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View Full Version : Rear Stabilizer bar rattle.



Adanac
05-26-2012, 12:35 PM
Hey been seeing some talk about stabilizer bars. I've got an issue I'm not to sure if people have this too. On bumpy roads like gravel roads I'm getting a lot of rattle (like a loose bolt in the suspension somehwere). Upon closer inpection it looks like the hole in the bracket on the lower control arm that fits the bolt from the rear stalilizer bar has been made bigger and that is what is causing the bolt to move (though stil tight) up and down and causing my rattle. (I think)

Anyone else with this issue? Any fix? or do I need to replace my entire lower control arm?

clean04si
05-26-2012, 02:45 PM
what kinda milage are we talking? generally the rear stabilizer bar links go bad and cause noise in the rear. theres no reason it would wear the hole for the link to bolt to the control arm unless there was an incompetent repair made at some point.

you can easily test this with the car in the air or elevated but if you crawl and push/pull the stab. bar near the end/bend (close to the link and control arm), any noise or play(clicking,popping) indicates a worn link (or BUSHING)
Moog chassis parts make the best replacement IMO.

if this doesnt help i can post pics next time

Adanac
05-26-2012, 04:01 PM
Hey thanks. I'm at 135,000 KM (Canadian Car). But I'm sure they've been repaced (due to the torch burn). I'm also positive it's moving around in the hole. I got it off and can see the wear on the inside of the self locking nut. It's almost rubbed smooth. Before I took it off, I used the floor jack to compress the suspension and I can see it moving in the hole. I think I'm going to put some anti-seize and then hit it with an air gun to make it super tight. Here's hoping it doesn't get seized.

Adanac
05-26-2012, 04:47 PM
So here is a shot of my lower control arm bracket. Looks like some loser tech just hit it with a torch and burned the hell out of it. :/

No doubt to get the previous seized stabilizer bar out.

http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/579625_10151753622580526_1820334574_n.jpeg

ep3k20
05-26-2012, 06:19 PM
that is pretty chopped up man holy shit

Adanac
05-26-2012, 06:45 PM
I'm considering putting back some material with a mig but I'm not in the mood to all that grinding. I'll see if the air gun tightened bolt will work. If not then I'll mig it.

ep3k20
05-26-2012, 09:11 PM
That's gonna be a lotta prep to get that set right tho

Adanac
05-26-2012, 11:46 PM
You don't think hitting the area with a sand blaster to clean it, then mig on some material would work? I think I'd also put an aluminium rod in the hole so I don't have to drill it out after. That would be the biggest PITA.

clean04si
05-27-2012, 05:52 AM
Dam i see what you mean now. i think some kind of sleeve would work lol. but you may have to oversize the whole just slightly if not i think the OE link bolts are 10mm. 12 at most

Adanac
05-27-2012, 09:07 AM
Yeah, after inspecting the hole it doesn't looks like the hole is bigger. The only "damage" is the trove burn which would not provide and "grip" for the nut at that point. Other than that it's okay. I was wondering if I could fit some kind of bushing in there so even if it does move it won't rattle and drive me nuts.

ep3k20
05-27-2012, 10:46 AM
Yeah, after inspecting the hole it doesn't looks like the hole is bigger. The only "damage" is the trove burn which would not provide and "grip" for the nut at that point. Other than that it's okay. I was wondering if I could fit some kind of bushing in there so even if it does move it won't rattle and drive me nuts.


Ya just weld the same size sheath in place of the damaged one. That way you can run the same bolt size straight thru and wont compromise integrity. Or cut that bitch out and fab your own using the better side as a template.

Adanac
05-27-2012, 10:55 AM
Heeeey, that's a good idea. I might just do that.

Adanac
05-28-2012, 03:44 PM
Well fellas, it worked! Just a bit of anti seize and giver with the air gun. No more rattle :). Now on to my defunked AC