do, really. For me, my ep3 is my only car so I have my alignment zeroed out. If you're just driving it daily and not autocrossing or anything like that I wouldn't go too crazy but yes 1 in the front and .5 in the rear would be pretty solid I would say.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-29-2011, 03:26 PM
It depends what you want to do, really. For me, my ep3 is my only car so I have my alignment zeroed out. If you're just driving it daily and not autocrossing or anything like that I wouldn't go too crazy but yes 1 in the front and .5 in the rear would be pretty solid I would say.

you have it zero'd out as in zero camber?

im dding my car as well

hmm....

iDom
05-01-2011, 12:45 PM
Yes, everything is zero.

blackcivic11
05-02-2011, 01:54 PM
ok I installed all the suspension, went ofr an alignment and they can't take away all the toe in....

they maxed out the tie rod ends and theres still toe in... I don't get it i used the same tie rods as in this thread. Is this possible?

iDom
05-02-2011, 02:24 PM
Hmm.. I've never heard of that problem.. Mine was toe'd in pretty far when I drove it to get it aligned and they had no problem correcting it.

What was it when you took it there and what is it now after they did all that they could do?

hkrayingboyz
05-02-2011, 02:32 PM
I think you might want to go to different store to check your car. I think the shop you went to doesnt know what they are doing. All toe should be 0 cuz that all they can do unless you have camber kit.

We just need more info about that shop and what they did.

blackcivic11
05-02-2011, 03:00 PM
I brought the car and it was at +2.2 toe (crazy toe in)

He adjusted the tie rod end (spun it in to the rod end making the tie rod shorter (persay)

He said he couldn't adjust it any further caues there waas no more threads (reached th inside of the tie rod end)

leaving me with approximately +1 on toe

iDom
05-02-2011, 03:10 PM
Correct me if i'm wrong, but screwing them in would shorten the overall tie rod length, which would cause the toe to go in, which is the problem, right?

I am not sure myself cause I took it to a friends work at a dealership and he of course did all the aligning.

Regardless, I would take it somewhere else and see if they tell you the same thing. Who knows if his machines are properly calibrated.

blackcivic11
05-02-2011, 04:10 PM
Correct me if i'm wrong, but screwing them in would shorten the overall tie rod length, which would cause the toe to go in, which is the problem, right?

I am not sure myself cause I took it to a friends work at a dealership and he of course did all the aligning.

Regardless, I would take it somewhere else and see if they tell you the same thing. Who knows if his machines are properly calibrated.

actually if you shorten the tie rod end (it pulls the back of the wheel inwards (into the car) pushing the front out. So this is the right way to do it but i found this eally odd...

OK heres a question: when you installed the rsx tie rod ends, ddi you thread them all the way onto the tie rod till it couldn't be threaded on anymore?

Or did you only do 10 or 15 whole tunrs (i don't know if you understand what i mean lol)

If someone knows how to align a car... can they explain how to do it? Is there two adjustments? are both sides adjusted separately?

hkrayingboyz
05-02-2011, 04:18 PM
actually if you shorten the tie rod end (it pulls the back of the wheel inwards (into the car) pushing the front out. So this is the right way to do it but i found this eally odd...

OK heres a question: when you installed the rsx tie rod ends, ddi you thread them all the way onto the tie rod till it couldn't be threaded on anymore?

Or did you only do 10 or 15 whole tunrs (i don't know if you understand what i mean lol)

If someone knows how to align a car... can they explain how to do it? Is there two adjustments? are both sides adjusted separately?


I know the fact that both sides adjusted separately because basically the tie rod end is like a nut and the other nut inside is to tie the tie rod end and the nut together with the tie rod itself.

you adjust until you have alig then you use the inside nut to lock tight against the tie rod end to make sure the tie rod end doesnt move.

Correct me if im wrong.

blackcivic11
05-02-2011, 04:45 PM
yes hats what i thought but this guy didn't touch the drivers side.... he said he adjusted it (on the passenger side and it adjusts both)????

iDom
05-02-2011, 04:56 PM
Yes that is how it works. I think that you should take it to another place and see what they tell you.

G-MaC!
05-02-2011, 06:09 PM
A-Spec is looking more and more convincing all the time. Seems like a decent upgrade without dishing out too much.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
05-02-2011, 10:07 PM
A-Spec is looking more and more convincing all the time. Seems like a decent upgrade without dishing out too much.

definitely is worth it...if you lower it past an inch you start messing with the suspension geometry so its a perfect drop i hear
if its too high still for you, you can eventually upgrade shocks for a fairly cheap amt

G-MaC!
05-02-2011, 10:54 PM
definitely is worth it...if you lower it past an inch you start messing with the suspension geometry so its a perfect drop i hear
if its too high still for you, you can eventually upgrade shocks for a fairly cheap amt

That's what I'm thinking. I'm on Racelands right now but not really digging it, and I am maxed out on height and it is still too high. Driving a slammed car on the roads here just isn't practical. We don't have potholes, we have like damn sinkholes.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
05-02-2011, 11:17 PM
That's what I'm thinking. I'm on Racelands right now but not really digging it, and I am maxed out on height and it is still too high. Driving a slammed car on the roads here just isn't practical. We don't have potholes, we have like damn sinkholes.

if you're maxed on height on your racelands...just lower them? you should be able to adjust height until its perfect for your liking...then go an alignment after
remember to let it set it in also they'll be a bit lower once they settle in

G-MaC!
05-03-2011, 12:10 PM
Maybe my post didn't quite make sense, my car is too low. And I can't raise it up anymore I'm actually at the top of the threads. The whole coilover is a lot smaller in general compared to stock.

iDom
05-03-2011, 02:24 PM
I mean no offense, at all.. But with the racelands.. You get what you pay for. Some people love them for their cheap price, but something as important as suspension shouldn't really be cheaped out on. Things that matter anyway.. Things that don't really matter are replica side skirts and rear wings and stuff like that. Performance parts, don't go cheap.

G-MaC!
05-03-2011, 02:35 PM
Exactly!

blackcivic11
05-04-2011, 09:10 AM
update!

The tie rod ends are indeed maxed out... tends to be a common problem with the ep3's when going low... the tie rods are too long... solution = http://www.teamspirit.net/rsx/tierods.html

shorter tierods

iDom
05-04-2011, 10:24 AM
update!

The tie rod ends are indeed maxed out... tends to be a common problem with the ep3's when going low... the tie rods are too long... solution = http://www.teamspirit.net/rsx/tierods.html

shorter tierods

Wait, you put the A-Spec on, correct? It most definitely should not be too low.

Is the white mark on the top hat on the drivers side pointing away from the engine?

blackcivic11
05-04-2011, 10:27 AM
i guess this may be where most of the confusion is coming from.

I'm not running A-spec suspension, I have coilovers from an RSX, used your DIY to fit them on my ep3

so ya the car is pretty low lol

iDom
05-04-2011, 10:32 AM
Ohhhh haha ok.

