Just bought stage 2 cams

[Reaper27]

Ok guys, I just picked up a brand new set of skunk2 stage 2 cams at a great price and now I need to know, can I run them with a stock valvetrain? If not what do I need to upgrade and upgrade it to?

[Blah1219]

Springs/ retainers and a timing chain tensioner would be nice. You could get a k24a1 head and get it rebuilt with new valve seals. But they only really recommend doing springs and retainers. You might as well rebuild a head and do a head swap.

[Reaper27]

Would the A3 block be able to handle it? I plan on supercharging down the road. Where would I find a k24a1 head for a decesent price? Also would I need stock sized valves with reg compression or with higher compression? Also would I still have VTEC or would I loose it?

[Blah1219]

Would the A3 block be able to handle it? I plan on supercharging down the road. Where would I find a k24a1 head for a decesent price? Also would I need stock sized valves with reg compression or with higher compression? Also would I still have VTEC or would I loose it?

The k20a3 block can handle 300 whp till the rods start to cry.

So you could run a supercharger just fine on stage 2 cams without having to worry about the block blowing up.

Just lurk around on here and k20a.org and crsx. Thanks to Dave on here, he sold me a clean head with valve train ,for 100.

Don't worry about the valves unless its your last resort to squeeze every little pony in, but that's not for your application. You can bump the compression by getting flat faced valves though.

With those cams you will still have the 2200 rpm crossover. I wouldn't call it vtec.

[Reaper27]

I only plan on getting about 250-275 whp out of the a3 block when I'm done with it. I'll prob do an engine swap down the road but that will be awhile. Haha, I know it's really VTEC but what little bit it is I was just wondering. But with the valves do I need to replace them or can I run stock and just do the retainers and springs?

[civsirmt]

just retainers and springs+tune u will be fine until the supercharger

[Reaper27]

Ok, so after I get the SC do I need to upgrade the valves? And if so to what?

[Ba82Ep3]

No need to upgrade the valves unless you are going for an all out NA build with high compression or a lot of boost.

[Ba82Ep3]

Oh, and as mentioned DEFINITELY buy a new timing chain tensioner. Just get an OE tensioner and plan to check it every 30k or so for wear and spring weakness. Its also good to start off with a new timing chain.

[RHCP0801]

I made the wrong choice of not changing my tensioner and chain, so do it the right way and get a new chain and hybrid racing tensioner

[bluedemonep3]

Also would I still have VTEC or would I loose it?

we never had VTEC:mrolleyes:, so in reality your not loosing it lol. GL with the build, im planning on upgrading soon too

[MugenReplica]

Whatever you do, don't bother paying over $150 for the K24a1 head. The guys asking $250 + shipping are dreaming (back in 2006 I picked up 3 K24a1 head for under $150 each + shipping).

You can go to car-parts.com and find a high mileage K24a1 for under $500 + shipping. Their heads will be perfectly fine and you have some spare engine parts to boot.

You won't get enough NA power (even forced you're limited by the 300whp out of the K20a3 rods) out of the swap to justify the $250+shipping+head gasket+timing chain+tensioner+odds/ends to make it worthwhile. Just get a "chunky tensioner", new chain, S2000/K20a2/K24a2/K20z1/K20z3 springs, retainers, and seats and you'll be good to go with the K20a3.

[Reaper27]

So your saying that it would be better to just swap out the current valvetrain with a k20a2 spec valvetrain (springs, seats, retainers, etc) than get the k24a1 head to swap on? Also would it better to get like a hybrid racing or skunk2 tensioner and a TODA chain or would OEM be ok but just new? And how do you check everything? I'm new to the advanced engine aspect of things. Also would changing out the rods in the block to some eagle rods but a good idea or would that be pointless?

[RHCP0801]

oem chain and hybrid racing tensioner

[MugenReplica]

So your saying that it would be better to just swap out the current valvetrain with a k20a2 spec valvetrain (springs, seats, retainers, etc) than get the k24a1 head to swap on? Also would it better to get like a hybrid racing or skunk2 tensioner and a TODA chain or would OEM be ok but just new? Also how do you check everything? I'm new to the advanced engine aspect of things

OEM is not sufficient in the long run for aftermarket cams. But a Hybrid tensioner or a "Chunky" tensioner (made by a member named chunky and proven to run aftermarket cams)

As far as the chain itself, if you can afford the TODA chain, GO FOR IT! I've never read a thread with a review, but that chain looks like it'll outlast the engine! Any other OEM timing chain will work though. Just start with a brand new fresh chain, NO USED!

