View Full Version : PRB, RBB, and RBC questions, along with some k24 swap questions
I have done searches, and I 'think' I know most of what I need to know, but there are few other questions I would like to know before I go on with this.
I'm about half way in saving for a complete k24a2 swap. I am going to get:
-k24a2 long block
-Kpro
-Clutch
-CRV Mount
-Karcepts (if needed)
-(RBC?)
and I WAS going to get the RBC, but I know the losses down low are only made up for up top, but I want to leave the engine internals OEM, and I don't plan on rev'ing it sky high.. @7,000 RPM (is it safe to go higher? I know the rev limit on those engines in a TSX is 7,100) and a proper tune with i/h/e and looking for 230WHP. So, would this mean the RBC would be useless? I'm not worried about rev'ing it really high either because I know the power is applied a lot lower and lasts til redline.
Also, I have read that there is a coolant port issue with the head of the TSX engine so if I were to use the stock IM on the ep3 and karcepts adapter, what has to be done to fix that issue? Just re-route it back in to another coolant line? Or, if I want to use the IM that comes with the TSX engine, I have to get an 04-05 engine, correct? Because the later ones are drive by wire, or am I incorrect there?
ALSO, the RBC IM looks like it angles the intake towards the engine, would I have a problem with the fitment of that as well?
I already have a JRRH and a HKS hi-power exhaust and a no name really short ram intake.
So basically, what the pro's/con's of each IM, and which would you recommend for my goals and what I got (planned)?
EDIT:
Oh yea, FI isn't planned on anywhere in the near future.. Might also contribute to the RBC not being 'worth it'.. Transmission will be my focus after the swap is complete. Base RSX 5-speed with a TSX 6th gear and LSD, or a good deal on an a2 6-speed and a LSD..
talonXracer
07-21-2011, 01:36 PM
Even though the K24A2 does not rev as high, it still can utilize the RBC mani, this is due to the speed and volume of the airmass, ie 25% more volume at any given RPM and a much higher piston speed allows it to function. Sure there are some losses down low, but the K24A2 still provides more whp than a K20A2. The K24A2 can spin to 8K reliably.
I just went from a partial tune prb to rbc, fi on both. I just did a street tune for about 8 hours and I think my 30* I was adding upwards of 21% more fuel. But I pretty much added 20% for that entire degree. The others were not as bad but mostly around 10-15% all around was needed. Shows u how much more air it flows.
The coolant port u have to tap out and put a npt fitting in. I think I used a 1/4" npt to 90* barb. 3/8 barb is a little small but a good hose clamp will fix that. Or u can get expensive and A/N fiiting it to a barb but that won't fit with a prb/prc and probably not an rrb either. The tb sits too close, hits it. Doesn't work. With a modified rbc it would but that's pointless since you can use the coolant port on the rbc. I just answered a question on the hondata img that kind of explained everything like yesterday. You can use whatever tsx engine u want. U won't get a tb with it. You gotta use the ep or an aftermarket alternative. You only need the karcepts if u use an rbb or an rbc/rrc manifold. I would just shell the extra few bucks for the 1/8 npt fittings also, gives you better flexibility for boost/vac ports for accessories or whatever. You can read the 30 something pages of the emusa thread in my sig as I have some of that documented I think.
U can still use an manifold with a coolant port after you tapped it for a fitting. I did.
The rbb tb mount points up. Your intake should still fit. Same as rbc. It's angled a little back but your intake will still fit.
I'm on my iPhone so I don't know if I answered everything. I'll edit if I need to.
Oh and basically the rbb makes some good ass torque if your not going fi and staying with the 25 vtc cam. I went with the 50. The rbc is still good like Doug says. The piston speeds bennifits from the rbc.
And honestly if your going to do transmission work. Do it while everything is out. It's a giant pits to pull the trans. It's like pullin the motor all over again at theeast. I have the tsx 6 with the ep final and even without boost it will pull it pretty hard without a hitch. It could def handle long gearing.
Hope this answered everything.
Im so sorry. Edit button on iPhone is being weird. U also have to relocate the brake booster fittin on the manifold to somewhere other than the highest point on the manifold. Underneith. Closer to tHe head. Whether you drill a hole the exact same size as tge original and stick the tube in it, or tap it out for a/n or npt is up to you. Or u can cut the hood. But that's janky. You will have to modify the rad support by slicing the ends up [see my k24-t link in my sig for pics] or slicing up the middle to the silohette of te manifold. Or bend it. Your choice. K.
Alright so the RBC is the way to go? I see them on clubrsx with the karcepts and gaskets for 280. Also, this is going to be a DD, but I want it with some more ass than the a3.. and like I said, FI is WAY down the road if at all. 230whp @ 7-8k RPM with i/h/e and a good tune is pretty reasonable then?
Also, about the transmission.. It would be quite some time before I saved up money for another trans and LSD and what-not.. So i'll tackle that in the future.
talonXracer
07-21-2011, 02:48 PM
Seeing you are going with a K24A2 the RBC is a direct bolton affair. As mentioned above the brake booster may need to be moved, or the hood skeleton modified, or use a close coupled AN fitting.
230whp could be possible(depending on the year of K24A2, 06+ being the cats meow) depending on the dyno, on Churchs dyno you will hit 230 for sure with a beat engine, LOL. Probably you will be around 225 or so with a early K24A2.
usedep3
07-21-2011, 02:54 PM
if youre gonna use the prb on the k24a2, there is an adapter plate made by hasport: http://hasport.com/store/index.php/accessories/intake/kinad.html
http://hasport.com/store/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/265x265/5e06319eda06f020e43594a9c230972d/k/i/kinad.jpg
Alright, that's what I'll do then. I appreciate the answers from everyone.
Yeah that plate costs a shit ton more than a whole tap and die set and fitting and ca tax combined. And The plate is prone to leaking. Unless u wanna urethane it up. Ghetto fab ftl. Mine is a dd ish build. Just wanted more power and boost.
Just looked at your pictures and, DAMN.. That is a tiiiiight fit right there.. Damn I wish it just fit in there a bite better. I get so envious of people who have them swapped in the older honda's and the massive amounts of room that they have.
usedep3
07-21-2011, 04:47 PM
Yeah that plate costs a shit ton more than a whole tap and die set and fitting and ca tax combined. And The plate is prone to leaking. Unless u wanna urethane it up. Ghetto fab ftl. Mine is a dd ish build. Just wanted more power and boost.
true the adapter is not cheap, but i just wanted him to be aware of the option.
Just looked at your pictures and, DAMN.. That is a tiiiiight fit right there.. Damn I wish it just fit in there a bite better. I get so envious of people who have them swapped in the older honda's and the massive amounts of room that they have.
you don't even understand what space is. the manifold is easy, the wastegate. fuck it.
you don't even understand what space is. the manifold is easy, the wastegate. fuck it.
lol well I guess i'm lucky that i'm not interested in FI.. yet..
RHCP0801
07-22-2011, 06:21 AM
i have the rbc on my k24a2, before i got it tuned with the tsx rbb mani and i made 201hp, after the rbc was installed i ended up with 228hp and 195tq. Redline is set to 8200rpm and its definitely the best mod i ever did to the engine. Its a very tight fit but i was able to do it without modding the rad support, its easier to take the rad support off than put the rbc on. Karcepts adapter is needed
i have the rbc on my k24a2, before i got it tuned with the tsx rbb mani and i made 201hp, after the rbc was installed i ended up with 228hp and 195tq. Redline is set to 8200rpm and its definitely the best mod i ever did to the engine. Its a very tight fit but i was able to do it without modding the rad support, its easier to take the rad support off than put the rbc on. Karcepts adapter is needed
Yea I think that's just what I am going to do. I was just worried about it 'not being worth it' kind of a thing for what I want to do and am trying to achieve. But, like I said, on clubrsx.com they have them for sale with hoses, and the karcepts adapter, and gaskets and such. Seems like that'd be the best thing to grab.
i have the rbc on my k24a2, before i got it tuned with the tsx rbb mani and i made 201hp, after the rbc was installed i ended up with 228hp and 195tq. Redline is set to 8200rpm and its definitely the best mod i ever did to the engine. Its a very tight fit but i was able to do it without modding the rad support, its easier to take the rad support off than put the rbc on. Karcepts adapter is needed
what mounts are u using? i want them.
Yea I think that's just what I am going to do. I was just worried about it 'not being worth it' kind of a thing for what I want to do and am trying to achieve. But, like I said, on clubrsx.com they have them for sale with hoses, and the karcepts adapter, and gaskets and such. Seems like that'd be the best thing to grab.
keep an eye on ebay, and check your junkyards. i got mine for 170 shipped with injectors and stuff.
Well karcepts is 60 dollars and gaskets and what not and hoses PLUS the RBC on top, I'm think the convenience of just getting it for 280 and from there would be worth it but I greatly appreciate and value your opinions.
Rookie question, you kinda confused me with the injectors comment.. I am going to use the TSX injectors, right?
RHCP0801
07-22-2011, 04:49 PM
yea i just used tsx injectors, rdx injectors can be used too but you dont have too.
Im using oem mounts
i got my rbc for $160
just for clarification, if its not from a base rsx or ep3 you sohuld have 310's, unless you get rdx. for what reason people get rdx injectors i don't know.
Yea the RDX injectors are pointless from what I read.. Just people thinking that they do more than than really do I guess. Now I just gotta find an engine for the right price with the right things. It's not uncommon to get these for 1,200 now right?
if you wait for a deal you can. the lower milage ones can go for up to $2300. i got mine for $1700 @ 55k and a 60 day warrantee. $1600 without it. they wouldn't do a compression test so i just apid the $1700 since i couldn't drop it in right away.
i do hear of the midwest dismantlers short selling import parts. so you could probably get a great deal on one.
There's a vendor on eBay that sells them for 1,499.. Looks legit but I don't know if it has been compression tested.. I suppose when I get closer to the time of purchase I can message him.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=k24a2&_sacat=0&_odkw=k24a2+longblock&_osacat=0&_trksid=p3286.c0.m270.l1313
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