Full Race Turbo Coming Up...Need HELP with Parts List

[MadLorEP3]

Hey EPHATCHERS...:help:

Just finished my swap and I decided to SKIP the SC route. Noob to the turbo game and need your input. Would you be kind enough to let me know if I am missing anything else on my list of parts below.

I have an 04 EP3 with an 07 K24A2 (stock internals) and EP3 5 SPD TRANNY. I already have KPRO & MOTORMOUNTS. Power goaqls at least 400HP (for now) and at least 300TQ on 91 high octane gas. My ep is not my DD and I DON'T TRAQCK, DRAG, AUTOCROSS. In the future, I might be open to any of these events time if time permits.

I'm trying to figure out what parts are needed now and what part can wait. Here is my part list so far...Pls let me know what I'm missing...
EDIT: Here is my UPDATED LIST 1/29/11 everythign is bought BNIB...

1. FR GT3582R Single Scroll Turbo Kit HPC w/ BC turbo timer, KN filter & FR vacuum block, Gold wrap $4274
2. Quaife LSD $746
3. Competition Clutch Stage 4 sprung, 6 puck $330
4. Hondata 4 bar base map $75
5. Hondata Boost Solenoid $75
6. Odessy Battery PC680 + terminals $99
7. NGK Iridium NGK-BKR8EIX $25
8. Thermal 3” full exhaust system $540
9. Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors $410
10. Hybrid Racing Black Fuel Rail $145
11. Walbro INTANK HP fuel pump GSS342 + installation kit $70
12. Tunerview RD1 + KPRO module $275
13. Honda Clutch Master Cylinder [2004 Honda civic ex (EM2)] 46920-S5A-G05 $107
14. Oil Catch Can $32
15. OEM type-s flywheel $55
16. Fuel management and brake lines and fittings $800
17. AC lines and fittings $290








Misc
Fuel Management: (I need to read up on this, Do I need a fuel return system???)
a) ID 1000 cc Injectors
b) HR black fuel rail (with -6AN fitting adapters)
c) Aeromotive FPR with 1:1 boost reference port (ie, aeromotive A1000, make sure to get -6AN fittings for it) (not sure if I should go with fuel lab or aeromotive, any advice???)
d) Walbro INTANK fuel pump GSS342
e) Walbro INLINE fuel pump 255lph
f) Aeromotive inline fuel filter [(x1) -10AN fuel filter 10 microns]
g) (x1) 5/16” submersible fuel line (Napa NBH N209 (Gates hose part 27093) 12” )
h) (x1) 1 3/8” submersible fuel line (Napa NBH N213 (Gates hose part 27097) 12”)
i) Aeromotive Billet fuel filter bracket
j) Fuel gauge liquid filled [B][COLOR="red"](what brand do you recommend?)





Can someone PLEASE explain to me how to set up this fuel management thing, or at least point me in the right direction???

tnx in advance...:help:

[BaLisTek]

i have a feeling your car and my mind will become "blown" in this thread =) Wish I had knowledge to help you out. Best of luck mate

[urthworm]

Are you going to run pump gas or e85? how much power are you shooting for?

[RHCP0801]

you only need the push on fuel fitting if you are using the stock fuel line, if you end up running a return fuel system than you dont. Im running a hr fuel rail with push on fitting on my k24 right now

[monjarassi]

like (earthworm) said it matters to see wat u want and will need. Also i didnt see u post a down pipe, and do you have kpro?? As for axles it all depends on power u seeking. I have a diagram ill post up for the fuel setup that should help u out man.

[Canuck Civic]

You can check out this guys fuel return setup on a RSX

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=666593

[monjarassi]

Heres a perfect example if u plan on going all out.. Hope it helps

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/5355819483_51db937c3c_z.jpg

[RHCP0801]

he is running a k24a2 so he has to have kpro

[monjarassi]

^^ of course u rite, he has to have kPooo

[MadLorEP3]

i have a feeling your car and my mind will become "blown" in this thread =) Wish I had knowledge to help you out. Best of luck mate

tnx bro...Im kinda slow so what you mean by "blown?"


Are you going to run pump gas or e85? how much power are you shooting for?

Just high octane 91...at least 400 hp and at least 300 tq


you only need the push on fuel fitting if you are using the stock fuel line, if you end up running a return fuel system than you dont. Im running a hr fuel rail with push on fitting on my k24 right now

oh ok, so I WILL BE running a return fuel system (I just gotta figure out exactly what it is and what parts are needed) so I wont need that fuel fitting, tnx


like (earthworm) said it matters to see wat u want and will need. Also i didnt see u post a down pipe, and do you have kpro?? As for axles it all depends on power u seeking. I have a diagram ill post up for the fuel setup that should help u out man.


You can check out this guys fuel return setup on a RSX

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=666593

tnx bud, Ill look at it now


Heres a perfect example if u plan on going all out.. Hope it helps

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/5355819483_51db937c3c_z.jpg

Im gonna go thru this now see if I get it...tnx sir


he is running a k24a2 so he has to have kpro


^^ of course u rite, he has to have kPooo

Yes...already got kpro...

