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RedSiBaron
02-20-2011, 12:47 PM
EPHATCHERS!!!

Since we are starting to get a growing number of small threads, that are typically 1 post right/wrong answer threads, that don't need a discussion attached, I felt we needed this thread. Plus there are always those questions that it seems like EVERY new member asks. Hopefully this thread can act as a catch can for these types of threads.

RULES:

1) DO NOT LITTER UP THIS THREAD. Unnecessary, or excessive chat will be cleaned up if it gets out of hand...essentially use your heads, on topic discussion is acceptable, but keep off topic conversation to PMs and off-topic.

2) TRY NOT TO POST UNLESS YOU ARE ASKING A QUESTION OR ANSWERING ONE! This will help maintain rule #1.

3) FLAMING WILL NOT BE TOLERATED IN THIS THREAD This thread is to help with small, common, quick, and DUMB questions, so don't come in here if you don't want to read them, and dont get pissed because a member doesnt know the answer. In a perfect world we would do this on the entire site, but thats not the case.

4) This is for small/quick/common/dumb questions. IE: "What should I buy next? Why won't my car start? What is camber? How many quarts of oil should I fill up? Why is my transmission light on :mbiggrin:? Where can I order this part?" etc

MOST IMPORTANTLY, think before you post a question that easily could have been found using the search feature. If you think your question deserves its own thread, please use the appropriate section.

I hope this thread will encourage more members to feel welcome, and help them learn more about our EPs

I borrowed this thread idea from zilvia.net since it's my favorite thread over there and ive learned more from it than anything else on that site, and hope we can make the same use of it here.

have fun and play nice :hay:

Type_R_Nammer
02-20-2011, 02:49 PM
Quick question.

If i were to buy a replica Mugen spoiler overseas, the outer mounting points have to be shaved down right?

Passenger
02-20-2011, 03:06 PM
Quick question.

If i were to buy a replica Mugen spoiler overseas, the outer mounting points have to be shaved down right?

yessssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss ssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssss sssssssssssssssssss

Type_R_Nammer
02-20-2011, 03:14 PM
Thanks for the quick response. This thread came quite handy already :)

yyi
02-20-2011, 03:18 PM
so if i run 245's with insane neg camber and slammed. will i rub???

just kidding!!!!! Hopefully this thread will reduce the said "1 post right/wrong" trend.

but 4srs, will i rub? :mconfused:

RedSiBaron
02-20-2011, 04:11 PM
so if i run 245's with insane neg camber and slammed. will i rub???

just kidding!!!!! Hopefully this thread will reduce the said "1 post right/wrong" trend.

but 4srs, will i rub? :mconfused:

My thought is yes most definitely, you'll need a roll and prolly a pull...I mean I rub with 205s in the rear unless I run camber


Glad people are taking to the thread, ill sticky it if people are getting use out of it

RedSiBaron
02-20-2011, 06:54 PM
Bump for exposure...

whatsvtec
02-20-2011, 06:57 PM
Bump for exposure...
Likin' that idea, and the idea of this thread
Is it cool if simple question threads just get funneled here? Might clean things up all around and help people get some definitive answers.

ttttrigg3r
02-20-2011, 07:58 PM
Removing rear seats. How easy is it to remove and install rear seats? Is it just bolts and screws or will I have to break and cut stuff? After taking it out, will it be a pain to put back?

usedep3
02-20-2011, 09:31 PM
Removing rear seats. How easy is it to remove and install rear seats? Is it just bolts and screws or will I have to break and cut stuff? After taking it out, will it be a pain to put back?

removing the rear seats in cake. just start unbolting stuff until you get it out. it's fairly easy bc i tried it years ago when i first got the ep. at that time i was sacred to even attempt an oil change. putting it back in is even easier after you take the seats out bc you know where everything should go. if there isnt one already this would be an excellent opportunity to write up a simple DIY

siege911
02-20-2011, 09:57 PM
so if i run 245's with insane neg camber and slammed. will i rub???

just kidding!!!!! Hopefully this thread will reduce the said "1 post right/wrong" trend.

but 4srs, will i rub? :mconfused:

So expanding on this... Will 245's rub on a stock height ep3 (stock wheel size as well)? Thinking about running 245 r-comps in the future in H-stock.

Cool idea... kinda like an ephatch "Shoutbox" of questions lol.

ShadowEP3
02-20-2011, 10:26 PM
how come i doesnt VTech? :shrug:

yyi
02-20-2011, 10:48 PM
how come i doesnt VTech? :shrug:

YOU CANNOT HAS THIS VTECH SON!! YOU CANNOT HANDLE IT =P
http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv82/yyipu/Randoms/PP2295.jpg

heyvortek
02-21-2011, 04:59 AM
technically u does vtec...just a crappy version..

RedSiBaron
02-21-2011, 09:16 AM
Trouble makers...

BeaterEP
02-21-2011, 09:29 AM
So after I get all my current engine BS taken care of, next job is brakes, which are in pretty bad need.
I've never jacked all four corners before, just front or back as needed.
Question is, how do you get all four corners on to stands safely? Front first? Back first?
One corner at a time? :shrug:

siege911
02-21-2011, 09:38 AM
So after I get all my current engine BS taken care of, next job is brakes, which are in pretty bad need.
I've never jacked all four corners before, just front or back as needed.
Question is, how do you get all four corners on to stands safely? Front first? Back first?
One corner at a time? :shrug:

I would do fronts first then backs first, but why would you need to get all 4 in the air at once? Can't you do the front brakes first, then the rear? I just redid all 4 rotors/pads on my '05 and I did fronts first, then went to the backs and had no issues (well, except for those stupid set screws that I had to drill out). I would recommend doing it like that unless you need to jack the entire thing up at once.

BeaterEP
02-21-2011, 10:09 AM
Was thinking I'd try a gravity bleed this go-round, just cuz :mbiggrin:
So I'd like to have all 4 corners up at once.

Next question;
K20A3 OEM TCT (http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=|009&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=3DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CAMSHAFT-CAM+CHAIN&vinsrch=no&ListAll=&prdrefno=&act=&count=0&quantity=0)
K24A1 OEM TCT (http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=|009&catcgry1=CR-V&catcgry2=2007&catcgry3=5DR+EX+2WD&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=CAMSHAFT-CAM+CHAIN&vinsrch=no&ListAll=&prdrefno=&act=&count=0&quantity=0)
The CR-V tensioner is about $20 cheaper, any reason I can't use it instead of the A3 OEM?

...maybe this isn't quite the kinda thing that this thread is meant for, but I'm tryin' to get parts ordered ASAP so was looking for quickness! :mbiggrin:

SamuraiSi
02-21-2011, 10:18 AM
removing the rear seats in cake. just start unbolting stuff until you get it out. it's fairly easy bc i tried it years ago when i first got the ep. at that time i was sacred to even attempt an oil change. putting it back in is even easier after you take the seats out bc you know where everything should go. if there isnt one already this would be an excellent opportunity to write up a simple DIY

I agree. I did this a few years a go to move a table and some chairs, but I had to remove the front passenger seat as well.

Note: If you remove any of the front seats, your SRS light will come on. Theres a walk through on how to reset it. I've been too lazy to do it though.
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?43930-DIY-SRS-light-reset

SamuraiSi
02-21-2011, 10:22 AM
my dumb question:

what do the different color user names mean? :mconfused:

BeaterEP
02-21-2011, 10:27 AM
Lime=site sponsor
Deep Sky Blue=new member
Navy=regular member

that's all I know :mbiggrin:

RedSiBaron
02-21-2011, 10:53 AM
Was thinking I'd try a gravity bleed this go-round, just cuz :mbiggrin:
So I'd like to have all 4 corners up at once.

Next question;
K20A3 OEM TCT (http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=|009&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2003&catcgry3=3DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=CAMSHAFT-CAM+CHAIN&vinsrch=no&ListAll=&prdrefno=&act=&count=0&quantity=0)
K24A1 OEM TCT (http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?hidSwitch=Switch&hidIrno=|009&catcgry1=CR-V&catcgry2=2007&catcgry3=5DR+EX+2WD&catcgry4=KA5AT&catcgry5=CAMSHAFT-CAM+CHAIN&vinsrch=no&ListAll=&prdrefno=&act=&count=0&quantity=0)
The CR-V tensioner is about $20 cheaper, any reason I can't use it instead of the A3 OEM?

...maybe this isn't quite the kinda thing that this thread is meant for, but I'm tryin' to get parts ordered ASAP so was looking for quickness! :mbiggrin:

Id just go with the a3 tensioner, even if it did work but was different it wasn't engineered for a different engine, and doing it the right way is worth $20...have you checked the price on it from hondaautomotiveparts?


my dumb question:

what do the different color user names mean? :mconfused:

We have a sticky on this right here...a couple of them have changed, but other than those that were already mentioned they should be tue same...plus that mod list is outdated

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?43897-Why-did-my-screen-name-change-color-What-do-the-different-colors-mean

ShadowEP3
02-21-2011, 11:00 AM
i wanna have a toothpick sized ban stick :mfrown:



regardless..username colors all equal one thing:

gheys

BeaterEP
02-21-2011, 11:05 AM
Yeah Baron, you're probably right. :mbiggrin:
This was just kind of an unexpected...well, untimely project, so I really need to control cost as much as possible.
Tried hondapartscheap, they're within about $1 of hondaautomotiveparts.
...feckin' shipping/handling is always a rip-off either way. :mad:

DRP967
02-21-2011, 12:01 PM
I heard from a friend that the front stock USDM rebar will fit with the JDM 04-05 bumper. Can anyone confirm this?

He/she/it said that the 02-03 JDM bumpers are smaller than the 04-05 JDM bumpers...thought they were the same size?

Thanks

SamuraiSi
02-21-2011, 12:12 PM
i'm removing the throttle body from the intake mani, i got all the necessary bolts removed, but i can't get it out due to the gasket holding it to the mani. how do i get this off. my main goal is to get to the starter so i'll have to do it again for the intake gasket. yes i'm a noob, but i'm learning :mbiggrin:

RedSiBaron
02-21-2011, 12:13 PM
I heard from a friend that the front stock USDM rebar will fit with the JDM 04-05 bumper. Can anyone confirm this?

He/she/it said that the 02-03 JDM bumpers are smaller than the 04-05 JDM bumpers...thought they were the same size?

Thanks

punch your friend in the face for talking out his ass...

you still need the low profile type r rebar from everything ive come to understand...does your friend even have an ep or the 04/05 bumpers?

RedSiBaron
02-21-2011, 12:14 PM
i'm removing the throttle body from the intake mani, i got all the necessary bolts removed, but i can't get it out due to the gasket holding it to the mani. how do i get this off. my main goal is to get to the starter so i'll have to do it again for the intake gasket. yes i'm a noob, but i'm learning :mbiggrin:

if its never been removed it can be sticky, if you have a rubber mallet give it a thump, or fold up some cloth and thump it softly, it should come off the manifold...you should be able to remove the intake manifold without removing the TB though iirc...maybe just remove the whole shebang

SamuraiSi
02-21-2011, 12:22 PM
if its never been removed it can be sticky, if you have a rubber mallet give it a thump, or fold up some cloth and thump it softly, it should come off the manifold...you should be able to remove the intake manifold without removing the TB though iirc...maybe just remove the whole shebang

thanks, i had thought about removing the intake manifold without removing the TB but i noticed that there's 1 bolt that i can't get to without removing the TB. it's the bottom right bolt.

RHCP0801
02-21-2011, 12:25 PM
i was able to take off the intake mani without removing the tb

RedSiBaron
02-21-2011, 01:17 PM
thanks, i had thought about removing the intake manifold without removing the TB but i noticed that there's 1 bolt that i can't get to without removing the TB. it's the bottom right bolt.

i cant remember anything about that off the top of my head, but you should be able to get at it with something...i may of had to use an extension or open wrench or something to get that off...you can do it, but try giving the TB a thump

shanewdude
02-21-2011, 04:25 PM
my dumb question:

what do the different color user names mean? :mconfused:

Site Sponsor member = Green
"New member" = Blue
Reg mods = Orange
Super mods = Blue
Assistant Admins = Gray
Admins = Red
ROTM members = Pink

Regular members are dark blue.

DRP967
02-21-2011, 06:28 PM
punch your friend in the face for talking out his ass...

you still need the low profile type r rebar from everything ive come to understand...does your friend even have an ep or the 04/05 bumpers?

Thanks for the clarification. He has a 04-05 TW with JDM bumpers front and rear. But with the front he is not running a rebar at the moment.

Hasbro
02-21-2011, 07:41 PM
But with the front he is not running a rebar at the moment.

Hmmm, I would think that the rebar is an integral contributor to the structural rigidity of the chassis.

RedSiBaron
02-21-2011, 07:42 PM
Thanks for the clarification. He has a 04-05 TW with JDM bumpers front and rear. But with the front he is not running a rebar at the moment.

Hahahahaha if you could run the usdm id of expected him to you know, just leave it when he put the bumper on...

PatrickJamesYu
02-22-2011, 01:55 AM
Thought I'd post here incase I get flamed for starting a new thread.
I'm confused as to knowing where to cut into the plastic to install my C-Pillar bar
Also, is there an existing place under the plastic that is there for me to bolt it to?
Like a bolt or nut that is there?

Thanks guys!

thakid
02-22-2011, 02:39 AM
To clean up the site more. Why don't you guys delete old threads that are no longer in use?

Distance
02-22-2011, 02:50 AM
Thought I'd post here incase I get flamed for starting a new thread.
I'm confused as to knowing where to cut into the plastic to install my C-Pillar bar
Also, is there an existing place under the plastic that is there for me to bolt it to?
Like a bolt or nut that is there?

Thanks guys!

You have to guess on where to cut the plastic. You will be reusing the bolt to the seat belt tensioner. Hopefully that's the correct term.

Also a c pillar is a useless mod. It doesn't do anything besides using it to hang my dry cleaners.

