to people that have gone FAST in their ep...

[odyessy SI]

^^^^^^^^^^ i'm talkin well over 100mph even 115 so anyways i was goin pretty fast last night and i was well over 125 but then my ep started shakin!!!! i was pretty freaked out looked over to check my revs on the tach and they were pretty high well above 6000rpm i f i remember right. so i was wonderin if this was normal or if theres something wrong with my ep possibly my camber because a couple hours earlier a friend and i went to a empty parkin lot yet to be plowed and were doin donuts and drifts so any advice would be helpful! thanks

[efcee]

donuts in a new ep

id be afraid to do that with mine if i had one

but they are fun

[toe knee]

I don't think that is normal becuase i got mine up to 130 almost redline and the car is still smooth as ever. You might want to check that out.

Tony

[redronin22]

ive done 125 and feels fine. only thing is trying to hit a turn goin that fast. haha even a minor bend in the road brings an uneasiness on the stock suspension and tires

[toe knee]

Yeah I know what you are saying. The car feels like its about to flip over. I need a slamm soon.

[IceD out N CALI]

i've done 125 on stock wheels/tires and eibach sportline drop and it felt fine no shaking or anything:)

[dw735]

ive done 135 on xmas nite at 200 am, didnt hit govenor yet either, but i did hear they are off when they get that high.

[George Knighton]

Originally posted by odyessy SI
^^^^^^^^^^ i'm talkin well over 100mph even 115 so anyways i was goin pretty fast last night and i was well over 125 but then my ep started shakin!

Lawd have mercy!!

First off, don't drive that fast on public roads! Public roads are not designed for speeds like that. The curve you're coming up on might look nice and safe, but since the road was designed for 55-65 miles per hour, the curve might be off camber or double apex. Road designers don't care about that stuff, but you in your EP at 120 miles per hour will definitely care about it if you run up on it.

Please, please, please take it to the track. Don't do it on the street.

Second: I think you were driving too fast and couldn't really focus on your tach or the speedometer, and I think there's about a 75% chance that what you felt was your computer shutting down the spark because you hit the max revs.

If you've never experienced this, it will be scary.

The computer intervenes radically, and because of how the computer intervenes, the spark will cut in and out so quickly that it will give you a violent feeling of the motor shaking. If you have never experienced this, it could seem like something's really very wrong. :)

[ep pilot]

Well last month before I put the 18" wheels on, I ran a top speed run just to see what my car would run. out of two attempts I could only get my ep to about 132 or so. I don't think I had enough space and was at the handicap of a slight grade. I found the car to be sublime at that speed and silky smooth. What is alarming is that the same stretch of roadway where I made the first run on stock rubber, my ep will barely do 120 with the 18's I knew plus size wheels would be a bad investment, also at 120 I get a terrible amount of vibration from the front now that was not therewhen I had the stocks in place.

-Ryan

[natesi]

I'd take it to the dealership and let them know if vibrates at 120mph and then demand they fix it. And be sure to take them for a test drive so they know what you are talking about.

he he.

Nevermind our tires are not made for those speeds--they just put those ratings on to scare people.

[Type X]

confucious say. .

check top speeding rating on OEM tires and ye' shall find answer

[chunky]

I've experienced this high speed vibration. it happens right around 120ish mph for me.

it's harmonic vibration. Every car has a speed at which it will vibrate. It's based on the natural resonant freq of the chassis.

Road surfaces can accentuate this vibration.

Pay attention next time, and you'll experience the same sort of vibration predictably at the same speed. But once you accelerate past it, the vibration goes away.

wierd huh?

[chunky]

Originally posted by Type X
confucious say. .

check top speeding rating on OEM tires and ye' shall find answer

OEM tires are v-rated all season tires. that means they're good to 149mph in good conditions and will offer some traction in the snow to boot.

[Type X]

Originally posted by chunky


OEM tires are v-rated all season tires. that means they're good to 149mph in good conditions and will offer some traction in the snow to boot.


oem michelins are H rated = 130top speed
but i wouldn't push them over 115

[chunky]

Originally posted by Type X



oem michelins are H rated = 130top speed
but i wouldn't push them over 115

that's odd, the size for my stock tires is:

195/60VR/15

That means v-rated.

[Type X]

Originally posted by chunky


that's odd, the size for my stock tires is:

195/60VR/15

That means v-rated.

