Alignment help!!!!!

[civictype_r04]

Alright so I had my car aligned with the new wheels and tires. Enkei RPF1 17x8.5 215/40R17. Well I took it to a local shop that does good alignment on lowered cars and had them set me up. I get the car back the next day. Now when I turn the wheel to the left and return straight the car pulls left and when I turn right and return straight the car pulls right. I just got a bike so I've been ridding it a lot. Well called the shop up to set up an inspection with them two weeks ago. I drop the car off and tell them my problem and they said if they have time they will look at it. I pick my car up after work the tech tells me the toe was out on the drivers side from .04 and moved to .24 neg toe. So I take the car and leave. Again its been so nice out I've been rideing my bike a lot. Last Friday I call the shop up cause its doing the samething. The guy puts me on hold for 10 mins to talk to the tech. Comes back on the phone and tells me its nothing they did and my EPS is bad. I have an 2004 with 60,000. What should I do guys.

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[civictype_r04]

Anyone??

[RHCP0801]

go somewhere else

[Zzyzx]

Time to check the condition of wear items. Lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends ect ect ect... A "floating" alignment usually means something is loose or worn out.

[Rasy]

Definitely check your bushings. There are two bushings per side, one for the tie-rod, and one for the knuckle-lower control arm. I had recently replaced mine and packed it full of grease.

They were torn and almost dry - which leads to a lot less steering control, and possible loss of steering! Also, make sure the tie-rods themselves don't wobble at all, if so they are damaged and need to be replaced.

I haven't heard of issues with our cars regarding EPS too much, so it's quite unusual from my perspective that it may pose a problem for you at 60k. Keep us updated.

[Nooget]

I have the exact same issue. The previous owner lowered the car on H&R springs on stock struts, and the car would pull left after left turns & vice-versa. I had my suspension returned to oem specs this weekend (since the lowered springs trashed the stock struts). I got the car aligned this morning, and it still pulls, but significantly less than before. From what I've read, I think lowering the car changes the geometry of the tie rod ends, which may cause the car to pull like it is. I'm hoping as my suspension settles over the next week or so, the pull goes away. I'll let you know what happens. Good luck figuring out your issue. I'm willing to bet that it's not your EPS, though -- seems unlikely for an '04 with 60,000.

[PatrickJamesYu]

I think your car is totaled.

jk, bump.

[civictype_r04]

Definitely check your bushings. There are two bushings per side, one for the tie-rod, and one for the knuckle-lower control arm. I had recently replaced mine and packed it full of grease.

They were torn and almost dry - which leads to a lot less steering control, and possible loss of steering! Also, make sure the tie-rods themselves don't wobble at all, if so they are damaged and need to be replaced.

I haven't heard of issues with our cars regarding EPS too much, so it's quite unusual from my perspective that it may pose a problem for you at 60k. Keep us updated.

Next is to replace the ball joints. I will defiantly keep you guys updated.

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[blueandgoldep3]

go somewhere else for the alignment if they fix it bring the receipt to the original shop and have them pay for it lol

[Tougeep3]

Find a shop that's competent enough to be able to check your front end BEFORE they align it.

[BlownSi05]

Find a shop that's competent enough to be able to check your front end BEFORE they align it.

^^This.

I know some people disagree with me on this, but personally I like having my alignment done on an old school alignment rack by hand rather than relying on those laser alignment machines. Those machines are only as good as the tech operating it. Anyone who still uses and old rack and does it old school is more likely to pay more attention to the overall picture based on my past experiences.

[Andrew]

Alright so I had my car aligned with the new wheels and tires. Enkei RPF1 17x8.5 215/40R17. Well I took it to a local shop that does good alignment on lowered cars and had them set me up. I get the car back the next day. Now when I turn the wheel to the left and return straight the car pulls left and when I turn right and return straight the car pulls right. I just got a bike so I've been ridding it a lot. Well called the shop up to set up an inspection with them two weeks ago. I drop the car off and tell them my problem and they said if they have time they will look at it. I pick my car up after work the tech tells me the toe was out on the drivers side from .04 and moved to .24 neg toe. So I take the car and leave. Again its been so nice out I've been rideing my bike a lot. Last Friday I call the shop up cause its doing the samething. The guy puts me on hold for 10 mins to talk to the tech. Comes back on the phone and tells me its nothing they did and my EPS is bad. I have an 2004 with 60,000. What should I do guys.

Sent from my HTC THUNDERBOLT 4G LTE using tapatalk

how low is your car? if it's past 2.25 inches imo try roll center adjusters and also look more into detail in zzxxxyyzzz suggestion


I have the exact same issue. The previous owner lowered the car on H&R springs on stock struts, and the car would pull left after left turns & vice-versa. I had my suspension returned to oem specs this weekend (since the lowered springs trashed the stock struts). I got the car aligned this morning, and it still pulls, but significantly less than before. From what I've read, I think lowering the car changes the geometry of the tie rod ends, which may cause the car to pull like it is. I'm hoping as my suspension settles over the next week or so, the pull goes away. I'll let you know what happens. Good luck figuring out your issue. I'm willing to bet that it's not your EPS, though -- seems unlikely for an '04 with 60,000.

check what zzxxyyzzz suggested with worn out bushings and etc. i also recommend roll center adjusters for a lowered vehicle alignment.


^^This.

I know some people disagree with me on this, but personally I like having my alignment done on an old school alignment rack by hand rather than relying on those laser alignment machines. Those machines are only as good as the tech operating it. Anyone who still uses and old rack and does it old school is more likely to pay more attention to the overall picture based on my past experiences.

this is absolutely true. i learned through trial and error with weak ass firestone (sorry to knock on them if anyone works there). they do the shittiest of work and can never tell me why they could get the toe set to 0. it was always off and always pulled to the right. so i said screw it and took it to a real tuner shop where they still do the string method. the guy fixed my camber and toe issues and have been loving it on my set of bc racing coilovers

[PREJDMLUDE]

They should have given you a print out of before and after the alignment. Did any of these symptoms occur before ?

[Drew1d]

Same thing happened to me when the crash bolts wouldn't hold. Get a crayon, mark the position of the strut relative to the knuckle. Drive till it's pulling(different direction from where you marked it) and see if the struts moved.

If that's the case, check that the right bolts were used, and the struts are right for the car.

Changing the camber, will change the toe.

[nletourneau1]

Make sure your strut mount bearings are not seizing. This can cause a pull in the direction the tire was last turned as they do not return freely. I have seen this problem with many Macpherson strut systems that come into my shop for alignments. As was mentioned, if you have dropped the car more than 2" you may have issues with the geometry of the tie rods and control arms.

Neil