Well, raise the car up haha. Or, I think you can get a little bit more wiggle room if you put the tie rod ends in through the bottom upward instead of through the top. I believe there is a thread on here somewhere labeled something like "How to stop your racelands from clunking" or something like that? I don't know for sure, it's worth a look.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
05-06-2011, 03:20 PM
sooo i finished everything except for the motor mount inserts.

i havent done an alignment yet, driving it feels funny but i need it to go to finals next week
don't have time to finish putting on the motor mount inserts, i am going to need to drop the subframe to do it.
should i get an alignment now? or wait and do it when the motor mounts are done? and is it ok to drive for the next week w/o an alignment?

pictures of wheel gap coming soon
=]]

idom idk why your is so high. mine looks almost exactly as high as yours maybe a bit lower and it hasn't had time to set in yet

NEO_FOLLOWER2
05-06-2011, 03:22 PM
and to add to the bushing deal...i took it to shop and we couldn't get it out

although we didn't have a 100ton bushing press

so we just grinded it

i does come out tho i've seen it before on the forums somewhere
here http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2748948&page=37

if anyone wants to buy the ep3 bushings lmk...even if it is months and months later can't hurt to ask me
idk what ima do with them so yeah.

G-MaC!
05-07-2011, 10:38 AM
Question for people rocking these, how is the ride quality and handling? I have been trying to find the spring rates but I can't find them anywhere. I'm just going to assume they are pretty close to Mugen SS.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
05-07-2011, 07:43 PM
ride quality is great. its not too harsh but not too soft feels like it should
handling is great also. but i have sway/strut bars and stuff so i can't really say but it is compareable to aftermarket

my best guess would be that its close but the mugens are a bit stiffer...not by much nothing your butt dyno will notice

Andrew
05-08-2011, 11:49 PM
ride quality is great. its not too harsh but not too soft feels like it should
handling is great also. but i have sway/strut bars and stuff so i can't really say but it is compareable to aftermarket

my best guess would be that its close but the mugens are a bit stiffer...not by much nothing your butt dyno will notice

i am so jealous. i have always wanted the HFP kit or the Type-S A-spec kit, but i cant shy away from being lowered so i am on megan racing street coilovers and theyre pretty good for DD

iDom
05-09-2011, 10:29 AM
Question for people rocking these, how is the ride quality and handling? I have been trying to find the spring rates but I can't find them anywhere. I'm just going to assume they are pretty close to Mugen SS.

Ride quality is very good IMO. Personally.. I HATE new cars cause they all have the mushy feeling, slow steering response, or that floaty 'on a cloud' feeling while traveling at highway speeds. I like feeling the road personally. The A-Spec isn't back breaking or anything. I believe the Mugen SS suspension is a bit stiffer, some say 'too' stiff and yes the spring rates are higher than the A-Spec from what I remember, not a whole lot though. But I think it all comes down to personal preference. Like I said, I like a stiffer suspension and ride. It's a car, made to be driven. It's not a recliner with wheels..

As far as handling goes.. It is best to say that it most definitely is an upgrade over stock or slammed racelands or, slammed anything for that matter.. But, handling depends on more than just suspension. Tires are number 1 and don't forget about the person behind the wheel! Sway bars, bushings, and suspension are added to the equation too, of course.. But, what I'm getting at, is that it most definitely is an upgrade and will improve handling, to what degree depends on many other factors. I hope that helps.

G-MaC!
05-09-2011, 06:26 PM
Great info, thanks!

G-MaC!
05-20-2011, 02:45 PM
Does anyone know what size the hex nut is with the part number 90301-S5A-003? My stealership is telling me it is going to take until at least June 6th to get it. Really, June 6th just to get a damn hex nut?! My car is sort of undriveable right now because I need that hex nut, so if anyone knows the size that would be awesome.

G-MaC!
05-24-2011, 11:56 AM
Just a heads up for anyone that is going to be grinding down the rears. It is really not that hard to do, it took about twenty minutes. But I suggest you get a spray bottle and spray the strut very often because it gets very hot quickly and you do not want to melt the bushing.

ryan02
06-16-2011, 02:42 PM
OP:what size wheels/tires are you running? they look pretty big/wide

iDom
06-16-2011, 02:52 PM
16x8 +38
225/50/16

ryan02
06-17-2011, 11:21 AM
Thats what I have too. Do you know if theres any wheel setup on aspec suspension that you can run 235's or bigger?

Like 235/45/17 +35 maybe?

iDom
06-20-2011, 11:58 AM
Well.. I have the stock camber arms in the rear and the drivers side rear inside tire wall rubs on the inside when in the air but it doesn't touch while it's at it normal height on the ground... & mine are 16x8 225's.. I would say it could be done with camber, but just strait up, probably not.. Also, 17" rims and a 45 series tire is pretty far from overall OEM wheel diameter.. I ran the tire size calculator on what you plan to run and it's a difference of 4.39%.. Your speedometer will be off by quite a bit.

Even taking in to the consideration the offset would be +35, mine is +38, so i'd be willing to bet you'd definitely rub.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
06-20-2011, 11:34 PM
Well.. I have the stock camber arms in the rear and the drivers side rear inside tire wall rubs on the inside when in the air but it doesn't touch while it's at it normal height on the ground... & mine are 16x8 225's.. I would say it could be done with camber, but just strait up, probably not.. Also, 17" rims and a 45 series tire is pretty far from overall OEM wheel diameter.. I ran the tire size calculator on what you plan to run and it's a difference of 4.39%.. Your speedometer will be off by quite a bit.

Even taking in to the consideration the offset would be +35, mine is +38, so i'd be willing to bet you'd definitely rub.

really?
i ran the tire calculator and 225/45/17 is only
0.43% bigger than stock

my 2004 ep3 stock is 205/55/16

my plan was to get 17x7.5 225/45/17

iDom
06-21-2011, 08:43 AM
Are you sure that's what OEM tire size is? I didn't know you had an 04. The 04-05 have different wheels but I thought the overall size was the same. The 02-03 OEM tire size is 195/60/15 and based on that input in to the calculator, that's what came up with the 4.39% difference.

ryan02
06-23-2011, 10:34 AM
I meant to say 235/40/17 on a 17x8 inch wheel..+35 offset, maybe +38..not sure. itd be great if it worked though!

NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-04-2011, 05:26 PM
yessir stock 04-05 is 205/55/16 i double checked

and also if anyone wants to buy the stock ep3 bushings...for the rear struts instead of grinding them
i have a couple

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s233/NEO_FOLLOWER2/ep3bushings.jpg

both in picture are brand new...one of them i just opened because i thought i was going to be able to push the aspec bushings out
but i couldnt
and i couldnt leave the car overnight without struts cause i needed to drive it
so i just shaved it. wish i coulda waited and just used these bushings instead of shaving:mfrown:

well if anyone is interested let me know
ill probably still have them

NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-04-2011, 05:31 PM
idom you should add the part number for the rear strut bushing in the 1st post, in case someone wants to go that route instead of grinding. you can use my picture also

i notice more and more that people are choosing to go aspec because hfp is discontinued

iDom
08-05-2011, 10:28 AM
idom you should add the part number for the rear strut bushing in the 1st post, in case someone wants to go that route instead of grinding. you can use my picture also

i notice more and more that people are choosing to go aspec because hfp is discontinued

Will do. Where did you go to get them pressed out and these ones pressed in?

si03
08-05-2011, 10:35 AM
Will do. Where did you go to get them pressed out and these ones pressed in?

