Wheels spacers:: good or bad?

[Popeye]

I've done a basic search on here, and not a WHOLE lot came up to satisfy the info I'm looking for. I was told that a 3mm up front, and a 5mm in the back, spacer would work on stock lug nuts.
With that being said, how much stress do spacers honestly put on our bearings? Are we talking bearings that would normally last say 50,000 (just throwing a # out there), would only last say half that? Maybe just a little less?
If it doesnt take THAT much life out of the bearings, I was wondering how easy the wheel studs are to change on our cars to put slightly larger spacers on. I am going to be replacing the brakes in Feb., and am also wondering if our rotors are the kind that come off easily, or do they need to be pressed off? (My '94 Accord had rotors that had to be pressed off. Flipping SUCKS when you dont have the equipment and you have no choice but to pay someone else to do such an easy task.) If they are that easy, I would LIKE to be able to put new wheel studs on while Im at it. Also, assuming that I can do all of this with no hitches, what size spacers would ya'll recommend on oem wheels? I JUST bought new tires, so I will just buy my wheels between now and when its time to get new tires. BUT, I will also be lowering the car in Feb. as well, and dont want that crazy damn gap between the wheel/tire and the fender to look even worse than it does NOW.
Also, I've never used wheel spacers before. Do you just put them onto the rotor before you put the wheel on, and that's it? Hope that's not TOO stupid of a question. But, it's one I figured I should ask anyways!

[PatrickJamesYu]

I believe many users are running 10mm on stock studs.
And I've seen people run even more, with special kind of lug nuts.

I couldn't imagine such a small spacer causing that much stress on the bearing, but I could be wrong.

I believe the studs do have to be pressed out, but shops like Autozone, and Oreilly's, I believe allow you to rent the tool for free, just with a deposit.

If you're looking to get rid of the gap, you're going to be looking at much much wider spacers.
I'd run like a 20mm or 25mm
But that takes more care to run it.

If you run something like that, make sure to get extended studs, make sure the spacer is hub centric, and find a ball seat lug nut with an open end to allow for the extended stud.

[Popeye]

How many turns do you need to have to be safe? I like to run my car fairly hard in the mountains every now and then. Will probably run a little harder once I lower it and put all new brakes on. I THINK I read that, with 5mm spacers, we can get about 6 or so turns.
If they have to be pressed OUT, what about installing new ones? I will be replacing my rotors as well, so if it's easy, I will just put new wheel studs on the new rotors, then just install them.
So the brake rotors just come right off, in a matter of speaking? (What I mean by that, like my wife's Camry, all I have to do is run two small bolts into two pre-made holes, and it just pushes the rotor right off.)
Also, are the hubcentric spacers the ones that have a taper kinda deal in the middle? Also, are they the ones that look like you bolt them to your car, then bolt your wheels to the new spacer? Not sure how that works exactly.

[PatrickJamesYu]

I've read that 7 turns is safe, but I can't back that up.

As far as the rotors, I don't know yet, but I'll know soon.

I think your terminology is off with the 'taper'.
It's not so much a taper, its a hub step/lip.
If you've seen your rotor/hub, there is a step for the wheel to sit on. Hub centric spacers simply also have that step.

The bolt-on spacers are just a different style.
I don't like them, as if a stud breaks, it's not easily replaceable.
I recommend the extended studs route.
If you're looking to drive your car harder, what about upgrading to wider wheels?
That eliminates the need for spacers and adapters.

[Popeye]

I WILL be, but it's gonna hafta wait until it's time for another set of tires. I JUST bought a new set at the end of October. They are Cooper CS4's, the H-rated version. I believe they're rated at like 400-something tread wear. I will be buying some Slips here and there, that when it IS time for new tires, I just have them installed and I'm good to go. Im just looking to fill the fenders between now and then.

[88crx]

The amount of threads you'll get depends on the wheels your running. I couldnt get enought turns with 5mm spacers, max I could run was 3mm. And there's no way you could run 10mm on stock studs.

[ep3lookslikeyou]

from the research i did... I found 5mm to be a ballpark number on the max you could run on STOCK studs. I eventually ran a set of 5mm spacers front and back. They go on directly against the rotor behind the wheel. I would even recommend cleaning all the rust off the face of the rotor so you have a smooth even surface for the spacer to sit up against...to prevent uneven surface and possible vibration.

I eventually wanted a bigger spacer(15mm front and rear) so i purchased HUBCENTRIC spacers and i was required to replace my stock studs with extended studs that came with my spacers.

