Speaker installation question

[TheBerrynator]

I'm going to be replacing the OEM speakers within the next couple months.

I already have:
Kicker 700.5zx amp ---- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6572_Kicker-ZX700.5.html
500W Alpine type-R sub (no link)
Alpine CDE 103BT

I plan on purchasing:
Infinity reference 6030cs http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18913_Infinity-Reference-6030cs.html
something <$70 for the rears -- not as important, possibly these. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18903_Infinity-Reference-6032cf.html

How much speaker wire do I need? the amp has power and is installed, minus speaker wire. So I will need to be running speaker wire from the head unit to the amp, and from the amp to the 4 speakers. Obviously, I do not intend on using any of the existing wiring.

what else will I need to get going?

anyone know of any speakers that will give me a better bang for the buck? I dont really need a lot of bass, the sub provides plenty. Amazon has the 6030's for ~$90 right now.

[introvert]

Good choices on the speakers. Given that the car needs only ~12 ft RCAs from deck to donut wheel.. You won't need that much cable. It really all depends on where you mount your amp and where you plan on mounting the front crossovers. If you plan on throwing the amp under the seat you'll use hardly any cable at all. Especially if you mount the crossovers on/in the door.

Speaker wire is cheap as well, so I wouldn't get too worried about it. A 50 foot spool should probably be enough. The last time I ordered I bought a 100ft spool of Monster cable THX cable from amazon for around $30 shipped. Had a ton left over. Sonic should have something available. Just loosely measure it beforehand and then add a foot or so extra.

As far as other choices, you should be fine with Infinity. Another good set around that price point is Polk db6501 & db651.

*Edit: Just noticed this comment: "So I will need to be running speaker wire from the head unit to the amp, and from the amp to the 4 speakers. Obviously, I do not intend on using any of the existing wiring."

I would suggest using RCAs from the head unit to the amp. If you're still on the stock deck, you're going to have to buy a line output converter. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4993_Scosche-SLC-4.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4994_Scosche-LOC-80.html (2 channel)

[TheBerrynator]

*Edit: Just noticed this comment: "So I will need to be running speaker wire from the head unit to the amp, and from the amp to the 4 speakers. Obviously, I do not intend on using any of the existing wiring."

I would suggest using RCAs from the head unit to the amp. If you're still on the stock deck, you're going to have to buy a line output converter. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4993_Scosche-SLC-4.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_4994_Scosche-LOC-80.html (2 channel)

I forgot to add the head unit, it is not stock, and has been updated above.

[introvert]

Just looked up the HU owner's manual: Link: CDE-103BT Owner's Manual (http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_CDE-103BT_EN.pdf)

It's going to get tricky on the wiring, given that the head unit only has 2 sets of pre-outs (Front & Rear). You're likely already using the rears for your sub. A couple of options:

Option 1: Use 2 Y-Splitters to split the front channels on the HU to get signal to the amp's 1/2/3/4 channels and power your front & rear speakers. Leave the sub using the rear RCA channels on the head unit. All 4 speakers would be powered by the amp (70W x4), but you would lose "fade" on the head unit.

Option 2: Bridge the front & rear channels on the amp. Head unit's front RCAs would go into the amp in bridged configuration. Front components would be powered off the amp. Rear speakers would use stock wiring from the head unit. Leave the sub using the rear RCAs. This would give you - 130W x 2 (front) & 18W x 2 (rear). Downside with this is if you enjoy listening at high volume you'll get distortion coming out of the rear speakers.

[TheBerrynator]

Just looked up the HU owner's manual: Link: CDE-103BT Owner's Manual (http://support.alpine-usa.com/products/documents/OM_CDE-103BT_EN.pdf)

It's going to get tricky on the wiring, given that the head unit only has 2 sets of pre-outs (Front & Rear). You're likely already using the rears for your sub. A couple of options:

Option 1: Use 2 Y-Splitters to split the front channels on the HU to get signal to the amp's 1/2/3/4 channels and power your front & rear speakers. Leave the sub using the rear RCA channels on the head unit. All 4 speakers would be powered by the amp (70W x4), but you would lose "fade" on the head unit.

