To build or to buy?

[ryboto]

So, I've seen other members mention a K24A1+K20Z3 frank build is cheaper than going K24A2, and yields about the same power, is that correct?

I've never undertaken a rebuild, but I've got the patience and ability to learn. What would be better for a novice like me, rebuild, or buy OEM and drop it in? What's more cost effective?

[Ba82Ep3]

As with any engine build, you have to ask yourself your end goal. Solid long lasting reliable power? Racing? Dyno queen? Unfortunately you cant really have all three under the hood (without spending A LOT of $$$ anyways). Know this though, and you can answer your mod choices along the way.

The k24a2 head isnt as good as a k20a2, k20z3, or even a k24a1 head in my opinion. In a lot of respects, the head is the costliest part of a build. While buying a k24a2 longblock gives you 3 lobe VTEC, you still have the power limiting head. But you have to keep in mind a lot of that power is only found with high revs. That is the weakness of the k24a1... thin rods. While adding a k20z3 head to a k24a1 bottom end can make more power... are you SAFELY revving to find it? Will you find it with the stock intake manifold? Exhaust? ETC?

If you look at the k24a1/z3 setup... you need supporting mods and some wrench time to take advantage. Personally, i think you could be really happy with a k24a1 longblock, and the newer k24z pistons (11.0cr). Take the time to add the new pistons/rings and check the rest of the engine out, and youll know you have a solid long lasting engine. Tune it, set the rev limiter to 7500... and keep some tires in stock. lol

If you get to the point you get bit by the power bug... you can always SAFELY/RELIABLY go boost on what you already have... and have wayyy more power than you can put down on the street.

IMO, a performance three lobe head isnt worth the price tag when there are ways you can get 95% of that power from a two lobe head. So many car guys want the 12 inch penis that they forget how to use the 8 incher they were given. Work it right and youll be smilin... :mredface:

:mbiggrin:

[AKEP]

you have an 8incher? lucky...

[bchaney]

I originally decided on the k20/k24 frank because it was cheaper and made better power than a k24a2. Cheaper = a simple frank like taking an a2/z3 head and slapping it on an assembled a1 shortblock. After all was said and done, I couldn't resist the urge to "do it rite the first time" and swap out those a1 internals, a2 cams, etc. It ended up being more expensive than a simple k24a2 swap but I learned a ton and I don't regret any of it. I finished the build without one "I should've done ___ while I was in there"

[RHCP0801]

I decided on a plain old k24a2 because I was pressed for time and the a3 blew out of nowhere so I really wasn't prepared. After it was all said and done I couldn't be happier, 230hp and 196tq later from just dropping a motor in, I'm a happy camper :mcool:

[yyi]

If you look at the k24a1/z3 setup... you need supporting mods and some wrench time to take advantage. Personally, i think you could be really happy with a k24a1 longblock, and the newer k24z pistons (11.0cr). Take the time to add the new pistons/rings and check the rest of the engine out, and youll know you have a solid long lasting engine. Tune it, set the rev limiter to 7500... and keep some tires in stock. lol


Has it been proven? the k24z pistons with 11.x:1 will work with z1/z3/a2 heads and k24a2/a4/a1 block? I have asked k20a that many times without any solid replies.

[ryboto]

IMO, a performance three lobe head isnt worth the price tag when there are ways you can get 95% of that power from a two lobe head. So many car guys want the 12 inch penis that they forget how to use the 8 incher they were given. Work it right and youll be smilin... :mredface:

:mbiggrin:

So, there's enough info on the site for me to do this on my own? As for cost, I can find K24A2's for 1800-2200 with under 40k on them. Would a build be less than that?


I decided on a plain old k24a2 because I was pressed for time and the a3 blew out of nowhere so I really wasn't prepared. After it was all said and done I couldn't be happier, 230hp and 196tq later from just dropping a motor in, I'm a happy camper :mcool:

what other mods? and how much did you pay for your K24, if you don't mind me askin?

[02TWSI]

If you don't buy from overpriced vendors, you can find k24a2 for much less than 1800$.

[RHCP0801]

its an 06 k24a2, rbc intake mani, 3" type s cai, ssr race header, 3" exhaust and of course kpro. I paid $1600, 39k miles, 30 day warranty delivered to my door from a local junkyard

[ryboto]

its an 06 k24a2, rbc intake mani, 3" type s cai, ssr race header, 3" exhaust and of course kpro. I paid $1600, 39k miles, 30 day warranty delivered to my door from a local junkyard

Nice, I'll have to hit up some junkyards in my area. I'd just been browsing Car-part.com, seems to be a few within a days drive that are around that price.

[PRODIUS]

Amen for Car-parts.com, got my k24a2 with only 13000 verified km's for 2000 Canadian!

[bchaney]

Has it been proven? the k24z pistons with 11.x:1 will work with z1/z3/a2 heads and k24a2/a4/a1 block? I have asked k20a that many times without any solid replies.

I'm running 09 TSX pistons in an a1 block with an a2 head. 09 TSX = k24z?

I clayed it and there was plenty of clearance.

