Ok... Seriously wtf!

[imhotep]

I had p1106 code forever now.... been driving dirty and unregistered for months now because i can't pass emissions, and my money is tight because im on unemployment. Long story short i finally got some money to buy a new ECU ( $500) at the stealership.

I swapped it in their parking lot by myself, then paid them 100 bucks so those assholes can program it.

needless to say the CEL turned back on, and p1106 is in full effect again. At this point i am lost, i have no idea what to do.... im am very frustrated.

I swapped map sensor, and o2 primary sensor, which ran me about 200 bucks on parts, so right now i spent $800 bucks just on parts trying to get rid of this bullshit ass CEL. WHAT DO I DO NOW?

[Pronto]

How's the car idleing?
If its higher than 1k and uneven revs could be the IACV.

[imhotep]

ya it idles well over 1 k,

idles about 2k on initial start, about 1300-1500 after its warmed up

[27rocks]

Engine bay fuse box!! Unplug the 15A fuse that says ECU and it will re-set everything. You can at least try that to clear the cell and get your car passed.

[Pronto]

Unless its jumping between 1300 - 1500 when just idleing, doesn't sound like the IACV. But it is idleing a bit high.... probably a good idea to clean your IACV and do an Idle Relearn.

[imhotep]

Unless its jumping between 1300 - 1500 when just idleing, doesn't sound like the IACV. But it is idleing a bit high.... probably a good idea to clean your IACV and do an Idle Relearn.

u can hear the engine rev up and down slightly, but its so slightly the rpm indicator barely shows the arm moving even 500rpms up and down


Engine bay fuse box!! Unplug the 15A fuse that says ECU and it will re-set everything. You can at least try that to clear the cell and get your car passed.

i already tried that twice, i clear the CEL and by the time i drive to the emissions place it turns on in their garage while they are testing.....

plus i want to get my normal gas mileage, right now i'll be lucky to average 25 mpg highway

[imhotep]

can i at least return the ecu i bought from the stealership? obviously its not a problem with the baro sensor, so mite as well get my $500 back...

and is there some way i can activate the ecu myself so i dont have to pay them another 100 bucks to activate this piece of shit?

[imhotep]

ok guys,

i just took off the throttle body and the IACV, on my way to buy some non-chlorinated break cleaner according to this archived DIY i found

http://forums.clubrsx.com/archive/index.php/t-288936.html

Also, when i took off my TB, it had some black oily gunk shit from the inside... should i use that brake cleaner to clean that shit off? or is that greasy black shit supposed to be there for lubrication purposes?

Looking into the hole of the intake manifold, that shit looks dirty also, can i wipe that shit off with paper towls? or do i spray that shit with cleaner too?

[Red_liner740]

thats your oil vapor build up from your Crankcase breather....clean it all up.

[AKEP]

spray with cleaner. clean that shit! theres supposed to be some black stuff but its painted on around the edge to seal it. the dusty/oily stuff is from the valve cover breather, the rare instances it spits out oil, it ends up on the tb. clean that off.

Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance - check the harness around the throttle body would be my guess. if you've changed the sensors already i'd see if you can trade honda for a new engine wire harness, or a salvage yard.

[imhotep]

thats your oil vapor build up from your Crankcase breather....clean it all up.


spray with cleaner. clean that shit! theres supposed to be some black stuff but its painted on around the edge to seal it. the dusty/oily stuff is from the valve cover breather, the rare instances it spits out oil, it ends up on the tb. clean that off.

Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance - check the harness around the throttle body would be my guess. if you've changed the sensors already i'd see if you can trade honda for a new engine wire harness, or a salvage yard.


all that black shit needs to be gone completely right?
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/142/92149889.jpg

[AKEP]

just what you can scrub off with some cleaner. like i said theres some black stuff thats painted on from factory thats there to make it seal better, that stuff stays.

[USAF EP3]

Save your extra ECU. That way when you ever get enough cash for Kpro, you will have one running your car and one to send off to Hondata!!

[imhotep]

Engine bay fuse box!! Unplug the 15A fuse that says ECU and it will re-set everything. You can at least try that to clear the cell and get your car passed.

just leave it unplugged or plug it back in?

because i been clearing the ECM with the obd scanner because it has a function to do so, so by the time i got to the testing place the ECM would run all the tests and pop the CEL light with the code

[imhotep]

update guys!!

Well i cleaned the TB and the IACV out, put it back on, turned on my car and has crazy idles jumping from 0-1200rpms, sounded like my car would stall every time the rpms hit near 0.

