Auto recyclers engines...what should I replace?

[Jukka]

So I'm thinking of picking up a new A3 (found one with less than 100K km on it for around $500) and I need to do something about my engine. So if I buy a new engine from a auto wreckers/recyclers, what should I be looking at replacing? I was thinking oilpan and valve cover gaskets. I have new TB and intake manifold gasket sitting in my room right now (will be swapping over the IM and TB to the new engine because I'll be gettin an RSX base A3).

I was thinking of maybe doing some minor upgrades if I get the motor and have it out of the car for awhile like doing a circuit hero lower timing chain guide, skunk2 chain tensioner, new pullies (have new idler pulley and a new belt tensioner pulley on order), plugs, drain plug (replace the wrecker motors one with my skunk2 magnetic one) and fuel rail (have a bld one), VTC filter.

What else should I replace/upgrade if I pick it up? The one I'm looking at has had full compression test done and verified KMs on it.

[cyllarus]

If you are going to put another A3 back in, it would be my opinion to only replace items that would add reliability.

Plugs-yes
pulleys - yes
fuel rail - why?
Chain tensioner - why?
Chain guide - why?


Unless there is evidence that the Valve cover or oil pan gaskets are leaking i would leave them alone, especially the oil pan, that one is a pain to get off.

I WOULD replace the front and possibly the rear main seals. The front is easy to replace.. the rear.. yea .. not so much. But of all the oil seals on the motor, i think they are the most likely to go.

I'd also suggest replacing the crank pulley with a pulley off an RSX-s, or 06+ SI. Its a smaller diameter than the stock a3 pulley, but is fully harmonically dampened.

like a poor mans under-drive pulley but without the danger of running an un-dampened crank. i know when i swapped mine on the a3 i DID notice a small, but real, difference

[AKEP]

Tensioner and guide because the k's weakspot is just that, low oil pressure and a worn out spring on the tensioner will lax the chain and it will skip timing. do those and add the z3 upper chain guide and you'll never have to worry about a slipping chain. I would opt for the hybrid racing tensioner if you can swing the cash for it. dual ratcheting action with the smaller teeth mean it will hold maximum tension at all times, it also has that on 2 sides instead of one for redundancy, the s2 with its giant teeth is just less likely to break teeth like OEM does.

Hes going to have to take the oil pan off for the front and rear seals anyways right?

a2 oil pump. a2 oil pan?

[Jukka]

I would replace the fuel rail because I have a new BDL rail sitting at home, but don't need to replace the engine anymore. Managed to fix my vtec solenoid.