weight reduction?

[1fasthb]

is there any write up's on this saying how much each thing weigh's and the total weight lost at the end from removing certain thing's looking to put my ep on a diet soon :D thanks for any help

[makavelibranded]

Import Tuner did a great article on this.

http://www.importtuner.com/features/0407it_weight_reduction_tips/index.html

[Hasbro]

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/search.php?searchid=614719&pp=&page=2

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=694887

[Blah1219]

Stage 1 of weight reduction would be removing the brake system that will do the job! I am not reliable for any of my thoughts.

[fdnyjon]

Good info :)

[tinman5]

Take your car to a truck stop and put her on the scale. Price varies from $5 to $10 or free with a minimum purchase of fifty gallons of fuel.
Weigh the car with either a full tank or (realistically) a half tank, and be consistent with fuel level on subsequent weigh ins. You will be surprised at how much the car actually weighs or how little the weight is gonna change.
You want to either lighten the upper half OR bring the weight down and back. Preferably within the suspension square. Believe it or not, there is a wrong way to lighten a car.

[fdnyjon]

Take your car to a truck stop and put her on the scale. Price varies from $5 to $10 or free with a minimum purchase of fifty gallons of fuel.
Weigh the car with either a full tank or (realistically) a half tank, and be consistent with fuel level on subsequent weigh ins. You will be surprised at how much the car actually weighs or how little the weight is gonna change.
You want to either lighten the upper half OR bring the weight down and back. Preferably within the suspension square. Believe it or not, there is a wrong way to lighten a car.


Your saying to put more weight towards the rear correct? For example relocating the battery to the hatch?

[ep3k20]

Remove spare tire, Jack, and sound deadening. Rear wiper assembly, rear seats a/c and all a/c components...right there well over 250 lbs. I know when I took out just the spare and sound deadening etc bs I put it on the scale and lost 112lbs the other shit def weighs hundred pounds together. What are you trying to do eith the car tho? Is this realistic for a DD?

[tinman5]

Your saying to put more weight towards the rear correct? For example relocating the battery to the hatch?

Sort of. You want to end up with battery at the passenger side rear seat area. Low and rearward center to the passenger side so as to help offset your weight. You want to reduce as much weight from outside the suspension square (that would be the four points inside your front and rear shocks/struts)
When you look at an EP, a couple things are obvious. I think we can all agree the EP is tall and kind of narrow. Thats not so good. The wheels are set pretty close to the corners, thats a good a thing. If you are at least at an intermediate driving skill, you can probably max out the chassis on stock components at around the 4/10 to 5/10's range. Thats bad, however the chassis itself is pretty damn solid. The problem is the crappy stock syspension, crappier stock brakes, crappierest stock tires. These things are horrid. Replace these things though and I can now keep up in the twisties with a near stock 350z driving primarily grip on a tight technical hillside. This with an A2 swap with lightened flywheel, pullies, bolt ons and 93 octane tune.

At this stage I am now interested in more raw power (torque) to maximize gear selection on the six speed, and solidifying the chassis a bit. I am not going to go to the extremes that I have used in other cars, but some of what has been done to my S13 will definitely be implemented. Structural foam in the pillars, welding in a few gussets here and there as well as some chassis cuts off a donor. The lower door sill and floor pan can be significantly strengthened with some well thought out welding and sheet metal additions. I could probably strip a clean 270lbs or so but add an addition 150lbs. May not seem like a worthwhile trade off, but by strengthening the chassis you up the cars ability to handle more power.

[fdnyjon]

Sort of. You want to end up with battery at the passenger side rear seat area. Low and rearward center to the passenger side so as to help offset your weight. You want to reduce as much weight from outside the suspension square (that would be the four points inside your front and rear shocks/struts)
When you look at an EP, a couple things are obvious. I think we can all agree the EP is tall and kind of narrow. Thats not so good. The wheels are set pretty close to the corners, thats a good a thing. If you are at least at an intermediate driving skill, you can probably max out the chassis on stock components at around the 4/10 to 5/10's range. Thats bad, however the chassis itself is pretty damn solid. The problem is the crappy stock syspension, crappier stock brakes, crappierest stock tires. These things are horrid. Replace these things though and I can now keep up in the twisties with a near stock 350z driving primarily grip on a tight technical hillside. This with an A2 swap with lightened flywheel, pullies, bolt ons and 93 octane tune.

At this stage I am now interested in more raw power (torque) to maximize gear selection on the six speed, and solidifying the chassis a bit. I am not going to go to the extremes that I have used in other cars, but some of what has been done to my S13 will definitely be implemented. Structural foam in the pillars, welding in a few gussets here and there as well as some chassis cuts off a donor. The lower door sill and floor pan can be significantly strengthened with some well thought out welding and sheet metal additions. I could probably strip a clean 270lbs or so but add an addition 150lbs. May not seem like a worthwhile trade off, but by strengthening the chassis you up the cars ability to handle more power.

Ok sounds good. I will be relocating the battery to the rear soon. I was also thinking about getting a Carbon fiber hatch but then wont be so good right because it will be too light towards the rear?

Thanks for all the input!

[Powers]

Ok sounds good. I will be relocating the battery to the rear soon. I was also thinking about getting a Carbon fiber hatch but then wont be so good right because it will be too light towards the rear?

Thanks for all the input!

Get a carbon hatch and carbon hood then it would be equaled out more.

[fdnyjon]

Get a carbon hatch and carbon hood then it would be equaled out more.


Yea or that! lol but if u just get a carbon hatch then it wouldnt be so good weight ratio wise..

[sistealth02]

The problem is the crappy stock syspension, crappier stock brakes, crappierest stock tires. These things are horrid.

I lol'd.

[tinman5]

I lol'd.

I LOL'ed the first time I took her out to see how the new chassis compared to the older ones. In a perfect world I would have an EG or EK, but unfortunately, peoples dont know how to act and either of those would last all of a month before getting jacked.

Another thing to consider, as nice as carbon fiber is, glass is heavier than sheet metal. The fishbowl and sunroof are also above the mid-section of the car. Lexan or acrylic would be nice.

[Hasbro]

There are several good weight reduction threads here and elswhere.

[fdnyjon]

Import Tuner did a great article on this.

http://www.importtuner.com/features/0407it_weight_reduction_tips/index.html

Real good stuff. I thought the stock flywheel was like 20 pounds though? Oh well