NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-16-2011, 08:44 PM
So for those of you with a squeaky clutch or a loose clutch or a clutch that grabs "too high" or too low.
im gonna re post this set of procedures from I-vtec.net and put some pictures to go with it...hopefully you can decipher the pictures because i took them with my cameraphone
this literally took me 10minutes to do... + 15 minutes of figuring out if i did it correctly... = about half an hr
which then just led me to try and drive my car.
My clutch use to squeak alot and feel like there was a bit of play in it before it actually engaged.
now the play has been reduced alot and the squeak sound is almost gone. (it is still present but barely like 15%/100%, but im sure i can just adjust the pushrod more or apply a TINY bit of grease.)
and to add to this.. my clutch for some reason feels alot smoother...could just be in my head tho
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This is an oldie but a goodie.
This has helped some people solve grinding issues on K-Series transmissions, as well as squeeky clutch pedal issues. While this was written for the EP3, it should be the same for any K-Series car, as well as just about any car that uses a hydraulic clutch.
Also, this is pretty much a MUST if you install an aftermarket clutch+pressureplate, in order to get proper engagement/disengagement. That being said, on to the DIY:
Tools needed:
- 12mm wrench
- Small pair of vice grips
- A shop towel, rag, or some good grippy rubber gloves, to get a better grip on the pushrod when turning it
- A drop light/flashlight (unless you have super-uber-night-vision )
1) Slide your driver's seat all the way back, you'll need as much room as possible.
2) Remove the fuse panel cover.
3) Remove the lower panel above the pedals. There is a lock on it similar to the one on the fuse panel cover. Once it is undone, simply pull down to remove the panel.
4) Remove the plastic clip for the kick panel by unscrewing it. This will provide you with a bit more room to work.
For steps 5 through 10, Ignore the red goop everywhere, this is Mobil 1 Synthetic grease from a previous attempt at trying to stop the squeeking (and as we all know, it never works).
5) Take note of the angle that the pushrod enters the clutch master cylinder (CMC) on your car. It is most likely a downward angle. This means that there is slack between the pushrod and the piston in the CMC.
6) Begin by loosening the locknut with the 12mm wrench. You only need to break it loose by one or two threads.
7) Thread the pushrod out of the pushrod mounting bracket, by turning it clockwise. This will push it further into the CMC. This is where the rag/shop towel, or the grippy rubber gloves come in handy. The pushrod is a rather smooth surface and is hard to get a grip on, especially if there's grease all over it (god damn synthetic grease that never wears out ). As you're turning the pushrod, it will come to a point where it begins to get pretty hard to turn. At that point, you'll want to stop, and try pushing the clutch pedal down with your hand. There should be a tiny bit of free play, and then it should begin to get stiff. If there's no free play, then you've turned the pushrod into the CMC too much, and have put a preload on the piston in the CMC. If this is the case, back the pushrod out a bit until you get freeplay.
8) Once you have the pushrod adjusted and have made sure there is no preload on the CMC piston, take a look at the angle of the pushrod to the CMC. It should be pretty much 90 degrees. Much better then before, as there's now no slack.
9) Take your vicegrips, and clamp them on to the pushrod right where it enters the CMC.
10) Tighten the locknut using the 12mm wrench, while holding onto the vicegrips so that the pushrod does not back out of the CMC. Make sure the locknut is good and tight.
11) Thread the plastic clip from back onto it's stud. If it's becomming too much of a pain in the ass sitting there threading it on, you can usually just push it on.
12) Replace the lower cover, followed by the fuse panel cover.
13) Go for a test drive and enjoy your (hopefully) much better feeling clutch
im gonna re post this set of procedures from I-vtec.net and put some pictures to go with it...hopefully you can decipher the pictures because i took them with my cameraphone
this literally took me 10minutes to do... + 15 minutes of figuring out if i did it correctly... = about half an hr
which then just led me to try and drive my car.
My clutch use to squeak alot and feel like there was a bit of play in it before it actually engaged.
now the play has been reduced alot and the squeak sound is almost gone. (it is still present but barely like 15%/100%, but im sure i can just adjust the pushrod more or apply a TINY bit of grease.)
and to add to this.. my clutch for some reason feels alot smoother...could just be in my head tho
:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::
This is an oldie but a goodie.
This has helped some people solve grinding issues on K-Series transmissions, as well as squeeky clutch pedal issues. While this was written for the EP3, it should be the same for any K-Series car, as well as just about any car that uses a hydraulic clutch.
Also, this is pretty much a MUST if you install an aftermarket clutch+pressureplate, in order to get proper engagement/disengagement. That being said, on to the DIY:
Tools needed:
- 12mm wrench
- Small pair of vice grips
- A shop towel, rag, or some good grippy rubber gloves, to get a better grip on the pushrod when turning it
- A drop light/flashlight (unless you have super-uber-night-vision )
1) Slide your driver's seat all the way back, you'll need as much room as possible.
2) Remove the fuse panel cover.
3) Remove the lower panel above the pedals. There is a lock on it similar to the one on the fuse panel cover. Once it is undone, simply pull down to remove the panel.
4) Remove the plastic clip for the kick panel by unscrewing it. This will provide you with a bit more room to work.
For steps 5 through 10, Ignore the red goop everywhere, this is Mobil 1 Synthetic grease from a previous attempt at trying to stop the squeeking (and as we all know, it never works).
5) Take note of the angle that the pushrod enters the clutch master cylinder (CMC) on your car. It is most likely a downward angle. This means that there is slack between the pushrod and the piston in the CMC.
6) Begin by loosening the locknut with the 12mm wrench. You only need to break it loose by one or two threads.
7) Thread the pushrod out of the pushrod mounting bracket, by turning it clockwise. This will push it further into the CMC. This is where the rag/shop towel, or the grippy rubber gloves come in handy. The pushrod is a rather smooth surface and is hard to get a grip on, especially if there's grease all over it (god damn synthetic grease that never wears out ). As you're turning the pushrod, it will come to a point where it begins to get pretty hard to turn. At that point, you'll want to stop, and try pushing the clutch pedal down with your hand. There should be a tiny bit of free play, and then it should begin to get stiff. If there's no free play, then you've turned the pushrod into the CMC too much, and have put a preload on the piston in the CMC. If this is the case, back the pushrod out a bit until you get freeplay.
8) Once you have the pushrod adjusted and have made sure there is no preload on the CMC piston, take a look at the angle of the pushrod to the CMC. It should be pretty much 90 degrees. Much better then before, as there's now no slack.
9) Take your vicegrips, and clamp them on to the pushrod right where it enters the CMC.
10) Tighten the locknut using the 12mm wrench, while holding onto the vicegrips so that the pushrod does not back out of the CMC. Make sure the locknut is good and tight.
11) Thread the plastic clip from back onto it's stud. If it's becomming too much of a pain in the ass sitting there threading it on, you can usually just push it on.
12) Replace the lower cover, followed by the fuse panel cover.
13) Go for a test drive and enjoy your (hopefully) much better feeling clutch