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hothatch
05-16-2011, 12:20 AM
Well i really need to change me ep3's oil.I got 5k on syn.My dad has a 95 nsx and tunes and reads alot about hondas and told me to use pennzoil ultra.He saw tests where it cleans your engine yadda yadda and how ferrari uses it in there us models.Should i grab a 5 quart of the stuff ya think?He uses in on his honda and raves all about it.

j0000stin
05-16-2011, 01:03 AM
get redline 5w30 and call it a day

Mechanic
05-16-2011, 02:45 AM
Well i really need to change me ep3's oil.I got 5k on syn.My dad has a 95 nsx and tunes and reads alot about hondas and told me to use pennzoil ultra.He saw tests where it cleans your engine yadda yadda and how ferrari uses it in there us models.Should i grab a 5 quart of the stuff ya think?He uses in on his honda and raves all about it.
Your dad is correct; Pennzoil Ultra is an excellent product. However, so is Pennzoil Platinium, and if you are planning to change motor oil every 5K, they are comparable. You can compare Pennzoil's Product Data Sheets (PDS) on their website. I'd go with 5W-30.

talonXracer
05-16-2011, 06:48 AM
I have used the Pennzoil ultra and platinum, decent oils and a good stand in for amsoil.

As long as you stay away from the 0wXX's and xw20 oils you should be fine.

RedSiBaron
05-16-2011, 10:22 AM
I concur with all above statements...I drive on redline 5w30 and its been great

bchaney
05-16-2011, 10:51 AM
I've been reading up on bobistheoilguy.com forums - lots of people with k-series engines have posted up their oil analysis and all of the PP ones look really good. I may end up using it after I'm done breaking in my build.

hothatch
05-16-2011, 11:37 AM
Ya and i heard from dad that they ran the penn ultra in some dirty engine then opened it up and the engine was sqeaky clean after one run.

TheKone
05-18-2011, 11:38 AM
I have used the Pennzoil ultra and platinum, decent oils and a good stand in for amsoil.

As long as you stay away from the 0wXX's and xw20 oils you should be fine.

I use amsoil sig series 0w-30. Do you recommend against this? It still has a kinematic viscosity of 10.5 at operating temp which is desirable for our motors. I'm just curious about your stand on 0w oils.

hothatch
05-28-2011, 07:18 PM
crap ,you guys are saying you should go 5w30?I put in PP 5w20 is that bad?

whatsvtec
05-28-2011, 07:30 PM
crap ,you guys are saying you should go 5w30?I put in PP 5w20 is that bad?

Yeah honda had a re-call on ep3's and other engines when they were running 5w20. Be easy on the engine till your next change and everything should be fine, switch to 5w30 then.

Your dad has an NSX? Pics or I'm gonna have to say :bs:
:mbiggrin: In for pics!

talonXracer
05-28-2011, 07:55 PM
I'm just curious about your stand on 0w oils.

Too thin for a Kseries DD in the lower 48, other than a few locations during the winter months.

RedSiBaron
05-28-2011, 11:04 PM
Too thin for a Kseries DD in the lower 48, other than a few locations during the winter months.

whats really interesting is on the way back from the bar with my father the other night, we got on the topic of my friend obtaining a redline sponsorship or become a dealer, for my friends motorsports company hes building (im his builder). partially because i love redline and would like him to get hooked on it over that royal purple junk, and also because i want a way to get it for cheap. ANYWAY, back to my anecdote, my father started telling me that back in the 70s, when he was building the formula 2 and 3 cars in europe, they were all hooked on redline because of its film strength, so they were all able to run WAY lighter oils than what was available. Then when he got bask to the states and started racing in formula ford, ralph loining built him his trick motor, my father said no one east of the rockies was running redline and wondered if he could run a lighter weight oil, and loining said he should definitely do it. also because of the oil, he should stop running his oil cooler because of the properties of the oil, and the film strength at higher temps, he wouldnt loose lubrication. PLUS he could drop 20lbs off the car, and on a 800lb formula car, 20lbs is a lot of weight...

anyway, doug, your mention of lower weight oils reminded me of this and i thought i would share the neat old racers story i picked up thursday.