He ended up grinding it down they were never pressed in.

iDom
08-05-2011, 11:26 AM
Well.. I know it would take some heavy ass machinery to get them out. That's why I was asking.

si03
08-05-2011, 11:46 AM
Well.. I know it would take some heavy ass machinery to get them out. That's why I was asking.

What torque wrench would you recommend to use for this application ? I know nothing about torque wrench's so any input would be great a help.
I'll be picking up the A-spec sometime soon and I'd like to have all tools on hand for when the time comes.
Thanks.

iDom
08-05-2011, 11:48 AM
What torque wrench would you recommend to use for this application ? I know nothing about torque wrench's so any input would be great a help.
I'll be picking up the A-spec sometime soon and I'd like to have all tools on hand for when the time comes.
Thanks.

I'd say you'd be fine with any decently reputable brand like Craftsman or Kobalt even. I don't even have any tools besides he basics (Flathead, Philips, Hammer.... lol) My step brother and I and quite a few of my friends (who are mechanics) are all also in to cars so I always go to their places to do stuff to my car.

si03
08-05-2011, 11:49 AM
Well.. I know it would take some heavy ass machinery to get them out. That's why I was asking.

Could you also list the tools you used for this install ?
I have some tools laying around but I'm not sure if I have the right ones and which tools I'll be needing that I don't currently have.
thanks

iDom
08-05-2011, 11:55 AM
Nothing special, what I can think of off the top of my head is..
-Full metric socket set (normal sockets and deep sockets)
-Full metric wrench set
-3 & 6 inch socket extension
-Torque Wrench
-Breaker bar helps

si03
08-05-2011, 11:55 AM
I'd say you'd be fine with any decently reputable brand like Craftsman or Kobalt even. I don't even have any tools besides he basics (Flathead, Philips, Hammer.... lol) My step brother and I and quite a few of my friends (who are mechanics) are all also in to cars so I always go to their places to do stuff to my car.

I searched online for torque wrench's and there's 3/8 1/4 and 1/2. I'm lost as to which I need and also you mention on what to torque the nuts too.
How do you know what you are torquing the nuts too on the wrench it's self ?
I never used a torque wrench before so I hope you can understand my question. I'm a noob sorry

iDom
08-05-2011, 12:10 PM
It's okay, you gotta find out somehow. I feel confident in saying that none of us came out of the womb with any sort of knowledge on this stuff. I myself don't know a lot, just the basics.. (I'd like to think so, anyway) BUT... That's the socket drive size. Look at the back of a socket, there will be a square shape. That's what those sizes are referring to. Those vary, 3/8's, 1/4, and 1/2 an inch. You have to get the torque wrench that will match up with what sockets you have.

Here is a video that will help you understand how they work, I just found one real quick on youtube, it's kinda corny with the music but it works..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgwwOJ0B964

There are different styles of wrenches though.. Some read Newton Meters (NM) and some read Foot Pounds (LB-FT) and some have both as the one in the video does.. (You'll mostly find Foot Pound ones though, so no worry) The specs given are in Foot Pounds, so set it with LB-FT on your torque wrench. When the torque wrench clicks, that means it's tightened to whatever you set it at.

Also, howstuffworks.com is bomb diggidy on answering any other questions you might have.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-05-2011, 11:26 PM
Well.. I know it would take some heavy ass machinery to get them out. That's why I was asking.

im not sure but shg_easye did it.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2748948&page=37

if you scroll down and look at the picture of the torn down suspension the dampener/shock(whatever) has the bushing removed.
so it is doable. probably have to take it to a shop with a big press to do it.

mine are for sale!!!!! let me know if anyone wants them! come to me before going to the oem sites for them lol!

NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-05-2011, 11:29 PM
let me also add that...a breaker bar is almost necessary to do a coilover install...i dont think i'd be able to do one without one. there's always that one bolt that just wont budge without a breaker bar.

ryan02
08-08-2011, 09:43 AM
What torque wrench would you recommend to use for this application ? I know nothing about torque wrench's so any input would be great a help.
I'll be picking up the A-spec sometime soon and I'd like to have all tools on hand for when the time comes.
Thanks.

Hand-o-meter

polymorphic
08-19-2011, 12:00 PM
Just ordered myself an A-Spec kit and all the bolts and shizzle. One thing that I would like a clear answer on is popping out the a-spec bushings and the difficulty inherent. I know some have done it. Is it really possible with a rubber mallet? Did you pound with just the mallet directly on the bushing or using some sort of rod?

NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-21-2011, 03:51 PM
Just ordered myself an A-Spec kit and all the bolts and shizzle. One thing that I would like a clear answer on is popping out the a-spec bushings and the difficulty inherent. I know some have done it. Is it really possible with a rubber mallet? Did you pound with just the mallet directly on the bushing or using some sort of rod?

i doubt youll be able to do it with a rubber mallet...i tried using a vice bench
i think you'll need an actually big 100 ton bushing press

i have the bushings for sale !!!

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?65534-ESMM-and-Rear-STOCK-Camber-kit

polymorphic
08-21-2011, 06:16 PM
Hey NEO, I'm actually fr3netic from honda-tech and I was going to ask how much you wanted for them and where you are in Tejas. :mbiggrin: I might use my .45 to get them out.


i doubt youll be able to do it with a rubber mallet...i tried using a vice bench
i think you'll need an actually big 100 ton bushing press

i have the bushings for sale !!!

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?65534-ESMM-and-Rear-STOCK-Camber-kit

NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-21-2011, 08:17 PM
im in austin

more like pflugerville but still austin.

if you can pick them up you're welcome to come.

or i can just ship them to you. im sure itll be cheaper than buying it from honda.

polymorphic
09-01-2011, 05:19 PM
Well, after attempting to pound out the bushings I've concluded there is no way in hell they are even budging! So, I guess I'm shavin' 'em.