BeaterEP
02-22-2011, 07:10 AM
To clean up the site more. Why don't you guys delete old threads that are no longer in use?

Because those old thread can still have valuable info in `em. :thumbu:

thakid
02-22-2011, 11:21 AM
I'm talking about the ones with a single post or none at all. I nknow there's atleast a 100 right now that are useless.

PatrickJamesYu
02-22-2011, 01:29 PM
You have to guess on where to cut the plastic. You will be reusing the bolt to the seat belt tensioner. Hopefully that's the correct term.

Also a c pillar is a useless mod. It doesn't do anything besides using it to hang my dry cleaners.

Thats exaclty why I want it haha
I move a lot of music equipment and I was gonna hang cables and stuff from it
I got one for free so decided to try to put it to use

whatsvtec
02-22-2011, 01:56 PM
Thats exaclty why I want it haha
I move a lot of music equipment and I was gonna hang cables and stuff from it
I got one for free so decided to try to put it to use

What kind of music equip do you move? Wouldn't a bar get in the way of speaker cabinets?

I know I fit my guitar 4x12 and bass 4x10 in my car before, definitely wouldn't have been able to with a c-pillar bar

PatrickJamesYu
02-22-2011, 05:23 PM
What kind of music equip do you move? Wouldn't a bar get in the way of speaker cabinets?
I know I fit my guitar 4x12 and bass 4x10 in my car before, definitely wouldn't have been able to with a c-pillar bar

No cabs, but just guitars, stands, rack units, pedalboard, etc.
Smaller accessories

SamuraiSi
02-23-2011, 09:20 AM
came across these and was wondering if it's worth the price. don't know what the gain would be. it claims a slight increase in hp with the intake mani gasket, but one can't believe everything one reads online. or if i should just stick with the regular gaskets from advance auto or honda. i currently have an AEM V2 intake and Megan Racing headers. thanks

http://www.clubrsx.com/clubep3/HD-K20A-IMG.html

http://www.clubrsx.com/clubep3/PRR-P142.html

http://www.clubrsx.com/clubep3/PRR-P1420.html

sleepy ep3
02-23-2011, 09:40 AM
Why do hot dog buns come in counts of 8 and hot dogs come in counts of ten?

DRP967
02-23-2011, 10:26 AM
Hmmm, I would think that the rebar is an integral contributor to the structural rigidity of the chassis.


Hahahahaha if you could run the usdm id of expected him to you know, just leave it when he put the bumper on...

Yeah I agree but its temporary, it will go on eventually he/she says.

Yes

DRP967
02-23-2011, 10:28 AM
Thought I'd post here incase I get flamed for starting a new thread.
I'm confused as to knowing where to cut into the plastic to install my C-Pillar bar
Also, is there an existing place under the plastic that is there for me to bolt it to?
Like a bolt or nut that is there?

Thanks guys!

There was a template around somewhere a while back...just print it out if you can find it lol search or something and place it on the pillar cover thingies/trace/then cut. Anyways I would take the covers off and just see where the bolt area is in relation to the cover...from there cut a clean square/circle. And yes there is a spot to mount the bar once you remove the plastic...its the seat belt bolts. Someone correct me if I am mistaken. Good luck and bump for more help if you need it.

ShadowEP3
02-23-2011, 10:30 AM
why do fools fall in love?

also: should i change my username?..who wants to pick it?

Passenger
02-23-2011, 10:40 AM
why do fools fall in love?

also: should i change my username?..who wants to pick it?

change it to Driver

usedep3
02-23-2011, 10:50 AM
why do fools fall in love?

also: should i change my username?..who wants to pick it?

i want to change mine too. can i haz 'ShadowEP3'? its so mysterious

they fall in love bc they're fools

PatrickJamesYu
02-23-2011, 02:50 PM
tell me why my cars front suspension creaks?
I had skunk2 springs, I just swapped to ground control sleeves.
I greased the top hats and the creaking's still there.

And if there is a link, post?
Thanks

codyep3
02-23-2011, 03:29 PM
will I need to do anything extra with 16x7 rims 43 offset, 205x50x16 if i drop my car on Progress springs? (1.8 drop front 1.5 rear)?

codyep3
02-23-2011, 03:31 PM
Why do hot dog buns come in counts of 8 and hot dogs come in counts of ten?

this? lol!

sleepy ep3
02-23-2011, 03:46 PM
tell me why my cars front suspension creaks?
I had skunk2 springs, I just swapped to ground control sleeves.
I greased the top hats and the creaking's still there.

And if there is a link, post?
Thanks

It's because the spring doesn't have a turn-able base or top hat. Whenever you turn, the spring is having to turn with the suspension. It's hard to explain really. I had the same trouble on 2 suspensions before I went with Tein SS

Lyndon
02-23-2011, 03:49 PM
will I need to do anything extra with 16x7 rims 43 offset, 205x50x16 if i drop my car on Progress springs? (1.8 drop front 1.5 rear)?

doubt it. that's almost stock offset, and when i had 205x55x16 on oem wheels, i had a bit of space between the tire and fenders all around.
I was on skunk2 springs though, so i'm not sure how that compares to progress springs

sleepy ep3
02-23-2011, 03:50 PM
why do fools fall in love?

also: should i change my username?..who wants to pick it?

You should go with
(my top 5)
Barf Licker
Turb burgerler
Shaggcarpet
Motor-bbbbboatin
Or else.

Or you could always go with some lame, unimaginative vtec reference like everyone likes to do.

Type_R_Nammer
02-23-2011, 06:52 PM
What is the bulb size that goes behind the climate control?

One of them burnt out :(

codyep3
02-23-2011, 09:54 PM
doubt it. that's almost stock offset, and when i had 205x55x16 on oem wheels, i had a bit of space between the tire and fenders all around.
I was on skunk2 springs though, so i'm not sure how that compares to progress springs

i thought skunk2 springs were 2inch drop all around. I was 99.9% sure I would be fine, but I just wanted another oppinion

RHCP0801
02-23-2011, 10:00 PM
will I need to do anything extra with 16x7 rims 43 offset, 205x50x16 if i drop my car on Progress springs? (1.8 drop front 1.5 rear)?

stock rims are 42 offset, you wont have any problem at all

codyep3
02-23-2011, 10:01 PM
when debadging the front SI emblem, do I just pull up the metal looking spikes? Or what?

RedSiBaron
02-23-2011, 10:09 PM
i thought skunk2 springs were 2inch drop all around. I was 99.9% sure I would be fine, but I just wanted another oppinion

you may rub in the rear without a little camber...i do with the same setup

RedSiBaron
02-23-2011, 10:11 PM
when debadging the front SI emblem, do I just pull up the metal looking spikes? Or what?

spikes? you mean the pressed over the plastic "nipple" metal disks with slits cut to form teeth? ya just pull those...:shrug:

Lyndon
02-23-2011, 10:19 PM
i thought skunk2 springs were 2inch drop all around. I was 99.9% sure I would be fine, but I just wanted another oppinion

well if skunk2 springs are 2 inch drop all around, then you'll be fine no problem. i also had a fatter tire set up than you do right now, so i'm 100% sure you'll be fine

Lyndon
02-23-2011, 10:19 PM
when debadging the front SI emblem, do I just pull up the metal looking spikes? Or what?

when i debadged mine, i just ripped it straight out, hahahah just do that :P

doubledouble
02-23-2011, 10:25 PM
best way to clean and dry AEM v2 intake cone?

Tap to remove dust and dirt. Spray with water. Dry. Maybe use hair dryer? Re-install?

codyep3
02-23-2011, 10:37 PM
spikes? you mean the pressed over the plastic "nipple" metal disks with slits cut to form teeth? ya just pull those...:shrug:

i just didn't want to do anything that would be irreversible if I didn't like the look. Thanks though

Lyndon
02-23-2011, 11:05 PM
hahah the badge will go right back into the grill, but the adhesive might not stick anymore

RedSiBaron
02-24-2011, 12:58 AM
i just didn't want to do anything that would be irreversible if I didn't like the look. Thanks though

Then do it my way
its simple

BeaterEP
02-24-2011, 01:17 PM
Here's a fun one;
picking up used K24A1 cams for use as replacements for my galled-ass K20A3 cams. (Same cams, different name, so they fit, not to worry! :D)
Question is, do the valve lash specs change? I mean, they should be the same, right? It's like putting some A3 cams in there, so no change to specs...right? :shrug:

codyep3
02-24-2011, 01:26 PM
hahah the badge will go right back into the grill, but the adhesive might not stick anymore

there wasnt any adhesive. I just just pulled it off and the backings broke off. All good and I love the look

SkareKrow
02-24-2011, 01:30 PM
best way to clean and dry AEM v2 intake cone?

Tap to remove dust and dirt. Spray with water. Dry. Maybe use hair dryer? Re-install?

I dont know if a hair dryer will affect it. Try it let us know. I dont have a V2 either, I have the AEM CAI, I just tap it so it removes the dust then I just put it in a 2 gallon bucket of HOT water and I twist it Vigorously. Then I let it air Dry. Should be good after that.

Heitzke
02-24-2011, 01:34 PM
Here's a fun one;
picking up used K24A1 cams for use as replacements for my galled-ass K20A3 cams. (Same cams, different name, so they fit, not to worry! :D)
Question is, do the valve lash specs change? I mean, they should be the same, right? It's like putting some A3 cams in there, so no change to specs...right? :shrug:

Valve lash should be identical, I'm also kind of surprised that the cams are the exact same

SamuraiSi
02-24-2011, 01:38 PM
came across these and was wondering if it's worth the price. don't know what the gain would be. it claims a slight increase in hp with the intake mani gasket, but one can't believe everything one reads online. or if i should just stick with the regular gaskets from advance auto or honda. i currently have an AEM V2 intake and Megan Racing headers. thanks

http://www.clubrsx.com/clubep3/HD-K20A-IMG.html

http://www.clubrsx.com/clubep3/PRR-P142.html

http://www.clubrsx.com/clubep3/PRR-P1420.html

anyone?

Heitzke
02-24-2011, 01:43 PM
anyone?

If you're doing something that would require you to remove the IM, I'd throw a hondata gasket on there. I'm not sure I'd go through the trouble of taking it all apart just to put the gasket in there though, I'd spend the money/time elsewhere.

yyi
02-24-2011, 01:48 PM
Wheres the Idler pulley? is this the same as the autotensioner pulley? Whats the recommended mileage of replacement?

SamuraiSi
02-24-2011, 01:53 PM
If you're doing something that would require you to remove the IM, I'd throw a hondata gasket on there. I'm not sure I'd go through the trouble of taking it all apart just to put the gasket in there though, I'd spend the money/time elsewhere.

yea i have to remove it to get to the starter which i need to replace.

BeaterEP
02-24-2011, 02:11 PM
Valve lash should be identical, I'm also kind of surprised that the cams are the exact same

Yup, same part number and all. Yeah, that's what I figured on the lash, just checkin' my brain LOL. It likes to screw with me sometimes.

yyi
02-24-2011, 02:55 PM
Wheres the Idler pulley? is this the same as the autotensioner pulley? Whats the recommended mileage of replacement?

This was on the bottom of the last page so I just wanted to bump it to this page.

whatsvtec
02-24-2011, 03:23 PM
Or you could always go with some lame, unimaginative vtec reference like everyone likes to do.

THIS! but I'm really pretty biased, so don't listen to me hahaha :whoa:

doubledouble
02-24-2011, 07:48 PM
1. How many gallons does the tank hold? 13?

2. What's the parking situation like at the Special Olympics?

ShadowEP3
02-24-2011, 08:05 PM
2. What's the parking situation like at the Special Olympics?

its very awkward

mitchlikesbikes
02-24-2011, 08:28 PM
1. How many gallons does the tank hold? 13?



yeah it's pretty close to 13

usedep3
02-24-2011, 09:29 PM
i have a small tranny oil leak where the axle meets the tranny bell housing/case

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/catimgs/14S5S0_M02.gif

when you replace the axle seal (#11 above) (p/n 91205-PL3-B01) on the tranny case, does the tranny have to be split open to replace it?

jerrymouas
02-25-2011, 01:39 PM
Quick question, anybody know where i am support to put the little bar that came with the mugen lip to? help!

fozzy
02-25-2011, 02:48 PM
do i need a camber kit with Tein springs and Tein springs only?

ep3jd
02-25-2011, 02:53 PM
do i need a camber kit with Tein springs and Tein springs only?

Need? No. Should you get one to make sure your camber setting are in check? Yes.

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Jpax
02-25-2011, 03:48 PM
i have a small tranny oil leak where the axle meets the tranny bell housing/case

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/catimgs/14S5S0_M02.gif

when you replace the axle seal (#11 above) (p/n 91205-PL3-B01) on the tranny case, does the tranny have to be split open to replace it?

if it is the seal for the axle shaft then No you do not have to open the tranny, you can use a seal puller, and then tap it in with either a flat surface wood block, make sure it is flat too.

jerrymouas
02-25-2011, 03:52 PM
anybody rocking the mugen lip, can someone tell me where to mount the bar that came with the usdm mugen lip. i have no idea how to install it. thx

Jpax
02-25-2011, 03:54 PM
http://www.ephatch.com/forum//member.php?5768-HUR1CNE

you mean the little red bar? on this pick look though his pictures, might help

jerrymouas
02-25-2011, 04:12 PM
no, lt that long white bar on top of the lip i cant figure out where it support to go.
http://www.knightracer.com/images/honda/civic02/FRP_02EP3_MUGEN_Front_lip001.jpg

Jpax
02-25-2011, 04:18 PM
oh that mounts onto the sub frame and you can then mount the lower lip to it because it hangs so deep into the engine bay.

I think thats the white bar your talking about. you use it to sandwich the subframe with. its a bitch to put it on.

so the Channel on the lower lip - had a 1/2 moon cut out on it, just big enough for your hand - you can then hold the bar while while you screw it to the lip.

jerrymouas
02-25-2011, 04:43 PM
oh i see now, thank for the help.