[MadLorEP3]

RSX Fuel System upgrade (pump/feed/return)...copied from crsx done by robry

Parts required:
1 Walbro fuel pump GSS342 order here
1 5/16” submersible fuel line (Napa # NBH N209 (Gates hose part # 27093) comes 12” long) or order here
1 3/8” submersible fuel line (Napa # NBH N213 (Gates hose part # 27097) comes 12” long) or froogle it
4 3/8” ID fuel injector clamps (band style)
4 3/8” ID hose clamps (worm gear style)
1 1/2” ID hose clamp (worm gear style)
6 -6AN straight pushloc fittings
2 -6AN 45 degree pushloc fittings
2 -6AN 90 degree pushloc fittings
1 -6AN 180 degree pushloc fittings
1 -10AN fuel filter 10 microns
2 -6AN to -10AN male to female adapters (fuel filter)
25 feet of -6AN(3/8” ID) pushloc hose
1 aftermarket fuel rail with -6AN fitting adapters (if rail is larger diameter)
1 FPR with 1:1 boost reference port (ie, aeromotive A1000, make sure to get -6AN fittings for it)
1 vacuum line for your FPR
10 hose clamps for your fuel line under the car
10 self-tapping sheet metal screws (try to get Philips drive about ¾” long)
20 medium sized zipties

[TigerBallZ]

1)FR EFR 7670 T3 Single Scroll Turbo kit (already comes with internal BOV, WG, boost solenoid but Im
unsure if it already comes with a DOWNPIPE???)
Hell Yeah! The kit should come with a dp, and you will have to fab up where it meets the "catback." You may want to mention it's a K24 since it's a little taller.
2) Quaife LSD
Good
3) CC stg 4, 6 puck, sprung
Good. That's what I'm running. Easy to drive and lasts a long time.
4) OEM type s flywheel
Good
5) Hondata 4 bar map
Good
5) Odessy battery pc680 + terminals
Good. I have the Xstatic 800. You may want to consider car audio batteries and compare it to the Odessy. I do have a battery tender when it's parked.
6) NGK IRIDIUM IX Spark Plugs BKR8EIX (Should I go with 8 or 9???)
8 is perfect for you power goals.
7) Thermal 3" exhaust system
Good. May still need to fab where it meets the dp.
8) DSS axles (Are these needed now?)
I'm running on stock...Adavane Auto Parts axles, GSP brand. I carry a pair with me, I run it hard. Since I had the current setup, I snapped it twice at the track, and one time on the street. If you can afford it, got for it.
9) Oil Catch Can (not sure where to buy this or what brand???)
I currently don't have one, but I hear it's good to vent the PCV valve.
10) Gauges For interior of car (Which gauges do I need???)
It's up to you I say. I have a boost gauge, and a NGK AFX that I haven't installed. KPro has many safety features to save your motor. Make sure the tuner set it up. Lean cut and boost cut
11) Fucking Fuel Management: (I need to read up on this, Do I need a fuel return system???)
a) ID 1000
b) HR black fuel rail (Do I also need the HR push on fitting?)
c) Aeromotive FPR (not sure if I should go with fuel lab or aeromotive, any advice???)
d) Walbro INLINE fuel pump 255lph
e) Walbro INTANK fuel pump (Not sure if I need BOTH INTANK or INLINE FUEL PUMP or just INTANK???)
f) Aeromotive inline fuel filter
g) Gates fuel line 12" (not sure how long I need???)
h) Aeromotive Billet fuel filter bracket
i) Fuel gauge (not sure which one or what specific gauge I need???)
I'm currently running one Walbro 255, but I have a return line. You may want to look into the new Deatschwerks fuel pump. It's an intank that'll support way more than what you're currently looking for.
Running a new feed and return can add a bunch of cost from lines, fittings, rail, and regulator. You can get away with the stock fuel setup, and go with 1000cc injectors.
When you get in the mid 400whp range, the you may want to think about a return line.

[MadLorEP3]

1)FR EFR 7670 T3 Single Scroll Turbo kit (already comes with internal BOV, WG, boost solenoid but Im
unsure if it already comes with a DOWNPIPE???)
Hell Yeah! The kit should come with a dp, and you will have to fab up where it meets the "catback." You may want to mention it's a K24 since it's a little taller.
OK...yeah I need a pipe between the down pipe and the catback check2) Quaife LSD
Good
3) CC stg 4, 6 puck, sprung
Good. That's what I'm running. Easy to drive and lasts a long time.
4) OEM type s flywheel
Good
5) Hondata 4 bar map
Good
5) Odessy battery pc680 + terminals
Good. I have the Xstatic 800. You may want to consider car audio batteries and compare it to the Odessy. I do have a battery tender when it's parked.
When I park I can just disconnect battery and that should protect it from being drained right?
6) NGK IRIDIUM IX Spark Plugs BKR8EIX (Should I go with 8 or 9???)
8 is perfect for you power goals.
Sweet going with 8 then
7) Thermal 3" exhaust system
Good. May still need to fab where it meets the dp.
Got it will do
8) DSS axles (Are these needed now?)
I'm running on stock...Adavane Auto Parts axles, GSP brand. I carry a pair with me, I run it hard. Since I had the current setup, I snapped it twice at the track, and one time on the street. If you can afford it, got for it.
ok so which one snapped the stock or the GSP brand? do you think I should go with GSP or DSS brand? Yeah, I might as well get it now...want to minimize problems later
9) Oil Catch Can (not sure where to buy this or what brand???)
I currently don't have one, but I hear it's good to vent the PCV valve.
Sorry...which one is the pcv valve
10) Gauges For interior of car (Which gauges do I need???)
It's up to you I say. I have a boost gauge, and a NGK AFX that I haven't installed. KPro has many safety features to save your motor. Make sure the tuner set it up. Lean cut and boost cut
11) Fucking Fuel Management: (I need to read up on this, Do I need a fuel return system???)
a) ID 1000cc injectorrs
b) HR black fuel rail (Do I also need the HR push on fitting?)
c) Aeromotive FPR (not sure if I should go with fuel lab or aeromotive, any advice???)
d) Walbro INLINE fuel pump 255lph
e) Walbro INTANK fuel pump (Not sure if I need BOTH INTANK or INLINE FUEL PUMP or just INTANK???)
f) Aeromotive inline fuel filter
g) Gates fuel line 12" (not sure how long I need???)
h) Aeromotive Billet fuel filter bracket
i) Fuel gauge (not sure which one or what specific gauge I need???)
I'm currently running one Walbro 255, but I have a return line. You may want to look into the new Deatschwerks fuel pump. It's an intank that'll support way more than what you're currently looking for. Ok I will look into this Deatschwerks fuel pump
Running a new feed and return can add a bunch of cost from lines, fittings, rail, and regulator. You can get away with the stock fuel setup, and go with 1000cc injectors.
When you get in the mid 400whp range, the you may want to think about a return line.