Also, if anyone is interested, the part numbers for the a-spec are:

Kit: 08W60-S6M-200A
RF: 08w60-s6m-2m00-e1
LF: 08w60-s6m-2m00-f1
RR: 08w60-s6m-2m00-g1
RL: 08w60-s6m-2m00-h1

polymorphic
09-08-2011, 11:52 AM
This guide is *almost* complete. I think it should be updated with a requirement for at least 2 people to do the rears. I tried myself this week to do it, but couldn't get the a-spec strut into the LCA boot/slot... whatever it's called. Fitting it up into the strut tower was easy. 4 hours later I thankfully got the original strut back on, but not before gashing my finger and cutting 3 others and completely draining my body of energy, LOL. The bolt was easy to get out, no weathering or anything, but the a-spec strut is about 2 inches longer than the original and I could not extend the LCA low enough myself to get the strut in. I can't even get it close enough to verify that the bushings are ground down enough. Hopefully it goes more smoothly this weekend with a buddy helping. To me this is not an easy install. I would say it's probably *easier* than rebuilding a transmission or removing your engine, but simple and easy it ain't! :)

NEO_FOLLOWER2
09-08-2011, 07:02 PM
This guide is *almost* complete. I think it should be updated with a requirement for at least 2 people to do the rears. I tried myself this week to do it, but couldn't get the a-spec strut into the LCA boot/slot... whatever it's called. Fitting it up into the strut tower was easy. 4 hours later I thankfully got the original strut back on, but not before gashing my finger and cutting 3 others and completely draining my body of energy, LOL. The bolt was easy to get out, no weathering or anything, but the a-spec strut is about 2 inches longer than the original and I could not extend the LCA low enough myself to get the strut in. I can't even get it close enough to verify that the bushings are ground down enough. Hopefully it goes more smoothly this weekend with a buddy helping. To me this is not an easy install. I would say it's probably *easier* than rebuilding a transmission or removing your engine, but simple and easy it ain't! :)

did mine on a lift....that does help alot
if you're doing this kind of stuff at home without a lift...you should always have a friend, just for safety in case the jack moves or something they can pull you out

polymorphic
09-10-2011, 04:23 PM
Hey guys, just wanted to say I got my a-specs installed today and really appreciate this writeup. Thanks, iDom. Aside from the tierod ends being a f'n nightmare to remove and having to grind the crap out of the rear bushings before they'd fit, it was smooth, but still a bit tough. I had to actually grind my bushings just shy of where the metal insert meets the rubber bushing and they still had to be hammered in to fit. 1.5mm on each side was much too little. My right axle popped out, but we got it back in after tightening the zip ties. I didn't have any weathering on my bolts, but I've had my baby in a garage for most of its life, so I guess that helps. Now it's alignment time. Other than that it is a really nice upgrade for the price. Feels stiffer and has less roll. :)

polymorphic
09-17-2011, 07:27 PM
For posterity and those who may be interested, here is my '05 a week after install. So far it is a very nice dd upgrade, especially if you need to replace your oem's anyways. Performance and fun factor are both impressive.

http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/af223/polymorphic1/si_rightside.jpg
http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/af223/polymorphic1/si_fl.jpg
http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/af223/polymorphic1/si_rl.jpg
http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/af223/polymorphic1/si_leftside.jpg
http://i1010.photobucket.com/albums/af223/polymorphic1/si_fr-1.jpg

iDom
09-29-2011, 03:01 PM
This guide is *almost* complete. I think it should be updated with a requirement for at least 2 people to do the rears.

As I said, there is no I in "A-SPEC" ;)

G-MaC!
10-11-2011, 07:17 PM
iDom, I see you are running 16x8 225/50/16's. Looks real beefy, did you roll your fenders?

Aklass
10-12-2011, 06:10 AM
I want to do this and press out the bushings, One of the guys at my shop says he can press out the bushings for me.. I'm hoping the press can do it

polymorphic
10-12-2011, 07:50 AM
I want to do this and press out the bushings, One of the guys at my shop says he can press out the bushings for me.. I'm hoping the press can do it

Maybe it was my inexperience grinding or my cheap grinder, but it took me probably 2 to 3 hours to grind mine down about 1/4 inch on each side and was most unpleasant. Wish I knew someone who could have pressed mine out.

iDom
10-13-2011, 02:18 PM
iDom, I see you are running 16x8 225/50/16's. Looks real beefy, did you roll your fenders?

No I did not. You can practically run anything and not have to worry about rubbing because the drop isn't as severe as most people would set their adjustable coilovers at. I have no problems at all.

Aklass
10-13-2011, 03:14 PM
we have a 20 ton press at our shop, and since I work there and know the guys, they said to bring it in and try.. i just owe them lunch if they can get them out and new ones in

G-MaC!
10-15-2011, 11:15 AM
No I did not. You can practically run anything and not have to worry about rubbing because the drop isn't as severe as most people would set their adjustable coilovers at. I have no problems at all.


I may have just been sold on a new setup. Haha, I have been trying to find proof of people running 16x8's without a roll. Yayyyyy for a conservative drop haha.

poeticfinesse21
12-10-2011, 12:48 AM
hey would this work to press out those bushings?

http://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-40910-Control/dp/B000SIAM4S

Aklass
12-11-2011, 10:56 AM
hey would this work to press out those bushings?

http://www.amazon.com/Specialty-Products-Company-40910-Control/dp/B000SIAM4S
I used the 17 ton shop press with a pipe and socket, worked like a charm

phoryu2nv
04-03-2012, 04:26 PM
sorry to bump an old thread, but can anyone confirm that the ep3 bushings fit onto the aspec rear strut. Thanks!

iDom
04-03-2012, 04:30 PM
sorry to bump an old thread, but can anyone confirm that the ep3 bushings fit onto the aspec rear strut. Thanks!

Yes. Search this thread. Read back a few pages and you'll see someone did it. You'll need a press to do it though. I do t know the details on that, so you'll have to look.

RhINoX^
04-04-2012, 10:03 AM
Ep3 bushings fit.... But grinding isn`t that bad. Not big of a job as I thought.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-04-2012, 09:31 PM
i still have those bushings for sale if anyone wants them...it would be cheaper than buying it from honda...they're brand new
FOR ANYONE READING THIS THREAD IN THE FUTURE!....PM ME! I WILL PROBABLY STILL HAVE THEM!

...its hard trying to get rid of these bushings because no one needs them..

ill do $6+ Shipping and paypal...

phoryu2nv
04-09-2012, 07:40 PM
What camber kit do you guys recommend? I was thinking Ingall or SPC. Also do I order the kit for Si or RSX? or are they the same?

iDom
04-09-2012, 07:53 PM
No eBay.. It will rust and seize up in less than a year. You should be good otherwise.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
04-15-2012, 07:48 PM
What camber kit do you guys recommend? I was thinking Ingall or SPC. Also do I order the kit for Si or RSX? or are they the same?

they're...the same i believe...if you look on clubrsx it will list what cars the kits are compatible with

im running spc in the front and hardrace in the rear

the ones i got were...front are bolts...and rear is the arm

with 0 camber in the front and -0.5 camber in the rear

let me emphasize...i will sell you those bushings for a lot cheaper than honda will lol so PM me...ill probably still have them because they're not a really desired item

tlikethedrink
02-06-2013, 05:21 PM
Ordered my aspec today! Finally, took a little saving. I mentioned I had seen crsx members saying they had paid $590 and they price matched!

Parts list so far:
A spec+ 19mm Rsx-s sway & bushings($20, would have liked a 22mm but I thought it was a good deal)+ going to buy tie rod ends and nuts soon

Wants: 17x7.5 konig feathers in silver+ 225/45 tires; any recommendations for a fair priced tires? I would prefer from discount tire; I like and use thier lay-o-way system. Plus that's where I'm shopping for wheels.

Would 17x8s fit well? Tire size? Anything else I should install while I'm down there? I'm not into urethane bushings...

iDom
02-07-2013, 07:43 AM
Ordered my aspec today! Finally, took a little saving. I mentioned I had seen crsx members saying they had paid $590 and they price matched!