So i did that idle relearn thing. Reset my ECU, held at 3k rps until fan turned on, then let it idle for 5 mins. At first when i let go of accelerator, it idled at 900rpms, then it slowly climbed to a constant 1400rpm idle by the time 5 minutes were up.

Pretty much back to square one, did all that work for no reason.

i'm honestly crushed.... i have no fucking clue on whats going on. Should have just paid the mechanic the 1000 he was asking for, now im already 800 in the hole, 200 dollars off from his asking price, but i went absolutely no where.

[sippyyy]

I'm just curious for my own sake, what step in the troubleshooting brought you to buy a new ECU?

[imhotep]

I'm just curious for my own sake, what step in the troubleshooting brought you to buy a new ECU?


well i been googling like a maniac, and i found plenty of people with this problem, but no real solutions aside from people saying

"the baro sensor is soldered onto the ECU PCB itself, so if thats faulty, the only way to replace it is to replace the ECU"
so obviously thats what i did, but p1106 popped back up, so obviously my baro sensor ON THE ECU is fine. That code is the bane of my existence right now. I honestly feel like shooting my car with a fucking rpg at this point. I'm so annoyed by that code, spent countless hour searching google for a cure...

but in the end, all i came up with is a bunch of people with the same problem as me, but no one provides a known fix for the issue.

[SkareKrow]

well i been googling like a maniac, and i found plenty of people with this problem, but no real solutions aside from people saying

"the baro sensor is soldered onto the ECU PCB itself, so if thats faulty, the only way to replace it is to replace the ECU"
so obviously thats what i did, but p1106 popped back up, so obviously my baro sensor ON THE ECU is fine. That code is the bane of my existence right now. I honestly feel like shooting my car with a fucking rpg at this point. I'm so annoyed by that code, spent countless hour searching google for a cure...

but in the end, all i came up with is a bunch of people with the same problem as me, but no one provides a known fix for the issue.

bump for someone that can help you out more. I feel you on the frustration.

Sent from my PC36100 using Xparent Red Tapatalk

[theMan_ny]

The IAC Valve needs to be fully dry. I would return the ECU and pay to get you passed. That's what I would do, at least you'll pass and then you can figure out the problem later.

[AKEP]

if you have a multimeter/dvom you should really check out the helms manual and pin out the harness for the map sensor. if you swapped ecus and still have the baro code i'd def have to say check out the wire hareness, maybe it got pinched somewhere and is shorting out or melted or something. put a vacuum gauge on the brake booster and see what its pulling, if its not below -20"/hg try spraying brake cleaner around the manifold, maybe you have a leak or a crusty hose thats leaking. a high idle/drivability/partial throttle issue is usually the fault of a vac leak somewhere, or the MAP circuit is busted somehow.

also, there are 2 plugs that are blue and fit the MAP sensor and soemthing else down by the throttle body, make sure those aren't mismatched, that could also be the problem. they share the same branch or harness right there and could easily be switched around.

[imhotep]

the MAP sensor aint the problem because i was getting a code for that and the o2 as well. I swapped o2, and MAP and those codes went away, its this p1106 thats like a little fucking cockroach that just wont go away.

And this is my idle, i juts made this video like 15 minutes ago on my android


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_nOln2vj4tA&feature=youtu.be

[AKEP]

it doesn't have to be the actual sensor. it could be the wires (tight pinches cause resistance or cut the circuit). or you have the wires switched around. or a vac leak.

[imhotep]

it doesn't have to be the actual sensor. it could be the wires (tight pinches cause resistance or cut the circuit). or you have the wires switched around. or a vac leak.

How would i be able to spot the VAC leak?

[AKEP]

listen for it, sounds like a hiss. if you can't determine if its leaking then spray some brake cleaner around the manifold, throttle body, and vac hoses, theres only like 3 hoses, brake booster, passenger side pcv, and thermal bypass. i guess the evap too but it has a solenoid that seals it from the manifold when its closed. make sure your brake booster is holding vacuum too.

[preludeh22vtec]

I had a intake manifold gasket leak on an H22 once. The idle speed kept going up and up till I could not adjust it lower than 2000rpm. I sprayed the whole manifold with throttle body cleaner until I found a spot that changed the idle speed, this showed me that there was a leak in the gasket.

So it could be a gasket, a crack in the manifold, or maybe just a loose vacuum line somewhere.

[BeaterEP]

I'm guessing that there's a vac leak at the moment, only because the bouncing idle started AFTER OP put the throttle body and IACV back on. Pull those, make sure they're sealed up right, and then address the original code.

[Siborg]

Here in Seattle after you have shown proof of spending $150 or more trying to fix the problem, they will pass you. My odyssey has a bad 02 sensor and cat, instead of spending like $500-600 buck on those, I spent $150 on a"fuel system flush" from a shop, went to emissions and done....