whatsvtec
05-28-2011, 11:11 PM
whats really interesting is on the way back from the bar with my father the other night, we got on the topic of my friend obtaining a redline sponsorship or become a dealer, for my friends motorsports company hes building (im his builder). partially because i love redline and would like him to get hooked on it over that royal purple junk, and also because i want a way to get it for cheap. ANYWAY, back to my anecdote, my father started telling me that back in the 70s, when he was building the formula 2 and 3 cars in europe, they were all hooked on redline because of its film strength, so they were all able to run WAY lighter oils than what was available. Then when he got bask to the states and started racing in formula ford, ralph loining built him his trick motor, my father said no one east of the rockies was running redline and wondered if he could run a lighter weight oil, and loining said he should definitely do it. also because of the oil, he should stop running his oil cooler because of the properties of the oil, and the film strength at higher temps, he wouldnt loose lubrication. PLUS he could drop 20lbs off the car, and on a 800lb formula car, 20lbs is a lot of weight...

anyway, doug, your mention of lower weight oils reminded me of this and i thought i would share the neat old racers story i picked up thursday.

I've always loved redline products, especially in 2-stroke stuff growing up. I'll have to get some once I'm out of this amsoil. Twat about lucas oil? lol

AKEP
05-28-2011, 11:37 PM
I've always loved redline products, especially in 2-stroke stuff growing up. I'll have to get some once I'm out of this amsoil. Twat about lucas oil? lol


in my dd ef, i had put some 5w-30 whatever in it. had some minor leaks and whatnot. i put lucas in it and no more lost oil. and noises stopped. motor ran great. changed the oil and im back at square one.

nmysiismyn
05-28-2011, 11:39 PM
I've ran Honda's 5w20 for 7.5 years.

I've never had any problems and I don't baby my motor at all. :shrug:

Tortoise
05-29-2011, 12:15 AM
Im goin with redline 5w30. Ive heard mixed reviews with them but i guess ill find out for myself.

talonXracer
05-29-2011, 07:48 AM
whats really interesting is on the way back from the bar with my father the other night, we got on the topic of my friend obtaining a redline sponsorship or become a dealer, for my friends motorsports company hes building (im his builder). partially because i love redline and would like him to get hooked on it over that royal purple junk, and also because i want a way to get it for cheap. ANYWAY, back to my anecdote, my father started telling me that back in the 70s, when he was building the formula 2 and 3 cars in europe, they were all hooked on redline because of its film strength, so they were all able to run WAY lighter oils than what was available. Then when he got bask to the states and started racing in formula ford, ralph loining built him his trick motor, my father said no one east of the rockies was running redline and wondered if he could run a lighter weight oil, and loining said he should definitely do it. also because of the oil, he should stop running his oil cooler because of the properties of the oil, and the film strength at higher temps, he wouldnt loose lubrication. PLUS he could drop 20lbs off the car, and on a 800lb formula car, 20lbs is a lot of weight...

anyway, doug, your mention of lower weight oils reminded me of this and i thought i would share the neat old racers story i picked up thursday.


The environment and requirements of a Kseries DD vrs a Formula ford engine are worlds apart. The greatest issue is not during the actual continious operation, but during the stop and go, low rpm useage with engine starts and stops when the engine oil is at or above normal operating temps.

I have seen several DD engines come through the shop that seen 0w oil (and xw20) exclusively. And the thrust bearings were shot on EVERY engine with well under 75K miles on every one of them.

Using such light weight oil works very well with an engine designed with hydraulic tappets and use a auto trans, but as soon as you add the forces of the pressure plate and hot, low weight oil, the oil is wiped away from the thrust bearings and is not replaced until the clutch is released, and the solid roller rockers will cause all sorts of racket and accelerated wear.

The idle oil pressure seen at the #5 cam cap is approx 3-5 psi at operating temps with 5w-20 oil. Aftermarket and heavier OEM valve springs can and will overcome this oil pressure and allow the cam shafts to ride in the cam caps without a oil film and make the bore in the cam caps wear in a egg shape.

Noise = wear

CORRECT APPLICATION is the key!

RedSiBaron
05-30-2011, 11:27 AM
The environment and requirements of a Kseries DD vrs a Formula ford engine are worlds apart. The greatest issue is not during the actual continious operation, but during the stop and go, low rpm useage with engine starts and stops when the engine oil is at or above normal operating temps.

