Header purchasing decision

[kaotik78]

Hi,

I've got a DC Sports cat back exhaust, and a JRSC system on it's way. I'm looking to put a header on the car before I add the JRSC then to get it tuned.

Between the horrific BS on ebay and all the clone knockoffs, I'm confused about fitment and quality.

I saw the DC Sports race header has a flexpipe on it (I hate flexpipes as they end up leading to failure, my personal experience in the past)

OBX Header on fleabay (everyone keeps saying get v2, but I can't find any info on WTF v2 is, even on obx's site) And with the obx header, will I be able to retain my catalytic converter, this is a daily driver.

Skunk2 header, expensive, but I believe you get what you pay for. Since nobody puts up quality information with regards to their products. No dyno sheets, manufacturing processes, just "here's a go fast bolt on part, it's shiny and cheap buy it", I'd like to hear from those who have one of the above.

Thanks!

[RHCP0801]

http://www.speedstar-racing.com/store/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/31_49_130/products_id/287

i have this one, minus having to modify the test pipe a bit its been a great header and is now on my k24 swap

[AKEP]

kiddracing/private label/crsx race header. all day.

[T_Virus]

The race header eliminates the catalytic converter. So you will not be able to retain your catalytic converter. But, you can get it weld on though

[ep3jd]

I like my obx header. Because I'm cheap.

[05 hatch]

I have a DC rh and I'm able to run a progress front sway bar. The other rh that akep posted are better but I've heard of them hitting the front sway, or maybe that's only with a k24 swap. Maybe someone will chime in on that!

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[MugenReplica]

The OBX version 2 is an EXACT copy of the Comptech race header, but in stainless steel.

The Kiddracing/Clubrsx/Private Label race header is an exact copy of the SSR header.

Also if you want to know about quality, when I received my OBX, it came with a lifetime warranty card to be filled out and returned to the company. Guessing a majority of the younger members on here have never taken advantage of a warranty because they've been raised in a "throw away society" I doubt it matters to many members on here.

[05 hatch]

The OBX version 2 is an EXACT copy of the Comptech race header, but in stainless steel.

The Kiddracing/Clubrsx/Private Label race header is an exact copy of the SSR header.

Also if you want to know about quality, when I received my OBX, it came with a lifetime warranty card to be filled out and returned to the company. Guessing a majority of the younger members on here have never taken advantage of a warranty because they've been raised in a "throw away society" I doubt it matters to many members on here.

Wow! Good to know. I was raised in the, " you can throw your parts away to me society." Lol

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

[T_Virus]

The OBX version 2 is an EXACT copy of the Comptech race header, but in stainless steel.

The Kiddracing/Clubrsx/Private Label race header is an exact copy of the SSR header.

Also if you want to know about quality, when I received my OBX, it came with a lifetime warranty card to be filled out and returned to the company. Guessing a majority of the younger members on here have never taken advantage of a warranty because they've been raised in a "throw away society" I doubt it matters to many members on here.

Oh Yeah, I remember I got the warranty card too for the OBX RH Vers 2. I've sent it in or did something to it. For the price the OBX RH vers 2 is a good buy and if you can spend a little more then the option of KRRH is recommened.

[kaotik78]

Not to get too off topic, yes it has become a disposable society in the states I've noticed. I've got a mig/tig welder and oxy outfit I've acquired from years of keeping my cars on the road and avoiding overpriced dealer fees so if it breaks I can fix it more or less.

Rats on the race headers eliminating the catalytic converter, I'd like to avoid any hassles having no cat on my car would incur, especially when it comes to state inspection time.

So the only option for me then would be to go with the DC Short header that mates up to the downpipe which is connected to the catalytic converter? But DC is mild steel not stainless, right? I live in NH and they love to salt the hell out of everything on the roads, I'd rather go for stainless.

While I could cut the OBX header and shorten it to accommodate a catalytic converter, I'd love to avoid it if at all possible.

Then again I wonder since we do not do a true "emissions" test here, just plug in to the obd-II port come inspection time, if I would be able to get by? Dealership would most likely see this and flag it, but mabye johnny shade-tree might not? Ugh, crap like this stresses me out :(

[ep-unit]

kiddracing/private label/crsx race header. all day.

yah this....