At the time I bought the HU, I did not think I would be installing a sub, I'm now regretting this move. If i usually keep the fade at 0, will I really notice any difference going this route? I may look in the future at replacing the HU with a newer one when the current Alpine line (this one, http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE136B/Alpine-CDE-136BT.html?tp=5684#customer-reviews-tab ) goes on clearance, but for now, what I have is what I'm stuck with.

[USAF EP3]

I've been wanting to upgrade my audio system for awhile now. I already have an Alpine headunit, don't know the model. Looks like I'd be spending around ~$1000 for an amp, speakers, and a sub-woofer.

I might just copy you and buy what you posted here. Looks like good equipment.

[TheBerrynator]

I might just copy you and buy what you posted here. Looks like good equipment.

It is, FYI I ended up getting them from amazon, the fronts and rears came out to about $150 shipped, with cables and everything it came out to ~200 for the speakers

I'd estimate I've put ~$500 into it so far. The only thing I have left is building a subfloor in the hatch to house the amp & sub, Right now the amp is attached to the rear seat, and the sub is just sitting there.

[USAF EP3]

What did you do about the tweeters? Left them stock? Also, when you mean you spent about $500, is that with the amp and sub? Cause that amp looks like it will eat up most of the funds I want to spend on audio right now.

[introvert]

At the time I bought the HU, I did not think I would be installing a sub, I'm now regretting this move. If i usually keep the fade at 0, will I really notice any difference going this route? I may look in the future at replacing the HU with a newer one when the current Alpine line (this one, http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500CDE136B/Alpine-CDE-136BT.html?tp=5684#customer-reviews-tab ) goes on clearance, but for now, what I have is what I'm stuck with.You won't really notice a difference. A lot of competition folks don't even use rear speakers, since "stereo" is technically just a front stage. It's all really semantics and just depends on the preference of the listener.

If you went the route of Option 1 you could just leave it at 0 or set the fade to front all the way and not notice a difference. After, you can then turn off the head unit's built-in amp via menu. It saves the head unit from some heat and is supposed to "improve quality" per the owner manual.

[TheBerrynator]

What did you do about the tweeters? Left them stock? Also, when you mean you spent about $500, is that with the amp and sub? Cause that amp looks like it will eat up most of the funds I want to spend on audio right now.

I haven't installed them yet. I literally just ordered them yesterday, and I wont have everything until next week. As far as the tweeters go, I'm just hoping I will be able to fit them in the same spot as the existing tweeters. I'll figure it out when it gets here.

And yes thats including everything. I bought the amp used at a pawn shop for $180, I bought the sub that hadn't really been used from a friend for $80, the HU was bought on clearance about $70 off. I've found that if you spend a little time looking, you can save a lot of money. The speakers I ended up buying are marked down over 50%, I was not going to pay more than $150 for the set (F & R).

[USAF EP3]

I haven't installed them yet. I literally just ordered them yesterday, and I wont have everything until next week. As far as the tweeters go, I'm just hoping I will be able to fit them in the same spot as the existing tweeters. I'll figure it out when it gets here.

And yes thats including everything. I bought the amp used at a pawn shop for $180, I bought the sub that hadn't really been used from a friend for $80, the HU was bought on clearance about $70 off. I've found that if you spend a little time looking, you can save a lot of money. The speakers I ended up buying are marked down over 50%, I was not going to pay more than $150 for the set (F & R).

That's pretty good, I guess I'll hunt on craigslist locally and local pawn shops for that amp or something of equal quality. Same thing for the sub-woofer.

[introvert]

Note on the tweeters: The sail panels will work.. You just might need to get a little creative. Hot glue works wonders. :msmile: