clunk in front end

[bizzle]

As you may know I bought one of Pooptooth's EP. I noticed it's been making them random clunking noise in the front end. It sounds/feels like a clunk and it's pretty random. It usually happens after shifting, but I don't think it's anything with the transmission. Speed doesn't seem to be a factor but it normally happens during acceleration or deceleration. If I am keeping a constant speed it seems fine. I recently had an alignment and honestly I can't remember if it was there before I had the alignment. The suspension parts all look very new and I am thinking maybe something came loose. Is this common for something like that to happen after replacing suspension components? I checked the lugs (and they were loose, thanks NTB!) and they are now tight but it still happens. Any thing specific I should look at? I was planning on buying some tools with holiday money and getting under it and just checking every nut and bolt I could find.

[bizzle]

I am an idiot and posted this in the wrong section. Feel free to move.

[RedSiBaron]

Its one of 3 things, the top hats on the shock mounts, sway bar end link(s) are loose, or subframe bolt(s) aren't tight...I posted more info in another thread this week, go look for it, I can't find it right now since im on my phone

[03Ep3617]

Its one of 3 things, the top hats on the shock mounts, sway bar end link(s) are loose, or subframe bolt(s) aren't tight...I posted more info in another thread this week, go look for it, I can't find it right now since im on my phone

And/Or motor mounts

[RedSiBaron]

And/Or motor mounts

True, but I had 2 blown mounts and never heard a peep...

[civictype_r04]

As you may know I bought one of Pooptooth's EP. I noticed it's been making them random clunking noise in the front end. It sounds/feels like a clunk and it's pretty random. It usually happens after shifting, but I don't think it's anything with the transmission. Speed doesn't seem to be a factor but it normally happens during acceleration or deceleration. If I am keeping a constant speed it seems fine. I recently had an alignment and honestly I can't remember if it was there before I had the alignment. The suspension parts all look very new and I am thinking maybe something came loose. Is this common for something like that to happen after replacing suspension components? I checked the lugs (and they were loose, thanks NTB!) and they are now tight but it still happens. Any thing specific I should look at? I was planning on buying some tools with holiday money and getting under it and just checking every nut and bolt I could find.

Maybe ask him what it would be since he sold it to you...

[bizzle]

I am fairly sure it started AFTER I bought it and I bug the guy enough with questions, also I was looking to see if anyone else ever had a similar issue.

RedSIBaron, I found the post you were referring to but there is way too much snow right now for me to get under it. Thanks for pointing me in that direction, I'll check it as soon as I can.

[PatrickJamesYu]

This might be a weird thing but
I have similar problem during some accell, but mostly deceleration and in the rain.
I THINK i've pinned it down to this.
When I removed my resonator, I welded my mid pipe higher because there is no exhaust channel, and I scrape alot
I think it's my mid pipe hitting the underside of the car

It sounds like my car is dieing
but, i'm pretty certain, its just the pipe hitting the underside of my car
you MIGHT have the some problem
But I could be terribly wrong too.

[civictype_r04]

I am fairly sure it started AFTER I bought it and I bug the guy enough with questions, also I was looking to see if anyone else ever had a similar issue.

RedSIBaron, I found the post you were referring to but there is way too much snow right now for me to get under it. Thanks for pointing me in that direction, I'll check it as soon as I can.

This is some crazy snow..... but let us know what you see..

[bizzle]

Finally got to fiddling with it and the nut on the bottom of the tie rod end was loose. I tightened it up and its better. Still need to look for more loose nuts.

Anyway, can someone tell me if the nut on the bottom of this tie rod end is factory or not? My dad said usually when they have a cotter pin like this one that one side of the nut will have a top like a crown for the pin to lock in to, it can't come loose.
http://ant.ro.lt/~anthony/tierod.jpg

[Tnhatch03]

glad you figured it out!

as far as the cotter pin question. i believe that is the stuck nut. anything is possible over time. they do not usually come off, but there could be other factors that could cause the pin to break off. weather/rust/pressure/etc. however, if the pin does somehow break, the nut should keep it in place.

[gamma6]

Finally got to fiddling with it and the nut on the bottom of the tie rod end was loose. I tightened it up and its better. Still need to look for more loose nuts.

Anyway, can someone tell me if the nut on the bottom of this tie rod end is factory or not? My dad said usually when they have a cotter pin like this one that one side of the nut will have a top like a crown for the pin to lock in to, it can't come loose.


my oem one looked like that, but i just recently bought replacement outer tie rods and those came with the crown nut ur dad is talking about

[Twisted-X]

I thought my '05 had those castle nuts, but after running out to look, its just got a regular nut with the cotter pin smooshed up against it to hold it in place.
They might be available at the local parts store?

[RedSiBaron]

that should be a castellated nut, you can get them from honda, they are cheap...

[ep3moschini]

that should be a castellated nut, you can get them from honda, they are cheap...

yeah. . thats kinda the point of the cotter pin. . .

good luck when it falls off

[RedSiBaron]

yeah. . thats kinda the point of the cotter pin. . .

good luck when it falls off

whats it like steering with one wheel? joe, youd know!

[bizzle]

Clunk came back on the way home. Trying to pull over on 76 is nearly impossible so it had to wait until I got home. Checked the same nut, loose again. I am going to get some lock tight and try it again. Checked the other side and I can't even make it budge, so I am just not getting this one tight enough.

[PREJDMLUDE]

How many miles on car .? Maybe half shaft I replaced mine just see if any play on passenger side axle .

[Mighty_Mouse_Ep]

When my ep had a clunking noise it turned out to be the front LCA bushing. The one on my passenger side was torn.

[Andrew]

Clunk came back on the way home. Trying to pull over on 76 is nearly impossible so it had to wait until I got home. Checked the same nut, loose again. I am going to get some lock tight and try it again. Checked the other side and I can't even make it budge, so I am just not getting this one tight enough.

i wouldnt recommend locktite? unless its the removeable one (if they make that) because if you work on your suspension in the near future how are you going to get it off! just my .02

[bizzle]

Locktite does break loose, it just takes a lot of effort. Anyway, I'll look at the axle. I think some of the noise I hear is my license plate on the front flopping around. I am afraid of over tightening it. Should it to be so tight I can no longer make the nut turn? Does anyone know the correct torque spec? I am only using a wrench about 9" long and I am not jacked so I don't know if I'd even have the strength and torque to over tighten it.

[bizzle]

I tightened it before I left for work. Half way to work, clunk came back. Got it work, checked it, loose as hell again. Like I can almost turn it with my hand. Anyone have a part number of the castellated nut from Honda? My local Honda dealers are useless at looking things up.

Advance Auto has some castellated nuts but I am not sure if I'll be able to find one with the same threads.

[talonXracer]

You need to get the proper nut, that is no way shape or form a stock nut for a tierod end, they are required to be castellated by law(DOT requirement)

You will probably need a new tierod end as well, that clunking is the tierod end being torqued and popped in and out of the steering arm, that will destroy both parts!

AutoZone will have the correct nut.

[Kerby]

whats it like steering with one wheel? joe, youd know!

:spit: there goes my coffee all over my computer!
That's hitting below the belt charlie.:tehehyper:

[bizzle]

You need to get the proper nut, that is no way shape or form a stock nut for a tierod end, they are required to be castellated by law(DOT requirement)

You will probably need a new tierod end as well, that clunking is the tierod end being torqued and popped in and out of the steering arm, that will destroy both parts!


Awesome. I'll get the nuts tomorrow, I can't until then because I am stuck at work all day. I am a little pissed the wrong nuts where put on this thing when the suspension got changed, but that's life I suppose.

[bizzle]

I might be able to make it on lunch today, anyone know the exact size I should be looking for? If not I can take one off and try to match it up. Thanks for all the help guys.

[bizzle]

looked all over, no parts stores have them in stock. the guy at advance said its a 3/8-24 nut. sound right? home depot has them actually and in stock. also called honda dealers, no one has them.

[talonXracer]

NO, they are a metric thread. 10mm

Honda part# 94030-10080
.75$ at a Honda stealership

[Twisted-X]

NO, they are a metric thread. 10mm

Honda part# 94030-10080
.75$ at a Honda stealership

That is in fact the OEM nut that Honda used on our cars. Its not castellated. 17-65 Helms manual.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/Jaymesvbp/DSC00315.jpg

But it should be. :mrolleyes:

[bizzle]

Any idea why it won't stay tight on my car? I am going to get the Honda ones anyway I guess, but it refuses to stay tight with whats on their now.

