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egul44
03-16-2012, 10:25 AM
No way

Falke401
03-16-2012, 11:12 AM
I disagree with 1, 3, 5, and 8.

1. Wouldnt you waste gas by sitting letting it warm up? 0 mph = 0 mpg.
3. Our cars seem to like a little higher rpm when shifting. Around 3K or so. Lugging is not good for these K20's.
5. You will probably get a little better fuel economy going a little over spec. Less rolling resistance.
8. Studies have shown that you get better gas mileage if you DONT use cruise, especially in hilly areas, but you need to have a very steady foot.

Just my 2 cents.

egul44
03-16-2012, 11:50 AM
I disagree with 1, 3, 5, and 8.

1. Wouldnt you waste gas by sitting letting it warm up? 0 mph = 0 mpg.
3. Our cars seem to like a little higher rpm when shifting. Around 3K or so. Lugging is not good for these K20's.
5. You will probably get a little better fuel economy going a little over spec. Less rolling resistance.
8. Studies have shown that you get better gas mileage if you DONT use cruise, especially in hilly areas, but you need to have a very steady foot.

Just my 2 cents.

1. I didnt say you wouldnt. You would but less than driving car in traffic with cold engine.
2. Yes that right for K20. But we have k20a3 which doesnt like high RPMs as k20. (Also shifting in between 2,5k 3k is not lugging if you are not going uphill )
5. Engineers gives us best numbers for car handling safety and fuel economy. I agree, little over spec can give you less rolling resistance. But You dont want to give from your safety for fuel economy.
8. Right, Because U adjust your speed let say 50, when you come to hilly area you car would use much power to reach 50 on hill. When going on straight road it`s better to use cruise.

Red_liner740
03-16-2012, 07:25 PM
Dude, you're wrong on so many points that i have to view your entire post as invalid.

first of all, i consider myself a hypermiller. I regularly get 25 to 50% higher MPG's than EPA averages. I use the "advanced" techniques and always drive with MPG's in mind, so lets start by debunking some of your points.

1. Start driving within 30 seconds, nice and easy. Engine will heat up faster and the entire drivetrain will get to operating temps together. Nothing worse than people who think their engine is nice and toasty but their wheelbearings are still stiff, the transmission is still cold, suspension is still cold etc etc.
2. It has been proven that accelerating slowly is actually NOT good for your MPG's. A car engine is most efficient when it can properly burn all the available fuel AND not have to fight the pumping losses of near closed throttle body. Ever hear of BSFC? Every engine has a Brake Specific Fuel Consumption which shows the optimal fuel burn of the engine....its usually at 80% engine load and in the peak torque number area. For the K20a3 its between 2500 and 3500. Usually the best optimal fuel burn and consumption is right before the ECU switches to open loop and starts reading fuel trims off the map and ignoring the O2 sensor. So a hard brisk acceleration is better than a slow dragged out one. If you dont trust me just go and google "Pulse and glide" on any of the hypermilling forums.
3. Correct
4. Correct, the best MPGs are in the top gear at around 80km/h at which point the wind resistance starts to become detrimental
5. "factory spec" is a compromise between road feel, comfort and driveability. I set my tires to max pressure presented on the sidewall. 50psi. Again, this has been proven to not be dangerous and it will not wear out your tire in the center. I have over 40K on my car tires at this PSI and they never wore differently than at lower psi. Again, google it on hypermilling forums if you dont believe me. You do get a stiffer ride and tires tend to not give as nice road feel as lower psi, but that is something you have to decide on your priorities.
6. Correct.
7. Depends on the driving style but usually yes. if you do a lot of highway driving and pulse and glide than a higher weight will give you longer glides due to higher inertia.
8. Only on flat terrain. Even on mildly hilly driving i can beat the cruisecontrol by 4 to 5mpg's
9. ALWAYS shift into neutral going downhill. Engine breaking may activate the fuel cutoff, but you are closing the throttle plate basically creating a vacuum pump out of the engine. those huge pumping losses is what is called engine breaking. You will coast a LOT longer in neutral than with engine breaking. Only time you should engine break is if you know you will have to slow down or stop.
10. You should never tail gate period. The rule of hypermilling is to drive like you have no brakes. If i see a light counting down to Red and i know i wont make it, i put it neutral and coast, if i see that if i accelerate i can make it through i do. That short burst of acceleration will eat more gas but not as much gas as idling and consequent acceleration back up to speed.
11. AC usage depends on the car. Smaller engined cars i agree, but you dont even have to open the windows. Set the temp switch to cold, but not AC, and turn on your fan on low. you will get a nice fresh breeze without using the AC or disturbing the aerodynamics of the car.