I want to do as much now so i dont have to later so I wanna go all out in terms of the fuel management so I will do a return line as well now tnx

[MadLorEP3]

Do I need a vacuum distribution block???

[MadLorEP3]

Heres a perfect example if u plan on going all out.. Hope it helps

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5281/5355819483_51db937c3c_z.jpg

So the main parts that I need not including fittings and AN's
are
1) fuel rail + 1000cc injectors
2) FPR
3) Walbro INTANK fuel pump
4) Bosch 44 INLINE fuel pump
5) Fuel filter

Question is whether to go with Bosch or walbro for the INILINE fuel pump

[urthworm]

A vacuum block would help. and i dont think you will need a inline fuel pump for 400whp, i didnt. The walbro 255 should be just fine for the mean time.. i think they are good for around 500, but i never pushed mine that far.

I ran a return line but with the new bosh 1000cc injectors from crsx i was told you dont have to run it.. Ive seen people do it both ways.

Again.. i bought dss axles but i know of an rsx here in town using stockers and making 477whp and his are holding up. I dont know how they would do with slicks though.

I didnt use a catch can.. i just let it vent.

Get a oil fitting for the oil feed and a fitting for the oil pan.. for the return line. Crsx sells those too.

I always went the safe route with my builds but there are always those budget builds that push oem parts to the extreme and some how they hold up..

Oh and i think just a boost gauge is all you will need.

Ive been out of the turbo game for about a year, so if anyone has some updated or newer advice please correct me...

[monjarassi]

A vacuum block would help. and i dont think you will need a inline fuel pump for 400whp, i didnt. The walbro 255 should be just fine for the mean time.. i think they are good for around 500, but i never pushed mine that far.

I ran a return line but with the new bosh 1000cc injectors from crsx i was told you dont have to run it.. Ive seen people do it both ways.

Again.. i bought dss axles but i know of an rsx here in town using stockers and making 477whp and his are holding up. I dont know how they would do with slicks though.

I didnt use a catch can.. i just let it vent.

Get a oil fitting for the oil feed and a fitting for the oil pan.. for the return line. Crsx sells those too.

I always went the safe route with my builds but there are always those budget builds that push oem parts to the extreme and some how they hold up..

Oh and i think just a boost gauge is all you will need.

Ive been out of the turbo game for about a year, so if anyone has some updated or newer advice please correct me...

Agreed...

[MadLorEP3]

A vacuum block would help. and i dont think you will need a inline fuel pump for 400whp, i didnt. The walbro 255 should be just fine for the mean time.. i think they are good for around 500, but i never pushed mine that far.

stoopid question but I know that the amount of HP is determined by amt of boost
but who determines amt of boost, is that the tuner?
Ok so NO INLINE PUMP unless Im going over 450hp...
I ran a return line but with the new bosh 1000cc injectors from crsx i was told you dont have to run it.. Ive seen people do it both ways.

Again.. i bought dss axles but i know of an rsx here in town using stockers and making 477whp and his are holding up. I dont know how they would do with slicks though.

Yeah, I will get the DSS axles, what stg should I go with, Im thinking stg 0 should be fine for me???
I didnt use a catch can.. i just let it vent.

Ok so either catch can or vent is fine???
Get a oil fitting for the oil feed and a fitting for the oil pan.. for the return line. Crsx sells those too.

ok
I always went the safe route with my builds but there are always those budget builds that push oem parts to the extreme and some how they hold up..

Oh and i think just a boost gauge is all you will need.

check...
Ive been out of the turbo game for about a year, so if anyone has some updated or newer advice please correct me...


Agreed...

tnx so much for all the info guys freaking awesome

I found a badass deal on a brand new GT3582R kit everything hpc coated, also comes with buddy club turbo timer and vacuum block $4200 shipped

vs the EFR 7670 single scroll kit i was gonna get for $4900 without any HPC...

[MadLorEP3]

Do you think I should replace my CMC as well
I've reading about people recommending the em2 ex cmc...

[lbk02si]

Yes you need axles at that power! Dss 2.9's would be a good choice as they are rated at 475hp. Cc stg 4 is what full race recommends, I have it and like it a lot! Gauges, go with an a/f gauge (aem uego), boost gauge ( that also shows vacuum), and an oil pressure gauge. Catch can is a must, any brand should be fine. DONT keep your stock fuel line!!!! It's too small for 1000cc injectors! LSD quaife is awesome, I have it and love it. You should probably upgrade your valvetrain too, I used supertech valvesprings and retainers. I'm not sure about the k24's but with the k20z1 @400 whp you are in the neighborhood of needing to build the block. for reliability you should prob go ahead and get a new oem oil pump and water pump, plus new gaskets. Hose clamps, I like the ones nissan dealerships use/sell, ask for their fuel line hose clamps, they are just a better type of hose clamp. Turbo timers are also a good thing to get to make your turbo last longer. Boost controller, I use a greddy profec b, seems pretty simple so far.

[lbk02si]

Also hybrid racing's timing chain tensioner! And toda
Makes a heavy duty timing chain and balancer chain

[MadLorEP3]

Yes you need axles at that power! Dss 2.9's would be a good choice as they are rated at 475hp. Cc stg 4 is what full race recommends, I have it and like it a lot! Gauges, go with an a/f gauge (aem uego), boost gauge ( that also shows vacuum), and an oil pressure gauge. Catch can is a must, any brand should be fine. DONT keep your stock fuel line!!!! It's too small for 1000cc injectors! LSD quaife is awesome, I have it and love it. You should probably upgrade your valvetrain too, I used supertech valvesprings and retainers. I'm not sure about the k24's but with the k20z1 @400 whp you are in the neighborhood of needing to build the block. for reliability you should prob go ahead and get a new oem oil pump and water pump, plus new gaskets. Hose clamps, I like the ones nissan dealerships use/sell, ask for their fuel line hose clamps, they are just a better type of hose clamp. Turbo timers are also a good thing to get to make your turbo last longer. Boost controller, I use a greddy profec b, seems pretty simple so far.