Parts list so far:
A spec+ 19mm Rsx-s sway & bushings($20, would have liked a 22mm but I thought it was a good deal)+ going to buy tie rod ends and nuts soon

Wants: 17x7.5 konig feathers in silver+ 225/45 tires; any recommendations for a fair priced tires? I would prefer from discount tire; I like and use thier lay-o-way system. Plus that's where I'm shopping for wheels.

Would 17x8s fit well? Tire size? Anything else I should install while I'm down there? I'm not into urethane bushings...

You'll be fine. I have 16x8's +38 with 225/50 tires on it and +/- 0 camber all around. The drop isn't slammed so you should be perfectly fine. Overall wheel diameter should be about the same as OEM, if you get your sizes right. My set up is just a smidge "oversized" and there's still no issue.

tlikethedrink
02-07-2013, 04:37 PM
You'll be fine. I have 16x8's +38 with 225/50 tires on it and +/- 0 camber all around. The drop isn't slammed so you should be perfectly fine. Overall wheel diameter should be about the same as OEM, if you get your sizes right. My set up is just a smidge "oversized" and there's still no issue.

thanks, ive been craigslist shopping, for 17s to save a little cash and try and install all at once. theres a guy with some enkei rs-5s on "new" 235/45/17s. ive looked and all i can find for this rim is +40 offset in 17x7 when searching on retailers that used to carry them. the wheels arent too bad looking. but i the tires will probaly be too big right?

tlikethedrink
02-12-2013, 05:25 PM
Just received mine from the fed ex man! I've been looking into going with aftermarket tie rod ends. Autozone and the likes sell them for ~$25 complete with hardware and pins.

iDom
02-12-2013, 06:59 PM
Just received mine from the fed ex man! I've been looking into going with aftermarket tie rod ends. Autozone and the likes sell them for ~$25 complete with hardware and pins.

I get Honda parts for cost from a guy I know that works at a Honda dealership. I paid about $20 for them back when I did it. I'm big on OEM stuff. Even at $30 a piece, they're not that expensive.

tlikethedrink
02-25-2013, 10:48 PM
Went with the Moog brand. Much beefier than stock!

b_ron
02-26-2013, 08:16 AM
Do these drop the same height as the DC5R suspension?

tlikethedrink
02-26-2013, 02:50 PM
Do these drop the same height as the DC5R suspension?

supposed to be pretty close

tlikethedrink
03-02-2013, 01:51 PM
MOOG vs Stock tie rod ends...
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/aranciors/3F54C660-C75C-4FF0-A429-4B7EE300CA9A-2044-0000013BE14C0051.jpg

Eddie Murphy
03-12-2013, 02:46 PM
Nice thread and GREAT INFO, thanks.

Hasbro
03-12-2013, 03:52 PM
MOOG vs Stock tie rod ends...
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e285/aranciors/3F54C660-C75C-4FF0-A429-4B7EE300CA9A-2044-0000013BE14C0051.jpg

Seaking of Moogs and Zirk nipples.... is there an actual thread in the main body or do you just self thread the suckers?

poeticfinesse21
03-12-2013, 05:31 PM
When I got my moog tie rod ends, you had to screw in the bleeder valves yourself.

tlikethedrink
03-14-2013, 06:56 AM
When I got my moog tie rod ends, you had to screw in the bleeder valves yourself.

Yes but they're already threaded... Just screws in.

tlikethedrink
03-14-2013, 06:58 AM
Anyone run the aspec rear sway? I read it was like 32mm!?!

Eddie Murphy
03-17-2013, 02:51 PM
Why replace the tie rod ends? and do you replace with honda or acura part?
I can get the tie ends at my local advance auto BUT what part do I need to get?

AND what spring and strut comes with the A-Spec kit?

DA9_GSR
03-17-2013, 03:29 PM
Why replace the tie rod ends? and do you replace with honda or acura part?
I can get the tie ends at my local advance auto BUT what part do I need to get?

AND what spring and strut comes with the A-Spec kit?

"A Spec" is a handling package that was offered only on the RSX. It fits our Civic's by using RSX tie rod ends (our are too small) and shaving the rear lower shock bushings.
The A Spec handling kit comes with springs and shocks for all four corners. They are the closest thing you'll get to JDM DC5 ITR springs and shocks.

Eddie Murphy
03-17-2013, 05:16 PM
Thanks DA9_GSR ...
SO can I go to Advance Auto and buy 02-06 RSX-S Type Tie rod ends?

tlikethedrink
03-17-2013, 06:22 PM
Thanks DA9_GSR ...
SO can I go to Advance Auto and buy 02-06 RSX-S Type Tie rod ends?

Yup. I can say I vouch the Moog brand- if that means anything... The pic shows difference in size.

Eddie Murphy
03-18-2013, 08:37 PM
Thanks tlikethedrink...

So if I go with the A-Spec can I use:
Moog Tie Rod End Part No. ES80995 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_tie-rod-end-moog_21880449-p?searchTerm=tie+rod+end)
?

tlikethedrink
03-18-2013, 09:30 PM
Np dude. Don't remember part no. - just ask for tie rod ends at o'reillys for an rsx-s.

Eddie Murphy
03-19-2013, 09:45 AM
Thanks, this is the LINK for that part at Advance Auto: Moog Tie Rod End Part No. ES80995 (http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_tie-rod-end-moog_21880449-p?searchTerm=tie+rod+end)

poeticfinesse21
03-19-2013, 12:40 PM
Amazon has them for cheaper, $35 shipped for 2 RSX Moog tie rod ends:
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-ES80995-Tie-Rod-End/dp/B001FE7I0U/ref=au_pf_pfg_s?ie=UTF8&Make=Acura%7C58&Model=RSX%7C747&Year=2002%7C2002&carId=002&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive

Eddie Murphy
04-23-2013, 07:17 PM
I THINK MY MECHANIC DID SOMETHING WRONG.
He installed the A-Spec's.
After picking up my car today I notice an uneven drop from left to right.
The front drivers side and the back passenger sides are higher than the other sides.
Any help would be appreciated, thanks.

b_ron
04-24-2013, 04:49 PM
by how much? maybe the suspension needs time to settle in.

Eddie Murphy
04-25-2013, 07:20 AM
by how much? maybe the suspension needs time to settle in.
Only a bit, BUT I just did a front and rear alignment and now it's all good. I do have a very slight pull to the right but the alignment shop said it should work itself out. What do you think about that?
THANKS.

Boostedtaco
04-25-2013, 10:11 AM
would a 2006 a-spec suspension work on a 2002 ep3? I noticed there were a 02-04 and 05-06 a-spec suspensions on ebay.

Eddie Murphy
04-27-2013, 06:23 AM
Get A-Spec here:
http://www.curryacuraparts.com/pro.html

iDom
04-29-2013, 12:23 PM
Get A-Spec here:
http://www.curryacuraparts.com/pro.html

That's where I got mine from too, except it was linked via eBay.

EDIT: Added to Front Page. I see some of my pics have been taken down from the uploader site.. I have them saved on my external at home, I'll have to re-upload them through a different site and get the broken pics fixed.