[Reaper27]

Cool, I've always been curious about the chain since I've never seen anyone use it before. I'm wanting to clear this up tho, I just need to swap out the a3 spec valvetrain for a2 spec valvetrain and it will all just swap out with no modification? Also what about the rods? Change out to eagles or not worth it.

[Blah1219]

HA! You are getting the engine rebuild fever! I got it bad. Look at my build thread and I'm not done XD

[Blah1219]

Oh yeah to answer your question you don't need any eagle rods unless you want to some crazy shit. I just stuck with a2/z1 rods. If you want more comp you can always go a2/z1 which is 11cr or go with fd2 which is 11.7cr. Then you can go with flat faced valves for alittle bump. Or get the pistons coated. A lot of options.

[Reaper27]

I was just going to swap out the valvetrain for a2 spec, do I need to do the rods too?

[MugenReplica]

I was just going to swap out the valvetrain for a2 spec, do I need to do the rods too?

Don't need rods. Just the tensioner, chain, and s2000 or any 3 lobe vtec K-series springs, retainers, and seats.

[Reaper27]

Oh ok, now is there a huge difference between the Skunk2 tensioner and the hybrid racing tensioner? Cause the hybrid model is about $120 more than the skunk2

[Blah1219]

Oh ok, now is there a huge difference between the Skunk2 tensioner and the hybrid racing tensioner? Cause the hybrid model is about $120 more than the skunk2

Hybrid racing is much more reputable than skunk 2.

[MugenReplica]

Hybrid racing is much more reputable than skunk 2.

Agreed. If you need the cheaper version of either, I have used my IPS K2 cams with chunky's upgraded tensioner. Just PM him. Several members here, on K20a.org, and clubrsx.com used chunky's tensioner before there ever was another aftermarket option.

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=28038

[sleepy ep3]

Ok, so after I get the SC do I need to upgrade the valves? And if so to what?

Dude. Just calm down and read what people are saying. You're like one of those yip-yip dogs at the ankles when you walk in the door.

YOU DON'T NEED TO REPLACE THE VALVES. Skunk 2's site tells you what is recommended to replace when you look at the description for the cams. If you want to waste your money replacing stuff that doesn't need it, whatever.

BUY SPRINGS, RETAINERS, AND A HYBRID RACING TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER. Put the shit together, have fun. When you get the supercharger, put it on, it will work with existing mods, have more fun. Listen more, panic less

[sleepy ep3]

Hybrid racing is much more reputable than skunk 2.

At least the second generation tensioners are. Their first series was a mess

[Reaper27]

Dude. Just calm down and read what people are saying. You're like one of those yip-yip dogs at the ankles when you walk in the door.

YOU DON'T NEED TO REPLACE THE VALVES. Skunk 2's site tells you what is recommended to replace when you look at the description for the cams. If you want to waste your money replacing stuff that doesn't need it, whatever.

BUY SPRINGS, RETAINERS, AND A HYBRID RACING TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER. Put the shit together, have fun. When you get the supercharger, put it on, it will work with existing mods, have more fun. Listen more, panic less


Dude, idk what crawled up your ass and died but you need to get over it. No ones else here has a problem answering my questions and helping me nor do they have an attitude about it. They've all been very helpful and i thank ya'll for it. If you don't like what your reading in this thread then leave it alone and move the hell on but what gives you the right to sit here and bash me. If your that insecure that you need to pick on people over the internet through a keyboard then they make a pill for that, it's called extenze. No one asked you for your damn opinion so maybe your the one that needs to chill out.