RHCP - I'm jealous that you made similar power w your setup

[Ba82Ep3]

Has it been proven? the k24z pistons with 11.x:1 will work with z1/z3/a2 heads and k24a2/a4/a1 block? I have asked k20a that many times without any solid replies.

Good point... and thats exactly why i bought the k24z piston and ringset for this 2.2 im puttin together. I wanted to know for myself. Looking at the pistons though... and comparing them to k24a2 pistons... i dont see why not. Centered wristpin to wristpin and mic'n the piston face... looks like there is plenty of room. Of course there are always variables to consider (milled head/block) and in my situation... length of a custom rod and how deep the piston comes into the combustion chamber.

Which brings up a thought i ran across building this hybrid a3. The Honda manual says it doesnt matter how you place rod and crank bearings, if you use two different sizes to meet spec. For my rods... i needed yellow and green on all four. If you place the thicker rod bearing cap side, and the thinner bearing rod side, you bring the piston down that much as well. Something to consider if you are using a head that has been milled .010 and youre looking for every little bit of clearance.


So, there's enough info on the site for me to do this on my own? As for cost, I can find K24A2's for 1800-2200 with under 40k on them. Would a build be less than that?

High ball an OEM bottom end rebuild at $1000. That covers a new ringset, pistons, and all new bearings and seals. If you source used pistons (which is not a bad thing if they meet the manuals spec)... you save even more. If the block you get is in decent shape... you my not even have to hone the cylinders (im waiting on the responses for that one). The last shortblock i rebuilt i spent less than $650 in parts. So if you can find a decent k24a1 for $800, you can have a REBUILT engine (longblock, including new valve seals for the head... etc) that you know yourself is right for less than 2k. Not a hunk of metal out of the junkyard that MIGHT be a ticking timebomb.

As far as having enough info on this site... this thread alone has enough people in it that have been through what you are contemplating to be able to help you with anything you need to know. If it isnt posted, someone knows about it... or can point you in the right direction.

Also sign up on k20a.org. Great site. Look up a member named Signalpuke. In his sig he has a lot of links that are basically a map to all of the important engine info you could ever need... and then some. It will save you some time trying to find anything else you may want to read up on.

[Ba82Ep3]

I'm running 09 TSX pistons in an a1 block with an a2 head. 09 TSX = k24z?

I clayed it and there was plenty of clearance.

RHCP - I'm jealous that you made similar power w your setup

Yep... they are also the pistons found in the Accord k24

[ryboto]

Good point... and thats exactly why i bought the k24z piston and ringset for this 2.2 im puttin together. I wanted to know for myself. Looking at the pistons though... and comparing them to k24a2 pistons... i dont see why not. Centered wristpin to wristpin and mic'n the piston face... looks like there is plenty of room. Of course there are always variables to consider (milled head/block) and in my situation... length of a custom rod and how deep the piston comes into the combustion chamber.

Which brings up a thought i ran across building this hybrid a3. The Honda manual says it doesnt matter how you place rod and crank bearings, if you use two different sizes to meet spec. For my rods... i needed yellow and green on all four. If you place the thicker rod bearing cap side, and the thinner bearing rod side, you bring the piston down that much as well. Something to consider if you are using a head that has been milled .010 and youre looking for every little bit of clearance.



High ball an OEM bottom end rebuild at $1000. That covers a new ringset, pistons, and all new bearings and seals. If you source used pistons (which is not a bad thing if they meet the manuals spec)... you save even more. If the block you get is in decent shape... you my not even have to hone the cylinders (im waiting on the responses for that one). The last shortblock i rebuilt i spent less than $650 in parts. So if you can find a decent k24a1 for $800, you can have a REBUILT engine (longblock, including new valve seals for the head... etc) that you know yourself is right for less than 2k. Not a hunk of metal out of the junkyard that MIGHT be a ticking timebomb.

As far as having enough info on this site... this thread alone has enough people in it that have been through what you are contemplating to be able to help you with anything you need to know. If it isnt posted, someone knows about it... or can point you in the right direction.

Also sign up on k20a.org. Great site. Look up a member named Signalpuke. In his sig he has a lot of links that are basically a map to all of the important engine info you could ever need... and then some. It will save you some time trying to find anything else you may want to read up on.

Thanks for the info. I looked around car-part and K20a, the K24A1 block is hard to find, and only 4 listings on car-part, 400miles from me, but all under $600. Didn't really find any listings for a z3 head. I understand an engine from a wreck might not be the best thing, but if it's tested to work, and it's got low miles, I imagine it's a safe bet. I'm going to see if any of the junkyards around have anything in the way of K24A2/a1/z3's, maybe I can buy the parts. For me though, if a build comes even close to the cost of an A2, I'd just go with the A2 since I've got a manual for engine removal/installation, and that specific swap has been documented a lot.

I guess it would make a difference if I had someone around here that could help me. Aside from buying an entire engine, know any places other than K20a.org that'd have an A1 block/z3 head for sale?

[RHCP0801]

drive down to NY and I will help you put it in

[ryboto]

drive down to NY and I will help you put it in

Gotta find one first. Where in NY are you?

[RHCP0801]

Long Island