consequences of a higher output alternator?

[lldiesel386ll]

so...
seeing that my alternator was nearing its end i decided to replace it with a new higher output unit. our units from the factory provide 80a, while the new ac delco unit i picked up provided 105a.
since installing it (which is a bear with the rsx sc manifold btw :mfrown:) i've encountered a number of issues i havent seen before. while my car turns over like a champ now, my car now has the battery light on. after a little bit of thought and deliberation, that makes a bit of sense, since the alternator is now sending more juice to the battery. however, i have also encountered two codes--p0505 and p1129. p0505 is something with my iacv, while p1129 is my map sensor apparently receiving too high a voltage signal which really sparked my interest (no pun intended:mtongue:)
my question is since i introduced a higher output alternator to my system, will that affect the voltages going to those sensors? if so, is there any way to remediate the issue simply and permanently? while i would really not like to go back in and replace that alternator again, that is an option thats on my radar. as always any responses would be appreciated :thumbu:

[mikewbd]

how certain are you of the p1129 being caused by the map sensor receiving too high a voltage?

[lldiesel386ll]

i'm not certain. p1129 gives out the following code error--"Manifold Absolute Pressure(MAP) Sensor signal higher than expected"
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?62265-CEL-Codes-How-to-check-em-and-what-they-mean&highlight=p1129
since i didnt change anything besides going to a higher output alternator, i am assuming that that is the cause of my woes. right now my battery loads looked good based on what my friend said (electrical stuff baffles me; friend works in bmw corporate in the hybrid division), so im stumped :shrug:

[lldiesel386ll]

yes, no, maybe? :shrug:

[usedep3]

:shrug:

:shrug:

:shrug:

[lldiesel386ll]

:shrug:

:shrug:

:shrug:

its ok, mike--i don't expect engineers to know anything :mtongue:

[lldiesel386ll]

in all seriousness though, my concern is that while the car can limp along, in due time im slowly frying something...not something id be looking forward to :mfrown:

[Silvercard]

Im sure you know but that ivac code usually means to clean that port in the throttle body. I got it two weeks ago when going wot and cleared the code with my scan gauge. Now with the alternator, I didn't get the same problem when I went to that delco with the same amount of amps. My sub was hitting harder and less struggle of the engine when I blasted my sheit. It failed after 2 weeks since I got some shit on the coils when working on my engine and it seized the alternator. I went back to oem since I found one used a few miles away. I was actually planning to pick that one up this weekend but saw this... Hopefully the vets have a answer.

[lldiesel386ll]

thanks for the response--did your battery light turn on as well after installation?

[Silvercard]

Naw. Idk the car was running somewhat not normal for like the first hour but got back into the game afterwards. Whats the condition of your battery? I had mine replaced a few days earlier with a duralast gold because the honda one gave up.

[lldiesel386ll]

totally overlooked, but thats another interesting variable--i have a braille b2015. i cant remember the specs of the stock unit, but you can find information on what i have here

http://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/batteries/b2015/#

as always any input to resolve these issues would be appreciated

[Ba82Ep3]

I got nothing homie. LOL

I know the multiplexer is supposed to control a lot of things (electrical paths instead of individual wires)... but there shouldn't be an issue with higher amperage output. Only if the voltage was higher than normal should there be a problem. Maybe the regulator inside the alternator you bought is unstable and creating the issue? I could see a random issue if the regulator was allowing voltage spikes...

[AKEP]

check the charge cable down there under the supercharger. my problem was that even though it felt like it clicked in, it wasn't and it wouldn't charge my car. you really have to squeeze those harness plugs to get them to connect. all those wires are connected in the loom, so you might have pulled the MAP sensor around or something.

I know it sucks, working under the manifold/supercharger is terrible. no space and you can't see anything...

[usedep3]

yea, poor jaime. he's gotta rough it out with a blower, k24 and an alternator that generates too much. wahhhhhh

[lldiesel386ll]

yea, poor jamie. he's gotta rough it out with a blower, k24 and an alternator that generates too much. wahhhhhh

:mangel: lol

that blower is doing me little good if the car's electrical system's put me on limp mode lol. on a ~20 mile mostly freeway drive home from with little to no time at idle the car ran fine; idle is looking a little rough, so i will try to clean it come the weekend--hopefully that will resolve that matter. however the map sensor code and battery light still baffle me. as always any input would be appreciated :thumbu:

[AKEP]

fix battery light first. you might fix those problems in the process.

[lldiesel386ll]

i agree with the sentiments; my trouble with that battery light is that i'm lost to cause--with the new alternator installed my voltage readings are significantly higher than they were before the installation, and my car turns over like a champ. maybe its me, but my lights also appear more bright :shrug:
what is just as frustrating is that i cant seem to replicate the problem. while the battery light stayed on, on my morning commute my car ran smoothly. i am stumped

[Ba82Ep3]

Did you reuse your OEM alt pulley... or the one that came with it?

[lldiesel386ll]

i am using the pulley that the alternator came with

[Ba82Ep3]

Are the two the same size?

[lldiesel386ll]

quickly eyeballing them they were the same size--reinstalling my original belt i encountered no troubles. in hindsight measurement between the two pulleys would have been a good means of control, but i cant see the consequences of varying pulley size to an alternator--can you over/underdrive an alternator? :shrug:

as another update, car ran smoothly today on my evening commute with nothing but that battery light on. while a good feeling that i am not struggling with a limping rough idling car, it is concerning that i havent identified a root cause :mfrown:

[Ba82Ep3]

Sure can...

[usedep3]

quickly eyeballing them they were the same size--reinstalling my original belt i encountered no troubles. in hindsight measurement between the two pulleys would have been a good means of control, but i cant see the consequences of varying pulley size to an alternator--can you over/underdrive an alternator? :shrug:

as another update, car ran smoothly today on my evening commute with nothing but that battery light on. while a good feeling that i am not struggling with a limping rough idling car, it is concerning that i havent identified a root cause :mfrown:

so it was the belt? i was gonna say that it was a bad alternator.

[lldiesel386ll]

the reason i referred to the belt was that i figured if the alternator pulley sizes were significantly different from one another i would have seen a big difference in belt tension--it would either be more loose if the new pulley was too small or it would be impossible to install the original belt if the pulley was too large

[lldiesel386ll]

as an update, on the home stretch of my morning commute to work, p0505 came up again, battery light is still on; im still stumped. car still turns over strongly

[AKEP]

all these problems from around the throttle body area. i know that alternator is a bitch to install and pull out, you should really check around the harness under the manifold. you may have pulled something during the uninstall...

[sLiCk]

A higher output alternator should not be an issue as long as it is the correct application for the ep3. The alternator output rating is what it 'can' potentially put out when the electrical demands call for it. It doesn't mean the alternator will be constantly charging more than your oem part. The battery light comes on when the ecu senses a lower voltage than the predetermined value set in the computer(usually somewhere around 10v depending on vehicle). Some engine sensors depend on battery voltage of ~12v, anything less and all sorts of codes and driveability issues will come up. If I were you I'd definitely chase down the battery light first before doing anything else.