PLAY NICE while im away!!!

[02blksi]

Alright kiddies, Im going away on a business trip so PLAY NICE!!! Ill be back in full force on friday (20th), have a great week.... --Joe, your friendly neighborhood moderator.

PS. --Dont make me get Steve in here (master of the lock) hahahah LOL --:)

PPS: for those who ordered kits they have all been sent.
Anyone who wants more kits ill be making them again styarting friday night. thanks --

[JSIR]

before you go away can you answer my question in the Ground Cable thread, of how you measure your voltage between engine parts and ground. What type of readings are you getting. Lastly I tried to measure voltage between the coil packs and I am getting very low readings, like .1 mv, most other spots read 5.6 mv, does this sound right to you. let me know if you can thanks.

[myeverlovinsir]

I have read what you guys were doing, about taking voltage measurements.

The voltage is the potential between each engine item compared to ground (neg. terminal on your battery) .

It will fluctuate while running. The ground cables and stock engine gounds, along with the chassis all carry some potential (static electricity) when compared to each other. Measuring voltage at idle really shows only a small picture of what may be happening during acceleration between engine components. A plot in conjunction with a dyno run would show a true representation of voltage(potential) over accel. IMO this is the only way to effectively measure voltage.

Voltage is only going to occur between poorly grounded components. (1 millivolt is not a concern) Once grounded with a 1 Ohm wire, and keeping your wire connections under 1000 ft, you will never have more than .001 volt (just your digital meters way of saying you have some voltage but .001 is the smallest it can show.) of total pressure that could occur(especially when using 8 gauge wire) A frequency is being generated which coresponds to 5.6 mV thats all, (principal of hetrodynes) and during acceleration you would expect this to curve upwards and limit itself evenly. BTW: 8 gauge wire has 0.6282 Ohms resistance per 1000 ft. (and is less as you shorten it)

Rest assured that if you have ground wires connected to an engine item that has potential(voltage), the voltage is being "sent to ground" by including low resistance wires, as we are doing. hth

JSIR, I would be more concerned if you did not have some voltage between the coils and gound while running. The coils are fluctating constantly and you will get some intermediate result from the coils being energized and shutting off.(imagine @ 800 rpm(idle) you have near 3.3 hz. Your meter cannot keep up on the
display, an analog meter is more handicaped because it tends
not to see the dips as well as its digital counterpart. this is why digital is viable now and analog is the result. Happens too fast to be read by a digital meter for the human eye. Don't forget that ground is also the common. All internal voltages are regulated by that reference. Imagine it as a water pipe, when you send water down the pipe you expect it to come out somewhere.(at the speed of light) 760 million miles an hourexactly 299,792,458 m/s.. Electricity needs to be a closed loop to work, so the water if you will, returns to the ground(common) terminal of your battery. Hense causing some fluctuation in the reference voltage or ground based on the origional potential. The meter is going to register this energy pulse, but your battery acts as a large capacitor, and absorbs it. When you turn on your lights the circuit that is energized draws current from the battery and this is what causes the pressure fluctuation. Its all based on load and power requirements. When items that are part of your engine are not connected to ground they generate potential and can cause a large draw on the your battery's potential. Addition loads such as turning on your lights, will effectively deplete the 12Volts source potential momentarily, untill the battery(capacitor) can recharge. (headlight dimming)

We are running an EPS(electronic power stearing) system as well so any additional load is at a premium.


If you are making a comparison in voltage between the chassis and coils then you would also need to have the chassis included in the reference ground, otherwise the potential could be great.

Making a comparison between the coils and the neg. terminal on your battery while running, once the ground wires are connected, will be alot more stable, 5.6 mV, miniscule and spurious which all bateries can handle.

Only thing you take to heart is that it is constant. Coilpacks are working.:)


hth

Side Note:

You may have felt the shock of touching the chassis as you exit your car one time or another. The reason is because you are not referenced to the common ground. Hate when that happens. (usually after long drives) or your chassis is being poorly shielded from your engine components. All chassis are grounded to prevent shock, but most are not connected to the earth ground, you may have seen these on the back of cars slightly dragging on the ground. This is the best reference as an overall ground.

[ssvr6]

Heh heh... I'll be watching all of you!

;)


Steve

[JSIR]

thanks Glen so basically hook them up and don't sweat it. Test it out at the dyno pretty much. sounds cool.

Hey Steve did I ever tell you that you were a great guy, please be nice to me when Joe is away .:angel:

[myeverlovinsir]

Steve, master o da lock. :D

Joey, yep. Damn, on a word quest. Oh well. Got that out of my
system. LOL.;)

[Jpax]

what the fack joes gone, OK PARTY WAAAAAAHOOOOOOOOOOO






OK WHO WANTS THE STRIPERS IN DANCING CAGES?


I can Bring the KEGS. :D :p

[Jpax]

holly shit that was awesome, fugging steve had the strippers in line dropping panties.............. lol


and iced out n cali had the liquer trucks droping by every hour,

dam, MYEP3, Si_Dra6NStyL , atl-si, CleanBlackSi02 , redronin22 , kpxplaya415 ,ep3guy

They were all faded and smoked out., :D

We had the best time shit guy we need to do this agin when joe leaves...... ;)

[HK_EP3]

huh??? y is my name on? was i der? i prolly so f*cked up i didnt remember anything!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

[02blksi]

IM BAAACCCCCKKKKK!! :)

[greenguy]

Originally posted by myeverlovinsir
, but your battery acts as a large capacitor, and absorbs it. , untill the battery(capacitor) can recharge. (headlight dimming)

I'm a little thrown off when you call a battery a capacitor and a capacitor a battery:) Well in one aspect I guess your right, but a cap BLOCKS all DC voltage and current. The only passage of current/volts from a cap is durring its charging 5~tao. I am still confused as to a caps function other than as it looks like an open to DC, Once fully charged. They discharge to help keep the AC voltage at a constant. i.e you have 5VAC and a 5VDC battery. You now have 10VAC before the cap. after the cap you have 5VAC. If a sudden draw pulls 3VAC (actually it would be current, but use Ohlms Law to get actual #) The cap will discharge the appropreate VDC to keep the current/voltage constant.
Oh well fun confuseing caps!:D

BTW: Welcome back 02blksi!

[myeverlovinsir]

A capcitor is a simple storage device, is used to emulate time when in series with a resistor. anyways the battery is a large capacitor capable of storing enough energy to keep your engine happy. capacitors in series circuits are used to regulate pulse width.(PWM) all capacitors when full charged will disipate. How fast it gets to full is controlled by the resistance, loads, and power circuits of your car, while your alternator keeps your battery in a constant charge state. Hope you can digest it Greenguy...let me know.

And yeah, Joe Welcome back!:D Joe who shall be thanked again for stickying my TB mod. I appreciate it, I think I covered all the bases, cept mabey about the intrequite parts of the cable pulleys but if anyone should need to know more, I hope this is a good enough start for anyone to undertake. Is the most cost effective bump in power to date.:cool:

[02blksi]

No problem!!

Its threads like that, that will benefit everyone! I love that stuff. --Joe :)