To add some points. Lowering the car helps with aerodrag. Wheelwells are a large area of disturbance and getting rid of them helps, it also forces less air to go under the car where its very turbulent. Undercar skid plate running the leght of the car helps as well, a front lip to divert more air to the side and over the car helps as well, side skirts help to keep air from being sucked under the car as well. If you wanna go nuts, mooncaps on the wheels remove even more drag, as well as removing sideview mirror on the pass side and adding a cam back...(google it, and thats getting EXTREME! lol)



How to save on Gas. Lesson: GAS101.

1. Always heat up your engine before going out.
2. Avoid hard acceleration and hard braking. ( Drive Sensibly )
3. Shift in low RPMs and Drive in High gears as much as you can. ( Higher RPMs = MORE GAS )
4. Avoid High Speeds. ( Most of us have 5 Gear, so that`s not that easy. Even you go with 80 Mile, RPM will be between 3000/3500 ) F.CK 5 Gear, I hate it.
5. Check your tire pressure, always use factory spec.
6. Check your oil and always change it on time.
7. Reduce weight in your trunk.
8. Use Cruise Control. Maintain your speed.

Never

1. Don`t Shift in neutral when going from downhill. Always leave it in gear.
2. Don`t tailgate, leave enough space so you don`t have to stop and accelerate. Remember car uses so much gas when accelerating.
3. Never open your windows on highway. Its much better to use A/C on highway.
4. Never drive your car in low fuel level.

I fckn hate 5 gear. You can`t even go with 90. RPM comes to almost 4,000. I really cant get good mileage on highway. I feel like grandma when going with 60.

Gold rule:
''SPEED IS ALWAYS EXPENSIVE.''

EP3Lov3
03-29-2012, 12:07 PM
Best way to save on gas? Don't drive =)

DRP967
03-30-2012, 11:28 AM
Thanks red_liner740, appreciate all the good information.

While I am concerned about conserving fuel, I still like to have fun so 90% of the time I drive civilized, 10% of the time I go WOT.

Will take these tips to heart.

15000rpms
04-12-2012, 05:33 AM
does running lean help save gas?

how about increasing fuel pressure?

MIGEEZY
04-12-2012, 09:11 AM
9. Sell EP, get bicycle.

iDom
04-12-2012, 11:54 AM
How to save on Gas. Lesson: GAS101.

1. Always heat up your engine before going out.
2. Avoid hard acceleration and hard braking. ( Drive Sensibly )
3. Shift in low RPMs and Drive in High gears as much as you can. ( Higher RPMs = MORE GAS )
4. Avoid High Speeds. ( Most of us have 5 Gear, so that`s not that easy. Even you go with 80 Mile, RPM will be between 3000/3500 ) F.CK 5 Gear, I hate it.
5. Check your tire pressure, always use factory spec.
6. Check your oil and always change it on time.
7. Reduce weight in your trunk.
8. Use Cruise Control. Maintain your speed.

Never

1. Don`t Shift in neutral when going from downhill. Always leave it in gear.
2. Don`t tailgate, leave enough space so you don`t have to stop and accelerate. Remember car uses so much gas when accelerating.
3. Never open your windows on highway. Its much better to use A/C on highway.
4. Never drive your car in low fuel level.

I fckn hate 5 gear. You can`t even go with 90. RPM comes to almost 4,000. I really cant get good mileage on highway. I feel like grandma when going with 60.

Gold rule:
''SPEED IS ALWAYS EXPENSIVE.''

revised

How to save on Gas. Lesson: GAS101.