DSS 2.9 check
a/f, boost (that shows vacuum), oil pressure gauge check
Do I need to upgrade my valvetrain, block, oil pump, water pump, now, I kinda wanted to keep the internals stock at least till after the summer, I think it should be fine since I only drive the ep once a month if that, probably less
I will be getting the Buddy club secu turbo timer and the hondata solenoid boost controller



Also hybrid racing's timing chain tensioner! And toda
Makes a heavy duty timing chain and balancer chain

do I need all this now???

tnx for your input bro

[MadLorEP3]

by the way, can I still run with my jdm front rebar or will that have to go?
Also, do I have to cut the bottom grill off my jdm front bumper?

[urthworm]

a/f are controlled on hondata so a gauge is a waste if you ask me. And i had 2 bad experiences with oil pressure gauges so id never buy one again.. ever.. even if there was a fire! (sorry just watched step brothers)

Valve train should be just fine unless your running aftermarket cams or reving the shit out of it.. and i say push the stock block as far as you want cause ive seen k24a2 and k20a2 in the 500whp range. If you blow it its just a good reason to build it.

Timing chain tenshioner is a good idea mainly for peace of mind.

I ran stock fuel lines on 1000cc just fine.. of couse the return line was aftermarket.

Quaife is the shit but if you can find a z1 lsd it will do just fine and save you alil cash.

I had the 2.9 dss axles and they never broke but like i said.. oem can last longer than you think.

quick story.. me and a friend both did turbo builds.. i did what everyone said to do to make it safe and he cut corners.. long story short his car ran better and longer than mine.

One more thing... your tune is going to be one of the most important parts of this build. Id probably still have a turbo ep if i could have found a good tuner in my area.

Im just telling you what i know from experience.

Cutting the rebar and bumper will depend on the size of intercooler.. i had to cut/trim mine with the full race intercooler.

[MadLorEP3]

a/f are controlled on hondata so a gauge is a waste if you ask me. And i had 2 bad experiences with oil pressure gauges so id never buy one again.. ever.. even if there was a fire! (sorry just watched step brothers)

ok so no need for a/f and oil gauges,

Valve train should be just fine unless your running aftermarket cams or reving the shit out of it.. and i say push the stock block as far as you want cause ive seen k24a2 and k20a2 in the 500whp range. If you blow it its just a good reason to build it.


sounds like a plan...


Timing chain tenshioner is a good idea mainly for peace of mind.


what brand chain tensioner should I get? did you mean the hybrid racing one? or an oem one?


I ran stock fuel lines on 1000cc just fine.. of couse the return line was aftermarket.


Quaife is the shit but if you can find a z1 lsd it will do just fine and save you alil cash.

I'll see if I can find one but i can get BNIB quaife for $750

I had the 2.9 dss axles and they never broke but like i said.. oem can last longer than you think.

ok so I guess since i barely drive the car I can stick with oem for now

quick story.. me and a friend both did turbo builds.. i did what everyone said to do to make it safe and he cut corners.. long story short his car ran better and longer than mine.

One more thing... your tune is going to be one of the most important parts of this build. Id probably still have a turbo ep if i could have found a good tuner in my area.

Im just telling you what i know from experience.

tnx for the insight bro...I will go to palmerblock at church for my next tune...


Cutting the rebar and bumper will depend on the size of intercooler.. i had to cut/trim mine with the full race intercooler.

Ok I guess I'll find out when I get it

[RHCP0801]

the only timing chain tensioner i would get is hybrid racing, its more expensive than all the others but well worth it from what i have heard, but they are always sold out so order that way in advance if you want it by the time you start the turbo build....i think they had some just come in stock like 2 days ago

[lbk02si]

a/f are controlled on hondata so a gauge is a waste if you ask me. And i had 2 bad experiences with oil pressure gauges so id never buy one again.. ever.. even if there was a fire! (sorry just watched step brothers)

Valve train should be just fine unless your running aftermarket cams or reving the shit out of it.. and i say push the stock block as far as you want cause ive seen k24a2 and k20a2 in the 500whp range. If you blow it its just a good reason to build it.

Timing chain tenshioner is a good idea mainly for peace of mind.

I ran stock fuel lines on 1000cc just fine.. of couse the return line was aftermarket.

Quaife is the shit but if you can find a z1 lsd it will do just fine and save you alil cash.

I had the 2.9 dss axles and they never broke but like i said.. oem can last longer than you think.

quick story.. me and a friend both did turbo builds.. i did what everyone said to do to make it safe and he cut corners.. long story short his car ran better and longer than mine.

One more thing... your tune is going to be one of the most important parts of this build. Id probably still have a turbo ep if i could have found a good tuner in my area.

Im just telling you what i know from experience.

Cutting the rebar and bumper will depend on the size of intercooler.. i had to cut/trim mine with the full race intercooler.

yes kpro controls a/f . the point of a gauge isn't to control anything its to monitor and warn you of dangerous conditions. an A/F gauge is an absolutely useful tool that can prevent damage to your engine. thats why you keep an eye on it during WOT and if you are leaning out you know to immediately back off the throttle.

z1 lsd???? they didn't come with an lsd

and he's ABSOLUTELY RIGHT about the tune!!! don't skimp on this at all man! i love how strong my car is now and i totally attribute it to the shop that did the tune!

