Help!! tsx rbb to prb(ep3) manifold swap, problems starting

[that1blackhatch]

so i just got done tapping the coolant port this week and swapping to my si manifold on my 05 k24a2. after finishing up with everything tonight i go to start the car for the first time to let it warm up and get the air out of the cooling system, but it wouldnt fire for some reason. it smells like unburnt fuel as im cranking it and it will almost turn over then just stumbles(never cranks over completly, second i let off the key it stops) along with taping the coolant port i by-passed the coolant on the tb(i left the bungs on the tb open do i need to hose those two fittings together also? any help will be greatly appreaciated i will post some pics tomorrow

[2004ep3hatch]

are you sure the coils are working? Since it smells like unburnt gas. make sure your injector wires are getting power as well. check the fuel pump fuse. Just thinking of things. when you took the fuel rail off did you pull the pump fuse to get the pressure out before removing?

You should not have to close the ports on the TB. They are just for coolant but you get moisture inside. that's about all.

[japarossa]

Has it run since you swapped the motor or this was the first start up since the motor went in?

[that1blackhatch]

Has it run since you swapped the motor or this was the first start up since the motor went in?

I have dd'd this motor for 2 years with the stock rbb mani i baught a tsx hondata gasket so its blocking off the breather port or whatever thats called for the fuel injectors i need to order the stock k20a3 gasket for it to work right...



are you sure the coils are working? Since it smells like unburnt gas. make sure your injector wires are getting power as well. check the fuel pump fuse. Just thinking of things. when you took the fuel rail off did you pull the pump fuse to get the pressure out before removing?

You should not have to close the ports on the TB. They are just for coolant but you get moisture inside. that's about all.

thanks for your input and good advice i checked all those mentioned and everything check out, thanks for the ideas... then i figured the only thing thats new is the gasket and i should have compared the gasket to the mani before i just threw it on

[2004ep3hatch]

Ok

What's this gasket your talking about? I can't visualize what gasket lol. Intake mani gasket?

[that1blackhatch]

Ok

What's this gasket your talking about? I can't visualize what gasket lol. Intake mani gasket?

ya the hondata heatshield gasket, since im not running any coolant through the manifold anymore to bring down intake temps and then run a cam, but the vacuum holes on the two manifolds are in different locations so you need the gasket for the manifold your using not the block but i didnt really research before i went or thought about it when i was at the shop buying the gasket...

[talonXracer]

I have dd'd this motor for 2 years with the stock rbb mani i baught a tsx hondata gasket so its blocking off the breather port or whatever thats called for the fuel injectors i need to order the stock k20a3 gasket for it to work right...

thanks for your input and good advice i checked all those mentioned and everything check out, thanks for the ideas... then i figured the only thing thats new is the gasket and i should have compared the gasket to the mani before i just threw it on

That will have no real impact at all, it is called the Air Assist Valve. I have had it disabled for over 4 years on my engine, it allows unmetered air to enter the engine when coolant temps are below 147 degrees. I have had zero issues down to well under negative 10 degrees F.

Double check the IAC, even a couple of days of inactivity can allow a dirty IACV to stick closed.

[that1blackhatch]

That will have no real impact at all, it is called the Air Assist Valve. I have had it disabled for over 4 years on my engine, it allows unmetered air to enter the engine when coolant temps are below 147 degrees. I have had zero issues down to well under negative 10 degrees F.

Double check the IAC, even a couple of days of inactivity can allow a dirty IACV to stick closed.

i just went on vacation so i dont have the car available to diagnose more till this sunday when i get back but i would like to get all ideas possible so when i get back i can get staight to diagnosing... i have never had a problem with my idle fluctuating ever before or anything of that sort and ill try and clean it when i get back but i looked at my tps % on kpro while i was cranking and even tried to start it with 5-10% throttle and it still would not support itself once the key was let go... wouldnt that cancel out the iac being an issue? im not a k24 genious, but from my understanding doesnt the iac just let air bypass the butterfly for idling only? so if i cranked it will giving it a little throttle shouldnt it have started and wound up in rpms? thanks for chiming in talon and for all ur help... more advice will be greatly appreciated

[that1blackhatch]

i attached a datalog of me trying to start the car and the calibration im running, it is still doing the same thing... the map sensor on the datalog is reading 900 something PSI, ive never noticed what the map reads under starting but im guessing this probably isnt normal? could my map sensor have gone bad inbetween the time i was swapping manifolds and putting in a new throw out bearing?

here is a video of me trying to start it...watch the rpm's as it trys to pull it self up to idle then as its firing up i let go of the key and it goes dead...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/thestrokeslover18/private/th_video-2011-02-14-17-27-35.jpg (http://s102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/thestrokeslover18/private/?action=view&current=video-2011-02-14-17-27-35.mp4)

and some pics if u can spot something...

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/thestrokeslover18/private/P2140108.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/thestrokeslover18/private/P2140102.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/thestrokeslover18/private/P2140104.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/thestrokeslover18/private/P2140106.jpg
http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m83/thestrokeslover18/private/P2140107.jpg

[that1blackhatch]

bump, really need to get this thing running, wheel bearings on the dd are humming like a mofo and the ep has to be running for me to change the bearings... HELP!!! im going to clean the IACV right now...

[that1blackhatch]

cleaned the IAC and its still doing the same thing... would kpro recognize a bad sensor before even starting with just the key on? im beginning to think either the map or the iacv sensor is bad... could they make the car not start? could kpro randomly go bad? everything on my lap top is reading correctly

EDIT: So I know I put everything back together correctly, and since the map was reading 935 psi and it was showing a constant signal of that exact number in kpro as I dataloged while starting it. I figured something had to be up, so I uplugged the sensor and tried starting it with part throttle and it fired up, its running super rich and tryed to idle for a few seconds then fell flat so I will be getting a new map sensor tomorrow or Friday and see it that solves it (pretty sure that its a bad sensor)

[Deadphishy]

Yup, thats a bad map sensor. Go to autozone and get the duralast. It's a Denso same as OEM but $40