Eddie Murphy
04-29-2013, 02:38 PM
Thanks a lot for this post!!!
I don't have much experience with ep3 suspension and I wanted to know if you had any issues with wheel alignment and what kind of new tires to get...???...
I have 215/45zr/17's on Konig 17 wheels and after A-spec install/ alignment rsx end links and new ball joints the car pulls to the left. The alignment shop says new ball joints will do that but it should work itself out, your input please. thanks.

iDom
05-02-2013, 10:21 AM
Thanks a lot for this post!!!
I don't have much experience with ep3 suspension and I wanted to know if you had any issues with wheel alignment and what kind of new tires to get...???...
I have 215/45zr/17's on Konig 17 wheels and after A-spec install/ alignment rsx end links and new ball joints the car pulls to the left. The alignment shop says new ball joints will do that but it should work itself out, your input please. thanks.

In my experience, general mechanic shops/alignment service shops are all a bunch of fucks. There's no way to put it nicely. I had to take my car back to the same place twice because the person didn't know what the hell they were doing. I asked for a refund the first time, and after a long debate and complaining, they just wouldn't budge so I gave them hell until they did my alignment properly. At first, he said my front camber wasn't adjustable and that I need "special" bolts. I told him, no, I DO have those "special" bolts, and they're called eccentric camber bolts. Long story short, after multiple times, they finally got it right.. My word of advice is to just make sure you look over the before and after alignment readout. I got my alignment completely zero'd out..

+/- 0 Camber
+/- 0 Toe
with 225/50/16 wheel setup

Usually, people need to give their alignment negative camber to make it "fit" and not rub, but if your car can run your wheel setup with zero'd out alignment specs, then you're pretty much gravy for whatever camber adjustments you want (as long as the wheel setup remains the same). If you're just DD'ing, I don't see any reason not to run anything but 0's all around. If you want it to be a little aggressive, just go for -1.0 in the front, and -0.5 in the rear.

Eddie Murphy
06-01-2013, 05:56 PM
Again, great info ep3 fam...thanks a lot.
ok, I meant to say it pulls a lil to the right...
What are those eccentric camber bolts you spoke of?
Should I pick up some Eibach, Ingalls, or SPC camber bolts?

iDom
06-10-2013, 06:03 AM
Again, great info ep3 fam...thanks a lot.
ok, I meant to say it pulls a lil to the right...
What are those eccentric camber bolts you spoke of?
Should I pick up some Eibach, Ingalls, or SPC camber bolts?

Any of those should work really. The eccentric camber bolts have lobes on them, almost like a cam shaft and they allow you to adjust the camber that way, because of the McPherson type of strut design our cars have.

Eddie Murphy
07-22-2013, 09:03 PM
Thanks again...
Some of your pics are gone...

danito321
07-23-2013, 07:28 AM
Wish I would have saved for this instead of my racelands. They're great the only thing is I decided I don't like being too low. When i get some more monies I will probably get a specs.

syncmaster
07-29-2013, 06:45 AM
Thanks again...
Some of your pics are gone...

Agreed - nice writeup, but is there any way to get all the pics back up?

havok2003
11-05-2013, 10:36 PM
It's been said that you guys have used the cam eccentric bolts for the front camber. Is it possible to use pillow ball mounts on the A-Spec kit?

PRODIUS
11-18-2013, 07:56 PM
Great thread guys, just installed a JDM ITR suspension with all this great info!
Thanks EPHatch!

b_ron
11-18-2013, 10:03 PM
Pics?

iDom
11-23-2013, 10:49 AM
Hey guys, sorry for my long term absence.. I haven't been on the forums in quite some time. I had to relocate all the old images on spare hard drives and upload them again. All the pictures should be up and running and good to go again, though.

Take care, EPHatchers.

88fox05si
11-26-2013, 06:58 PM
I used some of the info to help me with my install of the A spec kit. So far I have only the front dampers on. That axle is a PAIN when it pops out! I'm waiting to do the rears next week after Thanksgiving. I'm looking forward to driving my car on decent suspension again.

iDom
11-27-2013, 12:28 AM
I used some of the info to help me with my install of the A spec kit. So far I have only the front dampers on. That axle is a PAIN when it pops out! I'm waiting to do the rears next week after Thanksgiving. I'm looking forward to driving my car on decent suspension again.

You'll enjoy it. It's great performance wise, looks wise (add an inch drop), stiffer, but still comfortable. It will definitely pass the girlfriend test. It's also very reliable. OEM products are the way to go. Also, unlike adjustable coilovers, you won't have to worry about them being uneven or 'too low', so it won't put unnecessary stress on the shocks. Good to go.

Eddie Murphy
11-27-2013, 07:21 AM
Has anyone installed A-Spec and then changed out the springs to get a lil lower. I was thinking about throwing on some lowering springs to drop it a lil lower. What springs are good to use to get like another inch maybe inch and a half drop?

iDom
11-29-2013, 12:15 PM
Has anyone installed A-Spec and then changed out the springs to get a lil lower. I was thinking about throwing on some lowering springs to drop it a lil lower. What springs are good to use to get like another inch maybe inch and a half drop?

If you just installed them, give it some time.. They'll settle. I personally think a whole additional inch would be too much. It'll definitely compromise the longevity of your shocks as well because it will put a constant excess load upon them.. Just my opinion.

method:
11-29-2013, 10:21 PM
I feel the opposite of these guys complaining about the drop. I can't wait to have suspension travel. I just picked up a 2005 civic Si that is lowered on Rokkor coilovers. Fuck. That's all I can say. I planned on changing the suspension when I bought the car but it is laughable how horrible the car feels. Like I am afraid for my life doing 5 miles an hour just to move the car to work on it. The good news is I just ordered the 200A Aspec kit, DC5 tie rod ends, civic lower strut bushings ( if I need decide to use the existing EP3 suspension...) and ES bushing kit. I have Aluminum DC5R front control arms and am debating upgrading to DC5R rear suspension also. Are the bushings the same size for the DC5R rear suspension components? Meaning could I press the ES bushings into the DC5R suspension components? I'm almost 100% sure the front control arms will accept the ES bushings but I'm unsure about the rear. If they are compatible I am going to make the switch and pick up DC5R axels/sway bar also. Are DC5R and RSX-S wheel bearings the same size? I should probably replace them while I have it all apart. I'm looking forward to restoring this car, any help is appreciated.

method:
12-02-2013, 01:16 PM
Bumping for help.

tlikethedrink
12-02-2013, 03:55 PM
Has anyone installed A-Spec and then changed out the springs to get a lil lower. I was thinking about throwing on some lowering springs to drop it a lil lower. What springs are good to use to get like another inch maybe inch and a half drop?

I ran RSX-S eibach sportlines. Which are supposed to be pretty modest, but my car was way low. Ride went to shit after about a year or so when the shocks pooped out.

Eddie Murphy
12-09-2013, 10:10 PM
OK, thanks. I've only had them installed for about 13K miles. Maybe Eibach Pro Kit, they only drop an inch. Do you think they would work out good, if not I'm going to just go with a meatier tire. I currently run 215/45/17 40 offset. Can I fit 225/50/17's ?

