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White02_hatch
04-01-2011, 02:05 PM
I just wrapped up cleaning the IAC and put everything back together and now the idle is off. It runs rough for about 5 seconds then bounces from 2000 to 2500. I searched for idle problems and the like but nothing seems to answer my question. Talon I need you!:msmooch:

widebodyeg
04-01-2011, 02:48 PM
what did you clean the iacv with

56chevydan
04-01-2011, 03:05 PM
After cleaning the iacv, did you do the idle re-learn?

White02_hatch
04-01-2011, 06:51 PM
what did you clean the iacv with
Brake cleaner and sea foam


After cleaning the iacv, did you do the idle re-learn?
Does "wtf is the idle re-learn?" answer your question? lol

emsep
04-01-2011, 07:02 PM
do the idle re-learn, it should solve your problem.

White02_hatch
04-01-2011, 07:47 PM
so let the cars idle jump around for 5 minutes and turn it off then it should be fine?

56chevydan
04-01-2011, 09:33 PM
Read post #7 here from talonXracer answering another post on this forum about idling problems.......http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?62974-Car-dies........WHILE-DRIVING

White02_hatch
04-02-2011, 09:06 AM
Then yes I have tried exactly what talon says. BUT it is impossible to keep the rpms at 3k because of the bouncing around. So I am at a loss as to what to do for it to "learn" where to idle again since I cant do the procedure the right way.

Jpax
04-02-2011, 09:56 AM
If the idle is bouncing around you have a vacuum leak of some sort Check around your intake, and check to make sure you have a gasket between everything, head - intake - throttlebodie, and check your hoses for cracks. jumping idle is usally a result of a leak.
you can use a little white lithium grease on the the IAC to help it spool

White02_hatch
04-02-2011, 10:24 AM
I checked all them and all the gaskets that came off are back on. only thing I can think off is maybe the little o-ring between the sensor and iac maybe is a little loose. like it got a little stretched and now isnt maintaining a seal. Sound like it could be the culprit?

Draw7Seven
04-02-2011, 12:16 PM
I checked all them and all the gaskets that came off are back on. only thing I can think off is maybe the little o-ring between the sensor and iac maybe is a little loose. like it got a little stretched and now isnt maintaining a seal. Sound like it could be the culprit?

If air can get through anywhere it's not helping the problem. At best it's contributing to something else, it could be the entire source of your issues.

talonXracer
04-02-2011, 12:25 PM
Does the rotor spin absolutely free, no rough spots? Seafoam and brake cleaner, nasty bad choices,,,just use WD40 next time. The IACV's bearings could be shot, it could be time for a new one.

Remove the intake so you can actually put your fingers into the TB and start the engine and cover the Idle air port and see if that helps, if not break out a propane bottle and turn it on without lighting it and asearch for the vacuum leak.

White02_hatch
04-02-2011, 03:17 PM
Does the rotor spin absolutely free, no rough spots? Seafoam and brake cleaner, nasty bad choices,,,just use WD40 next time. The IACV's bearings could be shot, it could be time for a new one.

Remove the intake so you can actually put your fingers into the TB and start the engine and cover the Idle air port and see if that helps, if not break out a propane bottle and turn it on without lighting it and asearch for the vacuum leak.

The WD-40 wasnt getting all the carbon build up out of the inside of it. So I soaked it in the sea foam and went to town with a toothbrush. There IS a rough spot when you turn it but I didnt think it would be that big a deal becaise it still spins easy. But from the sounds of it a new one is in order..

Draw7Seven
04-02-2011, 07:09 PM
You can buy some IACV cleaner next time that does a great job without being quite as hardcore as brake cleaner or Seafoam. Too late now, but that stuff worked wonders on my roommates 88 328i convertible (whose TB hadn't seen the light of day since '88, by the looks of things).

White02_hatch
04-02-2011, 08:32 PM
Any ideas as to where to get a new one cheaper than the 320 bucks auto zone and oreily's wants? Iam hoping for a decent quality one from a place like I bought my idler pulley and bracket from back when it broke. I dont remember the sites name so Im hoping that someone can link me back to them.

*edit Found the site:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2002&catcgry3=3DR+SI&catcgry4=KA5MT&catcgry5=THROTTLE+BODY

If im not mistaken #1 is what I would need. Labled as rotary air control correct?

Ep3some
04-04-2011, 09:24 PM
yeah #1 is what you need. Also should get #2 (TB gasket) since you have to remove the TB to get the IACV off anyway.

White02_hatch
04-09-2011, 05:40 PM
Bump for new info:


Got the new part in and installed (gasket is a pain in the ass to scrape off) and car is running good again. Idle is lower than before and more smooth. But now the EPS light is on and staying on. I dont have a clue how this could have been affected by the iacv going bad but apparently it can. Is there some kind of fuse or something somewhere that may have went in the process? Any suggestions are always welcome. I love you guys for ALWAYS helping with any problems and I need you again!

White02_hatch
04-10-2011, 07:11 AM
Nevermind the last post. Got it out and drove around and the EPS light went off and power steering is fine. Have no clue why it stayed on but whatever its not now. Thanks for all the help fellas.