What battery?

[Reaper27]

ok so I need to replace my battery cuse mine is old and not holding up well with my system and all. I'm looking at the Optima, a Braille, or the autozone duralast. Of the three the duralast has the highest cold cranking amps, and reg cranking amps, the optima is in the middle of all, and the braille has the most pulse cranking amps and weighs considerably less than the other two. My question is which one would be the best to get and what are you guys running in your cars. I'm kinda leaning toward the Braille but I'm not sure when I think about the cold cranking amps and all since winter time is coming up.

[Ba82Ep3]

Seriously just goto Walmart and buy the $75 battery. Auto Zone and any other auto parts store has batteries overpriced as hell... and their so called warranties have so many loopholes its rediculous. Optima batteries are overrated. It had a higher rate of return in the warranty period of any other battery we sold...

CCA isnt that big of a deal for you. Its not like you live in Ohio, and see serious winters. Anything with 225cca and above will start the k20a3 just fine.

[heyvortek]

how deep are your pockets?!? jk. a cheap battery will do. just make sure u get the same spec so it will fit and not be too tall or long

[T_Virus]

autozone duralast gold ftw...I had a Braille battery and the only thing I can say about it is that everything sucks besides the weight. My braille battery lasted me 1 year and half almost 2 years and then it died. It just would still take the charge but the charge wouldn't last long. My Braille batter kept dying after 2 weeks. I don't even have music systems in my car. Don't get a Braille Battery. If you are getting one, atleast get a Daika battery for cheaper price as I heard Braille batteries are rebadged Daika batteries.

[gtolio]

Walmart x2. I've had two of them in my ep alone and have them in two of my other cars. They last 5 years or so. Spend your money on something else for the car.

[Reaper27]

Seriously just goto Walmart and buy the $75 battery. Auto Zone and any other auto parts store has batteries overpriced as hell... and their so called warranties have so many loopholes its rediculous. Optima batteries are overrated. It had a higher rate of return in the warranty period of any other battery we sold...

CCA isnt that big of a deal for you. Its not like you live in Ohio, and see serious winters. Anything with 225cca and above will start the k20a3 just fine.

I'm kinda confused, if I did an engine swap and had say a k20a1 or a k24a2 would I need a stronger battery?


autozone duralast gold ftw...I had a Braille battery and the only thing I can say about it is that everything sucks besides the weight. My braille battery lasted me 1 year and half almost 2 years and then it died. It just would still take the charge but the charge wouldn't last long. My Braille batter kept dying after 2 weeks. I don't even have music systems in my car. Don't get a Braille Battery. If you are getting one, atleast get a Daika battery for cheaper price as I heard Braille batteries are rebadged Daika batteries.

I'm really surprised to hear this since I've heard a lot of good review about braille, but I'm glad I asked before I bought it ha.

Also I'm not to adept with batteries and all so what is the difference between pulse cranking amps and cranking amps?

[Silvercard]

autozone duralast gold ftw...I had a Braille battery and the only thing I can say about it is that everything sucks besides the weight. My braille battery lasted me 1 year and half almost 2 years and then it died. It just would still take the charge but the charge wouldn't last long. My Braille batter kept dying after 2 weeks. I don't even have music systems in my car. Don't get a Braille Battery. If you are getting one, atleast get a Daika battery for cheaper price as I heard Braille batteries are rebadged Daika batteries.
:yeahthat:
Duralast Gold! If I have any problems they replaced it like nothing which happened one time when I forgot to disconnect the battery but the ecu i did when I was welding the exhausting mounting point. This caused the battery to kill it self. Told auto zone that it doesn't hold a charge and was replaced no questions asked. Other than that this brand hasn't given me problems on other vehicles. Optima over rated! Could handle the az for not even 2 months and got it replaced and same problem, lost holding charge.

[Mighty_Mouse_Ep]

I am running a costco battery i dont know the cca or anything but my system is 800rms watts and yeah battery holds up fine, before the costco battery i had a duralast non gold and that one died on me after about 1.5 years. So far the costco battery i have is holding up fine.

