PDA

View Full Version : k24a2 NA with bolt on's; clutch suggestions?



iDom
12-13-2011, 06:17 PM
Everything is coming together, and now I am in the market for a clutch.

I just need to get motor mounts, RBC, and a clutch and Spring of 2012 to finish up this swap and I am timid on making a decision for the clutch..

k24a2 with I/H/E/Kpro Tuned, expecting 210-230 HP? I think that'd be a fair guess/base.

I have looked around and I have searched.. But I intend with just keeping an NA k24a2 setup, so I don't need anything crazy.. What I want is reliability, something that can easily handle the power and also not be a pain in the ass to drive as a DD..

Anybody have any good info? I was thinking a Competition Clutch Stage 1.5/2 with Light/Ultra Light flywheel would be good but I have some questions.. Is that enough? Also, sprung, or unsprung? I know the differences between the two, but what do you guys recommend? Info on the flywheel's would be nice as well. I have heard some people so it's no big deal as a DD, and others say it's a pain the lighter you go..

I would like to get a flywheel/clutch/pressure plate combo all together, can someone point me in the right direction? Oh yea, and I know that it is ideal to get a RSX-S specific flywheel/clutch combo for versatility.
Thanks!

Blah1219
12-13-2011, 06:50 PM
You can always go with a k20a flywheel, they are relatively light, but not ultra light, and its OEM. They run from 150-200. I just couldn't pass up a $50 type s flywheel. I would personally stick with a stage 2 for that torque.

AttarixEp
12-13-2011, 07:02 PM
I used spec stage 2. As well as act stage 2. Handled the 263 tq I had. Not using them anymore. Used them with k20 exedy flywheel.

iDom
12-13-2011, 09:44 PM
Any recommended flywheel weights? Brands? Stages? Sprung/Unsprung?

AttarixEp
12-13-2011, 10:03 PM
Lighter flywheel will rev faster. Sprung will be easier to drive.

lemonhead228
12-14-2011, 08:13 AM
Yea the light flywheel will make your torque numbers go a lil higher

MugenReplica
12-14-2011, 11:47 AM
OEM.

There are a few guys putting out 300whp (obviously boosted) on stock OEM clutches (just PM Illdiesel). Unless you're hard on your clutch, then I would upgrade. Daily duty though for an NA engine.......OEM is 100% fine.

iDom
12-14-2011, 11:53 AM
I just don't wanna drop 600 on a flywheel/clutch combo.. I was thinking a lightly used OEM type-s flywheel, and getting it resurfaced and then a stage 1.5/2 clutch.

EDIT: Oh yea, I wouldn't say i'm hard on the clutch.. I mean, I would just want it to be safe and be there when I wanted to use it though, you know what I mean? I don't plan on putting in a new motor and go from 140hp to 210-230 and just drive it the same. I don't beat the piss outta my stuff, but I definitely would like to enjoy it and take it to the track a few times and not worry about it.

lldiesel386ll
12-14-2011, 09:42 PM
haha thanks john

i am still on the stock clutch at a hair over 100 i think right now? i swapped for the k24/k20 at 29505, and i wanna say at around 70 or 80 i put the blower on. everything is fine and dandy so far :thumbu:

mind you as a contingency i have a stage 4 clutch type r flywheel and a 4.3 final drive waiting around when it fails :mtongue:

iDom
12-20-2011, 09:16 AM
All right, cool. I have about 170,000 miles on my car right now, same original clutch. I think I should replace it though when I put in the new motor.

I think I will do the Stage 2 Comp clutch kit for a RSX-S with the Light Flywheel.. Reason being, the clutch alone, without the flywheel, is only about 100 dollars more. Resurfacing the flywheel for the ep3 will cost about 40-50 dollars, and instead, this way it's a brand new Type-S flywheel with more versatility.. Idk, what do you guys think?

AKEP
01-02-2012, 04:09 AM
oem clutch 300hp here. 20k miles boosted and i think i have a hub failure (first one let go at 95k the same way)

210-230 id get oem type clutch, just stay away from exedy. go comp clutch.

streetlight flywheel.

RhINoX^
01-02-2012, 06:05 AM
^ Why to stay away from exedy ?

AttarixEp
01-02-2012, 07:47 AM
All right, cool. I have about 170,000 miles on my car right now, same original clutch. I think I should replace it though when I put in the new motor.

I think I will do the Stage 2 Comp clutch kit for a RSX-S with the Light Flywheel.. Reason being, the clutch alone, without the flywheel, is only about 100 dollars more. Resurfacing the flywheel for the ep3 will cost about 40-50 dollars, and instead, this way it's a brand new Type-S flywheel with more versatility.. Idk, what do you guys think?

