OEM Lock/Remote

[Postman158]

I'm having problems with my remote (that goes on my keychain) to unlock/lock my car. It flat out doesn't work. I've tried replacing the battery with the small 2025 battery, and still nothing. When i push lock/unlock on the remote, I see the tiny red light come on as if its trying, but my car stays locked. Anyone know if this could be a receiver problem with something in my car? How can I check? Or... do i just need to buy a new overpriced OEM remote? =/ haha

Thanks

[RHCP0801]

reprogram it

1)Get in Car
2)Close the Doors
3) Unlock Doors
4) Turn ignition key to "ON" position (II)
5) Press the "LOCK" button on the remote
6) Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position (0)
7) Turn ignition key to "ON" position (II)
8)Press the "LOCK" button on the remote
9) Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position (0)
10) Turn ignition key to "ON" position (II)
12) Press the "LOCK" button on the remote
13) Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position (0)
14) Turn ignition key to "ON" position (II)
15)Press the "LOCK" button on the remote - doors should cycle to indicate successful programming press unlock to confirm. If you only have one remote, turn ignition to off or don't touch anything. If you have 2+ remotes, leave key ON (II) and Hit the Lock then Unlock to cycle the doors on additional remotes. I think the car can remember up to 3.

*Steps 4-15 must be performed within 5 seconds of each other. Step 15 can be repeated within 10 seconds of step 14.

[Postman158]

Am I being Punk'd? haha just kidding. I guess I'll give that a shot when I get to my car later.

[RHCP0801]

lol haha, they also have remotes on ebay for a lot cheaper than the dealer. Just match the fcc id on the back of your remote to one on ebay

[Postman158]

Thanks, I appreciate it. I'll give it all a shot!

[Spidey]

The door lock actuator could also be toast.

[nmysiismyn]

The door lock actuator could also be toast.

Not really...
First off; all 3 actuators would have to be bad. Secondly; even if all 3 actuators were bad and the remote's was good, the beep, click and engaging sounds would still be present...

[NEO_FOLLOWER2]

Not really...
First off; all 3 actuators would have to be bad. Secondly; even if all 3 actuators were bad and the remote's was good, the beep, click and engaging sounds would still be present...

really all 3?

none of my door opens with my remote anymore UNLESS:::
if i unlock the drivers door then the remote unlocks and locks the other door and the hatch.

same goes for the inside lock switch
if the drivers door is unlocked the switch works for the other door and hatch


if the drivers door is locked.
i can use the remote and button to lock the other door and hatch but not unlock it again, unless i manually unlock the drivers door

does that mean my drivers door actuator is out? or do i need all 3?

[nmysiismyn]

really all 3?

none of my door opens with my remote anymore UNLESS:::
if i unlock the drivers door then the remote unlocks and locks the other door and the hatch.

same goes for the inside lock switch
if the drivers door is unlocked the switch works for the other door and hatch


if the drivers door is locked.
i can use the remote and button to lock the other door and hatch but not unlock it again, unless i manually unlock the drivers door

does that mean my drivers door actuator is out? or do i need all 3?

Whoa... I'm a bit confused.
The remote should only unlock the drivers door when pressing the remotes unlock button for the first time and pressing it a second time should unlock the passenger's door and hatch, together.
As for the switch on the driver's door panel; that should lock and unlock all 3, all the time.
Although the door panel switch unlocks and unlocks the doors/hatch, it doesn't disengage the alarm though- that way someone can't just reach in with a hanger or whatever...

When actuators go out they tend to slowly/randomly stop working. My passenger one would work once or twice with the car off and work just fine with the car running- 'til it eventually gave out completely...

I don't know how consistent your symptom is, but I'm willing to bet that it's just coincidence that the driver's door being locked/unlocked manually is actually affecting how the passenger/hatch actuators work.. :shrug:
Your actuators are probably on their way out because, like I said, the door panel switch should always lock/unlock everything.

[NEO_FOLLOWER2]

basically it seems like the drivers door lock is the master lock.

my drivers door lock slowly stopped working. to put simply

if the drivers door is in the locked position
i can:
1. use the switch to lock the other door/hatch
2. use the remote to lock the door/hatch
3. i cannot use the remote(press twice) to unlock anything

if the drivers door is in the unlocked position
i can:
1.use the switch to lock the door/hatch
2.use the remote to unlock the door/hatch

the drivers door actuator completely doesnt work now. but it seems as if the other ones do...?
i'd hate to have order these actuators seperately because those oem site charge a lot for shipping.

[nmysiismyn]

Yeah.. I feel ya on the shipping...



Driver's Side Actuator
____________________
72155-S5A-A01:
$34.06
Shipping Charge:
$7.94
Handling Charge:
$4.95
Total:
$46.95

Driver's Side Actuator and Passenger's Side Actuator
_____________________________________________
72155-S5A-A01:
$34.06
72115-S5A-003:
$29.47
Subtotal:
$63.53
Shipping:
$11.04
Handling:
$4.95
Total:
$79.52

Driver's Side Switch
__________________
35380-S5A-A01ZF:
$34.06
Shipping:
$7.94
Handling:
$4.95
Total:
$28.97

Driver's Side Actuator, Passenger's Side Actuator and Driver's Side Switch
_____________________________________________
72155-S5A-A01:
$34.06
72115-S5A-003:
$29.47
35380-S5A-A01ZF:
$34.06
Subtotal:
$79.61
Shipping:
$11.04
Handling:
$4.95
Total:
$95.60

The shipping's the same if you buy all 3...
I doubt you need a switch, but it's worth looking into.
You might want to find a local EP owner and use his parts to diagnose your issue.


...the switch on the driver's door panel; that should lock and unlock all 3, all the time...
IDK bro.. The driver's side being locked or unlocked REALLY shouldn't be affecting the continuity of the whole system. :shrug:
I wish I could help, but I'd have to take it all apart and see it for myself... It may be something lame- like a shorted wire.

Have you tried taking the panels off to inspect everything?
How long has it been like this?
Are you even able to set your alarm?

[mikeys_ep3]

basically it seems like the drivers door lock is the master lock.

my drivers door lock slowly stopped working. to put simply

if the drivers door is in the locked position
i can:
1. use the switch to lock the other door/hatch
2. use the remote to lock the door/hatch
3. i cannot use the remote(press twice) to unlock anything

if the drivers door is in the unlocked position
i can:
1.use the switch to lock the door/hatch
2.use the remote to unlock the door/hatch

the drivers door actuator completely doesnt work now. but it seems as if the other ones do...?
i'd hate to have order these actuators seperately because those oem site charge a lot for shipping.

mine used to do the same exact thing..it means your driver side actuator needs to be replaced...but what i did in the meantime since i didnt have the funds to replace it yet i just took the driver side actuator out completly n the switch will work always

only downside is you have to manually work the driverside lock

[NEO_FOLLOWER2]

so from what it sounds like the drivers side actuator is like a "master lock"
if you understand what im trying to say...

and earlier what i was saying about shipping is....you can save a few bucks if you buy everything on one order...you'll spend an extra 3-10 dollars if you end up needing another actuator or switch or whatnot on a second order

these days every dollar counts...especially if you're a college student like myself

[nmysiismyn]

...these days every dollar counts...

:amen: