Crazy smoke!!

[civictype_r04]

Well got my new turbo setup back in December and put about 1000 miles on it. Here I am 5 months later and haven't driven my car in like 3 weeks. One day I was leaving work and pulled out on a main road 4 lanes and got on it and hit 2nd and the car felt strange when I gave it gas. Then while I was sitting in traffic the car started to smoke burning oil smell. It was a cloud since I had the e-cut out open it was coming out from under both sides of the car and under the hood. So I shut the dump and got home without getting on it at all I live like 10 minutes from my work. Now I have no clue what it is I got valve seals like 6 months ago never installed them and wonder if its them or some fried rings in one of my cylinders. How can I tell what my problem is? Help please!

[USAF EP3]

Compression test will tell you if it's the rings. Also, when you pull the spark plugs, look into the cylinders and check for oil pooling on the top (or coolant/water).

What turbo are you using? Cheaper turbo's will have cheap thrust washers that will cause a leak once they are overburdened.

Valve stem seals will not create a cloud of smoke that you are experiencing so you can scratch that off.

Last time I had a friend have this symptom it ended up being an incorrectly gapped and clocked oil control piston ring.

[civictype_r04]

It is a precision 5252e.

[civictype_r04]

My motor has 67,000 on it.

[sleepy ep3]

I've had an issue with this in the past, so I'll try to help.

Easiest and cheapest fix is to try a thicker oil. If the motor is built a bit loose, run 15-50 Mobil 1. Don't listen to the haters, it works, and works perfectly. If its not built to a looser spec, I would still try it, won't hurt anything, just let it warm up a bit longer after a cold start.

If you are running a side mount manifold, most of them mount the turbo at a slight angle, and this allows oil to collect after a cool down. Oil will sit in the turbo, and not blow out until you really get on it.

The next most probable cause is a bad turbo seal, or not letting the seal warm up. What I mean by this: newer Precision turbos use a "dynamic" seal, that isn't effective until after the turbo has reached full operating temperature, and all the excess oil has been blown out/drained back into pan via return.

Last thing I would worry about is the rings. A compression check will let you know what's up with that. Any engine builder worth his salt will try to make it consistent as much as possible across all cylinders, but sometimes one may be a bit wide, causing oil to blow by. I don't believe that is your issue, as it would more than likely smoke all the time.

Best of luck.

[civictype_r04]

My motor is all stock and I am running a top mount manifold.

[AKEP]

check your IC piping for oil. thats a sign your turbo seals have gone bad. not sure if that works on both sides of the turbo but i imagine it would be safe to assume that if theres oil on one side, its leaking on the other. or sucking it up through the intake... check your wheel for play?

one part that got me was my return line coming loose (i didn't want to overtighten the AN fittings) and then also the cheap gasket blowing out somehow. try looking there.

[civictype_r04]

Thanks I'll look into that also.

[civictype_r04]

Blown turbo??? I Think so!!
http://img.tapatalk.com/445430cc-2af4-ff38.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/445430cc-2b09-43ef.jpg

[04EP3Hatch]

Wow

[USAF EP3]

That sucks man. Time to go with a more quality turbo!! Garrett or Borg Warner I would recommend :mcool:

[civictype_r04]

Wow

That's what I said when I removed the v-band clamp!

[civictype_r04]

That sucks man. Time to go with a more quality turbo!! Garrett or Borg Warner I would recommend :mcool:

The turbo is only 4 months old it's still under warranty... lol

[USAF EP3]

Still Precision is cheap compared to the other companies. They outsourced all their bearings and internals to be made in China. They used to be made here but not any more.

Like I tell everyone man, you get what you pay for, lol. Pretty pathetic that it's only 4 months old and it went to shit.

[civictype_r04]

Still Precision is cheap compared to the other companies. They outsourced all their bearings and internals to be made in China. They used to be made here but not any more.

Like I tell everyone man, you get what you pay for, lol. Pretty pathetic that it's only 4 months old and it went to shit.

I hear what your saying I want to see what they are gonna do about it though.

[AKEP]

which model was this? its basically a t3/t4 type right?

[sleepy ep3]

Precision makes really good shit. There's no reason for anyone to bash them. There are cars that make 2-3000 hp on them with no issues. Sometimes you get a bad one.