ShadowEP3
02-25-2011, 06:40 PM
can i haz mod powerz..but be troll mod?

peasekthxbai.

:mangel:

usedep3
02-25-2011, 07:56 PM
if it is the seal for the axle shaft then No you do not have to open the tranny, you can use a seal puller, and then tap it in with either a flat surface wood block, make sure it is flat too.

thanks joe!

whatsvtec
02-25-2011, 08:30 PM
Sort of asking for opinions and some questions.

First off, the question.
Do will ep3 driveshafts work in the k20a trans?

Second off, K20A swap? or K20z3 swap? Which would end up cheaper in the end? Would I be able to get inspected, or do I need kpro to make things look right on the computer?

I know the o2 sensors are different and that causes problems when it comes to emissions standards here

PatrickJamesYu
02-25-2011, 08:39 PM
i drive an 03 ep
I want to get the Depo Projectors but what exactly do I need to make them work.
I've read of a "conversion harness" but can you link me directly to what I need?
And is this a direct plug 'n play?

Or lead me to a "How To"??


THANKS!

usedep3
02-25-2011, 09:16 PM
i drive an 03 ep
I want to get the Depo Projectors but what exactly do I need to make them work.
I've read of a "conversion harness" but can you link me directly to what I need?
And is this a direct plug 'n play?

Or lead me to a "How To"??

THANKS!

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/H4-Female_Bi-Xenon.jpg

here;s a link to the thread: link1 (http://www.ephatch.com/forum//showthread.php?58680-FAQ-on-OEM-Exterior-Options-%28HFP-CTR-EP2-etc%29) and link2 (http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?44222)

modding the city light is not mandatory but you will need turn signal bulb/socket/pigtails from the 04/05 ep3: link3 (http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?43835)

usedep3
02-25-2011, 09:20 PM
what size socket is needed to remove the axle/spindle nut (#22 in pic below / honda pn: 90305-S1A-000)?

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/southbay/jsp/catimgs/14S5S0_B21.gif

ShadowEP3
02-25-2011, 10:34 PM
32mm

whats up with the 403 Forbidden message as well as the Admin-only log in?

its coming back even more than before

02TWSI
02-25-2011, 10:40 PM
32mm

whats up with the 403 Forbidden message as well as the Admin-only log in?

its coming back even more than before

I get this all the time....
Ay martin, I think you need a new members ride thread for me to be a whore in. You had some nice pics if I remember.

ShadowEP3
02-26-2011, 01:08 AM
I get this all the time....
Ay martin, I think you need a new members ride thread for me to be a whore in. You had some nice pics if I remember.

i deleted it
:shady:

Jpax
02-26-2011, 02:26 AM
Sort of asking for opinions and some questions.

First off, the question.
Do will ep3 driveshafts work in the k20a trans?

Second off, K20A swap? or K20z3 swap? Which would end up cheaper in the end? Would I be able to get inspected, or do I need kpro to make things look right on the computer?

I know the o2 sensors are different and that causes problems when it comes to emissions standards here


yes the ep3 drive shafts work in the k20a2 trans,
between the K20a or the k20z engine price wise depends on what you get, i would guess the k20a price might have come down, and is a great replacement for the K20a3.

if inspection is required for your state, that depends on if they pop the hood and do all that stuff, then i would bet it would not pass the inspection. I would advise to get Kpro for your swap, as it will be a great tool for your project car, if your in NY, i would ask some of the local guys that have swaps in your state what they do to get around or get approved for emmisions.

whatsvtec
02-26-2011, 07:02 AM
I meant the "k20a" the JDM Type-R Engine. I know that the o2 sensors are different so I was curious how that would work regarding inspection.
I'm not too concerned about the a2 or z3 since those use the same type of o2 sensors as the a3.

Basically, at the end of the day which would cost more? I know that the z3 swap needs me to use my stock ecu and kpro since I wouldn't be able to use the DBW throttle body. But I'm wondering if I would need kpro to run the k20a swap. (I'm thinking I will since the gas it is tuned for is higher octane than anything sold in the us)

I'm basically just looking for a little clarification as to which swap would be cheaper/easier at the end of the day.

ep3jd
02-26-2011, 07:07 AM
I'm basically just looking for a little clarification as to which swap would be cheaper/easier at the end of the day.

Duuuuuuuuuude just do a k24!!!!!

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whatsvtec
02-26-2011, 07:14 AM
Duuuuuuuuuude just do a k24!!!!!

Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

The only k24 I'd be interested in swapping is the k24a2, but I'd want to have an LSD which was the main reason for the thoughts on the other 2 swaps. Decisions decisions.... either way it's something I can ponder until next year. I need to get cars footing in order.

ep3jd
02-26-2011, 07:33 AM
Just get an aftermarket lsd then. You'd be way happier with the 24 and you know it!

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whatsvtec
02-26-2011, 08:02 AM
Just get an aftermarket lsd then. You'd be way happier with the 24 and you know it!

Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

Yeahhhhh, you're right.:juggle:
So much to get in order before I do a transplant.

ep3jd
02-26-2011, 08:13 AM
I know, it's a lot. If I keep mine I'm going to swap this summer

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whatsvtec
02-26-2011, 08:21 AM
I know, it's a lot. If I keep mine I'm going to swap this summer

Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

If you keep it?! So many people are getting rid of their ep's, makes me sad to see them all fall out of good hands.
What are you thinking about getting next?

ep3jd
02-26-2011, 08:31 AM
Its just because I owe like 6 grand on it and its not worth that. Makes nd mad lol
me
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ShadowEP3
02-26-2011, 10:12 AM
is the Honda fog light switch different from the Acura fog switch?

usedep3
02-26-2011, 10:15 AM
is the Honda fog light switch different from the Acura fog switch?

nope! that's the fog switch most ep owners use when they replace the switch that comes with the oem replica/ebay kit

ShadowEP3
02-26-2011, 11:23 AM
yessssss


im having trouble completing the circuit for the switch..help?

Mighty_Mouse_Ep
02-27-2011, 10:13 AM
So i noticed when i drive my ep under 50% or more throttle i get vibration. more throttle more vibration any idea's on what it could be. I recently changed out fron LCA bushings and one ball joint. Also i had a new clutch put in about 3000 miles ago. Also when i turn my car off i get vibration which i think is coming from the clutch. So any ideas on what can be causing the vibration.

SamuraiSi
02-27-2011, 12:02 PM
So i noticed when i drive my ep under 50% or more throttle i get vibration. more throttle more vibration any idea's on what it could be. I recently changed out fron LCA bushings and one ball joint. Also i had a new clutch put in about 3000 miles ago. Also when i turn my car off i get vibration which i think is coming from the clutch. So any ideas on what can be causing the vibration.

i don't thing its the clutch if your car is in neutral when you turn it off, as it's not engaged

usedep3
02-27-2011, 01:25 PM
yessssss

im having trouble completing the circuit for the switch..help?

courtesy of cep3 and clockworksi02: link (http://forums.clubep3.com/showthread.php?t=566410)


This fog light harness will make your fogs independent from the main head light switch. no more hi beams on, fogs off or fogs on, high beams off.

Supplies needed:
Relay (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=330-070)
Relay Socket (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=330-075)
Acura OEM fog light Switch PN: 08V31-S6M-01035
14ga. wire
Fuse Holder (http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=070-675)
Connectors
Black tape
Wire Cutter
Soldering iron


This is what you'll need to do to the Acura OEM Switch.

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/7458/oemfogswitch2qd1.jpg
*courtesy of NTCustoms

http://img353.imageshack.us/img353/4903/foglightharnesssm9.jpg

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/2934/randoms117.jpg
http://img192.imageshack.us/img192/2286/randoms148.jpg
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/1746/dsc04227qr5.jpg
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/2585/dsc04229gx1.jpg
not my car btw, that's mike's(thisisagame24) he wants to be me :D

RedSiBaron
02-27-2011, 10:55 PM
Stickied the thread since people have embraced it and its shown it makes sense to members here...keep it up folks

Mighty_Mouse_Ep
02-27-2011, 11:45 PM
So yeah anyone have any input on my problem

So i noticed when i drive my ep under 50% or more throttle i get vibration. more throttle more vibration any idea's on what it could be. I recently changed out fron LCA bushings and one ball joint. Also i had a new clutch put in about 3000 miles ago. Also when i turn my car off i get vibration which i think is coming from the clutch. So any ideas on what can be causing the vibration.

Jpax
02-28-2011, 02:15 AM
when was the last time you had the align ment checked? if you recently changed the LCAs out then you should get it aligned. if you did that allready check if one of the wheels threw a weight, or if you hit anything might have a bent rim. other then that, check your front motor mount, it might be broke that also will wiggle the engine when turned off.

nmysiismyn
02-28-2011, 02:26 AM
when was the last time you had the align ment checked? if you recently changed the LCAs out then you should get it aligned. if you did that allready check if one of the wheels threw a weight, or if you hit anything might have a bent rim. other then that, check your front motor mount, it might be broke that also will wiggle the engine when turned off.

:yeahthat:Great advice there!
Because he metioned "half throttle" and not a certain speed/cornering/etc... I'm thinking front motor mount. :mwink:
It's hard to diagnose without feeling it. :shrug:

Mighty_Mouse_Ep
02-28-2011, 01:53 PM
when was the last time you had the align ment checked? if you recently changed the LCAs out then you should get it aligned. if you did that allready check if one of the wheels threw a weight, or if you hit anything might have a bent rim. other then that, check your front motor mount, it might be broke that also will wiggle the engine when turned off.

Thanks for the input I'll check those things out. It has been a while since I got an alignment. I'll take a look at the motor mounts and make sure everything is tight.

BeaterEP
02-28-2011, 02:03 PM
Good to see this one stickied! :thumbu:

yyi
02-28-2011, 02:36 PM
Wheres the Idler pulley? is this the same as the autotensioner pulley? Whats the recommended mileage of replacement?

ep3jd
02-28-2011, 06:51 PM
Can someone please please link me to the post where someone retro fitted an older accord front lip onto a usdm bumper? I need to know what year accord it was


I attached the photo because I saved it. Please help lol

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DRP967
02-28-2011, 07:01 PM
^ 94 accord (CD5 chassis)...someone correct me if I am wrong.

Can someone tell me the diameter of the stock midpipe?
Thanks

ep3jd
02-28-2011, 07:05 PM
I thought the dude who did it said 97 but google is failing me. Thank you and bump for a definite!

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DRP967
02-28-2011, 08:16 PM
I thought the dude who did it said 97 but google is failing me. Thank you and bump for a definite!

Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

http://media.il.edmunds-media.com/honda/accord/1994/ns/1994_honda_accord_prf_ns_92310_717.jpg

1994 accord...maybe its this lip?

ep3jd
02-28-2011, 08:17 PM
Its hard to tell! I just want to pick one up and paint it with my bumper. Ughhh

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SkareKrow
02-28-2011, 09:03 PM
Good to see this one stickied! :thumbu:

Lol mos def true to this! :)

Sent from my HTC EVO 4G using TapaTalk!

nmysiismyn
02-28-2011, 10:14 PM
I guess the EPHatch search engine won't accept 3 letter words like HFP and LED, so here's one:

Did Honda, along with the rest of the kit) discontinue the 3rd brake light that goes with the HFP wing?

I'm wondering because, if an LED fails, it looks to me like the whole lens had to be replaced. It looks sealed like our tails are... Here's a look-see:

Huge pic: http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/IMAG0688.jpg

If that's the case, when I sell my older HFP Wing, I'm not including the light. :mangel:

Any insight? Thanks!
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

usedep3
02-28-2011, 10:25 PM
I guess the EPHatch search engine won't accept 3 letter words like HFP and LED, so here's one:

Did Honda, along with the rest of the kit) discontinue the 3rd brake light that goes with the HFP wing?

I'm wondering because, if an LED fails, it looks to me like the whole lens had to be replaced. It looks sealed like our tails are... Here's a look-see:

[IMG]http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/IMAG0688.jpg[IMG]

If that's the case, when I sell my older HFP Wing, I'm not including the light. :mangel:

Any insight? Thanks!
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro


OEM replacement LED strip for HFP wing, Honda part number: 34270-S30-A01

the price has almost doubled since the summer. it was $98 when i ordered one this past summer

side note: this LED is not a direct replacement on non oem CTR replica wings.

Mighty_Mouse_Ep
02-28-2011, 10:43 PM
^ 94 accord (CD5 chassis)...someone correct me if I am wrong.

Can someone tell me the diameter of the stock midpipe?
Thanks

Went out and measured my stock one it is pretty tiny
http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9041/imagektr.jpg

PatrickJamesYu
02-28-2011, 10:48 PM
Its hard to tell! I just want to pick one up and paint it with my bumper. Ughhh

Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's the 5th gen accord lip
I forgot the whre the thread is, but I remember thinking it was the 5th gen

ShadowEP3
02-28-2011, 11:57 PM
to end all confusion:

its from a 94'-95' CD5..96'-97' had a bigger front bumper and more of a squared lip

nmysiismyn
03-01-2011, 12:59 AM
OEM replacement LED strip for HFP wing, Honda part number: 34270-S30-A01

the price has almost doubled since the summer. it was $98 when i ordered one this past summer

side note: this LED is not a direct replacement on non oem CTR replica wings.

Thanks man! Damn! Well, I thought I read through all of usedep3's awesome thread. LOL. I guess I missed that part...

You're right... It has nearly doubled! Holy schnickies!..