Stage 2 clutch. Type s flywheel.

bchaney
01-02-2012, 12:02 PM
I've got a CC stg2 with typeS fly on my setup. I've heard the lightweight flys rev pretty quick so I wanted to stay away from them for a DD build.

iDom
01-04-2012, 08:03 AM
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/CC-CK-8037-2.html

Think that this is what i'm going to get.

gtolio
01-04-2012, 09:49 AM
I second (3rd or 4th) the OEM option.

I have the stock clutch and flywheel setup still at over 70k miles. I've been boosted and over 300whp for maybe 20k. Mine still feels like the day I got the car.

It has so much more to do with how you drive than anything else. I've seen people blow through stage 2 and 3 clutches at the strip just as easily as a stock setup.

iDom
01-04-2012, 12:35 PM
Well I have never once dropped the clutch, EVER.. Even at the strip, I always just slightly let out of it til I feel the car move then I let it go. My clutch doesn't slip and I don't drive my car hard or anything, but I am rolling on 170k and I would SHOOT myself if I didn't put something new in there and have to drop the trans to do it after the new motor is in.

However, I don't know if it's my clutch or motor mounts or what, but when it rains and I first drive my car, it kinda shakes/shudders.. I don't know how to explain it. Feels almost like wheel hop with the way the car bounces?

gtolio
01-04-2012, 01:16 PM
Well I have never once dropped the clutch, EVER.. Even at the strip, I always just slightly let out of it til I feel the car move then I let it go. My clutch doesn't slip and I don't drive my car hard or anything, but I am rolling on 170k and I would SHOOT myself if I didn't put something new in there and have to drop the trans to do it after the new motor is in.

However, I don't know if it's my clutch or motor mounts or what, but when it rains and I first drive my car, it kinda shakes/shudders.. I don't know how to explain it. Feels almost like wheel hop with the way the car bounces?

Yeah, I hear you. I'd probably do the same if I already had the tranny out.

My 242k mile eg does something very similar to what you're describing. When it's cold and I first drive it, the clutch shudders as I'm letting it out and hit the friction point. If I ride the clutch a little or wait until it warms up, it goes away. I don't know if it's because it's an old clutch and the springs or pressure plate are worn out or what. None of my other cars or anything else I have driven does that.

iDom
01-04-2012, 03:35 PM
Yeah, I hear you. I'd probably do the same if I already had the tranny out.

My 242k mile eg does something very similar to what you're describing. When it's cold and I first drive it, the clutch shudders as I'm letting it out and hit the friction point. If I ride the clutch a little or wait until it warms up, it goes away. I don't know if it's because it's an old clutch and the springs or pressure plate are worn out or what. None of my other cars or anything else I have driven does that.

Yes that's exactly how it is. When it's wet or cold and I first drive it around, I'd say for a few miles or so, it does that. But it goes away until the car sits for a long period of time (hours)

So, I figure what the hell.. I'm just going to go with the 'light' flywheel, and not the 'ultralight'.. I don't know why it reving faster is bad for DD.. I mean, I'm sure it'll take some getting used to, but that's ok.. So will the extra TQ and Power :)

I think I can manage.. Unless it's a bad quality clutch, then that's what I'll probably go with. But for the most part, I don't hear bad things about CC and I know several people that have them and use them with no problem. Oh and the 75A Innovative MM's.

gtolio
01-04-2012, 03:47 PM
Yes that's exactly how it is. When it's wet or cold and I first drive it around, I'd say for a few miles or so, it does that. But it goes away until the car sits for a long period of time (hours)

So, I figure what the hell.. I'm just going to go with the 'light' flywheel, and not the 'ultralight'.. I don't know why it reving faster is bad for DD.. I mean, I'm sure it'll take some getting used to, but that's ok.. So will the extra TQ and Power :)

I think I can manage.. Unless it's a bad quality clutch, then that's what I'll probably go with. But for the most part, I don't hear bad things about CC and I know several people that have them and use them with no problem. Oh and the 75A Innovative MM's.

Let me know when you take it apart what you find. I'd be curious to find out what is wrong with it so I know what it might be on mine.

iDom
01-04-2012, 03:54 PM
Will do. It's not going to be for a while though. It's about 20 degrees here and I don't have access to a heated garage so it won't be until about March/April/May that it all ends up happening.. I have the money for the Mounts and Clutch, but still shopping around for the Engine. I didn't feel a need to tie up money on the Clutch and Mounts since those can be bought any day without having to worry about waiting around for them.. Biggest concern is the Header/Exhaust/Swaybar clearance at this point..

:/

bchaney
01-05-2012, 01:19 PM
Revving quick is annoing when trying to get started in 1st or when downshifting, IMO. The throttle is just real touchy when the clutch pedal is pushed in. Harder to rev match or prevent over-revving from a stop. Maybe just takes some getting used to.

Maybe your clutch is getting wet from water splashing off the road? I was surprised that the clutch area isn't really sealed from below, there's just a small sheetmetal guard. When it's cold I'd imagine that the friction material is less "sticky" so it's more likely to slip.

