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View Full Version : K20A2 Oil Pump Vs. S2K Oil Pump



Tnhatch03
05-31-2011, 05:14 PM
Anyone have any information about the pros/cons of these two oil pumps? I have found A3 vs. A2 vs. K24, but nothing on S2000.

I have a built K20A2 and the stock A2 oil pump. I want to make sure I do this right the first time and do not want to have to mess with anything once I am finished.

My goals are 500+ whp.

Here is some information on my head, if that helps:
PortFlow port & polish, SuperTech Stainless Steel nitride coated valves, dual valve springs, titanium retainers, competition 3 angle valve job, surfaced.

Would the A2 oil pump be enough to handle what I have?

USAF EP3
05-31-2011, 05:32 PM
From what I've read, the A2 will not cavitate until it's past 8600 RPM's. Unless you plan on revving your engine that high, there is no need to use the S2K pump. They both equally put out the same oil and oil pressure only that the S2K won't cavitate above 8600 RPM's.

Tnhatch03
05-31-2011, 07:16 PM
i am a noob...

can you explain cavitate for me?

so it all depends on where i want to rev?

Ba82Ep3
05-31-2011, 07:26 PM
It means the pump no longer pumps oil, it just churns the oil that is in it.

Think of a boat propeller. When you get a prop made for your engine, you tell them what max RPM you will use and they design the prop. If you take that same propeller and try to use it with an engine that revs 1kprm higher, it starts to churn the water instead of pushing the boat forward.

In an oil pump its a little different because the 'propeller' is enclosed in a chamber... but the idea is the same.

eccramer
05-31-2011, 07:29 PM
i am a noob...

can you explain cavitate for me?

so it all depends on where i want to rev?

Okay, so, cavitation: you know when you move your hand through water really fast and it creates a bubble behind your hand? Cavitation is when your hand moves so fast through the water that it can't fill the void that your hand left when it moved. In an oil pump cavitation is very bad as it severely impacts the ability for the pump to deliver oil, and can lead to oil starvation.

Here's the wikipedia article on cavitation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation).

Blah1219
05-31-2011, 07:57 PM
So instead of pushing the oil, it just cuts into it. So it don't move. I get it now! I need a s2k oil pump so I can take my k20a3 to 9k. JK JK! We need to mass sticky on just oil pumps, type of oil to use, and what you need to install the oil pump and how much it will cost. << I seen all that great info on ephatch.

talonXracer
06-01-2011, 06:12 AM
The A2 pump starts cavitating at just a tad over 8K rpm's, there is a very simple modification to the A2 oil pump housing that will up that cavitation point to above 9K rpms.

The S2k oil pump requires the use of the weaker(unless you also use a pan/block/trans brace) stamped steel pan

Paulieep3
06-01-2011, 07:16 AM
The A2 pump starts cavitating at just a tad over 8K rpm's, there is a very simple modification to the A2 oil pump housing that will up that cavitation point to above 9K rpms.

The S2k oil pump requires the use of the weaker(unless you also use a pan/block/trans brace) stamped steel pan

What is the simple modification that will allow the A2 pump to not cavitate until after 9k rpms? im getting ready to put the A2 pump on my k24 and if there is something i should do first to make it the best i can id like to only do the job once ya know.

heyvortek
06-01-2011, 07:39 AM
yea i wanna know too...wish i wouldve seen this earlier. also what about the erl oil pump?!

talonXracer
06-01-2011, 10:38 AM
The ERL pump is the S2k pump

Hytech has proven the mod on the A2 pump. The casting on the inside of the pump where the oil makes a 90 degree direction change to leave the oil pump and enter the block/girdle, needs to be radiused and smoothened out, a simple job with a Dremel, I would never consider installing a replacement pump without taking the 30 minutes to.

here is an A3(top) and a A2(bottom) oil pump housing, as you can see the A2's exit(right hand side in these pics) is abrupt, at an acute angle and not very smooth, this is easily rectified.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g96/talonxracer/IMG_0697.jpg

Paulieep3
06-02-2011, 06:27 AM
Do you have a pic of what it should look like when its done? im deffinately gonna do this, i just dont wanna do it too much and mess something up

talonXracer
06-02-2011, 09:19 AM
Nah I do not, sorry

But it isnt that hard to do. You just need to smooth the edges over, make that bend as obstruction free as possible. just looking at the casting first to see where and where not to hog out material is fairly self-explainatory, a little conservative common sense goes a long way.

POOPTOOTH
06-02-2011, 10:57 AM
So help me out with this, is it bad to rev an a2 without this mod to 8K+? I mean stock rev limit is 8100k right? Just seems like a flaw to have a part that can't keep up with its demand?

talonXracer
06-02-2011, 11:47 AM
The cavitation doesnt get real bad till above 86-8800, some pumps do ok, some do not. 9K with the simple mod is fine, at least as far as the pump goes. The A2 pump is perfectly adequate for most engines, it is only those who like to see the tach needle twist off it's shaft that have problems.

Lucid Moments
06-02-2011, 06:09 PM
Just for a point of comparison. I have a stock unmodified K20A2 oil pump on my car. I rev it up to 8500rpms. Since I track my car it spends more time at high RPMs than most and I have not had any oil related problems yet.

Tnhatch03
06-02-2011, 07:20 PM
i just want to make sure i do this right the first time.

i have a built bottom end and head. hope to see 500+whp. and i want to make sure i am not held back because i decided not to check into the oil pump.

Paulieep3
06-07-2011, 05:38 AM
I dont even think im gonna ever be revving passed 9k, but im gonna do this mod anyway just incase and because its free and seems easy enough. Once i get the oil pump ill take some pics on start to finish and post em up.