I am going to remove the bolt again tomorrow morning and pull out the tie rod end and see how and if any chewed up it is. I may just go buy replacements tomorrow from Advance because they are a.) in stock b.) come with the castellated nuts and cotter pins.

Also, anyone still using the stock airbox, do you get any noise from it banging around? If I press it down just a bit it does hit something and I am wondering if that's what a lot of the noise I hear is.. along with my license plate flapping around.

[bizzle]

Just tried to pull the end out of the strut and it wasn't happening. I need to pick up one of those tools to do it when I go to the auto parts store.

[bizzle]

So I just got done fooling with it again and discovered two things. First, the airbox is missing the bottom mount. I suppose when the aftermarket intake was installed before the mount was removed and just never reinstall. With the bottom not secure, the airbox bangs into the top of the transmission. I just put some zip ties through it and wrapped them around something metal to hold it up. Now the airbox doesn't clunk anymore.

Second, the skid plate under the front bumper is missing some of the locking pins. I had my girlfriend kick that spot while I was in the car and it made the same noise. Also, the particle board or whatever it is in the hatch on the floor has a tendency to bang around on the plastic trim. I removed everything from the hatch and a lot of the noise disappeared. The seats clunk too, but I think that's just because the position lock doesn't hold it 100% tight, just prevents it from moving all over the place. This could be what I "felt" when I heard the noise over bumps.

Also, the tie rod end bolt maybe isn't coming loose. I tightened it as much as I could and then tried to loosen it and it comes loose very easy. Maybe that's why I was thinking it was coming loose on it's own. I may threw some thread locker on it as a precaution though.

I am going to try to find those locking pins for the plate on the bottom and see if that resolves it.

[Mighty_Mouse_Ep]

That is in fact the OEM nut that Honda used on our cars. Its not castellated. 17-65 Helms manual.
http://i399.photobucket.com/albums/pp78/Jaymesvbp/DSC00315.jpg

But it should be. :mrolleyes:

That is the OEM bolt the castle nut is on the lower ball joint. The tir rod end has a regular 17mm nut with a codder pin like in the pic. Have you check the top nut on the top of the strut. Mine was loose and made a clunking noise. Also check out the fron lca bushings.

[bizzle]

Can you explain in more detail or picture which nut you are talking about? I am not that much of a car guy when it comes to fixing them. Ask me about fixing Macs and I can help you!

[Mighty_Mouse_Ep]

Can you explain in more detail or picture which nut you are talking about? I am not that much of a car guy when it comes to fixing them. Ask me about fixing Macs and I can help you!

If you open up the hood look at the strut towers. It is the center nut that you use a combo wrench and i believe a 6mm alen key to tighten up. Lol so yeah iinstalled windows 7 on my macbook using bootcamp but when i am in windows mode i cant access the mac osx part of the HD is there a way to do that lol

[bizzle]

Install the boot camp drivers from your Mac OSX Install DVD. If you no longer have the DVD you can download a torrent on of it. That usually installs the software needed for full hardware support and the ability to read HFS+ formatted partitions. Also, you can install MacDrive and some other third party software. I'd just stick to the boot camp drivers for the best compatibility. I'll take a look at those other nuts when I get done work. Thanks!

[Mighty_Mouse_Ep]

Install the boot camp drivers from your Mac OSX Install DVD. If you no longer have the DVD you can download a torrent on of it. That usually installs the software needed for full hardware support and the ability to read HFS+ formatted partitions. Also, you can install MacDrive and some other third party software. I'd just stick to the boot camp drivers for the best compatibility. I'll take a look at those other nuts when I get done work. Thanks!
Ok thanks for the tip and good luck with the clunking noise. Oh yeah another thing to check is make sure your endlinks on the front sway bar isnt loose or broken.

[bizzle]

Do I need to get under the car to check that? Got a picture? I appreciate the help sooooo much.