[lbk02si]

DSS 2.9 check
a/f, boost (that shows vacuum), oil pressure gauge check
Do I need to upgrade my valvetrain, block, oil pump, water pump, now, I kinda wanted to keep the internals stock at least till after the summer, I think it should be fine since I only drive the ep once a month if that, probably less
I will be getting the Buddy club secu turbo timer and the hondata solenoid boost controller




do I need all this now???

tnx for your input bro

honestly if you do it all at the same time you'll probably save money in the long run, unless you are doing all the work yourself. but even then i consider all these neccesary items for a build like this. your build is virtually the exact same as mine except for the motor.

upgrading your valve train is a good idea if anything just in case you shift to the wrong gear. i would do the oil pump, and water pump now just for reliability and safety precautions. Like i said, i'm not sure of what the bottom end of a K24 is capable of handling, but if you can i would get the bottom end built. The buddy club turbo timer is what i went with as well and i like it so far. and yes i would DEFINITELY do the HR time chain tensioner and timing chain now. It would suck to do all the work turbo'ing it and then having something as small as a timing chain or tensioner failure ruin the motor.

[lbk02si]

by the way, can I still run with my jdm front rebar or will that have to go?
Also, do I have to cut the bottom grill off my jdm front bumper?

not sure about the jdm rebar, i just modified my usdm rebar to fit my jdm front bumper, but i don't believe they had to touch it in order to install the turbo. no you don't have to cut the bottom grill off, but it's going to be a tight fit.

[Guardian]

i didnt read this whole thread, too much rumor.

All you'll NEED for 400whp is injectors, get dw 1000s, intank walbro or the dw pump. 3+ map sensor, boost controller, exhaust, clutch, dont expect stage 4 to last long on 400. for a rats nest engine bay a vac block will help clean it up a bit, but if you really want it to look good tap the bottom of the im. Gauges, get at least a boost gauge, if you get a af gauge get a wideband or you can monitor af on your cpu. you will also need some vac line..

toda tct is a joke
you dont need a return for that power. and if you do, you definitely dont also need a inline pump or a second fuel filter.
No you CANT run a jdm rebar and you will need to cut the bumper and cant run fogs.
for your exhaust you will need to mod the cb to mate up, fr dp is v-band, that exhaust is 3bolt and i think its reduced to 2.5 where is bolts up anyways.
run a TRUE 3in kteller set up with a muffer of your liking or no muffler at all like someone i know:shady:
you do not need a fuel rail.
you do not need axles, it took me a shit load of lunches on slick with a twin disk making 500+whp to break a stockie. now i have type s axles and they are even stronger.. stronger then those dss axles too.
if you want to really rack up that credit card get some straight cut gears, cause they will break more then anything else over 400whp

edit: oh and those are good plugs, gap them down a bit though

[urthworm]

z1 lsd???? they didn't come with an lsd
Sorry ment z3..

And an a/f gauge isnt a bad idea, but this shit can add up so if you dont have the money for it right away dont worry about it.

And yeah what guardian said.

[Guardian]

Also you will need to re route your heater hoses or get rid of them. You will also need to heat wrap any wires close to heat or re route them away from it

[lbk02si]

Sorry ment z3..

And an a/f gauge isnt a bad idea, but this shit can add up so if you dont have the money for it right away dont worry about it.

And yeah what guardian said.

Is the z3 LSD a viscous type? But yea you could save some money doing that! IMO though, builds on this level shouldn't be started until you have everything you need, bc in the end you are just risking your motor. BUT since this isn't his dd, he might be ok.

[MadLorEP3]

the only timing chain tensioner i would get is hybrid racing, its more expensive than all the others but well worth it from what i have heard, but they are always sold out so order that way in advance if you want it by the time you start the turbo build....i think they had some just come in stock like 2 days ago

Ill get this tnx



yes kpro controls a/f . the point of a gauge isn't to control anything its to monitor and warn you of dangerous conditions. an A/F gauge is an absolutely useful tool that can prevent damage to your engine. thats why you keep an eye on it during WOT and if you are leaning out you know to immediately back off the throttle.

ok so still get an a/f gauge
have you guys heard of any nav/cd palyers that can also function as gauges, that would be the shit
i dont have a radio anymore just a block off plate. Im planning on putting gauges in this location.


z1 lsd???? they didn't come with an lsd

and he's ABSOLUTELY RIGHT about the tune!!! don't skimp on this at all man! i love how strong my car is now and i totally attribute it to the shop that did the tune!

yup wasnt planning to skip out on the tune...tnx...palmerblock Church...local or Do it Dyno iin LBC



honestly if you do it all at the same time you'll probably save money in the long run, unless you are doing all the work yourself. but even then i consider all these neccesary items for a build like this. your build is virtually the exact same as mine except for the motor.

upgrading your valve train is a good idea if anything just in case you shift to the wrong gear. i would do the oil pump, and water pump now just for reliability and safety precautions. Like i said, i'm not sure of what the bottom end of a K24 is capable of handling, but if you can i would get the bottom end built. The buddy club turbo timer is what i went with as well and i like it so far. and yes i would DEFINITELY do the HR time chain tensioner and timing chain now. It would suck to do all the work turbo'ing it and then having something as small as a timing chain or tensioner failure ruin the motor.

So I was thinking based on readings:
1. k20a2 oil pump (does it matter what year, brand new or used???)
2. New TSX timing chain
3. HR racing tensioner
4. Supertech valves springs and retainers ($250 shipped but not sure what weight springs, still on stock cams now.)
5. water pump (for ep or tsx???)



not sure about the jdm rebar, i just modified my usdm rebar to fit my jdm front bumper, but i don't believe they had to touch it in order to install the turbo. no you don't have to cut the bottom grill off, but it's going to be a tight fit.

ok



i didnt read this whole thread, too much rumor.

