View Full Version : Heater problem, need help.
Hey guys, I'm having trouble with my '02 Euro Yellow. First off, the car's cooling system works flawlessly. The car gets up to operating temperature within 4 minutes and doesn't overheat at all. My A/C works great, but for some reason my heat doesn't. At idle, I get no heat; the blower fan is just pulling in outside air, or inside air if the circulator is on. When driving, I get a little more heat but not a lot. It's worked perfectly before and used to blow very hot air, but now it's not working. Any suggestions on what to check, would trying to bleed the system of air make sense even though the cooling system works fine?
talonXracer
10-17-2010, 07:34 AM
Check your cabin air filters to make sure they are not clogged full of debris.
I'll go check the filters now.
talonXracer
10-17-2010, 08:27 AM
I reread your problem description, check and make sure the heater cutoff is opening and closing properly. It is located behind the engine, it has the heater hose going to it as well as a arm with a wire/cable attached, make sure that when you change the temperature from cold to hot on the dash heater controls, that the arm moves on the heater cutoff.
also try bleeding the system, make sure the heater control is working first.
Will I be able to see the arm moving easily? Also I cleared the filters of a little debris and some light dirt with no effect.
EDIT: Just checked and the valve works perfectly. Nice smooth motion and did a full range going from hot to cold and back a few times. Still no heat though, so what next? Where do I bleed the system from, radiator cap or is there a pressure valve somewhere?
Mighty_Mouse_Ep
10-17-2010, 10:24 AM
Search for the PDF file of the service manuel. Look in the section for the heating and ac controlls. Our car's have a self diagnostic function and it will give you a trouble shoot code to let you know whats wrong. In the service manuel it gives you the steps on how to trouble shoot the system and lets you know what is wrong.
Link to dl the service manuel
http://www.mediafire.com/?dyjz4tyy23d
I have the service manual PDF already but it doesn't tell you how to bleed the coolant system, nor does it have troubleshooting procedures for this problem.
I don't know about the self-diagnosing but I plugged my code reader into the car and I am 100% trouble free there. Please explain the self-diagnostics to me more.
talonXracer
10-17-2010, 10:52 AM
There is a procedure in the Helms, towrds the front in the service section....
You need to either park on a real steep driveway, or put the front up on tall jackstands or ramps, turn the heat to full hot, start the COLD engine and squeeze and release the upper hose a few times. Now reove the rad cap, fill the rad to the top, squeeze and release the upper hose with one hand while you place your palm over the rad opening. When the coolant is getting hot and seems to be about ready to overflow the rad, install the cap, verify the reservoir is at the proper level.
That should get you some heat.
I have seen just idling on a very steep driveway be enough to bleed the system.
The only ECU interface with the cooling system is the engine temp sensor, so if it isnt overheating then the ECU thinks everything is honky-dory.
until240
10-17-2010, 10:55 AM
I have the service manual PDF already but it doesn't tell you how to bleed the coolant system, nor does it have troubleshooting procedures for this problem.
I don't know about the self-diagnosing but I plugged my code reader into the car and I am 100% trouble free there. Please explain the self-diagnostics to me more.
actually the fsm DOES tell you how to do all the things you mentioned. i would tell you the exact page numbers, but i don't have the fsm in front of me.
and is your radiator fan running? if not, the problem lies with your fan switch.
The fans work fine, I just ran out to get coolant so once the car cools down I have it parked up on an incline so I'll try to bleed the system. I can't see the fill marks on the reserve coolant tank though, nor can I tell if there's anything in there right now...still no overheating problems.
talonXracer
10-17-2010, 11:55 AM
The reservoir is a pain to see, I shine a light thru the grill and look at the backside of the reservoir that is facing the engine, if there is coolant in there it shows up very well that way, it is just a pain contorting to see.
I was trying to do the opposite, looking through the grille with the light in the engine bay! Didn't work very well, obviously. Thanks for the tip.
i had the same problem i guess..
