Just picked up my K24A2...

[AKEP]

Do I need any of the plumbing on it, in conjunction with my EP3 plumbing, hose-wise? (Im already tapping the coolant port on the head)

I have the engine side of the harness, is there anything I SHOULD keep, like just in case?

I just wanna make sure. I haven't thrown anything away yet.

[ep3jd]

God damn, I'm jealous. Wish I had info for you.

Although the rad hoses swap over I believe

[AKEP]

those are chopped off. i guess im using my own bottom one? im picking up a Napa Upper hose tho.

btw this motor was pretty much chopped out of a TSX, as far as fuel, electric, and cooling go.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6016952&l=0786039c90&id=511081383
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6016955&l=afd292d70d&id=511081383
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6016968&l=6806d11baf&id=511081383

[RHCP0801]

you dont need any new hoses, all the ep coolant hoses swap right over. Only thing you need is the crv pass motor mount bracket, everything else is plug and play....you also need the karcepts adapter if your using the ep3 tb

did you read the swap threads? they have all the info you need

[AKEP]

yeah i read them a few times, i just wanna see if anything is worth salvaging. I guess it's all spare wire and hoses =]

[RHCP0801]

yea i took a lot of shit off mine

[ep3jd]

yea i took a lot of shit off mine

GET A LIFE




lol

[RHCP0801]

lol shutup n00b

[udontknowjack]

good shiet...!! :thumbu:

[sbRR]

Ahh I'm jealous! Good luck with the swap.

[AKEP]

jelly jelly jelly!

it looks so, normal, without the manifolds on. i think i'm going to have to run the RBB with it for now. then i'll probaby get an RBC later. or use the EPs IM. idk anymore.

[SIisaLowRydaEP3]

congrats on the pick up

[T_Virus]

just wondering, how much did you get your k24a2 for?

[Silvercard]

Good luck! Jealous!

[AKEP]

just wondering, how much did you get your k24a2 for?
1700 otd with a warantee. i talked him down but he was saying he wouldn't back the motor. fuck taxes.

[japarossa]

Congrats on the new motor but man thats alot of money for a k24a2. I just got mine with 60,000 kms (37,000 miles) for $900 to the door with 6 months warranty. I had to do some shopping around to find that price but they are out there.
Now boost the shit out of that thing!!!!!!!!

[AKEP]

yeah i know. i found them for 1200 but they were 04's and 400 miles away and didn't include shipping :mfrown: but i have an 06 like i wanted and beat my 1800 limit. and it was litterally down the street. easy to return.

[japarossa]

yeah i know. i found them for 1200 but they were 04's and 400 miles away and didn't include shipping :mfrown: but i have an 06 like i wanted and beat my 1800 limit. and it was litterally down the street. easy to return.

Down the street is reason enough, I would have to send mine back freight but I'm on the East Coast of Canada so if it doesn't come by frieght or by ship we don't get it lol.

[AKEP]

lol damn man. the east coast of canada seems so baren.

[RHCP0801]

i got my k24a2 for 1800 shipped to my door with a 30 day warranty....thats about the average price they go for

[japarossa]

lol damn man. the east coast of canada seems so baren.
lol I wouldn't say its baren but its no California. Every part on my car was either shipped from Japan or the U.S., you can't buy anything here for this car.

[AKEP]

so what your trying to say is, your a baller?

[japarossa]

LOL if spending more on shipping than you do on some parts then yeah but truthfully it sucks buying a $100 part and then paying another $125 for shipping, brokerage, duty, taxes and what ever charge UPS chooses to slap on top. Like the EMUSA kit, they charge an additional $250 to ship to Canada then another $100 at the door. So I would say its less than baller lol.

So have you started work on the K24a2 yet? What intake are you going with? I'm going to stick with the RBB for now

[AKEP]

*Long post warning*

I've stripped it down to sensors, oil pan, block, head, and valve cover. put the CRV bracket on. cleaned it once, about to clean it again. and about to tap the coolant port.

The reason i haven't tapped it yet was because it was a pain in the ass to find a -6 AN equivilant tap (3/8-18). So I found it, ordered the AN fittings, and I broke the first rule of any shop; check the package label and the part after your receive an order. SO, I THINK Summit Racing sent me a -4 AN to -10 AN reducer, instead of a -6 AN, as it quit obviously fits my 1/4-18 tap.

Here's a link to the fitting - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-491914-BL/

Also, when I was checking out the 3/8-18 tap, the tip doesn't fit by a hair, and I don't have a 37/64 or a 9/16 drill bit on hand.
I JUST figured this out, and I'm at work. I brought the taps and fitting with me to mess with. Now I gotta go home and check if the 1/4-18 will tap, which I don't think it will.

The way things are going, I think I'll have to use the EP's IM, as I'd like to use the K20 Hondata IMG while I have it, and the motor is out. I'll try to exchange it for a K24 one cause i'd like to go RBC in the future. But right now, It's in the air. I might send back the AN fittings and just run an unmodified RBC and see if THMotorsports will exchange me the K24 IMG.

So, after typing my thoughts out. I think I'm going to send back the fittings, sell the RBB, EP IM, the 310 Injectors with the harness, and buy an Unmodified RBC and Hondata K24 IMG, unless someone tells me the EP's IM is kinda worth a shit.

Sorry, it's been frustrating. Something so simple. -_-

PS. I couldn't find a 9/16 drill bit, but I found a step bit, and it stops just shy of being able to drill out a 9/16 hole. There's something in the coolant port thats in the way, and I don't think I should drill it. If anyone knows if I could spare about ~5mm to drill, let me know. I'll post pics when I get home.

[firmk20]

before u tap the block u should consider buying the hasport plate. http://hasport.com/store/index.php/accessories/intake/kinad.html

[AKEP]

i have, and i can't justify 100+ for it. its nice. but RBC+IMG+HIA= god knows how much rad support i'll have left.

[RHCP0801]

i would stick with the rbb or the prb before you go with the rbc, rbc will rob you of tq and power unless you start putting cams in it or boost it later on. The rrc is the best manifold for boosted or built k24a2's but cost $350

[AKEP]

i am boosting.

[firmk20]

the problem with tapping it is if u mess up u will have to spend a ton of money to try and repair it. Ive heard stories of people having leaks and it is annoying. Spend the money so u will have piece of mind. Try to avoid shortcuts.

[AKEP]

i dont need to spend alot of money, i know how to repair a bad aluminum tap. thank you for your concern though =]

[RHCP0801]

get the rrc mani than

[AKEP]

mehbeh.

[AKEP]

I wanna post my progess in here, but im going to continue it in my rides section, seems more appropriate.