All you'll NEED for 400whp is injectors, get dw 1000s, intank walbro or the dw pump. 3+ map sensor, boost controller, exhaust, clutch, dont expect stage 4 to last long on 400. for a rats nest engine bay a vac block will help clean it up a bit, but if you really want it to look good tap the bottom of the im. Gauges, get at least a boost gauge, if you get a af gauge get a wideband or you can monitor af on your cpu. you will also need some vac line..


tap bottom of mani sounds like a plan
ill get the intank walbro
Yeah I will get the aem uego a/f gauge, not sure what brand of boost gauge to get yet


toda tct is a joke
you dont need a return for that power. and if you do, you definitely dont also need a inline pump or a second fuel filter.

ok so no more bosch inline pump
wasnt planning on the 2nd filter

No you CANT run a jdm rebar and you will need to cut the bumper and cant run fogs.
for your exhaust you will need to mod the cb to mate up, fr dp is v-band, that exhaust is 3bolt and i think its reduced to 2.5 where is bolts up anyways.
run a TRUE 3in kteller set up with a muffer of your liking or no muffler at all like someone i know:shady:

i guess ill sell my rebar
ok was gonna get jdm fogs but not anymore
so it wont be 3" at this connection
I will look into kteller


you do not need a fuel rail.
you do not need axles, it took me a shit load of lunches on slick with a twin disk making 500+whp to break a stockie. now i have type s axles and they are even stronger.. stronger then those dss axles too.

yeah so type s axles stronger than DSS...damn DSS go for like $800 stg 2.9...Ill save money by going type s
what year, or all same???
anything else besides dc5 axles that I would need to mate onto my ep???
I saw a set for $100


if you want to really rack up that credit card get some straight cut gears, cause they will break more then anything else over 400whp

No more credit cards, had 3, paid them off, only have 1 now with a low limit...just rocking my atm card now...Dont wanna fuck with debt no more...str8 cut gears too rich for my blood


edit: oh and those are good plugs, gap them down a bit though

what plugs???

[MadLorEP3]

Sorry ment z3..

And an a/f gauge isnt a bad idea, but this shit can add up so if you dont have the money for it right away dont worry about it.

And yeah what guardian said.

ok i guess ill get whatever is necessary now and just go from there
budget is about 10k for parts...damn this shit is adding up real quick...


Also you will need to re route your heater hoses or get rid of them. You will also need to heat wrap any wires close to heat or re route them away from it

Ill get that gold wrap that Ive seen people use and reroute as well


Is the z3 LSD a viscous type? But yea you could save some money doing that! IMO though, builds on this level shouldn't be started until you have everything you need, bc in the end you are just risking your motor. BUT since this isn't his dd, he might be ok.

yeah not daily
less than 500 miles in 2010...47k on old ep motor...even less on this new one

[MadLorEP3]

also contemplating deleting abs

is this stoopid

alot of turbo'd crsx guys do it...although not so sure if they do it to their dd

[lbk02si]

Not necessarily saying guardian is wrong but I find it very hard to believe type s axles are stronger than dss 2.9's

[urthworm]

Ive had to send my driver side dss axle back twice because it was making poping noises and now my passenger side is doing it.. And ive never even ran slicks on them. Before you spend 600ish on axles just stick with your stockers.

[Canuck Civic]

Aren't type-s axles 28mm and the Ep3's are 26mm? If your talking about the DSS making sounds I thought you could send it back and they fixed that issue.

[Siborg]

I put my stock axles back in after I got tired of the vibration from the 2.9's. Sent them back to be replaced/fixed. re-installed, vibration was less but still bothered me so stock axles it is....Huge waste for the price in my opinion. Axle splines are different between type-s and ep3/base rsx, so you will need to change hubs unless you have a type-s 5 lug conversion already.

[MadLorEP3]

tnx everyone
so at this point fuck dss axles
and i will stick with oem for now
and just get the rsx-s axles later, so I will just need type s hubs as well no need for rsx-s lcas



tnx again

got a badass deal on the turbo
should be in by next week...

[MadLorEP3]

so what about deleting ABS
yay or nay???

[lbk02si]

so what about deleting ABS
yay or nay???

I can think of good reasons for both. I think in the end it's gonna be personal preference due to what exactly you'll be using the car for.

[MadLorEP3]

yeah your right...
fuck it I'll just relocate the bastard...I was just being lazy

[urthworm]

Aren't type-s axles 28mm and the Ep3's are 26mm? If your talking about the DSS making sounds I thought you could send it back and they fixed that issue.

they have a one year warranty.. but who wants to keep sending that shit back every year. Im sending this last one in and if it starts popping again than im going back to stock.. Plus i dont even need them since im all motor now (well i dont think i ever needed them)

[urthworm]

I put my stock axles back in after I got tired of the vibration from the 2.9's. Sent them back to be replaced/fixed. re-installed, vibration was less but still bothered me so stock axles it is....Huge waste for the price in my opinion. Axle splines are different between type-s and ep3/base rsx, so you will need to change hubs unless you have a type-s 5 lug conversion already.

Is it possible to just change the outer spline instead of the hub?

[MadLorEP3]

what should i look for when i buy a used type s axles and hub
is there a way to see if the axles are no good?

[MadLorEP3]

ok so im thinking aout getting the AEM UEGO a/f guage, AEM oil pressure gauge and AEM boost 35 pis gauge
my question is, where do you guys put these. Is there a nice location where it can look oem. The one's I've seen so far looks out of place. Definitely don't like the ones on the pillar, thats just too much eye candy for the popos...any ideas? pics would be great...

[lbk02si]

Check out my build thread: http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?57781-lbk02si-s-BIG-BUILD-THREAD!!!!-(Journal-of-an-Si)

Towards the end there are pics of my mounted gauge that you can look at for reference.

[sleepy ep3]

i didnt read this whole thread, too much rumor.