[PatrickJamesYu]

And there's no way you could run 10mm on stock studs.

Unless you run those special lugnuts.
There's a type of lugnut I learned about recently that are sleeve type, so the threads go further in than the seat.
Seemed weird until I put them on my friends Prelude.

[lemonhead228]

Nah 10 mm is pushing it for the stock lugs cuz the nuts prolly gonna be hold in 3 threads?

Get apr extended wheel studs to be on the safe side and you can run any spacers you'll like without worrying bout anything.

[ep3jd]

I have 8 currently and I feel thats pushing it.

[ep3jd]

And studs are extremely easy on our cars. Just run extended if you're worried. Or get the hub centric spacers with a second set of studs built in. Up to you

[SHG_EasyE]

I wouldnt run more than a 5mm spacer on OEM studs. You want at least 6-7 full revolutions of the lug nut for a safe thread engagement.

As far as premature wear on the wheel bearings, no need to worry. Honda over engineers their parts, so the OEM bearings are very stout. I cant say the same for an aftermarket replacement bearing if they have been changed at some point. But even in that case a 5-10mm spacing isnt going to make a difference either way.

If youd like to run a 20-25mm spacer use a bolt on style. Make sure to get a quality set like ichiba or kicks. Stay away from no name crap on ebay, they tend to use low quality alloys and manufacturing tolerances. When using a high quality bolt on spacer there is no need to worry about durability or reliability. They are safe to use even under racing conditions with R compound tires. Evasive used to run a set of bolt on Kicks spacers on their time attack Evo.

[cvicep3]

So 5mm you can go with stock studs?

[SHG_EasyE]

Yup I actually just had a set of 5mm spacers made for my back wheels and Ive got 4mm on the front for rotor back spacing, both stock studs :thumbu:

[klik]

I have 5 mm spacer on my 35mm offset wheels and they are perfect with the 2 inch drop ive been running this setup of years and didnt have any problems at all. The lug nuts i believe turned 8 times with this wheels.

[sippyyy]

And studs are extremely easy on our cars. Just run extended if you're worried. Or get the hub centric spacers with a second set of studs built in. Up to you

hopefully I can get a quick/easy answer this route...just need a quick DIY on installing extended wheel studs. does the hub assembly have to come off or can you get away with just taking the rotor off?

[sippyyy]

nevermind! you already answered it in a different thread!



Take off the rotor(and caliper obv), smack the snapped stud out the back, put the new one in its place, and use an open ended nut to crank it down and lock it in place. Then put everything back together.









I guarantee SOMEONE tells me I'm wrong but I've replaced lots of studs this way and never once had an issue.

[Drunken Yak inc]

That will not work on the front! I'm running 15mm Eibach spacers on the front with extended lugs. He is correct with the method to get the old ones out and how to properly set the new ones, however, you can not place the new studs in with the hub on the car without grinding one side of the extended stud down to clear the hub. There simply isn't enough clearance.

[RHCP0801]

^^^agreed I have done front studs before you need to grind one side flat

[makavelibranded]

Yup I actually just had a set of 5mm spacers made for my back wheels and Ive got 4mm on the front for rotor back spacing, both stock studs :thumbu:

Did you ever race with them? Ive known 2 people who had spacers on there cars and both lost a wheel while autocrossing since then I have never seen them as safe.

[RHCP0801]

what kind of spacers? the ones with lugs already in them or spacers on stock lugs? I don't see how the spacers with lugs in them would cause a wheel to fall off

[powdbyrice]

http://jonsibal.com/2012/BenSopraD_8.jpg
bensopra gtr wheel spacer.

Nobuteru Taniguchi skills was called upon to test the drifting capabilities of the BenSopra GT-R... so i'd say with a quality spacer, you'll be fine.

[sippyyy]

That will not work on the front! I'm running 15mm Eibach spacers on the front with extended lugs. He is correct with the method to get the old ones out and how to properly set the new ones, however, you can not place the new studs in with the hub on the car without grinding one side of the extended stud down to clear the hub. There simply isn't enough clearance.

ok that's what I've gathered as well...any safety issues or is there still enough metal to safely seat the studs?

[Drunken Yak inc]

You will still have 60% of the ring left, which is more then plenty to keep the stud from being pulled through, in my opinion.

[Popeye]

Do spacers actually help make the car more stable? Or are they for looks ONLY?

[cvicep3]

I have Ichiba 5mm and 15mm V2. 5mm fits fine for the front, but the 15mm V2 doesn't fit due to my wheels. Decided not to use them all, let me know if you want to buy them.