I have seen several DD engines come through the shop that seen 0w oil (and xw20) exclusively. And the thrust bearings were shot on EVERY engine with well under 75K miles on every one of them.

Using such light weight oil works very well with an engine designed with hydraulic tappets and use a auto trans, but as soon as you add the forces of the pressure plate and hot, low weight oil, the oil is wiped away from the thrust bearings and is not replaced until the clutch is released, and the solid roller rockers will cause all sorts of racket and accelerated wear.

The idle oil pressure seen at the #5 cam cap is approx 3-5 psi at operating temps with 5w-20 oil. Aftermarket and heavier OEM valve springs can and will overcome this oil pressure and allow the cam shafts to ride in the cam caps without a oil film and make the bore in the cam caps wear in a egg shape.

Noise = wear

CORRECT APPLICATION is the key!

Oh I understand there's a major difference between a race requirement and dd...I just thought id share the neat story...

TheKone
05-30-2011, 03:20 PM
Too thin for a Kseries DD in the lower 48, other than a few locations during the winter months.

But a 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30 and a straight 30 all have the same viscosity at operating temperature. I have used 0w-30, 5w-30 and 10w-30 and they all give me the exact same oil pressure at operating temp. The only difference is oil pressure at cold temps. I agree that a 20 weight is too thin for these engines but I don't understand why you say a 0w-30 is too thin.

talonXracer
05-30-2011, 04:30 PM
Yes it is the cold rating, far too thin in warm climates, as I said up there in the great white north and in certain areas in the lower 48, that during the winter a 0w is the ticket. Down south and/or in hot temperatures you will fry the thrust bearing in very short order,,,,,ps, I am a part owner in a machine shop and have been rebuilding engines for close to 35 years now and since that 0w and w20 swill has been released, the amount of thrust bearing damage causing engine failure has spiked significantly and in almost every case the owner used that pisswater swill.

Even the stock pressure plate provides enough pressure that the oil film on the thrust bearing is defeated and there is direct metal to metal contact during starting. Enough of those starts and the engine is toast.


Oh I understand there's a major difference between a race requirement and dd...I just thought id share the neat story...

It is a interesting story, and actually does prove a point, that true synthetics are better! Redline has been my oil of choice for high rpm competition engines for years, but on the low rpm torque monsters a conventional dino oil changed frequently is fine.

RedSiBaron
05-30-2011, 09:31 PM
speaking of dino oil in a low rpm driven (truck) motor...i had a whole case of valvoline max life 10w30 sitting around from when i dailyed my 86si...sorry, i mean drove my 86si, it was always a daily...anyhoo...i started the 240sx on that, and it has slowly but surely started softening up the valve seals. When i bought it, i was going through 2 quarts every 600miles...bad right!? i death-clouded smoke out the exhaust everywhere. then it turned into 2 quarts every 800miles with only smoke under full throttle before everything came up to operating temp. NOW its no longer smoking, and only burning about 1 quart every 800...good ol additive loaded dino oil

junevtec
10-05-2011, 05:10 PM
still waiting on pics of that nsx dude lol.

Calvinep3
02-23-2012, 08:10 PM
What about high milage a3's? 130,000k to be exact.

Red_liner740
02-23-2012, 09:20 PM
What about high milage a3's? 130,000k to be exact.

130K km is high? so what 230k km that my car has?

epcivicboy08
02-24-2012, 03:24 PM
Man, can't believe I've been using 5w20 all this time. :shakehead:

Not waiting for my regular interval to change oil.

02_epdriver
02-26-2012, 10:39 PM
What about high milage a3's? 130,000k to be exact.

130k for an a3 is nothing. Others have hit over 200k. I'm at 193k right now, eventually will switch over to a big block but my a3 still runs like a champ on the original clutch.

I've used mostly amsoil 5w30 and 5w40. Ive used royal purple, mobile one, castrol syn. Ive used lots of oils since I bought my ep back in 04 with only 43,500 on the odo. I just switched over to Eneos in which my local napa has for 6.5 bucks a QT from the 8.00 I was paying for the amsoil