[j0000stin]

Not to get too off topic, yes it has become a disposable society in the states I've noticed. I've got a mig/tig welder and oxy outfit I've acquired from years of keeping my cars on the road and avoiding overpriced dealer fees so if it breaks I can fix it more or less.

Rats on the race headers eliminating the catalytic converter, I'd like to avoid any hassles having no cat on my car would incur, especially when it comes to state inspection time.

So the only option for me then would be to go with the DC Short header that mates up to the downpipe which is connected to the catalytic converter? But DC is mild steel not stainless, right? I live in NH and they love to salt the hell out of everything on the roads, I'd rather go for stainless.

While I could cut the OBX header and shorten it to accommodate a catalytic converter, I'd love to avoid it if at all possible.

Then again I wonder since we do not do a true "emissions" test here, just plug in to the obd-II port come inspection time, if I would be able to get by? Dealership would most likely see this and flag it, but mabye johnny shade-tree might not? Ugh, crap like this stresses me out :(

since you weld. you can get a rh, cut up your stock cat and weld it on.

[MugenReplica]

Rats on the race headers eliminating the catalytic converter, I'd like to avoid any hassles having no cat on my car would incur, especially when it comes to state inspection time.


While I could cut the OBX header and shorten it to accommodate a catalytic converter, I'd love to avoid it if at all possible.

Then again I wonder since we do not do a true "emissions" test here, just plug in to the obd-II port come inspection time, if I would be able to get by? Dealership would most likely see this and flag it, but mabye johnny shade-tree might not? Ugh, crap like this stresses me out :(

In the case of definitely needing a cat, I understand. I'm in NY and recently I had to deal with my inspection mechanic moving, if you get my drift. Just get the Kidd Racing/Private Label/Clubrsx SSR replica and PM TalonXracer for advice. I may have to do the same very very soon...

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?49174-header-cyl-pairing-gains&p=631995&viewfull=1#post631995

[Twisted-X]

http://www.speedstar-racing.com/store/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/31_49_130/products_id/287

i have this one, minus having to modify the test pipe a bit its been a great header and is now on my k24 swap

Just curious what sway are you using with this? How did you have to modify the test pipe?

[kaotik78]

In the case of definitely needing a cat, I understand. I'm in NY and recently I had to deal with my inspection mechanic moving, if you get my drift. Just get the Kidd Racing/Private Label/Clubrsx SSR replica and PM TalonXracer for advice. I may have to do the same very very soon...

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?49174-header-cyl-pairing-gains&p=631995&viewfull=1#post631995

I most certainly do catch your drift. Thanks for the link to the other thread. Now that I have another visual to go off of. Where the OBX Race header begins to bend under the car is where I'd most likely move the collector backwards and tig it back together, then measure the length of the factory cat |-----| so all I had to do would be to bolt the cat to the header, then the midpipe to the other end and viola, nice clean, and replaceable should the cat ever foul. Now if I was 19 or 20 I'd have just welded everything together and said to hell with it ;) Funny how age changes how you do things.

I'm wondering now what the point would be to buy the DC header, since that seems to just bolt up to the factory downpipe which has the cat connected to it already.

I think lots of this is all guesswork till I get it all together and get it tuned up. Thanks again for the insight!

[RHCP0801]

I live in NY also but being a former tech you get to know people and places that will just run it through without even looking over the car


Just curious what sway are you using with this? How did you have to modify the test pipe?

stock sway, only thing i had to modify was the midpipe because it was hitting the body but once i changed to a 3" exhaust i had no problems at all

[vicx52o]

I'd go with a KRRH/Private label/CRSX... From what I can remember, the OBX header is one piece whereas the KRRH/Private label/CRSX comes ine two pieces. You can def replace the test pipe portion for a high flow cat. The only downside to running this header is the fact that you'll have to replace your stock midpipe for a DC5-S spec midpipe.

[vicx52o]

The OBX version 2 is an EXACT copy of the Comptech race header, but in stainless steel.

The Kiddracing/Clubrsx/Private Label race header is an exact copy of the SSR header.

SSR = six sigma racing... not SPEEDstar racing
I know MugenReplica knows this... just clarifying for noobs that don't know.

The KRRH is a great piece! I'm very happy I went with it. What really got me to purchase it was the fact that you can run it on both k20's and k24's.

[RHCP0801]

*six sigma racing

[ep3jd]

PWNT

:msmile:

[vicx52o]

woops i knewz thatz0rz :mconfused: