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zac3369
10-25-2011, 04:41 PM
I'm thinking about buying a Jackson racing supercharger from online. All internals are stock and the engine has about 160k miles. I plan on getting a compression test done to see if its even worth getting or if I'm just gonna blow my engine. Do I need to replace any internals first before I order it or should it be fine. Would it do any damage if I were to put it in with that many miles? Any response is appreciated.

Pandamanda22
10-25-2011, 05:01 PM
Don't waste money on your a3.. boost it and when it blows get a swap thats worth it.

Euro-Yellow-Ep3
10-25-2011, 07:00 PM
agreeed^^^^

hyu
10-25-2011, 07:58 PM
Don't waste money on your a3.. boost it and when it blows get a swap thats worth it.
Might be more money initially... K-pro, tuning it, turbo, exhaust etc vs supercharging it with a reflash.
Unless you can run turbos without a k-pro? Dunno havn't looked into turboing our cars that much

junevtec
10-25-2011, 08:45 PM
U could run it on low boost using greedy emanage piggy back ecu system

Blah1219
10-25-2011, 09:12 PM
If you have the money then Kpro first. You'll save in the long run!!

BlownSi05
10-26-2011, 10:05 AM
Do a compression test, and if everything looks good, you can go with the JRSC without replacing any internals.

Are you getting a power card (street kit) or flashed ECU/K-Pro (race kit) with it? it will need some kind of engine management, either way. K-Pro will net the best results, as you can take the car and have it tuned for your mods and purpose.

As far as the K20A3; I would recommend NOT to dump a lot of money into that motor. A few of us on here went down that road of trying to get all we could out of the A3. By the time we got close, we had already paid for a K20A2/Z1 swap that would have given us double the power and capability in the first place. The A3 honestly is not worth it if you are wanting a higher level of performance.

Edit: Also, if the JRSC has more that 80K-100K miles on it, it would be good to change the oil in it and also thing about changing the snout bearing as well. The last generation of the roots JRSC did not have the snout bearing problems the early gens did, but it is always better to be safe.

junevtec
10-26-2011, 10:09 AM
for the jrsc kit [street] does the ecu need a reflash or can he run a piggy back ecu or something?

BlownSi05
10-26-2011, 10:10 AM
for the jrsc kit [street] does the ecu need a reflash or can he run a piggy back ecu or something?

Street kit uses the power card piggy back.

gtolio
10-26-2011, 10:33 AM
Do a compression test, and if everything looks good, you can go with the JRSC without replacing any internals.

Are you getting a power card (street kit) or flashed ECU/K-Pro (race kit) with it? it will need some kind of engine management, either way. K-Pro will net the best results, as you can take the car and have it tuned for your mods and purpose.

As far as the K20A3; I would recommend NOT to dump a lot of money into that motor. A few of us on here went down that road of trying to get all we could out of the A3. By the time we got close, we had already paid for a K20A2/Z1 swap that would have given us double the power and capability in the first place. The A3 honestly is not worth it if you are wanting a higher level of performance.

Edit: Also, if the JRSC has more that 80K-100K miles on it, it would be good to change the oil in it and also thing about changing the snout bearing as well. The last generation of the roots JRSC did not have the snout bearing problems the early gens did, but it is always better to be safe.

Everyone wants to dog on the A3 all the time. I've said it before and I'll say it again, you can make decent power on the A3. Obviously it's not the best K configuration, but you CAN make power on it. I have and other people have. It's not a motor that you should go building, but it can take a little bit of abuse in stock form. In fact, I have had some friends with decently quick stock block A3s on JRSC race kits with the right supporting mods.

That being said, the JRSC street kit is worthless for how much it costs. If you are not going to upgrade it to a race kit and run kpro and a smaller pulley, you will be disappointed in the power you make for the money.

BlownSi05
10-26-2011, 11:06 AM
Everyone wants to dog on the A3 all the time. I've said it before and I'll say it again, you can make decent power on the A3. Obviously it's not the best K configuration, but you CAN make power on it. I have and other people have. It's not a motor that you should go building, but it can take a little bit of abuse in stock form. In fact, I have had some friends with decently quick stock block A3s on JRSC race kits with the right supporting mods.

That being said, the JRSC street kit is worthless for how much it costs. If you are not going to upgrade it to a race kit and run kpro and a smaller pulley, you will be disappointed in the power you make for the money.