[introvert]

+1 vote for duralast gold. It ran fine for a couple of years, HIDs, fogs and 1200W RMS on 4AWG with no dimming.

[Ba82Ep3]

Nope, no need. Unless you have mechanical issues in the dead of winter below freezing... 230cca will crank a k24 just as well. You can get an AGM snowmobile battery and use it to start your engine for that matter... i use one with cables all the time to jump stuff with. Now, if you were trying to turn over a high compression v8, or run a shitload of accessories with the ignition off... thats a different story.

They tell you "this is the battery that fits your car", or "you might as well get the best while youre here", because they are trying to meet sales quotas. At one point we even got $2 bonus per battery sold as incentive. I sent people tight on $ to Walmart all the time... they can keep that crappy $2 bonus. Its a gimmick. Just check out the 51R at Walmart. Its a drop in with a warranty... and its really all you need.

[Ba82Ep3]

+1 vote for duralast gold. It ran fine for a couple of years, HIDs, fogs and 1200W RMS on 4AWG with no dimming.

You know dimming lights is a sign of a weak alternator right? Once the car is started, the alternator runs EVERYTHING. A larger CCA number or multiple batteries only makes a difference if the engine is OFF (or you have the system wired solely for that purpose).

[Reaper27]

Anyone have any experience with the diehard batteries?

[ShadowEP3]

Auto Zone and any other auto parts store has batteries overpriced as hell... and their so called warranties have so many loopholes its rediculous.
what loopholes? come in, battery is bad you get a new one if its in the 3 year free replacement period; if it just needs a charge, why spend cash on a new one? what other store gives you 30$-60$ back for a pro-rate?

btw, all our batteries (Duralast) are under-rated with the CCAs and CA's--they are rated at about 75 more amps than stated

[Ba82Ep3]

Loop holes as in they gotta be tested by the machine and found to be faulty. It has to provide a code. If it doesnt, then you send a pissed customer back out the door with a battery that has a weak cell and just hasnt failed yet. I had several that came back as 'unstable' but still wouldnt provide a replacement code. I thought one guy was gonna throw the battery through the window of the store after his third trip and two days of missing work.

The prorated shit is a loop hole as well. My battery is bad, why cant i just get a new one? Every battery for sale on the shelf of an auto parts store is recycled shit. There is no such thing as a 'brand new' battery for cars. The proration BS is just insult to injury. Not only are we providing you with a recycled battery that may fail you again, you cannot come back after the first replacement. You have to buy a new one outright. Proration is an inconvenience at best, and another way to generate revenue with faulty product.

Not to mention, the testing machine places a brand new battery CCA rating against lets say... a 3 year old battery. As a battery ages it loses its ability to fully recharge, even more so if the person uses the car or battery sporatically. So the battery is rated at 300cca, and you test it at 300cca on a 100 degree hot day... where the battery temp will be above 120 degrees (incidentally, the battery ratings arent found under those extreme conditions) and the battery only comes back with 70% of its storage capability. Depending on the machine used and its calibration, that battery would be failed... and if that battery isnt in warrany well you have just told a customer they need a new one. Testing an old battery to new battery standards is like asking a 60 year old man to run around the block in the same amount of time as a 30 year old man. It just aint gonna happen.

I always knocked 50cca or 100cca off the test (i would test a 600cca battery at 500cca... a 300cca at 250cca... depending on application) to give an older battery a chance to prove its ok... especially if the customer is obviously hating the idea they might have to replace a battery. Instead of pushing a new battery i did my best to help the customer find out what the issue was and solve it... not just sell them parts. You know how many times i saw a new battery sold to a customer and the real issue was the alternator belt was loose?

I dont know yalls complete policy, but the chain i worked at was bullshit. It should be... if its bad... replace it. If its good, have a nice day. Its the balance the industry has tried to maintain to make them a decent profit regardless of the failure rate. Did i mention its bullshit?