Looks like I'll be selling mine without it... The buyer's just gonna have to buy the Showstoppers block-of plate. :tehe:
___________________________________________
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ep3jd
03-01-2011, 06:15 AM
Same shape? Aka; would a retro fit work as easily with the larger one?


to end all confusion:

its from a 94'-95' CD5..96'-97' had a bigger front bumper and more of a squared lip



Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

ShadowEP3
03-01-2011, 09:09 AM
Same shape? Aka; would a retro fit work as easily with the larger one?

yes..IMO 96-97 looks like the Volvo lip

ep3jd
03-01-2011, 09:13 AM
Oh alright I don't really wanna rock that lip. Hm if only I could find the lip new somewhere

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ShadowEP3
03-01-2011, 09:24 AM
Oh alright I don't really wanna rock that lip. Hm if only I could find the lip new somewhere

check either gen5alive or hondasociety..most of em get rid of their stock lip if not their entire bumpers; im just gonna get one at the junkyard

ep3jd
03-01-2011, 09:27 AM
Thank you sir. Its a cool little lip, right?

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ShadowEP3
03-01-2011, 09:31 AM
Thank you sir. Its a cool little lip, right?

yeah..its the one that the VBP had (looks similar to the EG Type-R lip); ima go try to pick one up tomorrow, if youd like i can get you one

ep3jd
03-01-2011, 05:42 PM
And ship it to new yawk??

rjmq06
03-01-2011, 06:29 PM
what kind of double kit you guys using??
i bought a metra 95-7899
but it doesnt fit at all not even close and the best buy employees pissed me off
cause they recommend me this
and i cant return it cause i already cut the middle part

MBaG
03-01-2011, 06:35 PM
I got 2 lips for sale, and I've had a ton of people ask me to ship (most are probably flakers, but still)..

so my question is.. what's the cheapest route I could take to safely ship a lip?

nmysiismyn
03-01-2011, 08:33 PM
I got 2 lips for sale, and I've had a ton of people ask me to ship (most are probably flakers, but still)..

so my question is.. what's the cheapest route I could take to safely ship a lip?

I got a front bumper shipped to me via Greyhound. He sold it to me for $200 shipped, then realized his buddies discount at UPS was still about $200. Instead of having him paypal me back, I agreed to his Greyhound offer. It took almost 5 weeks to get here from Iowa, but all went well. :shrug:
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

SkareKrow
03-02-2011, 01:12 AM
What he Said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

I got 2 lips for sale, and I've had a ton of people ask me to ship (most are probably flakers, but still)..

so my question is.. what's the cheapest route I could take to safely ship a lip?
Man I still cant believe your getting rid of that front lip ;)

POOPTOOTH
03-02-2011, 08:01 AM
Are Dc5 and Ep3 rear brake rotors the same...Just came across a good deal on Dc5 rears, just want to make sure they fit on my 04. Hope this thread delivers!

ep3jd
03-02-2011, 08:10 AM
Base rotors or type s? Type s are 11.1 or something and base/ep3 are 10 something.
That's all the help I can offer, aka I have no idea lol
POOPTOOTH loves Tapatalk :tehe:

ShadowEP3
03-02-2011, 09:19 AM
base DC5 rotors are the same as EP3 rotors

DC5-S rotors are bigger and wont work with EP3 unless you did the DC5-S 5 lug swap

ShadowEP3
03-02-2011, 09:58 AM
btw i would be willing to ship you that lip if i can find somwhere to buy a box that long

yay
03-02-2011, 10:08 AM
What is this called ?
http://i52.tinypic.com/28txaxg.jpg
it is the part that the wiper blades rest on..its black... is it the sealer or something ?

ep3jd
03-02-2011, 11:28 AM
btw i would be willing to ship you that lip if i can find somwhere to buy a box that long

Lmk! If its a junk yard steal and shipping isn't killer I'll take you up on that :thumbu:

And I'm painting it so make sure you get the best one for yourself!

POOPTOOTH loves Tapatalk :tehe:

Guardian
03-02-2011, 11:57 AM
Are Dc5 and Ep3 rear brake rotors the same...Just came across a good deal on Dc5 rears, just want to make sure they fit on my 04. Hope this thread delivers!

rears are the same

Guardian
03-02-2011, 12:00 PM
What is this called ?
http://i52.tinypic.com/28txaxg.jpg
it is the part that the wiper blades rest on..its black... is it the sealer or something ?

cowl

http://myhondapartsstore.com/myhonda/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=3DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=HOOD&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

yay
03-02-2011, 12:37 PM
cowl

http://myhondapartsstore.com/myhonda/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2005&catcgry3=3DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=HOOD&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

thanks !!

HondaFreak
03-02-2011, 01:54 PM
I meant the "k20a" the JDM Type-R Engine. I know that the o2 sensors are different so I was curious how that would work regarding inspection.
I'm not too concerned about the a2 or z3 since those use the same type of o2 sensors as the a3.

Basically, at the end of the day which would cost more? I know that the z3 swap needs me to use my stock ecu and kpro since I wouldn't be able to use the DBW throttle body. But I'm wondering if I would need kpro to run the k20a swap. (I'm thinking I will since the gas it is tuned for is higher octane than anything sold in the us)

I'm basically just looking for a little clarification as to which swap would be cheaper/easier at the end of the day.

Ok. A K20a is an exact drop in. Sensors off your ep3 work fine as long as you have k-pro.
The K20z motors are DBW as I recall. So you would need to swap the TB. I believe.

A k20a2 is a perfect drop in, same as the k20a.

Smog.
Any of the following will pass state bar or smog.
ITR K20a with k-pro and OEM stuff
K20a2 with k-pro and OEM stuff
K20z with k-pro and OEM stuff

there's a lot to it. But I passed just fine with my Itr k20a w/jrsc and k-pro

Duuuuuuuuuude just do a k24!!!!!

Sent from my Galaxy S using Tapatalk

k24 won't pass ca state smog. Thank you for playing.

Christian

Distance
03-02-2011, 03:40 PM
Can someone link me to some cheap oem tie rods?

RedSiBaron
03-02-2011, 04:37 PM
Can someone link me to some cheap oem tie rods?

Hondaautomotiveparts? Autozone?

This is the small/dumb/quick/common question thread, not the "im too lazy to search myself" thread

Unless of course you are saying "I've looked and failed, and need something cheaper than $xx.xx"

DRP967
03-02-2011, 05:04 PM
Went out and measured my stock one it is pretty tiny

Thanks a bunch!

DRP967
03-02-2011, 05:06 PM
Does anyone know if the Miracle X bar for the RSX will fit the EP3? (There is no EP3 specific application but I read supposedly it fits the EP3)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4100/4784071497_dffeefc73f_b.jpg

Guardian
03-02-2011, 07:39 PM
thanks !!

no problem, want mine?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cromer13b/IMG_7448.jpg

i opted for the vent the shit out of the engine bay mod

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v606/cromer13b/photo-55.jpg

Distance
03-02-2011, 08:03 PM
Hondaautomotiveparts? Autozone?

This is the small/dumb/quick/common question thread, not the "im too lazy to search myself" thread

Unless of course you are saying "I've looked and failed, and need something cheaper than $xx.xx"

lol just forget it i found some.i didnt want to buy the autozone one.

RedSiBaron
03-02-2011, 08:48 PM
lol just forget it i found some.i didnt want to buy the autozone one.

gad you know i was just harassing ya buddy...

what did you go with?

nmysiismyn
03-02-2011, 09:13 PM
I lost the key to my Bull-Lock locking lugs... :mfrown:
Anyone know the best place to order one. I have the serial # or whatever?
From what I've found, I might as well buy a new set and request the same serial # :shrug:

Onasty
03-02-2011, 10:13 PM
When i swap out K-pro will i still be able to drive my car to the dealer to have my key synced again

RedSiBaron
03-02-2011, 10:25 PM
I lost the key to my Bull-Lock locking lugs... :mfrown:
Anyone know the best place to order one. I have the serial # or whatever?
From what I've found, I might as well buy a new set and request the same serial # :shrug:

i take it they are stuck on then? id contact the company

Distance
03-02-2011, 10:28 PM
gad you know i was just harassing ya buddy...

what did you go with?

Bought it from some Asian place that carried oem Honda stuff.


I lost the key to my Bull-Lock locking lugs... :mfrown:
Anyone know the best place to order one. I have the serial # or whatever?
From what I've found, I might as well buy a new set and request the same serial # :shrug:

What's the serial number. I might have one that work.


Sorry for double post.

RedSiBaron
03-02-2011, 10:33 PM
Bought it from some Asian place that carried oem Honda stuff.



What's the serial number. I might have one that work.


Sorry for double post.


nice deal...

and no worries...COMBO THREAD EDIT POWER!!!! :thumbu:

nmysiismyn
03-02-2011, 10:33 PM
i take it they are stuck on then? id contact the company

Nah... Just lost 'em. I probably did some dumb shit after a long day/ late night install and left them on before driving away. :mrolleyes:

They're JDM and IDK Japanese. :tehe: I've seen a couple people who claim typo sell them, but they want around $24 shipped when a set's about $32 shipped. :mrolleyes:

I bought them from JLB (awesome/successful shop), but the owner chose to call it quits. :mcry:
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

nmysiismyn
03-02-2011, 10:46 PM
What's the serial number. I might have one that work.

12S :shrug: I think that's the one (written in marker) Dustin said he'd need to order a new one. :shrug:

But would you sell it? :mangel:

These might be utterly huge pics, so I'll just post them as a link...

Back:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/SDC119421024w.jpg

Front:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/SDC119431024w.jpg

Super detailed shot of the lugnut:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/SDC11953copy.jpg
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

Distance
03-02-2011, 11:32 PM
12S :shrug: I think that's the one (written in marker) Dustin said he'd need to order a new one. :shrug:

But would you sell it? :mangel:

These might be utterly huge pics, so I'll just post them as a link...

Back:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/SDC119421024w.jpg

Front:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/SDC119431024w.jpg

Super detailed shot of the lugnut:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/SDC11953copy.jpg
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

Sorry can't help. I have a different serial number.

nmysiismyn
03-03-2011, 12:21 AM
Sorry can't help. I have a different serial number.

:frusty:
Thanks anyway! :bow:

Onasty
03-03-2011, 11:50 AM
where can i get the service manual tryin to swap my head again

SamuraiSi
03-03-2011, 12:00 PM
where can i get the service manual tryin to swap my head again

here: http://pdftown.com/Honda-Civic-Si-2002-2003-Service-Manual.html

ep3jd
03-03-2011, 12:30 PM
btw i would be willing to ship you that lip if i can find somwhere to buy a box that long


Btw you could find a huge box in the trash behind most businesses, just cut one up to the right size and tape the fuck out of it! Haha


_________________________________
POOPTOOTH loves Tapatalk :tehe:

nmysiismyn
03-03-2011, 01:27 PM
:yeahthat: I did the same thing with my Samsung Soundbar. I just put a bunch of folded/rolled up cardboard pieces with wadded up paper for packing. I got a compliment from the Samsung Customer Service Rep. :tehe:

SamuraiSi
03-03-2011, 02:07 PM
i'm having problems where my car wouldn't start. i haven't been driving the car as much so it's sat in my garage for a few days (used to be my daily). i would turn it on and drive it a round like once a week, or take it out on weekends. after i did my last oil change the car started getting lazier to turn on. then one day it just didn't turn on. all the electronics worked fine. the car would make a fast clicking noise when i tried to turn it on, but wouldn't start. i thought it was the starter but when i took it to advance auto to get it checked, it turned out that it is good. i did search and from what i found i'm going to check fuses and relays as well as the grounds.

my question is, besides the battery ground, is there another ground that i need to check and what else should i check before putting everything back together?

thanks

ShadowEP3
03-03-2011, 06:06 PM
ive searched every corner of teh interwebz..


WHERE TEH HELL CAN I GET A SPOON LANYARD?!

Distance
03-03-2011, 07:00 PM
does anyone know the specs on the wheels of 2nd gen fit? the only that looks like a freaking minivann and if they will fit our cars.

RHCP0801
03-03-2011, 07:28 PM
i know there offset is +55 and they look extremely sunken in unless you get huge spacers lol

Distance
03-03-2011, 07:47 PM
i know there offset is +55 and they look extremely sunken in unless you get huge spacers lol

would it fit without the spacers?or will it rub on the trailing arm or lca lol. i just need to run it for a few weeks.

RHCP0801
03-03-2011, 07:55 PM
i know they fit em2's fine so im pretty sure they would fit the ep ok

ZaTHRaS
03-04-2011, 06:53 AM
03 with HFP suspension. 19-21mm ( I believe) rear sway from RSX. 15" Si wheels, 205/55/r15

Daily Driver, need alignment. Would like to prolong tire life. getting -camber wear currently (inside wear)

have taken this with me before http://www.handa-accessories.com/civic/sportsusp.pdf for specs.
techs look at me crazy since most plug the vehicle into the computer and go to town. They act like it's in japanese (maybe it is)

Is there a standard conversion for these specs that, let's say a firestone tech, can figure out? Any other suspension parts I may need?

Thanks

usedep3
03-04-2011, 07:22 AM
would it fit without the spacers?or will it rub on the trailing arm or lca lol. i just need to run it for a few weeks.

i'm pretty sure it'll fit but it'll just have that sunken in look to it

usedep3
03-04-2011, 07:24 AM
03 with HFP suspension. 19-21mm ( I believe) rear sway from RSX. 15" Si wheels, 205/55/r15

Daily Driver, need alignment. Would like to prolong tire life. getting -camber wear currently (inside wear)

have taken this with me before http://www.handa-accessories.com/civic/sportsusp.pdf for specs.
techs look at me crazy since most plug the vehicle into the computer and go to town. They act like it's in japanese (maybe it is)

Is there a standard conversion for these specs that, let's say a firestone tech, can figure out? Any other suspension parts I may need?

Thanks

on the link you provided, page 7, top right corner of the chart is all the tech should need to properly align your car.

yyi
03-04-2011, 10:50 PM
From my understanding, a K24a2 block with a k20a2 head can accept up to 45* of VTC http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.html.

But what about with the k24a1? Will the different pistons allow for a full 50* of VTC advance?

mitchlikesbikes
03-05-2011, 11:57 AM
can someone pleasse post a link or give me some pointers on removing the rear latch cover and license plate holder thing? i remember seeing a DIY or something but i tried searching and can't find anything. do you have to take the plastic off and get at it from inside the hatch or is it done from the outside?

usedep3
03-05-2011, 12:15 PM
can someone pleasse post a link or give me some pointers on removing the rear latch cover and license plate holder thing? i remember seeing a DIY or something but i tried searching and can't find anything. do you have to take the plastic off and get at it from inside the hatch or is it done from the outside?

the trunk/license plate garnish is held on a couple of hexhead bolts and popclips. you will have to remove all the trunk/hatch plastic. it's 4 plastic panel/pieces. then you'll be able to remove the 10mm hex head bolts. finally the trunk license garnish can be popped off. are you planning to delete the rear 'h'?

BeaterEP
03-05-2011, 12:40 PM
03 with HFP suspension. 19-21mm ( I believe) rear sway from RSX. 15" Si wheels, 205/55/r15

Daily Driver, need alignment. Would like to prolong tire life. getting -camber wear currently (inside wear)

have taken this with me before http://www.handa-accessories.com/civic/sportsusp.pdf for specs.
techs look at me crazy since most plug the vehicle into the computer and go to town. They act like it's in japanese (maybe it is)

Is there a standard conversion for these specs that, let's say a firestone tech, can figure out? Any other suspension parts I may need?

Thanks

iirc, places like Firestone will not do what they consider a "custom" alignment. It's about one of the stupidest policies in the world, when considering something like the HFP suspension, which is factory, and comes with a factory alignment spec sheet, but apparently doesn't always show up in their fancy alignment system.
I've had that problem before. Had to explain to them very slowly and carefully that the "factory" settings they had in their database were, in fact, wrong for the suspension I was running.

After all that nonsense, and then walking out with my wheel still cocked to the right, I decided next time I'm going to a proper performance shop.

mitchlikesbikes
03-05-2011, 01:16 PM
the trunk/license plate garnish is held on a couple of hexhead bolts and popclips. you will have to remove all the trunk/hatch plastic. it's 4 plastic panel/pieces. then you'll be able to remove the 10mm hex head bolts. finally the trunk license garnish can be popped off. are you planning to delete the rear 'h'?

nah i've already got a JDM red H back there:) it's because i'm buffing and detailing the car today and want to get it off so i can get everything under and around it cleaned up good. i've already taken the hatch plastic off once for my wiper delete so i think i should be able to get it off again pretty easily. thanks for the help!

PatrickJamesYu
03-06-2011, 12:17 AM
Suspension question
I didn't want to start a new thread, and search didn't give me anything exact.
So I'm on Koni Yellows and Ground Control sleeves w/ the 'for ep3' spring rates.
With my Koni's on full stiff, the rear's still seem to be rather bouncy..
I notice some people when going into drive way's and inclines in angles, they sometimes fall onto 3 wheels, while the 3 wheels don't seem to compress a whole lot.
When I back into my driveway at an angle, and at the point where my rear-right wheel is on the incline first, it seems to compress a whole lot.

Will getting stiffer spring rates in the rear, fix this?

SamuraiSi
03-06-2011, 02:56 PM
Anyone?

i'm having problems where my car wouldn't start. i haven't been driving the car as much so it's sat in my garage for a few days (used to be my daily). i would turn it on and drive it a round like once a week, or take it out on weekends. after i did my last oil change the car started getting lazier to turn on. then one day it just didn't turn on. all the electronics worked fine. the car would make a fast clicking noise when i tried to turn it on, but wouldn't start. i thought it was the starter but when i took it to advance auto to get it checked, it turned out that it is good. i did search and from what i found i'm going to check fuses and relays as well as the grounds.

my question is, besides the battery ground, is there another ground that i need to check and what else should i check before putting everything back together?

thanks

Mighty_Mouse_Ep
03-06-2011, 06:52 PM
Have you had the battery checked out? How old is the battery in the car?

RHCP0801
03-06-2011, 08:16 PM
make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals and they are tight and down on the post all the way

ShadowEP3
03-06-2011, 10:30 PM
recently my heater stopped working (about 3 weeks ago give or take); the light which lights up the knob to select defrost/towards body/legs/ect. has lost power which leads me to believe its somewhat related. anything i should check that i might of missed? (no bad fuses)

nmysiismyn
03-07-2011, 12:06 AM
recently my heater stopped working (about 3 weeks ago give or take); the light which lights up the knob to select defrost/towards body/legs/ect. has lost power which leads me to believe its somewhat related. anything i should check that i might of missed? (no bad fuses)

Wish I could help. I sowwy. :mfrown:
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

SamuraiSi
03-07-2011, 05:28 AM
Have you had the battery checked out? How old is the battery in the car?

I have not, but it's only about a year old, but everything else works: windows, lights, radio, etc. Could there stil be something wrong with it?


make sure there is no corrosion on the terminals and they are tight and down on the post all the way

No corrosion on the terminals, but I will make sure I do this when I put her back together.

abstract
03-07-2011, 05:35 AM
saw a infomercial about a bettery charger u plug into your lighter... anyone familiar with it? name??

Distance
03-07-2011, 03:00 PM
planning to rock some fit rocks for the time being. do you guys know if i will rub on the trailing arm or lca?

specs are

15x6.5 + 55

rufiogeezee
03-08-2011, 12:54 PM
besides the obvious west coast honda meet, and the recently added Big Bear meet, Are there any other honda/tuner meets going on in Socal? Cars and coffee, and the supercar sunday are getting old, I need a tuner fix. Anyone?

Ba82Ep3
03-08-2011, 12:58 PM
Anyone have any information or experience with the Skunk2 composite fuel rail?

Distance
03-08-2011, 01:38 PM
besides the obvious west coast honda meet, and the recently added Big Bear meet, Are there any other honda/tuner meets going on in Socal? Cars and coffee, and the supercar sunday are getting old, I need a tuner fix. Anyone?

next biggest meet will be eibach which is may15.

MBaG
03-08-2011, 02:03 PM
besides the obvious west coast honda meet, and the recently added Big Bear meet, Are there any other honda/tuner meets going on in Socal? Cars and coffee, and the supercar sunday are getting old, I need a tuner fix. Anyone?


next biggest meet will be eibach which is may15.

Eibach then Nisei (isn't a Honda specific meet, but still tons of Hondas + a whole lot of other cars).

mangvue05si
03-08-2011, 03:04 PM
i cant decide on mouter monts,

hasport is my #1 but i know there are cheaper and still same performance

btw i got a greddy snaily and NEED NEW MOUNTS!

nmysiismyn
03-08-2011, 06:03 PM
Are there any other honda/tuner meets going on in Socal?


next biggest meet will be eibach which is may15.


Eibach then Nisei (isn't a Honda specific meet, but still tons of Hondas + a whole lot of other cars).

No RMM love! :mmad: Shame in you guys! :mmad:

:tehe:

He didn't ask, "What's the next HUGE meet?" :shady:

Click my sig bro! :mcool:
It's an hour away from you, but we've had a bunch of people drive even longer. It may not be "huge" per-say, but it's a good time. The last meet brought 15 members, but we've had as much as 22.

Caravan with other members? :mangel:

EDIT:
It doesn't really matter, but I thought the most EP's we've had was 18-20, but I just checked and it's been 22. Whatever.

EDU
03-08-2011, 06:23 PM
transmission fluid change coming up as soon as winter is over.
Question: How many Quarts does the tranny takes?
and what you guys think: Honda MTF or Royal Purple Syncro mesh?

RHCP0801
03-08-2011, 06:30 PM
takes 1.7 quarts...i always use honda MTF

i also bought these
http://passwordjdm.com/PasswordJDM-Magnetic-Oil-Tranny-Drain-Plug-Package-Honda-P1643C455.aspx

PatrickJamesYu
03-08-2011, 08:32 PM
What are my spring rates?
These are Eibach/ Ground Control collab springs

GC125.64.75
GC150.64.66

Mighty_Mouse_Ep
03-08-2011, 08:53 PM
transmission fluid change coming up as soon as winter is over.
Question: How many Quarts does the tranny takes?
and what you guys think: Honda MTF or Royal Purple Syncro mesh?

I use synchromesh mixed with honda MTF

EDU
03-09-2011, 05:39 AM
225 45 17... anybody running these tires with a NOT agressive drop? will they fit without a fender roll?
skunk2 lowering springs...

ep3jd
03-09-2011, 05:53 AM
My beater wheels are 17x7 +45 and I have 225/45. I'm tucking tire in the front now with coilovers.

The rear rubbed but I had the fenders rolled from my aggressive set up. That was on 2" nuespeed springs.

rufiogeezee
03-09-2011, 07:49 AM
No RMM love! :mmad: Shame in you guys! :mmad:

:tehe:

He didn't ask, "What's the next HUGE meet?" :shady:

Click my sig bro! :mcool:
It's an hour away from you, but we've had a bunch of people drive even longer. It may not be "huge" per-say, but it's a good time. The last meet brought 15 members, but we've had as much as 22.

Caravan with other members? :mangel:

EDIT:
It doesn't really matter, but I thought the most EP's we've had was 18-20, but I just checked and it's been 22. Whatever.

thank you sir, yea west coast honda meet is the Eibach meet, and never heard of Nisei so thanks to MBaG for that one. As for the monthly meet I might just have to show up this month. Thanks for the info. It will be a 2hr. drive for me, but im pretty sure ill live. That's if the wife doesnt kill me, I don't care who you are, if you're married with kids, its like 24/7 lockdown when it comes to doing anything remotely fun by yourself. Call me pussywhipped, but thats the price people pay for this family stuff. I don't get it myself either, but its pretty damn cool having a 2yr old version of me that I can mold, can you say world domination son? i'm kidding.

nmysiismyn
03-09-2011, 02:00 PM
:rofl: For sure man. Understandable! I don't have kids,but my lady always rolls with. She loves it!

I Google Map'd Apple Valley in general... Another hour? Damn! I guess it could be worse. Maybe plan a full day, with something before the meet? :shrug:

Know anyone else with an EP you could caravan with? :mangel:
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

PatrickJamesYu
03-09-2011, 02:05 PM
225 45 17... anybody running these tires with a NOT agressive drop? will they fit without a fender roll?
skunk2 lowering springs...

I'm pretty sure your rear will rub

what offset?

I'd say into inclines and stuff you will rub in the rear

ep3jd
03-09-2011, 02:11 PM
Can someone find that thread that was posted a couple weeks ago about cheap hfp kit parts on ebay? I can't find it for the life of me!

ep3jd
03-09-2011, 02:12 PM
I'm pretty sure your rear will rub

what offset?

I'd say into inclines and stuff you will rub in the rear

The rear will rub

MBaG
03-09-2011, 02:25 PM
thank you sir, yea west coast honda meet is the Eibach meet, and never heard of Nisei so thanks to MBaG for that one. As for the monthly meet I might just have to show up this month. Thanks for the info. It will be a 2hr. drive for me, but im pretty sure ill live. That's if the wife doesnt kill me, I don't care who you are, if you're married with kids, its like 24/7 lockdown when it comes to doing anything remotely fun by yourself. Call me pussywhipped, but thats the price people pay for this family stuff. I don't get it myself either, but its pretty damn cool having a 2yr old version of me that I can mold, can you say world domination son? i'm kidding.

Don't worry, I drove my EP 7 hours for Wekfest. But since it was that long of a drive, a couple friends and I decided to just stay the whole weekend and wander around SF.

.. I still haven't been to one of those Riverside EP meets though. ;)

EDU
03-09-2011, 05:54 PM
i guess ill have to roll my fenders huh?
thank you guys

rufiogeezee
03-09-2011, 07:35 PM
its Antelope Valley, here in Lancaster. I've only been here about 2 yrs. so i don't know anyone in the import scene just yet, let alone EP's. So im either taking my family, or going solo. Solo sounds good though. not a big deal since babies are high maintenance. Hopefully i'll see you and others there this month. thanks for the invite.

nmysiismyn
03-09-2011, 11:08 PM
OIC. Oops... :tehe:
Phosho! Solo... With the fam... Either way man... Hope to seed you there! :gheywa:
___________________________________________
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RedSiBaron
03-10-2011, 09:26 AM
Guys this isn't a chat thread...ill let previous posts slide but in the future ill be deleting posts...lets try to stick to question and answer related posts in the future...let's take meet plans to pms or the appropriate section...

Thanks :wavey:

SkareKrow
03-11-2011, 03:58 AM
Guys this isn't a chat thread...ill let previous posts slide but in the future ill be deleting posts...lets try to stick to question and answer related posts in the future...let's take meet plans to pms or the appropriate section...

Thanks :wavey:

lol true to this! Thank you mod!

MBaG
03-11-2011, 01:05 PM
lol true to this! Thank you mod!

This isn't a sucking up thread either...



Haha jk.

nmysiismyn
03-12-2011, 12:33 PM
Who's rigged up something to fix their door props- so they actually stay open when they're propped open? That's not just me dealing with that, right?

I can't believe I've put up with this for over 7 years without trying to fix out in someway.
___________________________________________
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siege911
03-12-2011, 06:21 PM
So expanding on this... Will 245's rub on a stock height ep3 (stock wheel size as well)? Thinking about running 245 r-comps in the future in H-stock.

Cool idea... kinda like an ephatch "Shoutbox" of questions lol.

Has anyone ever run 245's for rr/autox up front at stock height? It seems that I get fairly close to rubbing on 225 star specs at stock height on hard corners, so I'd assume that I will definitely rub with 245's, but I just wanted to know who else has run 'em before.

ep3jd
03-12-2011, 07:17 PM
Has anyone ever run 245's for rr/autox up front at stock height? It seems that I get fairly close to rubbing on 225 star specs at stock height on hard corners, so I'd assume that I will definitely rub with 245's, but I just wanted to know who else has run 'em before.

Stock? At least rsx a spec, hfp, or mugen. But, no dude.. You'll be alright. I have 225/45/17x7 +45 only rub when I'm real real into it. AND I'm tucking a solid amount of tire.

siege911
03-12-2011, 11:16 PM
Stock? At least rsx a spec, hfp, or mugen. But, no dude.. You'll be alright. I have 225/45/17x7 +45 only rub when I'm real real into it. AND I'm tucking a solid amount of tire.

Yeah, stock height for H-Stock SCCA autox. I just wasn't sure about the fat 245's and how they would work, especially on a 16x6.5 wheel (which I'm required to use per class rules).

EDU
03-13-2011, 05:43 PM
so i took off my valve cover today and sent it to get powdercoat. when i pulled it out i noticed that on the gasket on each corner was a lil bit of RTV silicone. im getting a new gasket so my question is: do i really need to put silicone on the corners?? i dont think is necessary but what do you guys think or have done before??
thank you.

siege911
03-13-2011, 07:36 PM
so i took off my valve cover today and sent it to get powdercoat. when i pulled it out i noticed that on the gasket on each corner was a lil bit of RTV silicone. im getting a new gasket so my question is: do i really need to put silicone on the corners?? i dont think is necessary but what do you guys think or have done before??
thank you.

Yes, this is definitely required. You put the silicone on the four areas of the head where there are changes in the profile... two marks by the chain and two on the other end, so that it makes a seal and no oil leaks. Make sure you wait at least half an hour (per the service manual, or longer if you want) before starting the car to let the silicone form.

Also make sure you properly torque the VC if you can, there is a sequence to do it in 2 steps so that you distribute the pressure evenly... something really low like 7.4ft-lbs.

usedep3
03-13-2011, 07:55 PM
so i took off my valve cover today and sent it to get powdercoat. when i pulled it out i noticed that on the gasket on each corner was a lil bit of RTV silicone. im getting a new gasket so my question is: do i really need to put silicone on the corners?? i dont think is necessary but what do you guys think or have done before??
thank you.



yea, you put hondabond with the gasket. i highly recoomend this stuff:

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/twincamtech_2143_9765501

i've used this in place of hondabond with great success and no issues

SamuraiSi
03-14-2011, 06:09 AM
Can I use the regular hatch lift supports with a carbon fiber hatch?

PatrickJamesYu
03-14-2011, 01:40 PM
So what exactly will happen if I put my 2.5" GReddy evo2 on a stock midpipe?
will it sound like complete crap?
loss in power?

ep3jd
03-14-2011, 02:02 PM
The car will explode

27rocks
03-14-2011, 02:36 PM
Can I use the regular hatch lift supports with a carbon fiber hatch?

Yes!

27rocks
03-14-2011, 02:39 PM
Who's rigged up something to fix their door props- so they actually stay open when they're propped open? That's not just me dealing with that, right?

I can't believe I've put up with this for over 7 years without trying to fix out in someway.
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

My pass side door stays open but the drivers side closes on the slightest hill... go figure right?

nmysiismyn
03-14-2011, 05:55 PM
My pass side door stays open but the drivers side closes on the slightest hill... go figure right?

On his part development thread, Charles just posted on this:
He said that he recently found out that they're adjustable in some way. :shrug: I think I have one laying around from an old door too. If you want, I can LYK how as soon as I do it... LMK
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

BeaterEP
03-14-2011, 07:23 PM
If you get in there and find they actually are adjustable, DIY thread that bish so we can all fix them! :thumbu:

nmysiismyn
03-14-2011, 09:37 PM
If you get in there and find they actually are adjustable, DIY thread that bish so we can all fix them! :thumbu:

Phosho! I thought there'd be something on it in my service manual, but there isn't.

I've been pretty lazy/busy lately, so no promises. It should be easy to get one up though. I replaced my driver's side door a couple of years ago and kept all the parts, so I may have the part off the car already. Time to start diggin' through boxes... :mbiggrin:
___________________________________________
Sent from my HTC EVO 4G via Tapatalk Pro

27rocks
03-15-2011, 12:33 AM
I might scan through my PDF service manual to see if there is anything in there in case you missed it, but if you find anything out let us know.

nmysiismyn
03-15-2011, 02:08 AM
I might scan through my PDF service manual to see if there is anything in there in case you missed it, but if you find anything out let us know.

Had to go through quite a few boxes, but I found it! :mbiggrin:
Sadly, it doesn't look adjustable. :mfrown:

It's just two plastic pieces, wedged together and sealed in a galvanized casing. At the thicker parts of the arm, the plastic pieces get opened very little and close back up at the thinner areas. From closed to open, the bar starts off thin and gets thicker, before closing on the mid-way and final so-called "catching points."

The one I have feels stiff, but I know with the leverage from the door, it'll be the same ish.

I'm going to sip a little more coffee, take some pics and try to post them up before I crash out. I'll pry the sealing-tabs open tomorrow.

I sure hope something can be done about it! It drives me nuts! :whoa: I even dented my door jam last week, wedging a can of brake cleaner in there to hold it open. That's how I've always had to do it, but this time, my door got leaned on... :mrolleyes:

PatrickJamesYu
03-15-2011, 03:33 AM
F1 Racing Stage 2 Clutch
Yay or Nay?

nmysiismyn
03-15-2011, 03:42 AM
(CLICKABLE THUMBNAILS)

The Part:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/th_SDC12286copy600w-1.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/?action=view&current=SDC12286copy600w.jpg)

Here, you can see how it's sealed:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/th_SDC12285copy600w.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/?action=view&current=SDC12285copy600w.jpg)

Here, you can see the two catch-slots of the bar:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/th_SDC12289copy600w.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/?action=view&current=SDC12289copy600w.jpg)

Here, you can see the BS plastic clamps and how little they open:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/th_SDC12277copy600w.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/?action=view&current=SDC12277copy600w.jpg)

Here's one just because: IDK how plastic would do this, but check out the grooves! My newer one look about the same already:
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/th_SDC12292copy600w.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/?action=view&current=SDC12292copy600w.jpg)

PatrickJamesYu
03-15-2011, 10:29 PM
So I saw some rear lower control arms for the RSX
they are labeled to fit the 02-05 civic si, and the 03-10 element.

I was under the impression the lower control arms were not compatible between the rsx and ep3, but maybe I'm wrong?
Can someone make this clear for me

nmysiismyn
03-15-2011, 11:03 PM
So I saw some rear lower control arms for the RSX
they are labeled to fit the 02-05 civic si, and the 03-10 element.

I was under the impression the lower control arms were not compatible between the rsx and ep3, but maybe I'm wrong?
Can someone make this clear for me

They aren't.
EP/EM LCA's match, while DC5/YH LCA's match.

SkareKrow
03-15-2011, 11:33 PM
They aren't.
EP/EM LCA's match, while DC5/YH LCA's match.
Thanks Tommy, It's good to know :)

SamuraiSi
03-16-2011, 07:57 AM
Yes!

thanks

RHDmeatwagon
03-16-2011, 11:01 AM
Does ANYONE know where I can find me some damn skinny open ended lug nuts?

Skinnier than the normal size. The wheels i have only fit a certain size.

ep3jd
03-16-2011, 11:13 AM
Have you tried crsx store?

RHDmeatwagon
03-16-2011, 12:01 PM
Have you tried crsx store?

Yeah the problem is that they dont have width dimensions or anything. So Im left by just looking at a picture. Which has failed me once already :(

I just need abnormally small ones

27rocks
03-16-2011, 12:08 PM
Had to go through quite a few boxes, but I found it! :mbiggrin:
Sadly, it doesn't look adjustable. :mfrown:

It's just two plastic pieces, wedged together and sealed in a galvanized casing. At the thicker parts of the arm, the plastic pieces get opened very little and close back up at the thinner areas. From closed to open, the bar starts off thin and gets thicker, before closing on the mid-way and final so-called "catching points."

The one I have feels stiff, but I know with the leverage from the door, it'll be the same ish.

I'm going to sip a little more coffee, take some pics and try to post them up before I crash out. I'll pry the sealing-tabs open tomorrow.

I sure hope something can be done about it! It drives me nuts! :whoa: I even dented my door jam last week, wedging a can of brake cleaner in there to hold it open. That's how I've always had to do it, but this time, my door got leaned on... :mrolleyes:

Lame!! Well at least we know how they work now.

27rocks
03-16-2011, 12:11 PM
F1 Racing Stage 2 Clutch
Yay or Nay?

I would go with Exedy... I have their typeS stock version and i love it. Very light and smooth. Next time i'll get a Stage1 just for a little firmer pedal feel.

nmysiismyn
03-19-2011, 09:37 PM
Well, here's what the casing looks like all opened up:

(Clickable Thumbnail)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/th_SDC12300copy600w.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/?action=view&current=SDC12300copy600w.jpg)

As you can see, the plastic has been worn down bigtime. That's probably the main issue we're dealing with.

Any suggestions? I'm thinking I might grind down some pennies and jam them in there, even though it's already super tight in there. :shrug:

RedSiBaron
03-22-2011, 10:00 AM
Well, here's what the casing looks like all opened up:

(Clickable Thumbnail)
http://i830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/th_SDC12300copy600w.jpg (http://s830.photobucket.com/albums/zz228/Tommy_Castroreale/EPHatch/?action=view&current=SDC12300copy600w.jpg)

As you can see, the plastic has been worn down bigtime. That's probably the main issue we're dealing with.

Any suggestions? I'm thinking I might grind down some pennies and jam them in there, even though it's already super tight in there. :shrug:

First off, srry I totally forgot about this issue you were dealing with, second, tommy did you take it apart and lay it out on a sweep to take a pic? This is why you're awesome hahaha...third let me chew on a solution to this for a couple hours and ill see if I can come up with a solution besides jamming pennies in it haha

nmysiismyn
03-22-2011, 10:34 AM
First off, srry I totally forgot about this issue you were dealing with, second, tommy did you take it apart and lay it out on a sweep to take a pic? This is why you're awesome hahaha...third let me chew on a solution to this for a couple hours and ill see if I can come up with a solution besides jamming pennies in it haha

A sweep? Haha...
I don't know what that means, but it sounds good, so... thanks bro! :thumbu: Just a crappy point-n-shoot, crappy light, copy paper backdrop and some Adobe magic. :mwink: Had me kinda missing doing Skunk2's product photography...

If you'd like the part, just hook it up with some shipping change and it's yours... LMK mang!



EDIT:
After seeing the issue firsthand, I have to assume every EP owner has this issue. If not, they will soon.

Jpax
03-23-2011, 10:27 PM
Does ANYONE know where I can find me some damn skinny open ended lug nuts?

Skinnier than the normal size. The wheels i have only fit a certain size.

http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info_frame.php?cPath=6424_4532_6190&products_id=116983

I had these on the FIT , they are skinny and open ended. not to long either so if you don't go extended lugs they don't look fugly

EDU
03-25-2011, 04:47 PM
Are the CTR cluster's plug and play? JDM or EDM... either one.

Jpax
03-27-2011, 11:02 AM
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?43592-CTR-gauge-cluster-and-dash-lighting-fix&highlight=

maybe that might shed some light on the subject. lol

PatrickJamesYu
03-28-2011, 11:32 AM
anybody have that picture or thread showing the h4 to h1 conversion harness?

SamuraiSi
03-29-2011, 10:30 AM
I'm putting back my intake manifold and throttle body and I don't have a torque wrench. I know 2 mechanics that I trust, one tells me that I should bolt everything back together to their specified torque, the other tells me that it's not necessary since it's just the intake mani and TB. What should I do?

RHCP0801
03-29-2011, 10:36 AM
its not necessary, just use your head and you will know when they are good and tight

ep3steez
03-29-2011, 12:29 PM
anybody have that picture or thread showing the h4 to h1 conversion harness?

Talk to Usedep3. He knows all about that and has a pretty good diagram.

DRP967
03-29-2011, 03:19 PM
Whats up, my front motor mount/transmission mount is shot...more specifically the rubber insert. I called up the dealer and its $120 for the front motor mount and and $110 for the transmission mount. Are there aftermarket motor mounts for the EP3? Aftermarket transmission mount? If so whats a good brand and are they better? Polyurethane aftermarket vs rubber stock. I read that the poly material is harder and will last longer at the expense of a little more vibration over the stock rubber mounts. Also is it bad to continue driving with worn motor/transmission mount? (driving gently ie. no racing/hard shifting/etc.)

vicx52o
03-29-2011, 03:23 PM
Whats up, my front motor mount/transmission mount is shot...more specifically the rubber insert. I called up the dealer and its $120 for the front motor mount and and $110 for the transmission mount. Are there aftermarket motor mounts for the EP3? Aftermarket transmission mount? If so whats a good brand and are they better? Polyurethane aftermarket vs rubber stock. I read that the poly material is harder and will last longer at the expense of a little more vibration over the stock rubber mounts. Also is it bad to continue driving with worn motor/transmission mount? (driving gently ie. no racing/hard shifting/etc.)

A bunch of people here on ephatch are running these:
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?52363-Official-Avid-Racing-Group-Buy-EP3-DC5-Motor-Mounts

I myself got some custom mounts made by a member that swapped in my K24.

DRP967
03-29-2011, 05:16 PM
A bunch of people here on ephatch are running these:
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?52363-Official-Avid-Racing-Group-Buy-EP3-DC5-Motor-Mounts

I myself got some custom mounts made by a member that swapped in my K24.

Thanks man.

nmysiismyn
03-29-2011, 06:45 PM
Whats up, my front motor mount/transmission mount is shot...more specifically the rubber insert. I called up the dealer and its $120 for the front motor mount and and $110 for the transmission mount. Are there aftermarket motor mounts for the EP3? Aftermarket transmission mount? If so whats a good brand and are they better? Polyurethane aftermarket vs rubber stock. I read that the poly material is harder and will last longer at the expense of a little more vibration over the stock rubber mounts. Also is it bad to continue driving with worn motor/transmission mount? (driving gently ie. no racing/hard shifting/etc.)