195/60R-15 Michelin

[Type X]

GETTIN stats from online

to cold to go look outside :)

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by dw735
ive done 135 on xmas nite at 200 am, didnt hit govenor yet either, but i did hear they are off when they get that high.

No, not a governor - you will hit the engine cut off around 135, there is no governor in your car.

I've gone 120 and it was still steady as a rock.

[chunky]

Originally posted by Type X


195/60R-15 Michelin

check tirerack.com

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Michelin&tireModel=MXV4&vehicleSearch=true&partnum=96VR5MXV4

michelin mxv4 in 195/60/VR15 is the stock tire.

not to be mistaken for the energy mxv4 plus, which are H rated.

[9092002SI]

Originally posted by George Knighton


Lawd have mercy!!

First off, don't drive that fast on public roads! Public roads are not designed for speeds like that. The curve you're coming up on might look nice and safe, but since the road was designed for 55-65 miles per hour, the curve might be off camber or double apex. Road designers don't care about that stuff, but you in your EP at 120 miles per hour will definitely care about it if you run up on it.

Please, please, please take it to the track. Don't do it on the street.

Second: I think you were driving too fast and couldn't really focus on your tach or the speedometer, and I think there's about a 75% chance that what you felt was your computer shutting down the spark because you hit the max revs.

If you've never experienced this, it will be scary.

The computer intervenes radically, and because of how the computer intervenes, the spark will cut in and out so quickly that it will give you a violent feeling of the motor shaking. If you have never experienced this, it could seem like something's really very wrong. :)

Man i take on ramps that say 15mph at 65mph so i don't know what your talking about....

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by George Knighton


Lawd have mercy!!

First off, don't drive that fast on public roads! Public roads are not designed for speeds like that.
...
Please, please, please take it to the track. Don't do it on the street.


The only place I feel safe trying something like 120 is out on the farm roads west of here...there is nothing but 2 farm houses for ever 5 mile stretch of rail-straight pavement. No cops, no curves. I highly recommend finding somewhere like this to do your speed test if you can't get to a track.

Couple things about speed testing on farm roads:

- watch out during spring and around the harvest - farm equipment can leave a dangerous, muddy, gravely mess on such rural roads.

- ALWAYS SCOUT THE ROAD FIRST. Run past where you plan to get it up to speed and look very closely for loose pieces of rock, metal, any debris at all on the pavement.

- Check the pressure in your tires - you need a few (3-5) extra psi than what is standard for the stock tires, in order to prevent excessive heat build up above 100mph.

[dannysi]

I have taken my car up to 135mph. The only thing i feel is the tires slipping every once in awhile. I don't think doin donuts with your car will alter the camber very much unless you hit a bump or some raised pavement.

[CRV440]

Originally posted by odyessy SI
^^^^^^^^^^ i'm talkin well over 100mph even 115 so anyways i was goin pretty fast last night and i was well over 125 but then my ep started shakin!!!! i was pretty freaked out looked over to check my revs on the tach and they were pretty high well above 6000rpm i f i remember right. so i was wonderin if this was normal or if theres something wrong with my ep possibly my camber because a couple hours earlier a friend and i went to a empty parkin lot yet to be plowed and were doin donuts and drifts so any advice would be helpful! thanks

Did you look to see if there was any snow build-up inside your wheels? This would throw them off balance and make your ep shake. Has anyone else thought of this???

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by CRV440


Did you look to see if there was any snow build-up inside your wheels? This would throw them off balance and make your ep shake. Has anyone else thought of this???

At that speed, the centripetal force at the outside of the wheel/tire is so great that I believe it would be impossible for any snow to stay inside the wheel.

[StrangeShadow]

couple hours earlier a friend and i went to a empty parkin lot yet to be plowed and were doin donuts and drifts so any advice would be helpful!

Dude! our cars are pretty high up there on stock suspension, doing donuts and drifts may really mess up your stock susp. or just cause you to end up on your back. Exercise some causion dude, remembering your susp. is stock.

[StrangeShadow]

my ep will barely do 120 with the 18's I knew plus size wheels would be a bad investment,

Anyone else run into a prb. like this when moving up their wheel size, is it normal?