[mitchlikesbikes]

Dude, idk what crawled up your ass and died but you need to get over it. No ones else here has a problem answering my questions and helping me nor do they have an attitude about it. They've all been very helpful and i thank ya'll for it. If you don't like what your reading in this thread then leave it alone and move the hell on but what gives you the right to sit here and bash me. If your that insecure that you need to pick on people over the internet through a keyboard then they make a pill for that, it's called extenze. No one asked you for your damn opinion so maybe your the one that needs to chill out.

so many cliche responses to internet trolls in here i can't even believe it.

sleepy for prez

[MugenReplica]

Sleepy means well and it 100% accurate with his info. No qualms here. The FIRST gen Hybrid tensioners had some issues, but the SECOND gen are 100% perfect and about the best you can buy for aftermarket cams. If you're going aftermarket cams and don't need 70k+, then I would would go with the "Chunky tensioner", but if you're going overboard.......Hybrid makes an OVER the top timing chain tensioner to go with your TODA chain.

*If I had the money, the Hybird tensioner with the TODA chain seem like a pretty damn reliable combo for an aftermarket setup......

[RhINoX^]

Good info so far.I hope the thread doesn`t get ruined. How much gain is expected after all said and done ? 180whp ?

[MugenReplica]

Good info so far.I hope the thread doesn`t get ruined. How much gain is expected after all said and done ? 180whp ?

Depends on what setup you're talking about?

[RhINoX^]

k20a3 stock IM , I/RH/E + K pro

[MugenReplica]

k20a3 stock IM , I/RH/E + K pro

With Stage II Skunk2 cams, I would expect around that with the RBC. What "IM" (and "I" & "RH") are you bringing to the table?

[RhINoX^]

My mods are Injen CAI, OBX v2, IM stock prb. Cams and build head for A3 aren`t more money than just swapping k20a2/z3.

[MugenReplica]

My mods are Injen CAI, OBX v2, IM stock prb. Cams and build head for A3 aren`t more money than just swapping k20a2/z3.

Okay, what do you mean by "build head"?

[RhINoX^]

LOL it`s so off topic. and by build meant new valves, titanium springs and retainers... not even porting.

[Reaper27]

Thats pretty much the same setup I have, AEM CAI, Skunk RH, custom exhaust, stock IM, hondata IMG, and Kpro. I was hoping to hit around 180-190 whp with the cams and all and shooting for 250-260+ with the JRSC but idk if that will all work out

[Reaper27]

LOL it`s so off topic. and by build meant new valves, titanium springs and retainers... not even porting.

From what I've gathered so far you really don't need to replace the valves unless your going to be boosting the hell out of it

[02_epdriver]

Good info, as always from mugenrep. Not to throw off topic here but I've set myself to add a chrger to my build but what kinda power would someone suggest when you get into the block sleeving category? I'm looking for power but trying to be strong and reliable around 300whp with my k24a1 build. Now I know mike (lucid moments) sleeved his through ERL and Attarixep is having his done by Benson but that build is big. Is it necessary I know theres plenty of others that are not with boost to 400. Looking for stong and reliable to an extent. I know more power can get out of the reliable situation.

[Ba82Ep3]

For stg2 2 lobe cams... the OE tensioner is fine. stg2 cams have less lift/duration than OE k20a2 cams. The HR tensioner isnt needed. The TODA chain isnt needed. Its just a waste of $.

Buy a new OE chain, new OE tensioner, and new k20z3 upper chain guide. Pull and check your OE tensioner at 30k miles and check for tooth wear and spring tension. It takes 5 minutes, and preventative maintenance goes a long way.

Im running a dual OE valvespring setup (yellow outers/red inners on both IN/EX) on k20z3 cams with an OE tensioner... im not concerned nor do i feel i need a better tensioner. If i were drag racing or pushing the car to 9k all day i might think differently...

[Ba82Ep3]

... but I've set myself to add a chrger to my build but what kinda power would someone suggest when you get into the block sleeving category? I'm looking for power but trying to be strong and reliable around 300whp with my k24a1 build.

Been down the k24a1/JRSC road and reliable 300whp is easily attainable. Sleeving would be a luxury... not a necessity.

[Ba82Ep3]

From what I've gathered so far you really don't need to replace the valves unless your going to be boosting the hell out of it

The term "built head" commonly involves new/upgraded everything AND head porting and a multiple valve angle job.

When you say 'built head' and include it in a mostly stock k20a3 discussion... people usually flock with sarcasm and internet humor. Dont take it personally... it is what it is. :mwink:

[02_epdriver]

Been down the k24a1/JRSC road and reliable 300whp is easily attainable. Sleeving would be a luxury... not a necessity.

Good to know. Going this week to pick up my head from a local salvage yard from an 06 crv. Thats was raped bad in an accident.

[sleepy ep3]

Thats pretty much the same setup I have, AEM CAI, Skunk RH, custom exhaust, stock IM, hondata IMG, and Kpro. I was hoping to hit around 180-190 whp with the cams and all and shooting for 250-260+ with the JRSC but idk if that will all work out

Supercharger will net you around 50-70 WHP, depending on other supporting mods, unless you go Rotrex. Most ppl get about 220-240 WHP from a JRSC setup

From what I've gathered so far you really don't need to replace the valves unless your going to be boosting the hell out of it
And even then, you usually don't. :mrolleyes:

Good info, as always from mugenrep. Not to throw off topic here but I've set myself to add a chrger to my build but what kinda power would someone suggest when you get into the block sleeving category? I'm looking for power but trying to be strong and reliable around 300whp with my k24a1 build. Now I know mike (lucid moments) sleeved his through ERL and Attarixep is having his done by Benson but that build is big. Is it necessary I know theres plenty of others that are not with boost to 400. Looking for stong and reliable to an extent. I know more power can get out of the reliable situation.
For 400hp, I would not incur the cost of sleeving the block. Sleeving would be more for a 550-600 WHEEL horse power build. Go with a block guard tho, just for insurance. :mwink:

The term "built head" commonly involves new/upgraded everything AND head porting and a multiple valve angle job.

When you say 'built head' and include it in a mostly stock k20a3 discussion... people usually flock with sarcasm and internet humor. Dont take it personally... it is what it is. :mwink:

Little button in the lower right hand section of post box. Called multi quote. Use it. Love ya buddy! :hay: :tehe: :mbiggrin:

[Ba82Ep3]

Little button in the lower right hand section of post box. Called multi quote. Use it. Love ya buddy! :hay: :tehe: :mbiggrin:

Ima blame that one on Droid posting... cutting and pasting in a multi post quote is a biatch of a muhfrikker... lol

----------

Its common to see 5-600whp k20a2 stock bottom end builds... but it isnt common to see longevity reports. I really think (and i know its said often but... ima say it again) it comes down to tuning. I mean... im by no means a master tuner, but i can see how easy a poorly tuned setup can yield a box full of spare parts. It sounds so cliche' but it IS the most important part of ANY build.

I think it hurts me feelins more to see someone wanting to shortcut on some form of engine management and a respected tuner than it does to see neon underglow on an EP...

... well, almost.

[02_epdriver]

Blockguard and some honing and clean up should do the job then.

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk

[Ba82Ep3]

Blockguard and some honing and clean up should do the job then.

Sent from my SGH-T959V using Tapatalk

Definitely... but keep in mind a blockguard also limits coolant flow to the head. JRSC 10psi on an OEM 10.5cr piston k24a1 will hit 300whp/265wtq easy. A blockguard on 10psi isnt really necessary. I guess at that point you would need to validate open deck protection with a blockguard over cooling ability... and which could likely be a potential issue for your use of the setup.

As far as block honing goes... it isnt required (per Honda manual) every time you rebuild. Sleeve condition (scratch depth, length, and quantity), crosshatch condition, and corrosion presence play a large factor.

The last block i built didnt need to be honed, but i did gap the new rings a little on the 'tight' side. If i needed to hone it... i would have bored it and gone OE oversize on the pistons/ringsets because i was already on the 86mm B size and wouldnt have much room to play with (as far as building a reliable daily driven engine that wasnt an oil eater after 80k). If i were building a higher revving NA engine... that would be a different story.

[02_epdriver]

Definitely... but keep in mind a blockguard also limits coolant flow to the head. JRSC 10psi on an OEM 10.5cr piston k24a1 will hit 300whp/265wtq easy. A blockguard on 10psi isnt really necessary. I guess at that point you would need to validate open deck protection with a blockguard over cooling ability... and which could likely be a potential issue for your use of the setup.