1. Purchase Scooter
2. Turn Scooter off at red lights
3. Do not accelerate Scooter too briskly
4. Shut off scooter and coast .5 miles per 2 miles driven
5. Check your tire pressure, always use factory spec
6. Check your oil and always change it on time
7. Reduce weight in your trunk (remove it)
8. Use gasoline mixed with Bacardi 151

Never

1. NEVER SELL SCOOTER
2. Never take your overweight girlfriend to McDonalds, Scooters struggle when adding an additional 250 pounds
3. Tuck your head down and become as aero as possible
4. Never drive your scooter on low gas/Bacardi cocktail

I fckn hate 5th gear, that's why my scooter has a CVT style transmission

Gold rule:
''SPEED IS FOR RICERS''

gtolio
04-12-2012, 12:28 PM
lol... I'd buy a Ruckus if I didn't have to drive on the highway to work.

MugenReplica
04-12-2012, 04:55 PM
Dude, you're wrong on so many points that i have to view your entire post as invalid.

first of all, i consider myself a hypermiller. I regularly get 25 to 50% higher MPG's than EPA averages. I use the "advanced" techniques and always drive with MPG's in mind, so lets start by debunking some of your points.

1. Start driving within 30 seconds, nice and easy. Engine will heat up faster and the entire drivetrain will get to operating temps together. Nothing worse than people who think their engine is nice and toasty but their wheelbearings are still stiff, the transmission is still cold, suspension is still cold etc etc.
2. It has been proven that accelerating slowly is actually NOT good for your MPG's. A car engine is most efficient when it can properly burn all the available fuel AND not have to fight the pumping losses of near closed throttle body. Ever hear of BSFC? Every engine has a Brake Specific Fuel Consumption which shows the optimal fuel burn of the engine....its usually at 80% engine load and in the peak torque number area. For the K20a3 its between 2500 and 3500. Usually the best optimal fuel burn and consumption is right before the ECU switches to open loop and starts reading fuel trims off the map and ignoring the O2 sensor. So a hard brisk acceleration is better than a slow dragged out one. If you dont trust me just go and google "Pulse and glide" on any of the hypermilling forums.
3. Correct
4. Correct, the best MPGs are in the top gear at around 80km/h at which point the wind resistance starts to become detrimental
5. "factory spec" is a compromise between road feel, comfort and driveability. I set my tires to max pressure presented on the sidewall. 50psi. Again, this has been proven to not be dangerous and it will not wear out your tire in the center. I have over 40K on my car tires at this PSI and they never wore differently than at lower psi. Again, google it on hypermilling forums if you dont believe me. You do get a stiffer ride and tires tend to not give as nice road feel as lower psi, but that is something you have to decide on your priorities.
6. Correct.
7. Depends on the driving style but usually yes. if you do a lot of highway driving and pulse and glide than a higher weight will give you longer glides due to higher inertia.
8. Only on flat terrain. Even on mildly hilly driving i can beat the cruisecontrol by 4 to 5mpg's
9. ALWAYS shift into neutral going downhill. Engine breaking may activate the fuel cutoff, but you are closing the throttle plate basically creating a vacuum pump out of the engine. those huge pumping losses is what is called engine breaking. You will coast a LOT longer in neutral than with engine breaking. Only time you should engine break is if you know you will have to slow down or stop.
10. You should never tail gate period. The rule of hypermilling is to drive like you have no brakes. If i see a light counting down to Red and i know i wont make it, i put it neutral and coast, if i see that if i accelerate i can make it through i do. That short burst of acceleration will eat more gas but not as much gas as idling and consequent acceleration back up to speed.
11. AC usage depends on the car. Smaller engined cars i agree, but you dont even have to open the windows. Set the temp switch to cold, but not AC, and turn on your fan on low. you will get a nice fresh breeze without using the AC or disturbing the aerodynamics of the car.

To add some points. Lowering the car helps with aerodrag. Wheelwells are a large area of disturbance and getting rid of them helps, it also forces less air to go under the car where its very turbulent. Undercar skid plate running the leght of the car helps as well, a front lip to divert more air to the side and over the car helps as well, side skirts help to keep air from being sucked under the car as well. If you wanna go nuts, mooncaps on the wheels remove even more drag, as well as removing sideview mirror on the pass side and adding a cam back...(google it, and thats getting EXTREME! lol)

Please post this in a seperate thread and I will sticky it as I experience similar circumstances with similar driving to PA (3 hour drive one way) every week.

m3nace
08-13-2014, 01:27 PM
Save gas money: wake up early take the bus and hitch a ride with homies