All you'll NEED for 400whp is injectors, get dw 1000s, intank walbro or the dw pump. 3+ map sensor, boost controller, exhaust, clutch, dont expect stage 4 to last long on 400. for a rats nest engine bay a vac block will help clean it up a bit, but if you really want it to look good tap the bottom of the im. Gauges, get at least a boost gauge, if you get a af gauge get a wideband or you can monitor af on your cpu. you will also need some vac line..

toda tct is a joke
you dont need a return for that power. and if you do, you definitely dont also need a inline pump or a second fuel filter.
No you CANT run a jdm rebar and you will need to cut the bumper and cant run fogs.
for your exhaust you will need to mod the cb to mate up, fr dp is v-band, that exhaust is 3bolt and i think its reduced to 2.5 where is bolts up anyways.
run a TRUE 3in kteller set up with a muffer of your liking or no muffler at all like someone i know:shady:
you do not need a fuel rail.
you do not need axles, it took me a shit load of lunches on slick with a twin disk making 500+whp to break a stockie. now i have type s axles and they are even stronger.. stronger then those dss axles too.
if you want to really rack up that credit card get some straight cut gears, cause they will break more then anything else over 400whp

edit: oh and those are good plugs, gap them down a bit though

What he said. Don't pay attention to all these guys on here trying to get you to buy a bunch of shit you don't need. I would listen to people that have actually done it, and made the power, rather than all the guys that read magazines and forums to tell you what to do. If your stock timing setup has decent mileage (low) than don't replace it. Maybe do the Hybrid tct, but that's just a safeguard. Buy the gt35 turbo kit, as it is probably more complete, and judging from the turbo number with that full race kit, more responsive. I wouldnt buy axles until you start breaking them, until then, you are fixing shit that isnt broke, and spending big money in the process. Get an a/f gauge, and a boost gauge, in the defi brand. On the fuel pump issue, try to get what you can with 1000cc injectors, and an in tank pump. If you run out of fuel while tuning, THEN upgrade. People always try to get you to buy shit you don't need.

[heyvortek]

yea dont buy stuff u dont need. check out stubbys ride. should follow his setup. no need buyin this and that. keep us updated. im plannin on doin sidewinder setup so i mite see what u do so dont get expensive :)

[MadLorEP3]

tnx guys
appreciate the input
the spending has gotten out of hand already but I was just trying to pay more now and less later on...but yeah i dropped some things like axles, and valvetrain springs and retainers, even the HR tensioner
I dropped for now...

Turbo arriving friday afternoon, will post pics then ep going under the knife over the weekend but probably wont be entirely done with the bay until March....lots of plans for her

[MadLorEP3]

So I know that I will be getting a boost gauge with control
but I am not sure if I really need an A/F gauge
If I get a good tune, will I still need to monitor this? shouldnt this be taken cared of with a good tune.

I just dont like the look of too many gauges in the car, looks gey...
I just want a single gauge on the steering column
Im getting one custom made...

[urthworm]

You can set the lean protection on hondata.. that will cut the throttle faster than you can let off the gas. Honestly with 400hp your not going to looking at an a/f guage, your going to be trying to keep your car in a strait line.

So yes with a good tune it should be just fine, you can always hook up your lap top and do a datalog now and then to keep it in check.

[gtimportfanatic]

You can set the lean protection on hondata.. that will cut the throttle faster than you can let off the gas. Honestly with 400hp your not going to looking at an a/f guage, your going to be trying to keep your car in a strait line.

So yes with a good tune it should be just fine, you can always hook up your lap top and do a datalog now and then to keep it in check.

true story... i did the same shit.. my tuner is trusted so all i really ran was a boost guage and i set lean protection to 15:1 for 0.250 secs.. next time i do my turbo build im gonna run Tunerview

[MadLorEP3]

true story... i did the same shit.. my tuner is trusted so all i really ran was a boost guage and i set lean protection to 15:1 for 0.250 secs.. next time i do my turbo build im gonna run Tunerview

im thinking about getting the tunerview RD1 and since i dont have a radio at all I was gonna place it in that spot
but Im not sure if there is an option for boost on this thing

[AUTiger]

like I posted in the other thread. There is an option, all you do is select the MAP sensor and make a gauge from that.

[MadLorEP3]

Ok folks tnx for all the help
Just bought all the parts that I need for this build
She goes under tomorrow
Timeline is 2 months
Got the Tunerview rd1
A lot cheaper n cleaner than having the aem gauges that I liked

[heyvortek]

that tunerview looks interesting. gonna get an electronic boost controller too...would look super cool :)

[PAPITUYO326]

Ok folks tnx for all the help
Just bought all the parts that I need for this build
She goes under tomorrow
Timeline is 2 months
Got the Tunerview rd1
A lot cheaper n cleaner than having the aem gauges that I liked

Damn man, you moved quick! subscribing to this thing :D

[superchargedk20]

congrats man. Cant wait for the end results

[MadLorEP3]

thought i was done with the buying
it turns out still need some sort of 70 mm TB
mishimoto radiator
slim fans...

[urthworm]

who said you needed those? all your stock is just fine. Ive used my stock tb, fan and radiator for 3 different turbo setups and its still doing just fine with type r setup.
Someone is trying to make you spend way more than you need to. Those are all great to have.. but not a necessity. Your car will run just fine without them.

[PAPITUYO326]

^this.

You don't need to go all out to make it work. The turbo alone can overpower your stock motor if you let it. The add ons just let it happen sooner

(other than the radiator, that does help, but mostly in road racing apps)

[heyvortek]

damn just realized ur getting the EFR turbo....tell us how that goes. i wanted to get that but im already in the process of doing it the regular way. post very detailed pics cuz i wanna see how the fitment is. im very interested on how the turbo integrates everything as well..good luck man

[RHCP0801]

damn man, you move fast lol. I wish I had money to turbo my k24

[sleepy ep3]

I'm curious. Who keeps telling you that you HAVE to have all of these extra parts? I think that you are going to far. Save whatever money you can when you can because you never know what problems or issues will pop up before, during, or after the install. You don't need a tb, fans, radiator, for 400hp.