Eddie Murphy
12-09-2013, 10:11 PM
Is it a good idea to go with the meatier tires? Will they fit?

Eddie Murphy
12-11-2013, 01:08 PM
I bought my A-Spec from CurryAcura (http://www.curryacuraparts.com/pro.html) and it says that they are for 2002-2006. I have heard that there are 2 kits. One from 2002-2003 and 2004-2006. Which one's are these?

method:
12-16-2013, 02:56 PM
order 200A, the 02-04 (200) has been discontinued.

chrisbtsc
12-17-2013, 01:44 PM
i still have those bushings for sale if anyone wants them...it would be cheaper than buying it from honda...they're brand new
FOR ANYONE READING THIS THREAD IN THE FUTURE!....PM ME! I WILL PROBABLY STILL HAVE THEM!

...its hard trying to get rid of these bushings because no one needs them..

ill do $6+ Shipping and paypal...

Do you still have those bushings for sale?

Eddie Murphy
12-18-2013, 10:59 AM
order 200A, the 02-04 (200) has been discontinued.

So these are the 05-06 then, right??? Thanks.

method:
12-18-2013, 05:22 PM
Yes.

88fox05si
12-24-2013, 11:01 PM
I just finished with the rear shocks. They weren't too difficult to install, but I needed an additional jack to get the bolt holes to line up.

A short trip around the block tells me that the car feels much better than stock.

Eddie Murphy
01-15-2014, 11:20 PM
So when I change up the tie rod ends to rsx s type do I use s type ball joints? what year ball joints?

Eddie Murphy
05-08-2014, 06:29 PM
After settling a bit here is what it looks like now:
https://scontent-a-iad.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t31.0-8/10259060_10202678957668107_4039605692014925009_o.j pg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/t31.0-8/10258433_10202678959868162_5673361280622592555_o.j pg

dirtyMETHOD
05-08-2014, 10:27 PM
^^^ looking good Eddie

Eddie Murphy
05-08-2014, 11:05 PM
^^^ looking good Eddie

Thanks Elyson... and I love me some A-Spec's...

2004ep3hatch
05-11-2014, 02:22 PM
My A-Spec drop

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/alpine192/e9148ff1329b6d1d363355bced1bab10.jpg

Eddie Murphy
05-19-2014, 11:22 PM
My A-Spec drop

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a3/alpine192/e9148ff1329b6d1d363355bced1bab10.jpg

Looking good Tommy...

b_ron
07-17-2014, 09:58 PM
Why is a new jam nut to adjust the toe necessary? (90301-S5A-003)
Can't you just use the existing nut that's already on the car?

jjr007
07-24-2014, 12:20 AM
I like your new paint job Tommy! I had to put some aspecs in my car in March, as I found out at inspection time that my Eibach Pro kit front springs were both broken (damn N.E. potholes) I got to give them a good workout in June on the Tail of the Dragon. Sweet setup is all I have to say.

VividSI
07-29-2014, 05:50 AM
alright fellow EP's, I have read through this thread and I'm considering swapping out my suspension again, I have had OEM, HFP, Tokico Blue, and now my current setup is yellow koni with HFP springs and they are starting to make noise when I turn the wheel, my shop says the front shock is moving around and its been over 50K so they probably could be replaced anyway, I can't believe an A-Spec kit is even still available to order at this point and I was considering ordering a new Mugen SS kit until I read this thread and if its still available I could get 2 A-Spec kits for the price of the Mugen kit.

I do have some concerns though, people are talking about needing RSX-S tie rods and a new EP rear bushing??? this may not matter but my car is equipped with a complete RSX-S brake upgrade, drive shafts/hubs.

VividSI
07-29-2014, 06:52 AM
I may have answered some of my own questions because page one of this thread becomes the newest post depending on whether you are logged in or not. very confusing.

ep_steve
08-02-2014, 08:20 AM
so after months of riding on blow stock struts with junk2 sleeves, i decided to go the aspec route.
i ordered the suspension saturday from curry and received it on tuesday ($715 after shipping)
i also ordered all of the necessary parts, along with the rear ep3 bushings from honda automotive ($125 after shipping)
had a buddy of mine press out the rsx bushings and press in the ep3 bushings, why not do it right? (gave him $50)after a couple hours of work, we got the suspension on last night. with the exception of a few roadblocks, the install went relatively smooth.
imo, the drop is pretty much perfect height (205/55/16), and based on what I've read it'll settle a bit more
i noticed the handling improvement immediately, even without getting an alignment. the steering is pretty straight and i haven't noticed any pulling to one side or another, so i plan on giving it a week or two to allow it to settle before getting it aligned.
ill update with some pictures in a few days.
a big thanks goes to everybody who contributed to this forum, i wouldn't be able to do it without you guys.

chrisbtsc
08-04-2014, 02:32 PM
I love mine, and I'm running 215/45 - 17 and that added grip is great. Might go to 225 next.

VividSI
08-13-2014, 11:45 AM
I'm glad I got the kit why I still could, I wonder what the difference is for this 05-06 part number. surely they changed something right? ride height or shock?

Eddie Murphy
08-31-2014, 06:57 AM
I love mine, and I'm running 215/45 - 17 and that added grip is great. Might go to 225 next.

A-Spec's, ES bushings all around, 225/45/17, and Mfactory LSD have grip covered really well over here. + 1million for A-Spec!

method:
09-02-2014, 09:57 AM
I'm glad I got the kit why I still could, I wonder what the difference is for this 05-06 part number. surely they changed something right? ride height or shock?

THe 05/06 RSX has reverse wound springs and different spring rates.

Dreadknotz1025
11-09-2014, 08:30 PM
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Is it possible to still find the A-Spec suspension NEW???

, am in need for a rebuild of my suspension parts.

Push come to shove might have to settle with a coilover kit :mrolleyes:

usedep3
11-09-2014, 09:55 PM
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Is it possible to still find the A-Spec suspension NEW???

, am in need for a rebuild of my suspension parts.

Push come to shove might have to settle with a coilover kit :mrolleyes:

look like it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/02-06-Acura-RSX-A-Spec-Sport-Suspension-Kit-Lowers-vehicle-1-inch-/301343647411?hash=item46297b26b3

Eddie Murphy
01-02-2015, 05:22 PM
BUY A-Spec from AFH: 02-06 RSX-S A-Spec Sport Suspension - 08W60-S6M-200A
Call AFH (603) 634-0641
http://www.afhparts.com/

b_ron
01-03-2015, 01:55 PM
If anyone is wondering the drop, I measured mine before and after the install. I have the DC5R, not the A-Spec.
Front: .625"-.75"
Rear: .5"

You don't need a rear camber kit. Stock camber arms comes to 1.5 degrees on the rear, on the high end of the OEM specs.

Eddie Murphy
01-03-2015, 05:13 PM
If anyone is wondering the drop, I measured mine before and after the install. I have the DC5R, not the A-Spec.
Front: .625"-.75"
Rear: .5"

You don't need a rear camber kit. Stock camber arms comes to 1.5 degrees on the rear, on the high end of the OEM specs.