-no water in oil og vice versa
-no leaks
-fan works
-radiator and expancion tank is full
-no water inside the car
-every other fuction works, fan speed, placement of air, and so on
Do coolant flow into the heater core and back into the engine? if so, have you looked at the montor that controls the air mix? take out the cover under you steerering column, you should see it right above the fusebox, to the right ofcourse.. :) this engine moves a thingy back and forth and controls wheter the air goes thru the heater core or not.. Or it could be meachincal operated, its conected to the same cable that goes to the valve under the hood.. mine is, i found out after i bought the motor:mmad: but honda found it in their parts cataloge on my car. so im not sure about the diffrence on the difrent yaer models and si v.s type r..
https://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getJointLocator&siteid=215333&chapter=&Sectionids=0,51825&groupid=51827&subgroupid=2335&componentid=4716&make=12&model=Civic&year=2004&graphicID=4440075&callout=6&catalogid=2&displayCatalogid=0
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d10/95d77a22/i.png
Alright, the old-fashioned radiator cap off bleed did the trick. I found the fill lines on the coolant reservoir and it was bone dry. That along with a little bit of air I could see bubbling up in the radiator were the problems. Now the heat isn't fully strong as it should be, but I definitely get heat, so I think I'll replace the cabin air filters and that should do it.
LLH, my air blend motor was working fine, but thanks for the advice.
talonXracer
10-17-2010, 04:14 PM
Glad you got her heating up for you, there may still be a airbubble in there if the heat isnt all that hot.
Luckily I have most of the gallon of coolant I bought and plenty of time to bleed if necessary. Glad it wasn't anything more serious.
Sorry this isn't completely solved, just a question. If the heat only works as the engine gets to higher RPM's, does that mean there's too much coolant in the system? Or is there a lot more air to be bled?
talonXracer
10-19-2010, 06:31 AM
There could be an issue with the "T"stat as well.
Thermostat looks hard to get to in this car. I'll bleed it some more and see what happens first. Are there any clear writeups on this site on how to get to the thermostat, because it looks like I'd have to remove the throttle body or something.
talonXracer
10-19-2010, 08:15 AM
You should be able to get to the "T"stat from under the car. You shouldnt have to mess with the TB at all.
Is this where my thermostat is? The blue thing is the connection between the TB and intake. If so, I don't see how going under the car makes it any easier, especially with the quart or so of coolant that will spill down on me.
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h15/IBx1/1019001147.jpg
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h15/IBx1/1019001147a.jpg
:fatty: Bump for great justice.
twistdcody
10-21-2010, 07:54 AM
The Thermostat is actually on the lower radiator hose. its part of the whole water outlet assembly. i replaced mine last year it wasnt working properly. think i still have a little air in my system too.
number 6 in the picture.
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o225/Hybrid93Hatch/Hybrid93Hatch%20K20a2%20build%20/k20a2%20Layout/IMG_5796_disect_rs50.jpg
Thanks for the picture! I will look at my car and see if I can reach it from the top. If not I'll have my dad bring up my ramps this weekend for visiting week and then I'll be able to get under it.
Problem is, being on the lower radiator hose, all my coolant will come out, right? That'll be hard to hide on campus. How many gallons does the system take?
twistdcody
10-21-2010, 10:03 AM
Yea i dont think you will be getting to it from up top. and it wasnt to bad getting to from the bottom. and you wont lose all of the coolant. i propped the hose up out of the way to hold the fluid in.
Yeah, you're at least 100% right about not getting to it from the top. I'll have dad bring my ramps up and try not to get coolant on me when I pop off the housing. Will I need to remove the splash guard or anything else plastic from the bottom of the car to get up to the housing?
talonXracer
10-21-2010, 01:10 PM
You will need to remove the lower splash shield, not that hard at all, then open the radiator petcock and drain the coolant there before before attacking the "T"stat. If you use a clean container to catch the coolant you should be able to reuse it. It takes just over 1 gallon on a dry swap, not all will come out when you drain the rad, a little bit will need to be caught when doing the "T"stat. The drain petcock is on the bottom pass side of the rad.
Mechanic
10-23-2010, 02:15 AM
. . . First off, the car's cooling system works flawlessly. The car gets up to operating temperature within 4 minutes and doesn't overheat at all. My A/C works great, but for some reason my heat doesn't. . . .
IBx1: Before you remove the thermostat, I'd like to revisit what you said in your first post. Namely, "the car's cooling system works flawlessly." I believe you. I also think you're right. Thus, IMHO, there's nothing wrong with your thermostat.