As far as block honing goes... it isnt required (per Honda manual) every time you rebuild. Sleeve condition (scratch depth, length, and quantity), crosshatch condition, and corrosion presence play a large factor.

The last block i built didnt need to be honed, but i did gap the new rings a little on the 'tight' side. If i needed to hone it... i would have bored it and gone OE oversize on the pistons/ringsets because i was already on the 86mm B size and wouldnt have much room to play with (as far as building a reliable daily driven engine that wasnt an oil eater after 80k). If i were building a higher revving NA engine... that would be a different story.

I see so a guard isnt really needed but optional and will decrease coolant flow to the head. Then why would someone use one? I would like that 300 territory maybe a bit more. The bottom and top will have aftermarket parts I know that. Still deciding exactly what I want. No hurry but would like to complete this sometime in my life. Ive had the block tore down bare for about 4 yrs now. Grabbing the head this week cause the other head I got for free k20a2 head from a buddy that the piston hit the head. Thought maybe it could be fixed but probably a headache. Some things will be oem but as far as rods pistons and cams will be aftermarket with the tsx crank and still determing the valvetrain and supporting parts that will go well with the JRSC. Just looking for the right direction for what I have in mind

[Ba82Ep3]

I see so a guard isnt really needed but optional and will decrease coolant flow to the head. Then why would someone use one?

Because K engines are 'open deck' design like the h22a4's of old. The h22a1 was the block to have because it was 'closed deck' from the factory, and the top of the sleeves had support for high boost applications. A block guard is a inexpensive way to mimic the 'closed deck' design found with the h22a1... or even a professionally sleeved block.

Personally, i would use a k24a1/a4 crank... TSX rods/pistons/ringsets/wristpins/ARP bolts and studs... and send the rotating assembly along with your flywheel of choice to the machine shop for balancing. Even after the machine shop work you would still have saved substantial $$$ versus the aftermarket parts purchases AND have a better balanced setup for an 8k all day k24. Youll appreciate the ability to RELIABLY spin higher when you add the JRSC too... as you lose some boost with the added displacement when compared to a k20 variant.

Again... thats just my opinion... and i am heavily OEM biased. But its hard not to be when Honda has already given us something so great to work with off the shelf. Even companies like Spoon use hyper matched and balanced OEM rotating assemblies... buying cases of OEM pistons/rods to find pistons/rods matched in weight before they are even balanced!

[02_epdriver]

Because K engines are 'open deck' design like the h22a4's of old. The h22a1 was the block to have because it was 'closed deck' from the factory, and the top of the sleeves had support for high boost applications. A block guard is a inexpensive way to mimic the 'closed deck' design found with the h22a1... or even a professionally sleeved block.

Personally, i would use a k24a1/a4 crank... TSX rods/pistons/ringsets/wristpins/ARP bolts and studs... and send the rotating assembly along with your flywheel of choice to the machine shop for balancing. Even after the machine shop work you would still have saved substantial $$$ versus the aftermarket parts purchases AND have a better balanced setup for an 8k all day k24. Youll appreciate the ability to RELIABLY spin higher when you add the JRSC too... as you lose some boost with the added displacement when compared to a k20 variant.

Again... thats just my opinion... and i am heavily OEM biased. But its hard not to be when Honda has already given us something so great to work with off the shelf. Even companies like Spoon use hyper matched and balanced OEM rotating assemblies... buying cases of OEM pistons/rods to find pistons/rods matched in weight before they are even balanced!

Well I sold the a1 crank to USAFEP3 for his build he did. So say I stay OEM what if I just go with the TSX as I've already put my order in for that with the tsx rods and pistons and oem bearings etc with a oil pump set up like Doug (talonX) did? I've thought in the back of my mind to go with maybe a vtec killer with the a1 head or maybe some other options. It will continue to be my DD but something I can track once awhile. I dont want the extreme of a turbo and have always like the JRSC for the extra punch. What do you in that dept. I'm guessing maybe some oversized pistons with rings? Type S or Type R fly? Yes savin some money is good for all of us? I do appreciate your help and advice man. 6 or 5 speed on the tranny? I see and remember with the h22 motor. That has been the only boosted motor i've had back in my 92 eg.