Want a solution that will cost you about $10 to $30??? Here ya go:

I let Skunk2 use my car as a guinea pig for their DIY motor mount video. It's DIRT-CHEAP! They say otherwise in the article, but using the Duramax 40/40 has my car HELLA stiff. It vibrates/rattles my whole car like crazy... but I like it. :mbiggrin:

You can use other stuff to fill them too- like urethane casting compounds (LIKE THESE HERE) (http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-casting-compounds/=bnfnia) or 3M Window Weld... but I can't vouch for those as I haven't tried them. I'm sure both are great and just a matter of preference.

You can see clearly at 1:50 that my mounts were already completely busted from them testing the EP3 Header clearance- revving the piss out of it, both open-header and cat-back installed. Thus the super crazy/drastic before-and-after. But shh... :secret:

BTW... I love the way she sounds. :mbiggrin:

You'll be okay to drive around on it- as long as you granny it. I did for a couple of months, but I don't recommend it. I recommend doing these DIY mounts- since it's so cheap and you can revive your otherwise trash part.

HERE'S A LINK TO THE VIDEO: CLICK HERE (http://cms.skunk2.com/id/190/06-CIVIC-SI-SOLID-ENGINE-MOUNT-HOW-TO/)

MadLorEP3
04-01-2011, 11:50 AM
awesome thread
time to use it

Just got 17x9+40
i can't decide between using 5 mm spacers to make it a +35 offset or a 10 mm spacers to make it a + 30 offset
im gonna be running 245/40/17 on the fronts and 235 on the rears
want to be FLUSH...tnx in advance

I already have my fenders rolled

ep3jd
04-01-2011, 12:44 PM
It might be hard with those beefy tires. I just got my 17x9 +25 but I'm pulling 205/40


If you do 10 mm you could prob pull those fenders and run like -4 degrees of camber in the rear

MadLorEP3
04-02-2011, 12:59 AM
It might be hard with those beefy tires. I just got my 17x9 +25 but I'm pulling 205/40


If you do 10 mm you could prob pull those fenders and run like -4 degrees of camber in the rear

tnx for your response, So r you saying I should go with 10 mm spacers instead of 5 mm

Which of the two spacers will allow me to have less negative camber 5mm (+35) or 10 mm (+30)?

I had 18x9.5+19 on my previous set up and did not have to pull any fenders but I had around neg 6 camber though

ep3jd
04-02-2011, 05:30 AM
5 would need less

MadLorEP3
04-02-2011, 10:33 AM
5 would need less

Tnx sir
I guess Im going with a 5 mm spacer

MadLorEP3
04-02-2011, 10:36 AM
I have read both 67.1 and 66.1 as our center bore size for the 04-05 ep3

can someone confirm which is the correct size

thanks

ep3jd
04-02-2011, 11:47 AM
According to rhcp0801, its 64.1

MadLorEP3
04-02-2011, 12:05 PM
According to rhcp0801, its 64.1

Damn ok tnx

ep3jd
04-02-2011, 12:37 PM
Np

27rocks
04-02-2011, 01:22 PM
Yeah run the 5mm spacer not the 10mm. The 10 will make the wheel stick out even further which you will need more camber to fit. I'm running 245's in the back on mine with only -2.8 with rolled fenders and i don't rub. 235's will clear even better. Depending on your drop you will most likely run -2.4 to -3.2 at most.

MadLorEP3
04-02-2011, 04:49 PM
Yeah run the 5mm spacer not the 10mm. The 10 will make the wheel stick out even further which you will need more camber to fit. I'm running 245's in the back on mine with only -2.8 with rolled fenders and i don't rub. 235's will clear even better. Depending on your drop you will most likely run -2.4 to -3.2 at most.

awesome bro

thanks for the confirmation

im definitely set on running 5 mm spacers now, Ill probably just do 235's in the rear, but definitely 245's in the fronts
Im getting them hub centric and wheel centric as well

I've read that some people get away without getting extended studs on 5 mm spacers where as others could not
Some people says it depends on the wheel

I guess I'll find out when I get my wheels

But the question is, if I do decide to get studs, how long should I go with?
tnx

27rocks
04-02-2011, 06:23 PM
Want a solution that will cost you about $10 to $30??? Here ya go:

I let Skunk2 use my car as a guinea pig for their DIY motor mount video. It's DIRT-CHEAP! They say otherwise in the article, but using the Duramax 40/40 has my car HELLA stiff. It vibrates/rattles my whole car like crazy... but I like it. :mbiggrin:

You can use other stuff to fill them too- like urethane casting compounds (LIKE THESE HERE) (http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-casting-compounds/=bnfnia) or 3M Window Weld... but I can't vouch for those as I haven't tried them. I'm sure both are great and just a matter of preference.

You can see clearly at 1:50 that my mounts were already completely busted from them testing the EP3 Header clearance- revving the piss out of it, both open-header and cat-back installed. Thus the super crazy/drastic before-and-after. But shh... :secret:

BTW... I love the way she sounds. :mbiggrin:

You'll be okay to drive around on it- as long as you granny it. I did for a couple of months, but I don't recommend it. I recommend doing these DIY mounts- since it's so cheap and you can revive your otherwise trash part.

HERE'S A LINK TO THE VIDEO: CLICK HERE (http://cms.skunk2.com/id/190/06-CIVIC-SI-SOLID-ENGINE-MOUNT-HOW-TO/)


I can vouch for the 3M window weld stuff. I did this a a couple of years ago when i had my tranny off for a clutch replacement. The whole tube cost me like $16 and a good weekend. It is extremely hard once it dries and it bonds to the original rubber. My advise for someone looking into doing this is to make sure you fully wait at least two days to let it set and firm up before you put the mounts back on. Also that stuff is stickier then anything i have ever played with and it stains everything. Wear gloves and use some cardboard to do it over (it gets everywhere no matter how careful you are). Once i put the mounts back on i noticed a huge difference in stiffness not only shifting but also when engaging the clutch/idling. It was definitely worth the time and effort and i highly recommend it over any other mounts. Everything is just as stiff as day one.



awesome bro

thanks for the confirmation

im definitely set on running 5 mm spacers now, Ill probably just do 235's in the rear, but definitely 245's in the fronts
Im getting them hub centric and wheel centric as well

I've read that some people get away without getting extended studs on 5 mm spacers where as others could not
Some people says it depends on the wheel

I guess I'll find out when I get my wheels

But the question is, if I do decide to get studs, how long should I go with?
tnx
Well like you said it really depends on the wheels, but the difference will be very minor. I don't really know how long the extended studs are compared to stock so i cant really tell you which length to get. Common sense tells me that they will most likely be at least 10mm to 15mm longer or more for the shorter ones available. Those should be plenty imo over stock.

nmysiismyn
04-03-2011, 05:24 AM
I can vouch for the 3M window weld stuff. I did this a a couple of years ago when i had my tranny off for a clutch replacement. The whole tube cost me like $16 and a good weekend. It is extremely hard once it dries and it bonds to the original rubber. My advise for someone looking into doing this is to make sure you fully wait at least two days to let it set and firm up before you put the mounts back on. Also that stuff is stickier then anything i have ever played with and it stains everything. Wear gloves and use some cardboard to do it over (it gets everywhere no matter how careful you are). Once i put the mounts back on i noticed a huge difference in stiffness not only shifting but also when engaging the clutch/idling. It was definitely worth the time and effort and i highly recommend it over any other mounts. Everything is just as stiff as day one.

Yup. Quite a dramatic difference... with less wheel hop too.

The cool thing about the epoxy is that it only takes a few hours to cure... I've heard of people having a completely busted mount, jacking the motor up to center it in the mount and doing it with everything still installed. LOL. I bet it works fine now too.

tatsu666
04-03-2011, 10:34 PM
dumb question :D what is the width size on stock 15" rims? is it 15x6?? what's the max width i can run with 2" drop?

MadLorEP3
04-04-2011, 10:21 AM
1) Can anyone confirm the center bore size of the 04 ep3? (ep not with me so I can't measure it)
64.1, 66.1, 67.1mm thanks


2) I'm found a great deal on an stoptech bbk with rotors that was on a type-s rsx
I've read that I can pretty much just swap this onto my 04 ep3, can someone confirm this as well?
Will I need anything else besides the rotors, calipers and pads that was on this type-s?

tnx

Ba82Ep3
04-04-2011, 01:11 PM
2) I'm found a great deal on an stoptech bbk with rotors that was on a type-s rsx
I've read that I can pretty much just swap this onto my 04 ep3, can someone confirm this as well?
Will I need anything else besides the rotors, calipers and pads that was on this type-s?

tnx

You need RSX-S calipers, pads, pad retaining clips, and the rotors. Its a direct bolt on affair for the front of 5 lug EP's.

27rocks
04-04-2011, 03:21 PM
1) Can anyone confirm the center bore size of the 04 ep3? (ep not with me so I can't measure it)
64.1, 66.1, 67.1mm thanks


2) I'm found a great deal on an stoptech bbk with rotors that was on a type-s rsx
I've read that I can pretty much just swap this onto my 04 ep3, can someone confirm this as well?
Will I need anything else besides the rotors, calipers and pads that was on this type-s?

tnx

Everythign should bolt up with no issues. Make sure the kit comes with caliper washers too.. sometimes you need very thin washers to center the caliper from the rotor (all BBK's come with them) otherwise you run the risk of grinding the caliper against the rotors. Also if it doesnt already come with them i would get some new brake lines from Stop-Tech that are recomended for that specific kit (it just makes everything easier).

tatsu666
04-04-2011, 09:25 PM
please don't skip my question! =(

27rocks
04-04-2011, 09:35 PM
dumb question :D what is the width size on stock 15" rims? is it 15x6?? what's the max width i can run with 2" drop?

I believe they are 15x6 or 6.5's cant remember. The max really depends on what size tires you want and what your looking to get out of the set up. You have to narrow it down to what you really want in the end. Best way to fing out is to go to the wheel/suspension section and check out "the new wheel/suspension" thread and search to see what you are looking for. There are plenty of different sizes, widths, offsets to choose and look from.

MadLorEP3
04-05-2011, 01:19 AM
You need RSX-S calipers, pads, pad retaining clips, and the rotors. Its a direct bolt on affair for the front of 5 lug EP's.


Everythign should bolt up with no issues. Make sure the kit comes with caliper washers too.. sometimes you need very thin washers to center the caliper from the rotor (all BBK's come with them) otherwise you run the risk of grinding the caliper against the rotors. Also if it doesnt already come with them i would get some new brake lines from Stop-Tech that are recomended for that specific kit (it just makes everything easier).

thanks guys...much appreciated

Twisted-X
04-05-2011, 02:33 PM
Anyone know if the new Skunk2 header will fit a k24 with an EM2 sway?

DRP967
04-05-2011, 08:53 PM
Whats up, I have a 05 EP3 with Ground Control sleeves/Koni Yellow shocks. Its dropped to zero finger gap all around and the wheels/tires are 17X7, +45 Enkei RPF1s wrapped with some Toyos (215/45/17). Currently my car's alignment is set up to stock specs. My question is can I run -1 camber front/rear without eating up my tires? This is a daily driver. Reason I ask is because my friend with a DC2 suggested that the car will sit better in terms of looks aka its stance. Also will doing this make it handle worse in terms of steering response? Last time my car had some negative camber that wasnt stock specs and the steering felt heavy and sluggish. Now I know having my car lowered this much already affected handling but I still need the car to be twitchy and responsive and im wondering if with the -1 camber the handling characteristics will still be the same. Thanks

Cliffs:
1. Will -1 camber cause tires to wear out really fast?
2. Will -1 camber make steering response feel slow and sluggish?

MajorJones
04-05-2011, 09:01 PM
Cliffs:
1. Will -1 camber cause tires to wear out really fast?
2. Will -1 camber make steering response feel slow and sluggish?

1. really fast? My answer would be nope. -1 really isnt that much. im -2.7 in the front and my tires still look fine and new ( i check weekly)
2. Im not to sure since i've never drove on -1. im -2.7 in the front and -6 rear and it changed the response quite well but my guess would be not really enough to notice any change with -1

My 2cents...

27rocks
04-05-2011, 09:12 PM
1. really fast? My answer would be nope. -1 really isnt that much. im -2.7 in the front and my tires still look fine and new ( i check weekly)
2. Im not to sure since i've never drove on -1. im -2.7 in the front and -6 rear and it changed the response quite well but my guess would be not really enough to notice any change with -1

My 2cents...

Holly shit!!! -2.7 up front and -6 in the back????!!! Does your car even turn lol.. that thing must push so hard in corners.

Guardian
04-05-2011, 09:35 PM
Holly shit!!! -2.7 up front and -6 in the back????!!! Does your car even turn lol.. that thing must push so hard in corners.

but it looks cool?

27rocks
04-05-2011, 09:44 PM
but it looks cool?

It does?? :mredface:

DRP967
04-05-2011, 09:53 PM
1. really fast? My answer would be nope. -1 really isnt that much. im -2.7 in the front and my tires still look fine and new ( i check weekly)
2. Im not to sure since i've never drove on -1. im -2.7 in the front and -6 rear and it changed the response quite well but my guess would be not really enough to notice any change with -1

My 2cents...

Much appreciation for the input.

MadLorEP3
04-06-2011, 07:56 AM
stoopid question but Im feeling cheap

Do you guys think that it would be ok to cheap out and get these (since its only 5mm spacers)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380328693779&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2367wt_1044

instead of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200496624505&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2445wt_962

tnx

ace of spades
04-06-2011, 08:06 AM
stoopid question but Im feeling cheap

Do you guys think that it would be ok to cheap out and get these (since its only 5mm spacers)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380328693779&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2367wt_1044

instead of these

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200496624505&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2445wt_962

tnx

you're feeling cheap? have you seen your car? as mint as your car is, just get the H&R kit.

gamma6
04-06-2011, 09:40 AM
It does?? :mredface:

bet its hellaflush... haha
prob running 002's cuz those camber settings are close to mine... front -2* and rear -4.5*
iirc dont u hate it???