The problem you are having with your heater is very common. If you do a search, you'll find at least two dozen posts on this topic. They begin appearing in late October or early November every year and run through the winter. They all say virtually the same thing: the cooling system works fine but the owner can't get enough heat. It's endemic to the breed. (How the Brits put up with this I have no idea. You'll freeze your rump off in England in the winter.) My humble advice is to ensure the heater cut-off valve (easy to reach on the top of the firewall) is opening fully. Push on the lever with your finger, but don't break it (it's expensive). When it's fully open, you're done. That's it. You may also have air trapped someplace in the water jacket, but I doubt it; not after everything else you've done to this point. You can change the thermostat if you want, but keep it when you're done, because there's probably nothing wrong with it, and you'll have a replacement that you'll likely never need.
My advice: dress warmly.
talonXracer
10-23-2010, 05:56 AM
Research those heater threads and you will find that the tstat is the culprit in about half the cases, ESPECIALLY an aftermarket "T"stat.
And this is not a issue endemic to Kseries, if so then the dozens of "K"s around here or mine, would have had this issue crop up in the winter, I see temps well down below -10 degrees for days on end and NEVER had issue one!
Mechanic
10-23-2010, 02:17 PM
Research those heater threads and you will find that the tstat is the culprit in about half the cases, ESPECIALLY an aftermarket "T"stat.
And this is not a issue endemic to Kseries, if so then the dozens of "K"s around here or mine, would have had this issue crop up in the winter, I see temps well down below -10 degrees for days on end and NEVER had issue one!
Sir, while ordinarily I'd defer to your considerable experience (and have, often), you and I are going to have to agree to disagree regarding the most logical solution to this (annual/late fall, early winter) problem.
IMHO, it is not possible to have -- as the OP stated -- "a cooling system that works flawlessly" (emphasis added) -- and simultaneously have a defective thermostat. Were that possible, almost certainly the OP would be experiencing some other engine temperature related issue, and he's not. Certainly the OP can replace the thermostat as you've recommended, but IMHO the source of his problem is a heater control valve that isn't diverting enough hot water to the radiator in the passenger compartment. Also, I didn't say this issue was endemic to the kseries. It's not. I said it was endemic to the EP3. (The British boards say the same thing, BTW. Ditto clubrsx.com.) I had this problem initially w/my '05; I didn't with my '02. Luck of the draw.
IBx1: Before you remove the thermostat, I'd like to revisit what you said in your first post. Namely, "the car's cooling system works flawlessly." I believe you. I also think you're right. Thus, IMHO, there's nothing wrong with your thermostat.
The problem you are having with your heater is very common. If you do a search, you'll find at least two dozen posts on this topic. They begin appearing in late October or early November every year and run through the winter. They all say virtually the same thing: the cooling system works fine but the owner can't get enough heat. It's endemic to the breed. (How the Brits put up with this I have no idea. You'll freeze your rump off in England in the winter.) My humble advice is to ensure the heater cut-off valve (easy to reach on the top of the firewall) is opening fully. Push on the lever with your finger, but don't break it (it's expensive). When it's fully open, you're done. That's it. You may also have air trapped someplace in the water jacket, but I doubt it; not after everything else you've done to this point. You can change the thermostat if you want, but keep it when you're done, because there's probably nothing wrong with it, and you'll have a replacement that you'll likely never need.
My advice: dress warmly.
I'll see if I can push it a little more open, it's that valve with the little cable on it, right? So I just put the car on full heat and then push it a bit more and that's it?
Also, it sounds to me like the tstat is stuck open, because the cooling system seems to work too well. Stays at normal operating temperature(between 1/4-1/3 the way up from the bottom of the gauge) but the coolant doesn't seem to be warm enough for heat. If I bring the revs up to 4k then there's significantly more heat than at idle, which means the tstat isn't restricting flow enough to 'cook' it up.
Ok, I can't push the thing in either direction but it moves fine with the HVAC controls inside. Thermostat sounds like the problem.
Mechanic
10-24-2010, 11:18 AM
Ok, I can't push the thing in either direction but it moves fine with the HVAC controls inside. Thermostat sounds like the problem.
I should have been more precise.
To answer your prior question, yes, the heater control valve is the "thing" on the firewall with a blue cable attached to the right side of the valve as you are standing in front of the car looking into the engine compartment.
And, you are correct, with the engine running and at normal operating temperature, as you turn the heater temperature control knob on the dash, the "arm" on the heater control valve should move right to left (again, as you are facing the car) as you select more heat. In other words, when the arm on the heater control valve is at the extreme left (open) position and heater fan is on, you should have heat.