This doesn't pertain to this thread as they are a different suspension. If this were a thread on the DC5R it would, but it's not which makes your comment invalid. And you say the rear camber is -1.5. Everybody who needs to get additional camber in the rear has to use a camber kit as ours are non adjustable. This just sounds like a bunch of misinformation.

b_ron
01-03-2015, 07:47 PM
This doesn't pertain to this thread as they are a different suspension. If this were a thread on the DC5R it would, but it's not which makes your comment invalid. And you say the rear camber is -1.5. Everybody who needs to get additional camber in the rear has to use a camber kit as ours are non adjustable. This just sounds like a bunch of misinformation.

Everyone has been saying the DC5R suspension has the same drop as the A-Spec. So I just put in what I found, as well as anyone wondering if a camber kit is necessary.

Just putting in my 2 cents... No need to be a negative Nancy.

Hasbro
01-03-2015, 08:08 PM
Hee hee. I've never heard anyone disprove that they aren't one and the same. I do suggest using adjustable camber arms. If you are going to put in nicely balanced A-Specs, it just makes sense to do it right. Thanks for measuring before and after, I've been claiming a max 3/4" drop for years but many say 1". The discrepancy, me thinks, is due to different tire sizes.

b_ron
01-04-2015, 12:16 AM
Could be the tires... or any other suspension parts installed. I'm just glad to be off blown stock suspension after 2.5 years.

tommy
05-06-2015, 08:08 AM
About to order this from Curry (picking it up as it's kind of on the way to work).

It's the 200A part number that looks like it replaced the 200#. But it also looks like that's good to go, and works. Can anyone confirm that? Thanks!

EDIT: Picking up the kit tomorrow most likely and getting it installed on Wed; it'll be nice to finally drive this car and not baby it, as I will have owned it over two weeks by then. I'll finally be able to dump my lemon which has limped along for too long now.

usedep3
05-08-2015, 07:21 AM
Can't be much help with your question but, where are you doing the work? I'm not too far from westwood. I'm in the Valley as well.

tommy
05-11-2015, 06:01 AM
I'm having it done at Total Performance in Mahwah, which is within walking distance of work. They have done some work for me (swapped out the tranny on my CRX last year, and didn't f*ck it up); they more specialize in 4x4 work, but since there is some grinding involved in this swap, I figured that they should be used to it). Have put about 60 miles on it since I bought it, and looking forward to finally daily driving it after the suspension is done. Then it's time to do the passenger actuator, replace broken interior trim pieces before they're all discontinued, etc. Ever any local meets??

tommy
05-15-2015, 06:43 AM
Got my car back yesterday. The ride is a little bit harsher than I was expecting but still not punishing. I'm very happy with the improved handling.

Question: before the alignment, the rear camber was about -1.85 on both sides. They were able to reduce that to -1.75, which is still out of spec, obviously. I just got the car 3 weeks ago, so I don't really know the history, but the rear tires don't appear to be wearing unevenly. But I do want to to this correctly, so I'm guessing that I should be upgrading to adjustable arms to get everything correct? If so, does anyone have a favorite from what's available. Thanks in advance.

Her-Name's-Ally
05-15-2015, 09:04 AM
Ingalls/ spc is good I have T1R which has done me right. Its all the same really. -1.75 is pretty close to where you want to be at any way. Just get the front set to about -3. camber bolts are cheap.

tommy
05-15-2015, 11:22 AM
Thanks. Yeah, I did some digging here and Club EP3 and there are several people in the same boat. Think I'll leave the rear, and see about the fronts. In the meantime, the rotors are damn rusty, so I'll be replacing all four corners soon. Thinking Hawk HPS and some cryo rotors, nothing too exciting. Maybe give Brian at Fastbrakes a call; Wilwoods in red sure are pretty... :nod:

usedep3
05-15-2015, 11:49 AM
glad to hear you're liking the aspecs. Do you have an 02/03 or an 04/05? IIRC, if you have 5 lug you can always upgrade the rotors and calipers for dc5s ones. I'll have an extra set of dc5s calipers available soon if you're interested. I just need to rebuild the ep3r ones and get them painted again.

Her-Name's-Ally
05-15-2015, 12:03 PM
DC5s setup is great. I really enjoyed the difference.

tommy
05-15-2015, 01:35 PM
I've got an 04; just spent 15 mins looking for how to add a siggy, but can't find it. Are siggies allowed as soon as someone joins, or is there a minimum post count that's required?
As for the DC5S calipers, let me know when they're available. I may be interested; am fighting myself right now with trying to keep this as stock as possible, and losing badly.

Her-Name's-Ally
05-15-2015, 05:06 PM
It might be for paying members. I used to have it but not any more.

VividSI
09-04-2015, 07:02 PM
I finally got around to getting my 05-06 A-spec sport suspension kit installed a few weeks ago. My shop shaved down the rear bushings so they would clear, and ordered type-s front tie-rod end links. I got it aligned and it rides pretty good. All of the noises I had with the koni's when turning the steering wheel have been completely eliminated. It is really a sweet ride even though I drive it about once a week. The car has Type-S brakes, drive shafts, and hubs to go with my new setup and feels pretty solid.

skoo74
11-19-2015, 11:28 AM
those that have the A-spec kit more than a year, any sag on the rears? I remember my Tokico/Tein setup started sagging in the rears and hated it lol... how are they holding up now? and ultimately, would you do it again... I'm considering a new suspension setup as close to stock with a slight drop as possible for my DD...

perspective
04-05-2016, 08:49 AM
I have everything ready to install A-spec on my ep3(including the pdf of the a-spec install) and I have a couple of questions:

1. How do I load the suspension with the weight of the vehicle so I can torque if I'm doing the job on jack stands?

In the pdf says NOT to jack on the flat part of the control arm,

2.So I guess with a 2x4 piece in between the jack and the rotor would be ok ? ( I would do this on both sides at the same time so it would load even)

I had a BAD experience when I installed the control arm bushings, I tried loading the vehicle weight with the jack right before the ball joint on the control arm. Well the ball joint popped off the knucle:mcry: on the second one. So I want to be sure how do I properly do this ???????

dirtyduck17
04-06-2016, 01:53 PM
If you're doing this in your garage I would suggest you support the car with some sturdy jack stands by the lift point on the underside of the car and use a floorjack with wood as a buffer. To torque the bolts with the suspension preloaded, use a floor jack with a short section of 2x4. Turn the 2x4 on its long side so it's more stable. When I do this at work I typically let the 2x4 rest on the studs. I never put the full weight of the car rest on the studs. The suspension should only need to compress an inch or two and the jack stands should always be in contact with the lift points. I only put enough weight to be sure that the bolts get tightened with the correct preload.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

perspective
04-07-2016, 06:23 PM
Thanks !

Gasp23
05-28-2017, 04:06 PM
Thanks to this thread I was able to get my Mugen SS installed. They no longer make the Mugen SS for the EP3 so I had to buy the DC5 one and this was exactly what I needed. Thanks again!

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