[StrangeShadow]

Second: I think you were driving too fast and couldn't really focus on your tach or the speedometer, and I think there's about a 75% chance that what you felt was your computer shutting down the spark because you hit the max revs.

do you mean actual MAX REVS that the car can do, or RED LINE on the tac? (cause after mods rev/rpm range changes)

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by StrangeShadow


do you mean actual MAX REVS that the car can do, or RED LINE on the tac? (cause after mods rev/rpm range changes)

I agree that there is a difference between "max revs" the car can do and the red line on the tac. That is ONLY because the tac is not as precise as the ECU, which will manage the engine speed limiter. As time goes by, the tac could easily drift from its original calibration, reading a few hundred RPMs above or below the actual engine speed.


(cause after mods rev/rpm range changes)

No, no, and no. The only thing that will change your usable RPM range is a change to the ECU, by someone like Hondata.

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by StrangeShadow

"my ep will barely do 120 with the 18's I knew plus size wheels would be a bad investment,"

Anyone else run into a prb. like this when moving up their wheel size, is it normal?


His speedo is lying, because the new wheels are covering around 5-10% more ground per rotation than his old wheels. The speedo takes its reading from the axle. Thus, it is calibrated to the stock wheel/tire diameter. Increasing the diameter will make the speedo read lower than the true speed, always. I do agree the plus size wheels are a bad investment, though - they steal your saucy torque.

[StrangeShadow]

No, no, and no. The only thing that will change your usable RPM range is a change to the ECU, by someone like Hondata.

I'm a little confused...so can the tac be incorrect, meaning it says I'm pushing 6000 rpms when I may be pushing 5000?

Is the ECU compliant with the tac, killing the engine when the tac says I've red lined or hit max revs, or does the deff. of max revs differ with the tac and ECU?

[StrangeShadow]

His speedo is lying, because the new wheels are covering around 5-10% more ground per rotation than his old wheels. The speedo takes its reading from the axle. Thus, it is calibrated to the stock wheel/tire diameter. Increasing the diameter will make the speedo read lower than the true speed, always.

If I got 17" or 16" wheels would it then be key to get tires tht allow the diameer of the wheel/tire to remain the same as the stock wheel/tire diameter?

Would this allow the speedo to give a correct reading?

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by StrangeShadow


I'm a little confused...so can the tac be incorrect, meaning it says I'm pushing 6000 rpms when I may be pushing 5000?

Is the ECU compliant with the tac, killing the engine when the tac says I've red lined or hit max revs, or does the deff. of max revs differ with the tac and ECU?

I wouldn't say the tac might read 1000 RPM different than actual, but there could be a more subtle difference.

The tach is not related to the ECU at all. They both get their readings separately, I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong.) The ECU will always cut the engine out at the same speed, because it has an exact digital representation of engine speed at all times. This is what allows VTEC to vary different engine parameters based on the RPM, and thus get the best power and efficiency at all RPMs.

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by StrangeShadow


If I got 17" or 16" wheels would it then be key to get tires tht allow the diameer of the wheel/tire to remain the same as the stock wheel/tire diameter?

Would this allow the speedo to give a correct reading?

It sure would, some on this site said they have found such combinations. Do a search and I bet you'll find some.

[StrangeShadow]

The ECU will always cut the engine out at the same speed, because it has an exact digital representation of engine speed at all times.

Can that be bipassed? or changed by honda dealer?
would the engine be able to hadle more after different performance mods, making it necessary for the cut off number given to the ECU to be changd?

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by StrangeShadow


Can that be bipassed? or changed by honda dealer?
would the engine be able to hadle more after different performance mods, making it necessary for the cut off number given to the ECU to be changd?

Hondata has plans to offer a "flash" for the ECU in our cars, with an optional higher RPM limit for the cutoff (more about hondata here (http://www.hondata.com)). In the base model RSX, they raised the stock 6800rpm limit to 7300. I think we can expect something similar. This is not something the dealer will probably change. This can not be done without a lot of specialized equipment and R&D.

[StrangeShadow]

Hondata has plans to offer a "flash" for the ECU in our cars, with an optional higher RPM limit for the cutoff (more about hondata here). In the base model RSX, they raised the stock 6800rpm limit to 7300. I think we can expect something similar. This is not something the dealer will probably change. This can not be done without a lot of specialized equipment and R&D.

Thanks