[mitchlikesbikes]

Ima blame that one on Droid posting... cutting and pasting in a multi post quote is a biatch of a muhfrikker... lol

----------

Its common to see 5-600whp k20a2 stock bottom end builds... but it isnt common to see longevity reports. I really think (and i know its said often but... ima say it again) it comes down to tuning. I mean... im by no means a master tuner, but i can see how easy a poorly tuned setup can yield a box full of spare parts. It sounds so cliche' but it IS the most important part of ANY build.

I think it hurts me feelins more to see someone wanting to shortcut on some form of engine management and a respected tuner than it does to see neon underglow on an EP...

... well, almost.

i love people who are constantly asking "can i run this and/or that on a stock ecu?"

just fucking get KPRO!!!!

[Ba82Ep3]

Yes you will definitely need to address the oil pump issue for 8k reliably. I havent done this yet, but i will go the k20z3 oil pump route because it has balance shafts. I can imagine that with a balanced rotating assembly would be slick as owl sh!t... and have a long life expectancy for DD and occasional track use.

The TSX RBB crank is a better base to start with (versus a k24a1/a4 crank), but i would still include that with the rest of your internals for balancing. It will outlast the other cranks too... since it is a forged piece (13310-RBB-010 is forged, 13310-R40-A00 is not... but both are TSX cranks).

I have wanted to turbo a kXX for a while now. Like you i have had older turbo'd Hondas, been down the JRSC'd k route and loved it... but cant decide what i wanna do this time around. The JRSC keeps calling me... if only for the fat midrange and instant throttle response it has. In my current chassis i have a lot of room between the firewall and the back of the engine (unlike my EP)... so im kinda thinking a JRSC with KTuned's RAM header. Its totally against my OEM fanaticism... but i really like the look of that header!

6 speed with LSD. Either add the k20z3 trans' 6th/LSD to your existing EP 5 speed (power curbing taller gears)... or go all out with a hybrid EP/k20z3 trans for awesome acceleration (tire shredder for the lead foot in you). :mbiggrin:

Either way youll love it... but the EP trans only has triple cone syncs on 1st and 2nd gears. The hybrid EP/k20z3 trans would give you better synchros...but if the 4.7 is too much tire shredding for you, then you can use the k20a2 6 speeds 4.3FD ring gear to tone things down a bit. Kinda the best of both worlds...

[Ba82Ep3]

i love people who are constantly asking "can i run this and/or that on a stock ecu?"

just fucking get KPRO!!!!

LOL It used to be the whole Honda 'scene' revolved around cut springs, a VAFC, and larger injectors. The midset was cheap. It aint that simple anymore...

[sleepy ep3]

I see so a guard isnt really needed , Then why would someone use one?

Because of the fluctuation of the cylinder wall under extreme heat, pressure, and rpms. There used to be a video on YouTube showing a tsx motor under boost, at 20 psi, both with and without a block guard. The top of the cylinder walls showed quite a bit of movement. I would think that any upgrade that helps with stability is a good one, especially given what a block guard costs. If you had a nice drill press, you could even enlarge the coolant holes, but then you are defeating the purpose of the guard by removing material.


6 or 5 speed on the tranny?

I would vote 6 speed. Some say 5 speed for boost, and 6 for na, but I love my 6 speed setup. Being able to cruise at a lower rpm on the hwy is just great. Or, you could always have the 6th gear added to the 5 speed.


i love people who are constantly asking "can i run this and/or that on a stock ecu?"

just fucking get KPRO!!!!
ninjas is broke mang. Trying to save every penny and get the best bang for the buck. Most people don't need kpro. If you are only I/RH/E than having kpro isn't going to make you an extra 30 hp. When you go beyond the basics is when you need it for being able to fine tune fuel maps, etc. I remember not having the money build my car, but I build mine over 2 years, and a bunch of stuff changed. (income, plans for car, etc) Overall I agree tho, if you plan on your stuff being silky smooth, you need a good tuner and kpro. Doesn't hurt you can pass emissions fairly easily either.