[imhotep]

Here in Seattle after you have shown proof of spending $150 or more trying to fix the problem, they will pass you. My odyssey has a bad 02 sensor and cat, instead of spending like $500-600 buck on those, I spent $150 on a"fuel system flush" from a shop, went to emissions and done....


i spent 900 on parts, diagnostics, and ECU programming..... but in Connecticut u have to show proof that u spent over 750 bucks on repairs in SPECIFIC qualified repair shop, only than can you get an exemption.

[imhotep]

ANOTHER UPDATE GUYS!

Well since i was pretty frustrated, i said fuck it, and went to the dealership so they can do the diagnostic on my car for the 100 bucks that they charge.

Well it turns out.....


that they have no idea what to do, they said its like shooting in the dark and are completely clueless, so they were nice enough to not charge me the 100 bucks for their 1 hour diagnosis. LMAO

This is so fucked up, i officially accepted that p1106 is un-fixable, at least in my case, and that i will never pass emission with this car. LOL!

[Guardian]

might be tps, see if you have a buddy that will let you swap out tb. (it will take longer to swap the sensor)

[ep3k20]

i say its probably the tps sensor. they can make your rpms go ape shit if they are faulty. had several members here with similar problems in the past and that was the remedy. like my dad always said ''start with the easy cheap shit before you assume its the hard expensive shit cause chances are the cheap shit breaks sooner" ...damn straight pops



edit: just noticed scott said the same thing...son of a

[StockTexasEP3]

Related problem: When I first start my car, it idles at about 1500 rpm. After a few minutes of driving, it seems to drop down to about 800 - 1000 rpm and stay there. Is this normal? Sometimes my gears grind when I start the car in cold weather (alternator I think) and I have a CEL for a bad 02 sensor. Any ideas? Can someone tell me more about the idle relearn.

[BeaterEP]

Related problem: When I first start my car, it idles at about 1500 rpm. After a few minutes of driving, it seems to drop down to about 800 - 1000 rpm and stay there. Is this normal? Sometimes my gears grind when I start the car in cold weather (alternator I think) and I have a CEL for a bad 02 sensor. Any ideas? Can someone tell me more about the idle relearn.

Let's take this in order:

It's normal for the car to idle at higher RPMs until it warms up, then settle into its normal idle range (usually around 750-800 RPMs). Nothing to worry about here.
The grinding sound in cold weather is your starter, likely due to a bad ground connection. Fairly common with our chassis, as well as the RSX. Relatively simple fix if you're somewhat comfortable mechanically and can splice a new terminal onto a wire.
CEL for a bad O2 sensor is...a CEL for a bad O2 sensor. Replace it, no more CEL.
Not to be rude, but your issues have nada to do with the OP's. That's good though! Your issues are non-issues or an easy fix! :thumbu:

[StockTexasEP3]

Let's take this in order:

It's normal for the car to idle at higher RPMs until it warms up, then settle into its normal idle range (usually around 750-800 RPMs). Nothing to worry about here.
The grinding sound in cold weather is your starter, likely due to a bad ground connection. Fairly common with our chassis, as well as the RSX. Relatively simple fix if you're somewhat comfortable mechanically and can splice a new terminal onto a wire.
CEL for a bad O2 sensor is...a CEL for a bad O2 sensor. Replace it, no more CEL.
Not to be rude, but your issues have nada to do with the OP's. That's good though! Your issues are non-issues or an easy fix! :thumbu:

Thanks dude.

[imhotep]

dont i have to buy like the whole TB, because they dont sell the goddamn TPS separately? Lmao, some straight up horse shit

[Guardian]

dont i have to buy like the whole TB, because they dont sell the goddamn TPS separately? Lmao, some straight up horse shit

You can buy an aftermarket one. Cut slots in in bolts to remove oem tps with a flat head

[SkareKrow]

You can buy an aftermarket one. Cut slots in in bolts to remove oem tps with a flat head

Just reverse drill it LOL. Thats what I did with my walnuts rpms. then bought myself a straight sexy hybrid racing tps. :-D.

Just a second opinion. Take Scotts lol. Mine can destroy other stuff if you slip :-D
So. +1 to.scott :smile:

Sent from my PC36100 using Xparent Red Tapatalk

[BeaterEP]

Thanks dude.

:thumbu: No problem man! Figured it would suck for you to run down a long, crappy path when those should all be simple fixes for ya!

[imhotep]

You can buy an aftermarket one. Cut slots in in bolts to remove oem tps with a flat head


so the TPS has something in common with the Baro sensor?