As i said before, I've gone through this exact same scenario myself. I was fortunate to own two EP3s, so I could literally compare one with the other. Upon inspection, it was obvious the wire cable simply wasn't moving far enough to the left to fully open the heater control valve, and pushing on the arm (gently!) a few times while also turning the temperature control knob inside the car enabled me to gain the cable's full range of travel. The difference -- perhaps a 1/4-inch additional movement -- makes a big difference in the volume of hot water entering the radiator inside the car.
I also recommend you determine what the hot water temperature is in the car's radiator before investing in a new thermostat. Obviously, you cannot open the radiator cap when the engine is hot. (Well, you can, but you have to be damn careful to release the pressure gradually, and I don't recommend you attempt this if you haven't done it before.) Instead, allow the car to cool down, then remove the radiator cap, start the engine, allow the engine to come up to operating temperature (the cooling fan should cycle at least once). Use an engine thermometer (borrow one) to determine the temperature of the water. Anything over 180 degrees is sufficient to produce enough heat to heat the interior of the car. This procedure will also tell you whether the thermostat is opening normally, because you'll be able to see the water temperature increasing steadily until the fan kicks in. If the fan doesn't kick in, TalonXRacer is right: it's the thermostat. If, on the other hand, you have "normal" heat at the radiator, the source of your problem is the heater control valve. If you still cannot get the latter to open fully (as suggested above), I'd replace it first.
All that said, it certainly is possible that TalonXRacer is 100% correct and I'm dead wrong. But before investing time, labor and money installing a new thermostat, I'd want to be certain you have "hot" water in the car's radiator and the heater control valve is working properly.
talonXracer
10-24-2010, 12:09 PM
Sir, while ordinarily I'd defer to your considerable experience (and have, often), you and I are going to have to agree to disagree regarding the most logical solution to this (annual/late fall, early winter) problem.
IMHO, it is not possible to have -- as the OP stated -- "a cooling system that works flawlessly" (emphasis added) -- and simultaneously have a defective thermostat. Were that possible, almost certainly the OP would be experiencing some other engine temperature related issue, and he's not. Certainly the OP can replace the thermostat as you've recommended, but IMHO the source of his problem is a heater control valve that isn't diverting enough hot water to the radiator in the passenger compartment. Also, I didn't say this issue was endemic to the kseries. It's not. I said it was endemic to the EP3. (The British boards say the same thing, BTW. Ditto clubrsx.com.) I had this problem initially w/my '05; I didn't with my '02. Luck of the draw.
LOL confused signals here, I asked specifically to check the heater control valve first off(post#4), he said it worked fine, that is what I am going off of.
The tstat can fail open and cause alot of irregular cooling symptoms
I'm pretty sure it's failed open. The coolant will rise in the radiator, then the fans kick on. It seems to me that the valve is opening as far as it can, because I get more heat with higher revs. If the heater valve weren't working I wouldn't get nearly as much heat. The system is cooling the coolant too much for it to generate heat for the HVAC system. I will change the thermostat since the part is $14 from RockAuto and I already have almost two fresh gallons of Prestone 50/50(not GM Dexcool as I heard that's detrimental to Hondas) ready to go.
talonXracer
10-25-2010, 06:05 AM
The coolant rises in the Rad?
The arm on the heater control should rotate a full 90 degrees of travel.
I only use Prestone in Domestics, my Honda has only seen typeII coolant.
Yeah, the coolant rises gradually in the radiator to where the cap should be, and the heater valve travels maybe just a little more than 90* from full cold to full hot. Here is a picture of its position at full hot:
http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h15/IBx1/1025000909.jpg
If that doesn't look like it's fully open, then it certainly fully closes for cold at 90* left of that.
talonXracer
10-25-2010, 08:50 AM
The rad should be full to the top at all times, the excess should be going into the reservoir as the coolant heats up, and then drawn back into the rad as the coolant cools off. Is your overflow tube leaking air/coolant? or the reservoir itself? These issues could introduce air into the system even after bleeding.
No coolant leaks anywhere, but are you sure the radiator is supposed to be full all the time, even when the car is cold?
I'm going to try and do the thermostat today. I'll keep you guys posted on how it goes and if it works.
talonXracer
10-26-2010, 06:37 AM
Yes, the rad should be full at all times, the rad cap could be faulty.