[Mighty_Mouse_Ep]

If you park the car and turn the wheels all the way to one side you should be able to see the sway bar end links. I am at work right now but i'll try to snap a pic when i get off work. It connects to the front lower controll arm with a 14mm bolt and a 6mm hex bit. You tighten it up the same was as the top strut bolt.

[bizzle]

Passanger side top strut nut was loose. Tightened it a bit and we'll see how it is when I drive it home. You guys are awesome.

[bizzle]

Seemed fine until half way home and heard it again. I don't think I actually tightened the top nut very much though so that could be why. I just realized the hex keys I bought were not metric, so while I thought it was tight, it probably wasn't. Going to pick up a metric set tomorrow and try it again. Also, I found the sway bar links and they were very hard to access (with snow on the ground and it being cold as shit outside and I am tired from work) but they LOOKED ok. I may try to fool with them tomorrow as well.

[ImportCustomx]

moved to suspension

[Drew1d]

Install the boot camp drivers from your Mac OSX Install DVD. If you no longer have the DVD you can download a torrent on of it. That usually installs the software needed for full hardware support and the ability to read HFS+ formatted partitions. Also, you can install MacDrive and some other third party software. I'd just stick to the boot camp drivers for the best compatibility. I'll take a look at those other nuts when I get done work. Thanks!

Mac drive made my life easier.

[Drew1d]

Seemed fine until half way home and heard it again. I don't think I actually tightened the top nut very much though so that could be why. I just realized the hex keys I bought were not metric, so while I thought it was tight, it probably wasn't. Going to pick up a metric set tomorrow and try it again. Also, I found the sway bar links and they were very hard to access (with snow on the ground and it being cold as shit outside and I am tired from work) but they LOOKED ok. I may try to fool with them tomorrow as well.

Torque wrench and a set of metric T-handle hex keys, and always, Liquid wrench.

[bizzle]

I actually still haven't figured this out. I am going to get under the car tomorrow. It hasn't appeared to affect the way the car drives and I've been busy so I haven't put much effort into trying to figure it out. I am going to go over all the nuts I checked before and now get under it completely because I have ramps now. Sometimes I can feel the "clunk" to the right of the gas pedal where the exhaust runs through the underside of the car. It's like something is swinging back and forth hitting the body because sometimes I'll hear it twice in a row.

[bizzle]

Looked around today and noticed this. This could explain why I feel it near the pedal, the exhaust runs through through there. Check this out, something appears to be missing.

Look where the exhaust connects to the header. Should be that massive gap where the bolt goes through the flange? I just feel like it could be banging around in there. I did some research and it appears to be the correct bolt but the massive gap just seems strange.

http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/8784/photokgn.jpg

[Twisted-X]

I noticed that there's no heat shield on the header, what test pipe are you running? Maybe someone else is having the same issue.
If you haven't already, you could try grabbing the test pipe and pushing/pulling on it to see if it clunks.

[bizzle]

It doesn't have a test pipe as far as I know. POOPTOOTH said it was all the stock exhaust when I bought it. It has a cat converter because it passed NJ emissions after I bought it. I tried moving it but I couldn't replicate the clunk, I am pretty weak though. Also it may not be the part I took a picture of but I could put my foot under and kick the cat and it does sound like it hits the shielding, which could be the issue. I think it's an exhaust issue, not suspension like I originally thought.

[tallblondkid]

i didnt read the whole thread, but i had what seems to be a similar problem a while back... turned out to be the front lower control arm bolt. where the compliance bushing in the LCA slides into the subframe... that bolt was loose and it would shift creating a clunk during acceleration and deceleration. i just tightened the well out of it and it was gone.

[bizzle]

Got a picture of the exact location? I know I am asking a lot but I just want to make sure I am looking in the right area incase I find it's already tight.

[bizzle]

Had the car go into the shop this morning for new tires and when they jacked it up they noticed the front passenger wheel wobbled. They tightened the bolts that hold the bottom of the of the strut to the hub (????, could be wrong, not much of a car fixing guy) and it fixed that issue but but the clunk persists. I feel it coming from behind/to the right of the gas pedal. Got under it an hour ago and looked around, didn't see anything obvious. I tried moving the axels and they weren't completely stiff but barely moved. Is this normal? How much of a nightmare is it to replace them if needed?