[Sanfords]

I'm surprized, thanks!

[USAF EP3]

Well I sold the a1 crank to USAFEP3 for his build he did. So say I stay OEM what if I just go with the TSX as I've already put my order in for that with the tsx rods and pistons and oem bearings etc with a oil pump set up like Doug (talonX) did? I've thought in the back of my mind to go with maybe a vtec killer with the a1 head or maybe some other options. It will continue to be my DD but something I can track once awhile. I dont want the extreme of a turbo and have always like the JRSC for the extra punch. What do you in that dept. I'm guessing maybe some oversized pistons with rings? Type S or Type R fly? Yes savin some money is good for all of us? I do appreciate your help and advice man. 6 or 5 speed on the tranny? I see and remember with the h22 motor. That has been the only boosted motor i've had back in my 92 eg.

I'm still not done with the build man LOL. I'm sitting over here for almost 2 years now and I've got well over $9k invested and I'm still probably $4k away from being done..

[02_epdriver]

I'm still not done with the build man LOL. I'm sitting over here for almost 2 years now and I've got well over $9k invested and I'm still probably $4k away from being done..

LOL, I should have had something built yrs ago. I'm dedicated now. When your into bikes as well it never ends. Well I hope everything works out for ya when you finally get it done.

[02_epdriver]

Does anyone think 371 dollars for a set of BC stage 2 cams a good price

[Ba82Ep3]

Not when you can snag k20a2 cams for less than half that and have more lift and duration plus OEM proven engineering...

[AKEP]

Does anyone think 371 dollars for a set of BC stage 2 cams a good price

anything for a k20a3 as far as cams is pretty much a waste. money better spent on another head and kpoo.

Not when you can snag k20a2 cams for less than half that and have more lift and duration plus OEM proven engineering...


also, thanks for that little note on the rbb crank. made my day a little better.

[02_epdriver]

anything for a k20a3 as far as cams is pretty much a waste. money better spent on another head and kpoo.



also, thanks for that little note on the rbb crank. made my day a little better.

Where might I grab a set for that? I will be running the A1 head with the block. When really is it better to start using aftermarket internals over OEM or is it just a preference?

[Blah1219]

anything for a k20a3 as far as cams is pretty much a waste. money better spent on another head and kpoo.

Yeah screw the cams. Put ITBs on the k20a3!

[Ba82Ep3]

also, thanks for that little note on the rbb crank. made my day a little better.

Were you worried about your crank...or? I dont remember the year it changed over but i wanna say 2010? The R40 is the Accord crank... but its used in the TSX as well.

[Ba82Ep3]

Yeah screw the cams. Put ITBs on the k20a3!

I ran into a kid the other day that has a RWD AE86 with (and i have no idea about Toyota stuff so i can only tell you what he told me) a JDM engine swap that came with OE ITBs. He had swapped the trumpets out with some aftermarket parts and had individual foam filters on them but it sure looked sweet... and sounded awesome. He still had no power though... i pulled on him on the low lobe. haha

[Blah1219]

Damn haha probably a stock 1.6L. It's like putting itbs on a stock b16a2 in a crx.

[02_epdriver]

The k20z1 cams will work in the k24a1 head,correct?

[Ba82Ep3]

With 3 lobe rocker assembly and rocker shafts... or solid rockers on both IN/EX sides.

Camshaft bases and caps are interchangeable amongst the heads.

[AKEP]

Were you worried about your crank...or? I dont remember the year it changed over but i wanna say 2010? The R40 is the Accord crank... but its used in the TSX as well.

not really but after a bad day, finding out you have a forged crank (vs something inferior) just made me feel a little better inside. thats all. btw i just have the 2006 5spd AT version too. so things like that just seem unexpected too.

[AcaiBerry]

Your comments are very appreciated:)

[Reaper27]

Is it possible to run stage 2 cams with turbo? Or do I have to run turbo 1 cams?

[AttarixEp]

Is it possible to run stage 2 cams with turbo? Or do I have to run turbo 1 cams?

I'm using Brian Crower stage 2 n/a cams for my turbo build.