[lbk02si]

who said you needed those? all your stock is just fine. Ive used my stock tb, fan and radiator for 3 different turbo setups and its still doing just fine with type r setup.
Someone is trying to make you spend way more than you need to. Those are all great to have.. but not a necessity. Your car will run just fine without them.

AGREED!!!! And by keeping the stock TB your idle is a lot closer to stock too! Though the aluminum radiator is a good idea, especially for racing apps.

[MadLorEP3]

tnx guys Ill hold off on the rad, tb and fans

[TigerBallZ]

It's nice to see some the experienced people commenting rather than what you heard or read. As mentioned, you can skip the TB unless you're going for 600+whp. I've been on stock TB, radiator, alxes, cams, etc., and it's still making the power that is does with reliability.

[PAPITUYO326]

Clubrsx guys tend to like to see people go all out $$$-wise

[MadLorEP3]

tnx again fellas
spent so much already for this build
But I ordered every single part that I would need FOR NOW
Just waiting for them to arrive

[MadLorEP3]

started on the build today....pics will be posted on my member's page

can you guys tell me where you are mounting your intercooler
I was told on here that I could not use my jdm front rebar but is this is true whats gonna hold up the intercooler

[TigerBallZ]

I don't know about the JDM one, but I cut a good amount out to fit my USDM rebar. I don't have a top view but, here are couple when I put it together.

http://www.postimage.org/aV2R7a79.jpg

http://www.postimage.org/gxs7pU9.jpg

[MadLorEP3]

oh I see Oh I definitely need a rebar and it has to be the JDM rebar for me since i have the jdm front bumper

did you have to shave off any part of the inner bumper
and it seems that you didnt have to cut out the bottom black part of the bumper grill at all...tnx

[Guardian]

started on the build today....pics will be posted on my member's page

can you guys tell me where you are mounting your intercooler
I was told on here that I could not use my jdm front rebar but is this is true whats gonna hold up the intercooler

What do u think I'm lying? I speak fron experience, You can not use a jdm rebar. You can cut a usdm for ic's I've done it on mine and many other cars. They stick out far and are thick,you put the ic behind it. the Jdm bar is almost flush on the radiator and only about 2in thick. What do you think you can cut off that?

[MadLorEP3]

What do u think I'm lying? I speak fron experience, You can not use a jdm rebar. You can cut a usdm for ic's I've done it on mine and many other cars. They stick out far and are thick,you put the ic behind it. the Jdm bar is almost flush on the radiator and only about 2in thick. What do you think you can cut off that?

y do you sound so bitchy LOL...

I dont have the usdm rebar...so I will either weld the mounting bracket on the intercooler on the opposite side and mount it to the JDM rebar
or just source out a usdm rebar either way its not that big of a deal, contrary to what you may think your way of doing things are not the only way to do things LOL...
No need to get your panties all twisted

[MadLorEP3]

as a matter of fact, you strike me as an ARROGANT SOB...if you have anything more to say to me
you can say it to my face at the upcoming eibach or nisei...till then just stay off my threads...

[Guardian]

WOW, you're a fucking tool.

[MadLorEP3]

WOW, you're a fucking tool.

I really hope that I see ya at eibach or nisei...till then

[superchargedk20]

Easy guys. Guardian has been on here for a long time. Im sure he meant no disrespect towards u.

[gtimportfanatic]

y do you sound so bitchy LOL...

I dont have the usdm rebar...so I will either weld the mounting bracket on the intercooler on the opposite side and mount it to the JDM rebar
or just source out a usdm rebar either way its not that big of a deal, contrary to what you may think your way of doing things are not the only way to do things LOL...
No need to get your panties all twisted

dude y r u being disrespectful?.. he has everything u're askin about and hes telling you what does not work.. therefore answering the question.. no need for the big ass egos to get showing now.. if u seen his ar u wouldnt question ANYTHING scott says when he talks on this forum.. one of the pioneers on the site.. just relax n take the info bro.. plain n simple


if you dont understand what hes sayin its this... it makes no sense to run a jdm rebar because the IC wont fit... IF you had a USDM rebar.. the IC would go behind it after u hack some of it off.. basically u run a hacked US rebar.. in ur case JUST LIKE SCOTT's .. u have the JDM bumper.. so therefore .. no rebar

[MadLorEP3]

dude y r u being disrespectful?.. he has everything u're askin about and hes telling you what does not work.. therefore answering the question.. no need for the big ass egos to get showing now.. if u seen his ar u wouldnt question ANYTHING scott says when he talks on this forum.. one of the pioneers on the site.. just relax n take the info bro.. plain n simple

LOL...how his car looks or what he has done to his car is irrelevant...I don't value someone's credibility based solely on what they have done to their car...

Anyone on these forums can claim to be an expert on any subject but there always needs to be confirmation. He seemed bitchy that I didn't believe what he said the first time. I am not obligated to believe everything that anyone says. The bottom line is that I just didn't appreciate his tone and Im not just referring about this time, we've bumped heads before because of his arrogance.

There's really no point in dragging this any further I have said my piece and he has as well
anything further can be said in person....

NO ONE ELSE NEEDS TO ADD TO THIS...MOVE ON TO THE NEXT THREAD:thatsall:

[superchargedk20]

How can u tell someons tone on a forum? I wish i had magic powers like that

[MadLorEP3]

How can u tell someons tone on a forum? I wish i had magic powers like that

NO ONE ELSE NEEDS TO ADD TO THIS...MOVE ON TO THE NEXT THREAD:thatsall:

Maybe mods should just close this thread since people do not seem to understand what drop it means LOL...move on buddy

[MugenReplica]

CLOSED per OP's request.