EPo3Hatch
04-08-2011, 07:09 PM
ok here is my dumb question that i have searched and found some info but not sure if its everything i need.: i have an 03 and bought a 02-03 jdm bumper with airwalker lip. I know i need a jdm rebar ( dont want to chop my rebar). is that all i need? Will it sit flush with the headlights and fenders? thanks to any help

MadLorEP3
04-08-2011, 07:37 PM
It will be perfect bro

PatrickJamesYu
04-08-2011, 07:41 PM
It does?? :mredface:

hahaha

BeaterEP
04-09-2011, 10:16 PM
Technically, isn't it excessive toe, not camber that eats tires?

RedSiBaron
04-09-2011, 10:24 PM
Technically, isn't it excessive toe, not camber that eats tires?

in my experience, excessive toe on the drive wheels destroys 60k warranty tires in 10k miles:mangel:, that was an expensive lesson at the age of 16 on bridgestones.


...you do the math

BeaterEP
04-10-2011, 08:09 AM
LOL ouch. :mbiggrin:

nmysiismyn
04-10-2011, 08:43 AM
Any suggestions on what kind of filler I should use for filling the chips my center dash garnish would be appreciated. :mbiggrin:

I decided that I'm going to paint all the silver garnish in my car landau black (center dash/radio, door handles/knobs/levers.)

I haven't decided if I'm going to use a satin clearcoat yet :mrolleyes: ... Probably won't. I'm cheap! :tehe:

mitchlikesbikes
04-10-2011, 09:33 AM
Any suggestions on what kind of filler I should use for filling the chips my center dash garnish would be appreciated. :mbiggrin:

I decided that I'm going to paint all the silver garnish in my car landau black (center dash/radio, door handles/knobs/levers.)

I haven't decided if I'm going to use a satin clearcoat yet :mrolleyes: ... Probably won't. I'm cheap! :tehe:

wood filller! haha just kidding. they sell smallish tubes of bondo at autozone for like ~$8. that would probably work the best i think. i haven't really used anything else though:P

RedSiBaron
04-10-2011, 10:40 AM
Glazing putty

nmysiismyn
04-10-2011, 11:42 AM
wood filller! haha just kidding. they sell smallish tubes of bondo at autozone for like ~$8. that would probably work the best i think. i haven't really used anything else though:P

Bondo to plastic would be a fail for sure. With Cali's summer heat, it won't take long at all to crack.


Glazing putty

Thanks Charles. Haven't heard that one yet.. I was thinking some epoxy or something.

RedSiBaron
04-10-2011, 12:31 PM
Bondo to plastic would be a fail for sure. With Cali's summer heat, it won't take long at all to crack.



Thanks Charles. Haven't heard that one yet.. I was thinking some epoxy or something.

Epoxy will be hard as hell to block sand with the softer plastic...plus epoxy doesn't always like these harder interior plastics...my suggestion to help everything stick is use etching primer on it first to help create a bonding layer, then light scuff the areas you'll use glazing putty (also called glazing compound) then sand the whole thing wwith some 220 and then step up grits until you think its smooth, reapply thin layer of etch if you burnt through it, smooth, then shoot with paint...finish the paint as you like

thakid
04-11-2011, 01:26 AM
Quick question. I was going with a k24a2 swap but might go k24a1(money). Does everything that fits the k24a2 fit the k24a1. Such as. Ssr header, rrc intake manifold, ect. And will the type s tranny be a good setup with the k24a1 all motor?

j0000stin
04-11-2011, 02:15 AM
Quick question. I was going with a k24a2 swap but might go k24a1(money). Does everything that fits the k24a2 fit the k24a1. Such as. Ssr header, rrc intake manifold, ect. And will the type s tranny be a good setup with the k24a1 all motor?

everything will bolt over. the type s tranny will be fine but what you want is a good clutch and pressure plate to hold the power cus stock isnt going to cut it haha

thakid
04-11-2011, 11:38 AM
I'm going all motor. K24a1. Daily driver.

What stage clutch? What lbs fly wheel should I go with?

And will the type s tranny help at all with the all motor setup?

Which ssr header is best? Dc5, 4-1 or 4-2-1?

nmysiismyn
04-11-2011, 05:36 PM
glazing putty (also called glazing compound)

THAT sounds more familiar to me. LOL. Thanks bud!!! :thumbu:

EDU
04-11-2011, 05:50 PM
anybody here running the Mugen III stering wheel with the Boss hub??

mangvue05si
04-11-2011, 09:40 PM
I have 2 questions,

Are there any miracle x bars for the ep3, or you have to mod a rsx one?

P2r throttle spacer in a turbo car or just go oem?

ep3steez
04-12-2011, 10:10 PM
I have seen some debate on this in other threads, but there was no solid answer... I was wondering when/if I would need to change the serpentine belt?
Also! What is the suggested maintenance at 80,000 miles? she's getting close.

RedSiBaron
04-12-2011, 10:16 PM
I have seen some debate on this in other threads, but there was no solid answer... I was wondering when/if I would need to change the serpentine belt?
Also! What is the suggested maintenance at 80,000 miles? she's getting close.

i changed my serp belt around 65k and 85k...its cheap enough that i just change it when its convenient and its showing some cracks

i changed the idler and the tensioner pully too just for the fuck of it...

i do more of the "im here, WHY DONT I CHANGE IT" maintenance person...but its never failed me

ep3steez
04-12-2011, 10:26 PM
i changed my serp belt around 65k and 85k...its cheap enough that i just change it when its convenient and its showing some cracks

i changed the idler and the tensioner pully too just for the fuck of it...

i do more of the "im here, WHY DONT I CHANGE IT" maintenance person...but its never failed me

I hear ya. Definitely not a bad way to go about doing things. I was gunna bring my car to the stealership for some regular maintenance; including the serp belt. Should I just make it a DIY project or go about this legitimately?
Not to sure how to go about changing the belt.

RedSiBaron
04-12-2011, 10:29 PM
personally i feel that changing the belt is stupid simple...it is one of the most DIY projects you can do, iirc, you dont even need to unbolt anything

ep3steez
04-12-2011, 10:34 PM
personally i feel that changing the belt is stupid simple...it is one of the most DIY projects you can do, iirc, you dont even need to unbolt anything

I'll have to lurk through the Helm's manual. Thanks for the help.

SamuraiSi
04-13-2011, 05:44 AM
I also need to do this and I was going to get the serpentine belt from Honda so I'd have piece of mind that it would last me another 85k miles, but I'd like some input on the belts I can get from Advance/Auto Zone. Has anyone tried these. Do they last as long? Is there another place you guys get them besides Honda that have the same quality?

Thanks

ep3jd
04-13-2011, 06:31 AM
I have a gates belt I got from my job. Gates products are good.


And my idler pulley is gates as well.

SamuraiSi
04-13-2011, 08:51 AM
Is it recommended to replace the idler pulley as well, or was there another reason why you changed yours?


I have a gates belt I got from my job. Gates products are good.


And my idler pulley is gates as well.

RedSiBaron
04-13-2011, 08:54 AM
Is it recommended to replace the idler pulley as well, or was there another reason why you changed yours?

I would just spin it and listen for bearing noise. I just replace both the idler and tensioner with the belt every 20k. really I end up doing it because im doing something else on the car and its convenient.

RHCP0801
04-13-2011, 08:58 AM
replacing the tensioner, idler and belt every 20k is very unnecessary

ep3jd
04-13-2011, 09:03 AM
Is it recommended to replace the idler pulley as well, or was there another reason why you changed yours?

http://tapa.tk/mu/d0362d3d-c9a7-7339.jpg

RedSiBaron
04-13-2011, 09:09 AM
replacing the tensioner, idler and belt every 20k is very unnecessary

No shit...

I just do it because its cheap enough and already torn apart. mind you wwith only 20k on the belt it was cracking. Plus the last time I did it was this last july after my a/c compressor blew up, clutch went bad, and blew motor mounts. The last time the tensioner and belt had been changed was 20k miles before in 2008...the idler id never done because I bought the car certified at 45k. So it was either original or replaced.

I don't put a lot of mileage on my car very quickly. Though ill tell you the tensioner and idler bearings were both fairly noisy even with only 20k on them.

I try replace parts early on all my cars, I don't wait until things go bad, I just wait until they show they are wearing out and either rebuild or replace. This is why I don't have car disasters like so many people I know.

ep3jd
04-13-2011, 09:14 AM
I got my car with 69k, at 127k the idler went.. 20k seems way premature especially for a 20 dollar, ten minute fix.


Just sayin..

RHCP0801
04-13-2011, 09:21 AM
your just wasting your money doing it at 20k, i just changed the original belt after 7 years and it still wasnt cracked or anything. If the belt you have is cracking at 20k, try a different brand

RedSiBaron
04-13-2011, 09:24 AM
I got my car with 69k, at 127k the idler went.. 20k seems way premature especially for a 20 dollar, ten minute fix.


Just sayin..

But if I already have it torn apart, $20 is cheaper than a tow if it were to fail, and it had been a couple years and a couple winters...would I suggest anyone change their pullyes every 20k? Hell no! But throwing $60 at the idler tensioner and belt every couple years because im doing something that required pulling it apart, im just going to go ahead and replace them. $60 is cheap enough to just do it while im in there., instead of putting old worn and noisy stuff back on.

You can do preventative (or repair?)maintenance on your car how you want, and ill do it how I want.

SamuraiSi
04-13-2011, 09:24 AM
thanks for the input guys

ep3jd
04-13-2011, 09:29 AM
Why would you tow your car for a 1 bolt fix? You can do that where it happened with a wrench and a breaker bar. Like I did.


And the only reason this conversation is happening is because it seemed as if you WERE recommending changing every 20k, but now that you've cleared that up...


/topic

RedSiBaron
04-13-2011, 09:37 AM
Why would you tow your car for a 1 bolt fix? You can do that where it happened with a wrench and a breaker bar. Like I did.


And the only reason this conversation is happening is because it seemed as if you WERE recommending changing every 20k, but now that you've cleared that up...


/topic

My point being is I've never had a break down on the side of the road my entire life...

And my response was perfectly clear, in no way did I say that anyone should change at 20k, I've only indicated that I did it that often because I was in there...

ep3jd
04-13-2011, 09:39 AM
/topic

jed_averill
04-13-2011, 03:42 PM
Randomly hearing noises similar to two washers banging each other while cruising on the street/freeway. A week later, my Engine light lit up. Noise is still present on random times that last for a minute. The noise seems to be coming from the rear passenger side (I could be wrong but I'm sure it's on the rear).

?

RHCP0801
04-13-2011, 03:43 PM
what was the code for

thakid
04-13-2011, 06:37 PM
I'm going all motor. K24a1. Daily driver.

What stage clutch? What lbs fly wheel should I go with?

And will the type s tranny help at all with the all motor setup?

Which ssr header is best? Dc5, 4-1 or 4-2-1?

This ^^^

jed_averill
04-13-2011, 09:40 PM
what was the code for

I haven't done that...

EDU
04-14-2011, 06:45 PM
anybody have a "HOW TO..." remove the stering wheel link?
thnx

EDU
04-14-2011, 07:03 PM
nvmnd found it:

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?43643-DIY-Stock-Steering-Wheel-Removal/page3

MBaG
04-14-2011, 09:30 PM
This ^^^

4-1 for better top end power.
4-2-1 for better low/mid range.

SkareKrow
04-14-2011, 09:50 PM
4-1 for better top end power.
4-2-1 for better low/mid range.

Thanks, I learned something new today!

Sent from my HTC Evo 4G using TapaTalk Version 1.11.5!

SkareKrow
04-14-2011, 10:12 PM
your just wasting your money doing it at 20k, i just changed the original belt after 7 years and it still wasnt cracked or anything. If the belt you have is cracking at 20k, try a different brand

Curious what would be a good brand for the serpentine belt?

Sent from my HTC Evo 4G using TapaTalk Version 1.11.5!

ep3jd
04-15-2011, 05:01 AM
Gates

SkareKrow
04-15-2011, 09:02 AM
Gates

Thanks. Appreciate it.

Sent from my HTC Evo 4G using TapaTalk Version 1.11.5!

thakid
04-16-2011, 04:50 PM
Going with the ssr header 4-2-1. Which exhaust is best for that setup for all motor? Nothing to loud. Its a daily driver.

BigBurch422
04-16-2011, 08:10 PM
OKAY quick/stupid question- will a 225 tire work fine on a 7" wide wheel, or would i be better off shooting for at least 7.5" wide?

McLovin
04-18-2011, 12:49 AM
I don't have permission to sell things and need to read the rules and contribute more to have enough posts to sell

02TWSI
04-18-2011, 12:54 AM
OKAY quick/stupid question- will a 225 tire work fine on a 7" wide wheel, or would i be better off shooting for at least 7.5" wide?

you'll be fine.

MBaG
04-18-2011, 04:22 PM
I've seen a handful of people match up our stock axleback with a t1r midpipe.. and I was wondering would that gain power or lose power? Since the axleback has smaller piper (?) and it would be choking?

jed_averill
04-18-2011, 05:51 PM
I think with a smaller pipe you gain low/mid power but sacrificing mid/high.

EDU
04-18-2011, 08:33 PM
will turbo kits for RSX and ep3 be 100% compatible?
how about the ic piping?

ep3colin
04-18-2011, 09:45 PM
OKAY quick/stupid question- will a 225 tire work fine on a 7" wide wheel, or would i be better off shooting for at least 7.5" wide?

im running 225-45-16 on a 16x7 rota grid, perfectly fine and the tires looks so sexy when they are beefy