I am not knocking the A3. My car had an A3 the entire time and I loved it. It is a great motor that can take a hell of a beating. My point was that replacing internals and fixing the A3 is not worth the money, since the costs would be close to the cost of an A2/Z1 swap. I know, I had to replace the valvetrain on my A3 and I regretted it, even to this day. I could have swapped an A2 and had it retuned for that cost.

gtolio
10-26-2011, 11:11 AM
I am not knocking the A3. My car had an A3 the entire time and I loved it. It is a great motor that can take a hell of a beating. My point was that replacing internals and fixing the A3 is not worth the money, since the costs would be close to the cost of an A2/Z1 swap. I know, I had to replace the valvetrain on my A3 and I regretted it, even to this day. I could have swapped an A2 and had it retuned for that cost.

Agreed.

StockTexasEP3
11-05-2011, 11:38 AM
Interesting...

zac3369
11-27-2011, 11:35 AM
Part# 989-304 $3,495.00
Civic SI Race Supercharger System - w/K-Pro ECU

This is what all comes with it...
Item No. Description Qty Item No. Description Qty
989-302 SUPERCHARGER SYSTEM, RACE 1 989-559 RSX MAP RELOCATION BRKT KIT 1
988-109 TENSIONER ASSEMBLY 1 052-371 BRACKET, MAP SENSOR RELOCATION 1
051-206 BOLT, HEX, M6 X 1.0 X 70 1 052-373 O-RING, BUNA-N, NO. 108 1
051-215 SPACER, SHOULDER 1 051-142 HOSE BARB, 5/32 VACUUM 1
051-219 T-NUT, TENSIONER BOLTS 1 771-368 SCREW, PHILLIPS, M5 X 0.8 X 35 1
051-359 NUT, STANDARD HEX, M6 X 1.0 1 051-259 HOSE, VACUUM, 5/32 IN., BULK 8
051-627 PULLEY, 2.0IN IDLER, NYLON 1 051-696 BADGE, JACKSON RACING 2
051-788 BOLT, HEX M10 X 1.5 X 40 1 052-071 LICENSE PLATE FRAME, JR 1
051-861 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 40 2
052-293 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 70 1
052-328 CASTING, BELT TENSIONER 1
052-331 SPACER, IDLER, .325 1
052-377 SCREW, AHCS, M6 X 1.0 X 10 1
988-425 INTAKE & SUPERCHARGER ASSEMBLY 1
051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 1
051-075 WASHER, LOCK, M8 1
051-121 SCREW, SHCS, M6 X 1.0 X 16 4
051-142 HOSE BARB. 7/32 VACUUM 2
051-144 HOSE, SILICONE, 1.5 ID X 1.25 2
051-151 VACUUM CAP, 5/32 1
051-189 CLAMP, HOSE, NARROW BAND 4
051-207 SCREW, AHCS, M8 X 1.25 X 25 4
051-529 GASKET, JR BYPASS-MANIFOLD 1
051-551 HOSE, VACUUM, 7/32, BULK 14
051-553 RETAINING CLIP, 7/32 VACUUM 1
051-680 HOSE BARB, 3/8 VACUUM 1
052-032 TUBE, BYPASS 1
052-160 S/C JR M62CW, NO NOSE PULLEY 1
052-155 PULLEY, S/C 4.0 7-RIB 1
052-179 GASKET, JR62 S/C TO INTAKE 1
052-326 MANIFOLD, INTAKE, CIVIC SI 1
052-378 BYPASS VALVE, PORT OUT 1
052-386 BOLT, HEX, M8 X 1.25 X 100 1
988-426 HARDWARE AND HOSE BAG 1
051-016 CABLE TIE, 4IN. 8
051-135 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 40 2
051-151 VACUUM CAP, 5/32 1
051-207 SCREW, AHCS, M8 X 1.25 X 25 4
051-505 BOLT,HEX FLANGE,M8 X 1.25 X 25 8
051-528 GASKET,GEN3 S/C-TB ADAPTER 1
052-407 BELT, 5070625 1
051-680 HOSE BARB, 3/8 VACUUM 2
052-327 MANIFOLD, SUPERCHARGER INLET 1
051-142 HOSE BARB, 5/32 VACUUM 2
052-167 GASKET, INTAKE MANIFOLD 1
051-190 CLAMP, HOSE, SAE NO. 8 1
051-260 HOSE, PCV, 3/8 IN ID, BULK 24
052-830 INJECTORS, MATCHED SET,440CC 1
052-567 INJECTOR HARNESS,RSX & CIVICSI 4
052-010 STICKER, PREMIUM FUEL RQRD 1
052-355 STICKER, AIR TEMP. SENSOR 2
052-356 STICKER, MAP SENSOR 2
052-357 STICKER, TPS 2
052-358 STICKER, IAC VALVE 2
052-359 STICKER, EVAP. SOLENOID 2

RHCP0801
11-27-2011, 11:45 AM
and????

Ba82Ep3
11-27-2011, 01:27 PM
Those who bag on the k20a3 are aware that the block is essentially a k20a2 without the oil squirters and OE forged parts... right?

All you need is used k20a2 crank rods and pistons that meet OE spec and you can build a k20a2 bottom end. Pick up k20a2 used cams and four more exhaust rockers and kill VTEC and you'll have a 200hp engine.

This can be done for less than 1k. That's a hell of a lot cheaper than a swap OR turbo kit.

RHCP0801
11-27-2011, 09:00 PM
that's a hell of a lot less hp than a swap or turbo kit also

Ba82Ep3
11-27-2011, 10:31 PM
Of course it is... but it gives you the durability that everyone seems to think the a3 lacks... a better base platform.

Tamerin
11-27-2011, 10:53 PM
With those changes, could the S/C still work?

I have a A3 w/ the JRSC, and find it interesting you could do that. Would be nice to know if I could do that and still keep my S/C added for the added power as well and not blow the head/block.

Ba82Ep3
11-28-2011, 12:45 AM
Absolutely...

Tamerin
11-28-2011, 08:18 AM
Reading back in this thread, it was noted that you should replace the snout bearing and oil. Engine just hit 95,000 miles, but I have no idea how long the S/C has been on this car, so I figured I could just replace it now to get it done and over with.

Is there a DIY for both of those? I noticed a flapping noise coming from my engine bay where the S/C is at higher RPM's, so either the belt is crapping out or perhaps something is loose with the S/C. Either way, should get those both done.

StockTexasEP3
11-29-2011, 10:17 PM
Those who bag on the k20a3 are aware that the block is essentially a k20a2 without the oil squirters and OE forged parts... right?

All you need is used k20a2 crank rods and pistons that meet OE spec and you can build a k20a2 bottom end. Pick up k20a2 used cams and four more exhaust rockers and kill VTEC and you'll have a 200hp engine.


This can be done for less than 1k. That's a hell of a lot cheaper than a swap OR turbo kit.

What about engine management??

Ba82Ep3
11-29-2011, 10:23 PM
KPro... or EMS. I tend to take that for granted as an option. I just assume everyone would get one or the other. lol

BlownSi05
12-01-2011, 10:25 AM
Reading back in this thread, it was noted that you should replace the snout bearing and oil. Engine just hit 95,000 miles, but I have no idea how long the S/C has been on this car, so I figured I could just replace it now to get it done and over with.

Is there a DIY for both of those? I noticed a flapping noise coming from my engine bay where the S/C is at higher RPM's, so either the belt is crapping out or perhaps something is loose with the S/C. Either way, should get those both done.


You do not have to replace the snout bearing if it is working fine i.e. no noise, squeaking, etc. Some of the early blowers soon after the kits were released had an issue with them wearing out or failing, but this was in the very first production line. I mentioned it earlier as just something that you should keep an eye on.

Changing the oil is easy and can even be done with the blower still on the car, but to me it was just as easy to pull the blower off, drain the oil, re-fill, and re-install. Not sure if there is a DIY posted here for it. At the base of the snout there is a little allen-key plug that you remove to drain the oil. I used the GM Supercharger oil (available at any GM dealership) and I think the bottle was 4 oz. One bottle is enough to re-fill.

StockTexasEP3
12-01-2011, 08:38 PM
KPro... or EMS. I tend to take that for granted as an option. I just assume everyone would get one or the other. lol

Which pushes the cost of a swap over 2 k. Why isn't there open source tuning again?

Ba82Ep3
12-02-2011, 06:46 AM
Which sucks i know. Its definitely a horse that has been beaten, shot, and stabbed... but for these chassis/engines there isnt but so much you can do about that.

gtolio
12-02-2011, 08:21 AM
JRSC-R for sale... :mangel:

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?66506-gtolio-Garage-Sale