Screw me, I just tried getting the thermostat housing off and I couldn't move anything. I couldn't get either of the 2 nuts I could actually see to budge, I couldn't get the radiator hose off at either end, I couldn't get the radiator drain plug off, and I'm glad I didn't try to take the splash shield off. The frame of the car itself is in the way. I'm taking it to the place I got my oil changed to have the thermostat swapped out for cheap enough today. I have a differential equations test tonight at 8 so waiting at Meineke will give me obligatory study time.
Also to clarify, I can see fluid in the radiator when it's cold so it's full, it's just that with the cap off when I run it, the coolant rises up to the top of where the cap would be. What the hell is with the site never being available?
Now that the site's finally online again, the thermostat fixed the problem! I have full heat! Also, the dealership found that my squeaking problem wasn't the front motor mount, but the gasket for the exhaust manifold had shrunk and the A-pipe was jiggling around and making the noise. I'm wondering if I can do the exhaust gasket myself, what kinds of tools I'll need, any special procedures that need to be done, or if I should just pay the dealership the $55 they quoted me for labor to have it done right?
Yeah, I spoke too soon. I still have the same problem as before, but that thermostat they removed was shot. Same issues, heat doesn't work unless the engine is wound up, the little cable valve thingy opens all the way, no air in the coolant system. What the hell?!
jtyler05si
11-12-2010, 05:46 PM
Dude that sucks. I am paying attention to this thread, as I have the same problem. How much did it cost for the new thermostat and the labor to replace it?
Well, the thermostat is built into the housing, so I had to get one from the dealer for $40, and the labor was $93, so after tax it was $155. I won't say it was completely unnecessary, since the part they took out was in one, long, clearly f'd piece, but it didn't really fix the problem.
One of the car gurus from my old Riviera forum thinks that either the water pump is going, with a typical life of around 100k miles it sounds right, or the heater core needs to be flushed, which also sounds right. My Riviera's water pump went while I had it though, and it made a massive pepper grinder noise that I simply can't hear at all on this engine, so I don't think the water pump is on its way out just yet. If it is, it's right up at the top of the accessories so I may be able to do it myself, rather than the Riviera's water pump which was in the middle of the block and next to the engine mount.
powdbyrice
11-18-2010, 12:15 AM
greeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaaaaaat. perfect timing for this thread tho!
my heater died a couple weeks ago... not looking forward to going through all this stuff...
stationary car = no heat.
moving car = heat.
cold interior = unhappy 4mo old baby's mother. =(
See if you can flush your heater core, or if you can have your water pump checked. If everything else works, then the problem can't be anything else.
powdbyrice
11-27-2010, 01:31 PM
Should there be pressure in the hose lines running in and out of the heater control thing on the firewall while the heater is on? If so, I do not. What needs to be fixed/replaced?
jtyler05si
11-28-2010, 07:19 PM
So I am in the same boat. The cable valve thing seems to work just fine. Driving around town at low RPM's I have little to no heat. Driving 75 mph down the highway for 1.5 hours this weekend, I noticed the heater worked perfectly the whole time. Also my coolant system seems to work the same as it always has... so I do not intend to even look into replacing my Thermostat... unless that's the last straw.
So far from what I have read on here my possible problems are:
-air in coolant
-need to flush the heater core
Does this sound correct?
I need to fix the heater just for the sake of having a 100% working car, even though I am fine with "sucking it up," but I don't want to spend any money if possible.
If you can flush the heater core, do it and let us know. I'm still saving up for taking my car in.
powdbyrice
11-29-2010, 01:50 PM
i wouldn't replace the t-stat. obviously it wasn't my problem and its a bitch to replace.
how do you do a heater core flush?
Garden hose to each side of the heater core hoses, I'm having mine done tomorrow morning for $40 at a well-reviewed service shop. I'll let you guys know how it turns out! The dealership wants $155 but that's because they do a thorough flush of all the cooling cavities in the engine, radiator, etc, and use a chemical treatment to get out any residue left. For $40, I could afford to get the heater core flushed out 4 times if there's enough residue left anywhere to block it again.
Hey guys, im at the shop now and they say the coolant is really worn out. Stuff looks like mud but it's not oil or anything. I'm having the whole system flushed out right now for $89 and the car should be good as new after!
Well, I had the heater core flushed out, and the coolant looked like mud from a heater core clogged up with very old and worn out coolant. It wasn't exhaust or oil in the coolant thankfully, as my car doesn't overheat or anything. Because it looked so bad though, we decided to flush out the entire system.
Right now, my car blows warm at idle and hot while driving. The heater core is clogged up from the bad coolant before but has been cleaned out enough to let coolant through and heat up. If I want 100% heater performance, the heater core will need to be replaced, but the heat works now and the core isn't necessarily broken, so I'll save the $600 I don't have. I've been dealing with no heat, so I can deal with warm at idle and hot while driving, as long as my defroster works.
For now, problem fully identified and mostly solved.
jtyler05si
12-10-2010, 03:07 PM
Found my solution. The coolant reservoir was empty. I assume it was letting air into the coolant system. I filled it up and my heater worked perfectly. Too bad my reservoir is cracked or something because it already leaked out on my driveway over the last few days. So I need to replace it. Does anyone know if this requires taking the bumper off?
Well, unfortunately there's an update. Something is definitely wrong with my car because the heat problem is back to where it was.
I think the head gasket is the problem.
Quoted from a Honda mechanic on justanswer.com:
"The fact that you are loosing heat idling means that there is an air pocket developing in the cooling system. I see this once in a while. Usually there has been a history of bleeding the system multiple times, replacing thermostats ect. and the air pocket keeps returning.
The way Honda engine head gaskets usually fail is, that there is no fluid transfer like oil to water or vise versa. But the combustion starts to bow past the gasket into the cooling system. Eventually, depending on how bad, you either loose heat, or when the pocket gets very large, the coolant stops circulation and the engine overheats."
The heater core is a $1,000 job, but does anyone know how bad it is to replace a head gasket?
Mechanic
01-15-2011, 03:02 AM
. . . I think the head gasket is the problem. . . .
I don't. If you aren't losing coolant, your online advice is incorrect. However, if you are determined to pursue this "solution," start by pulling the spark plugs. If you find one that is spotless in comparison to the others -- meaning the firing tip looks absolutely pristine -- this would be an indication that water/antifreeze is leaking into that cylinder, which has the effect of steam-cleaning that plug.
However, IMHO, this absolutely, positively, catagorically is not head gasket problem, nor do you need to give a gift of $1000 to someone to replace your heater core.
I again encourage you to return to Square One. Re-Google this issue; re-read all the threads you can find here, on clubrsx.com, honda-tech.com, etc. This "problem" is very common. It comes up (only) every winter. This phenomenon of nature (and I am being facetious for your benefit) should tell you this heater issue is endemic to the breed. Miraculously, come April, it will correct itself, meaning you will have zero-point-naught radiator/over-heating problems. In the meantime, dress warmly.
Honestly I don't know what it could be at this point. I'm having the car diagnosed Tuesday at 2pm just in case there is a problem and this isn't just a design flaw. The radiator is full, the heater core hoses are about the same temperature, the engine doesn't overheat AT ALL, the water pump doesn't make any bad noises(I've had one fail on my last car so I know what it sounds like), the thermostat is brand new, but I don't have heat. I bought a plug-in heated seat pad in the meantime but it's gonna get a lot colder soon, especially when I head back up 3 hours North to college next Saturday.
What does it mean if the radiator starts to overflow a few seconds after I start the car with the radiator cap off? The fluid level rises at a moderate pace, making it harder to bleed the system. That should be normal right?
Mechanic
01-15-2011, 09:54 AM
WRT your last post: Yes, it is normal for the coolant to rise and, eventually, overflow the radiator if the radiator cap is left off. When the cap is on, the overflow expands into the overflow tank, and as the engine cools, the coolant in the overflow tank is sucked back into the radiator.
WRT Tuesday's appointment, I hope for your sake that the person you've chosen to work on your car this time knows Hondas. By that I mean someone who works on Hondas frequently, preferably full time. If that's not the case, you need to be wary of paying someone who, for all practical purposes, is performing on-the-job training while you pay for it, literally and figuratively. In this regard, if you look back, I wrote weeks ago that I didn't think you needed to replace your engine's thermostat. My opinion was based on the fact that aside the issue of your passenger compartment heat (very common in EP3s), you had no other cooling-related issues. You might have needed to replace your thermostat eventually, but it wasn't necessary now. Continuing down the path of replacing parts based on what seems to be guesswork is expensive and, frankly, unprofessional. I'll say again I hope the person you've chosen is trustworthy, knows what he is doing, and will stand by his work.
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