That sucks man. Time to go with a more quality turbo!! Garrett or Borg Warner I would recommend :mcool:
Garret and Precision use the same parts. Housings are usually different, but they are all based on a garret design for the most part

[civictype_r04]

which model was this? its basically a t3/t4 type right?

Yea.. It's a 5252e

[civictype_r04]

Precision makes really good shit. There's no reason for anyone to bash them. There are cars that make 2-3000 hp on them with no issues. Sometimes you get a bad one.

Garret and Precision use the same parts. Housings are usually different, but they are all based on a garret design for the most part

I know.

[tricksJDM]

Well at least it isn't your valve seals , or your rings! I have had a similar issue using the #$@# gReddy banjo bold set up for an oil drain. About 4 K on the set up my oil would start backing up into the turbo via the oil drain and puff out blue smoke only on idle. The problem is when the oil gets in there and heats up it really cakes up your turbo leaving me with a half seized turbo :( . I am currently taping my oil pan and running a new drain and having my turbo rebuilt! what a pain in the ass.... good luck my friend

[weltall]

what oil are you using? im going to guess and say 5w20

here is the thing the greddy banjo fitting works fine, however..... since the oil return is under the oil level the system now needs to rely on oil pressure to pump it back into the pan (like blowing bubbles into a milkshake) the thing with 5w20 is it gets as thin as water when heated up (especially inside a turbo at idle where the car doesnt supply enough pressure) this thinner oil will work around bushing stlye seals in a normal turbo with extraordinary ease then it burns the charring pushes more on the seal untill well you know

10w30 is MUCH less likely to get around the normal wear and tear on turbo seals (your turbo will die before it get through)

if i remember correctly the greddy instructions i had back in 04 said to use 10w30

i used 10w30 on my greddy kit for years then again on my fullrace setup and never had turbo issues (i did have a gt35r die on the dyno but that was a defect from garrett where the weep hol on the oil fitting internal to the turbo was blocked off by casting flash)






weltall vanish

[civictype_r04]

I was using 5w30 but now with this new turbo I put in 10w30.

[1GR8EP3]

what oil are you using? im going to guess and say 5w20

here is the thing the greddy banjo fitting works fine, however..... since the oil return is under the oil level the system now needs to rely on oil pressure to pump it back into the pan (like blowing bubbles into a milkshake) the thing with 5w20 is it gets as thin as water when heated up (especially inside a turbo at idle where the car doesnt supply enough pressure) this thinner oil will work around bushing stlye seals in a normal turbo with extraordinary ease then it burns the charring pushes more on the seal untill well you know

10w30 is MUCH less likely to get around the normal wear and tear on turbo seals (your turbo will die before it get through)

if i remember correctly the greddy instructions i had back in 04 said to use 10w30

i used 10w30 on my greddy kit for years then again on my fullrace setup and never had turbo issues (i did have a gt35r die on the dyno but that was a defect from garrett where the weep hol on the oil fitting internal to the turbo was blocked off by casting flash)






weltall vanish

Nice to see you still come on from time to time og... good stuff
I also like the signature qoute haha

to the op
Thicker wieght oil is always a good thing when stepping up to a turbo set up... 10w 30 is a good I always used castrol syntec, it was just me but I loved that oil, still do hahaha

[gtimportfanatic]

what oil are you using? im going to guess and say 5w20

here is the thing the greddy banjo fitting works fine, however..... since the oil return is under the oil level the system now needs to rely on oil pressure to pump it back into the pan (like blowing bubbles into a milkshake) the thing with 5w20 is it gets as thin as water when heated up (especially inside a turbo at idle where the car doesnt supply enough pressure) this thinner oil will work around bushing stlye seals in a normal turbo with extraordinary ease then it burns the charring pushes more on the seal untill well you know

10w30 is MUCH less likely to get around the normal wear and tear on turbo seals (your turbo will die before it get through)

if i remember correctly the greddy instructions i had back in 04 said to use 10w30

i used 10w30 on my greddy kit for years then again on my fullrace setup and never had turbo issues (i did have a gt35r die on the dyno but that was a defect from garrett where the weep hol on the oil fitting internal to the turbo was blocked off by casting flash)






weltall vanish

The MuthaFawkin Legend!! Good words man

[makavelibranded]

One other questions, after letting it sit for so long did you prime the turbo before starting it up?