AttarixEp
01-05-2012, 01:50 PM
Will do. It's not going to be for a while though. It's about 20 degrees here and I don't have access to a heated garage so it won't be until about March/April/May that it all ends up happening.. I have the money for the Mounts and Clutch, but still shopping around for the Engine. I didn't feel a need to tie up money on the Clutch and Mounts since those can be bought any day without having to worry about waiting around for them.. Biggest concern is the Header/Exhaust/Swaybar clearance at this point..

:/

Should come take a look a my setup before I tear it down for the turbo build!

AKEP
01-05-2012, 02:38 PM
^ Why to stay away from exedy ?
because they make the OEM ep clutch. which a lot of people break through hub failure (much sooner than the clutch life would have lasted) i think im about to hit my second hub failure after 20k of boosted k24 on a brand new type s oem clutch. I don't blame it, but i've really been easy on it. i've yet to drop the clutch at all. right now it drives fine but i've already pulled out a couple pieces of metal i heard bouncing around in my clutch housing. just a matter of time.

I've got a CC stg2 with typeS fly on my setup. I've heard the lightweight flys rev pretty quick so I wanted to stay away from them for a DD build.
I DD mine. it's not bad, i don't notice it from stock during DD stop and go. it's def sensitive if your heel-toeing your way back down through the gears. a lot LESS effort.

I second (3rd or 4th) the OEM option.

I have the stock clutch and flywheel setup still at over 70k miles. I've been boosted and over 300whp for maybe 20k. Mine still feels like the day I got the car.

It has so much more to do with how you drive than anything else. I've seen people blow through stage 2 and 3 clutches at the strip just as easily as a stock setup.
this. mine doesn't slip at all, believe it or not. most of us got good clutches from daiken. the rest, not so lucky.


Well I have never once dropped the clutch, EVER.. Even at the strip, I always just slightly let out of it til I feel the car move then I let it go. My clutch doesn't slip and I don't drive my car hard or anything, but I am rolling on 170k and I would SHOOT myself if I didn't put something new in there and have to drop the trans to do it after the new motor is in.

However, I don't know if it's my clutch or motor mounts or what, but when it rains and I first drive my car, it kinda shakes/shudders.. I don't know how to explain it. Feels almost like wheel hop with the way the car bounces?
you should def replace it, god knows how many miles it actually has. im not saying to NOT get an oem clutch, just not from daiken/exedy, else try your luck at a reliable hub.


Yes that's exactly how it is. When it's wet or cold and I first drive it around, I'd say for a few miles or so, it does that. But it goes away until the car sits for a long period of time (hours)

So, I figure what the hell.. I'm just going to go with the 'light' flywheel, and not the 'ultralight'.. I don't know why it reving faster is bad for DD.. I mean, I'm sure it'll take some getting used to, but that's ok.. So will the extra TQ and Power :)

I think I can manage.. Unless it's a bad quality clutch, then that's what I'll probably go with. But for the most part, I don't hear bad things about CC and I know several people that have them and use them with no problem. Oh and the 75A Innovative MM's.

i think it has to do with the pressure plate or warped surfaces. my ranger had this same problem untill it too, suffered from a hub failure driving down a mountain. (just my luck) had a burnt up flywheel and pressure plate. 115k on it.

also, if my friends asked me about which flywheel to pick, i wouldn't hesitate to tell them to get a prolite (8.8lbs). the only "adverse" effects is it might kill the motor if ac compressor is on after a fresh ecu start (erased through power loss) - otherwise, it feels normal to me. my noob driver wife can't tell the difference.

iDom
01-06-2012, 06:27 AM
I appreciate all the input guys, but yes I definitely am going to pick up those motor mounts and that CC Stage 2 clutch combo for an RSX-S when I get my tax return money.

AttarixEp- That doesn't half bad. It will be a while for me though before I put everything in, I need some warmth haha. Perhaps sometime in middle spring.

AttarixEp
01-06-2012, 09:42 AM
I appreciate all the input guys, but yes I definitely am going to pick up those motor mounts and that CC Stage 2 clutch combo for an RSX-S when I get my tax return money.

AttarixEp- That doesn't half bad. It will be a while for me though before I put everything in, I need some warmth haha. Perhaps sometime in middle spring.

When my JRSC sells I will be pulling the motor so I can get the head shipped to SM for machining!

iDom
01-08-2012, 11:51 AM
When my JRSC sells I will be pulling the motor so I can get the head shipped to SM for machining!

Yea that's who is going to be tuning my car for me once I get everything done. Looking forward to it for sure.

AttarixEp
01-08-2012, 02:21 PM
Yea that's who is going to be tuning my car for me once I get everything done. Looking forward to it for sure.

Awesome! Can't wait to see it start coming together.