[bizzle]

I just got under it again and checked the subframe bolts, they seem tight to me. I can't make them budge in either direction. I grabbed onto the swap bar and I can pull it left to right, like there is some play. Is this normal or should it not budge?

[tallblondkid]

sway should have only a bit of play, hardly noticable... maybe try tightening the sway bar bracket bolts or maybe the endlinks are bad
axles will also have a bit of play but not much
as for the clunk, look at the pic... tighten the labeled bolts hard, esp. the front one.
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k314/tallblondkid/0211hon_10zoomAcura_RSX_Type_RLower_Control_Arm_Vi ew.jpg

[bizzle]

Thanks so much for the picture with labels, really helps when you're a newb like myself with cars. I've checked the one on the compliance bushing and I couldn't get it to budge either direction. I did not check the other one that's labeled "tighten these hard!" because I did not see it.

[rd02SiR]

i didn't read the entire thread, but do you have coilovers? or aftermarket midpipe?

The things i'm thinking:
1). The top bolt og the coilovers are loose
2). An aftermarket midpipe (i.e. megan midpipe) may tend to hit the floor.

[bizzle]

As far as I know my midpipe is factory, but I was thinking it was banging into the floor or something was banging into something. The hanger near the catalytic converter is very close to the sway bar but I didn't think it would swing around enough to slam into it. I am going to get under it in a few hours when it warms up a little more and check the sway bar bracket bolts, end links again, bolts on control arms. It's just so damn cold it's hard to go nuts on the wrenches.

[POOPTOOTH]

My guess is your exhaust is rubbing. Aftermarket and Stock Exhaust have been notorious for rubbing or 'bumping' into the narrow exhaust tunnel under the car. ESPECIALLY when there is alot of water on the road (from melting snow, rain, etc.) that cause the metal to expand and contract. I had to notch my under body because I got tired of hearing it.

[bizzle]

POOPTOOTH, did you hear the noise I am talking about in the car before you sold it to me? I honestly can't remember for sure if it was doing it or not, I think one day I just started noticing it after I drove it more often on slow roads. I am willing to drive the car down to you one day if you'd be willing to help me work on it or provide more information on how to potentially resolve it by doing what you did to yours. It's not so much of an issue if I can be sure its the exhaust but its not not knowing that drives me crazy because of the long distances I drive it every day.

[POOPTOOTH]

I didn't hear dick man, honestly. That car was physically and structurally more sound than my VBP car, and I take great pride in making sure MY car is 100%. Get under the car if you can and wiggle the exhaust and take a look to see if its hitting anywhere. If so, take note of where it is. Get a hammer and put a small dent on where its rubbing. Thats all I did with mine and its been tits ever since.

As for the 'tie rod' issue, just to clarify...when you say you are "turning it and its loose" are you referring to the tie rod itself or the actual nut? Because if you are referring to the tie rod itself, there will be some play, clockwise and counterclockwise, depending on the way your wheel is turned, etc.

And as pointed out earlier there should not be a castle nut on the tie rod. Although its never a bad idea, for peace of mind. Now if your talking about the lower ball joint, then yes, there should be... But were not.

[bizzle]

I wasn't accusing you of doing anything, I was just curious if you ever heard it. As for the castle nut, I got some conflicting information at first about that and thought there was supposed to be one on there. I don't think you screwed me or anything if that's what you thought I meant.

[POOPTOOTH]

I know you weren't, don't get so defensive! I was just telling you I didn't hear anything...or 'dick' as I put it. I'd be more than happy to help out with any questions you may have, don't ever feel like you are a bother or anything.

[bizzle]

HOLY SHIT I AM DUMB. As many times as I've checked the end links, the left was NOT tight. See the video..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTQMMo0Emz8&feature=youtube_gdata_player

The right side did not make this noise. Tightened it and problem solved. Thanks so much for the help.. I am apparently brain dead.

[Twisted-X]

Ha ha, its seems like its always the simple things. :-p



Coincidentally, my Corsport V2 endlinks did that same exact thing right out of the box. Guess where they are now.... in the box.

[tallblondkid]

glad it was simple.