Engine ?'s (p0134)

[gamma6]

So this past thursday night i got cel (code p0134)... it was a matter of just turning on my car and bam! cel on and stuttering engine. my vacuum (boost gauge) read about 15inhg on thursday night and then lately it reads ~5inhg. last night i changed out the o2 sensor and reset the ecu. cel is gone but still drives like crap... any help or solution on this issue?

mods:
jrsc (3.8 pulley, k24 cp)
rc 650's
megan rsx-s rh
short ram
2.5 piping with twinloop
kpro

[AttarixEp]

Run the car, take some brake clean and spray on every gasket and hose on the intake side. If you have a vac leak, the engine performance and sound during idle will change significantly.

[gamma6]

Run the car, take some brake clean and spray on every gasket and hose on the intake side. If you have a vac leak, the engine performance and sound during idle will change significantly.

i suppose i can try that but the vacuum problem occurred as soon as the cel came on, before it was reading fine

[AKEP]

yeah you gotta check the vac lines dude. or anything they're connected to. check the bolts holding the jrsc and the throttle body. all the low vac reading means is the manifold isn't sealed. the car runs off the MAP sensor and IAT, that's how it dertermins how much air is flowing though. thats why it runs like shit.

[gamma6]

Ill do that when i have a chance, but thing is idk how from just turning it off then on, do i get a vac problem... it was running fine, hit the gym, then after i turn it on i got the cel and stutterness...
I check kpro and it says p0134, change it out for a new one and reset the ecu... cel off, (after ecu reset) but still horrible gas mileage, smell and stutterness...
but ill check... so leave the car running and just spray lines AND around the manifold?
Is there anything i can do in kpro like turning on open loop or something like that, that the ecu/kpro might have kicked on when it saw no o2 sensor?

[gamma6]

Driving to work this morning and cel came back on fml... and car actually died on me twice omw home cuz rpms drop so low during idle...

[gamma6]

Any other suggestions?! Im getting desprate i dont know what to do other than check kpro (need extension cord 1st) for cel and check for vacuum leaks?

[gamma6]

so got around to checking for vacuum leaks...
-noticed that a bolt on the sc manifold was loose and sticking out; i went around and tightened the rest but can access that particular bolt because the tb is in the way. i turned the car on and heard a hissing noise near the area but was afraid to keep it running and was unable to see if that bolt is causing the leak...
is that possible? one bolt out of 7 causing all this mayhem?
-So yesterday i hopped on kpro to check the cel that came on on monday, i forgot to write it down and when i tried to check again it was gone.
-Today when i turned the engine on to check for leaks i got another cel. hop on kpro and get this:
p0302 cyl. #2 misfire
p0303 cyl. #3 misfire
p0304 cyl. #4 misfire
and last but not least P0300 random misfire
FML!!! could this "vacuum leak" cause this misfire?
should i focus on trying to tighten that bolt back up or focus on diagnosing the misfire?

I am not sure how all of a sudden im getting these problems. i literally turned my car on after it had been running fine and it turned to hell

[AKEP]

lol yeah check all the bolts. the tb isn't that hard to take off, we didn't connect the heater lines back to it, should just be cables and 4 bolts, pop tb off and a wrench/socket on the bolt. the middle one on bottom is ok right?

[Ba82Ep3]

All it takes is one small leak... and yes... that lower center SC mani bolt CAN be that much of an issue.

You can pull the two bolts that hold the cable bracket to the TB so you dont have to reset the cables again. Then pull the 4 bolts that hold the TB to the IM.

If you have a racheting close ended wrench... you can tighten the lower center SC mani bolt. Get the bolt in finger tight and then look down on top of the SC mani close to the valve cover. There is an access hole in the SC mani that is just big enough to see the lower center SC mani bolt from the top. A ratcheting wrench will slide in there and allow you to get er tight.

[gamma6]

Wooohooo i got some replies :) but yea the lower center one looked ok... its just the lower bottom right one (facing the car) that was out... the middle one looked ok but need a racheting wrench to access it... damn i shouldve gone for the craftsman set this past weekend that included it... oh well imma try to tighten it tonight and pop my craftsmsn toolsets cherry lol thanks guys...

[Ba82Ep3]

No worries. I miss threads using my Droid sometimes. When i get on the PC i just hit "new posts" and i end up missing some...

[AKEP]

i ended up getting the craftsman ratcheting set if you wanna bring it over. that first gearwrench i bought spoiled me so i got the whole set.

[AttarixEp]

Gearwrench is the best for everything Honda with all those tight spots!

[Ba82Ep3]

I love my GearWrenches! I have the angled head with reversible switch and the pivoting head ones too. LOL

[gamma6]

i ended up getting the craftsman ratcheting set if you wanna bring it over. that first gearwrench i bought spoiled me so i got the whole set.

Haha thanks bro i cant really drive it it stalls at lights if i dont rev it...

[AttarixEp]

I got the 8-24mm angled head when they came out. I love them. To be able to set that little angle when you can't get enough ratchet to turn the bolt!

[gamma6]

i finally got around to tightening that bolt finger tight. It was the best i could do without pulling any hoses off and possibly leaking fluid (for one i cant wrench on my car so im breaking the homeowners association rules lol) when i put everything back together i pulled the ecu fuse for a bit and turned the car on...
Still ran like shit. :( cel was gone (cuz of the ecu reset?) and ran it for a few seconds and i turned it off scared of messing things up by letting it run... now i also noticed fuel leaking on my fuel rail connection with the most left injector (facing the car) i checked the clip and it wasnt on right so i fixed that and nothing...

[T_Virus]

I think my answer is totally off but I had the same issues like you too with my k20a3 with bolt ons, no jrsc. misfires and random misfires. if I didn't rev or keep my rpm's high at the stop sign or stop light, it would stall... i did the coil swaps, compression test, swapped the spark plugs with some older ones that I have and it still didn't fix it. Then one day I took it into a shop and all they did was a valve adjustment and it fixed everything. They told me that I barely had any clearance which was causing my engine to misfire. So, if you haven't done so, try looking into that...But it will cost you new valve gaskets so you'll have to buy valve gaskets kit.

[gamma6]

Thanks tou, but its that my fuel rail isnt sitting right and the bolt i tightened by hand wasnt enough, gonna have to tighten it more and hopefully that cures my problems

[AKEP]

why haven't you stopped by yet? im off the next couple days, lets get this put together.

[AKEP]

Problem solved: boost gauge hose rubbed on something and a giant hole was made. replaced section of hose. done.:mangel:

[AttarixEp]

Problem solved: boost gauge hose rubbed on something and a giant hole was made. replaced section of hose. done.:mangel:

Good to hear.