A/C suddenly went out - clutch? Can it be replaced w/o taking compressor off?

[bchaney]

The original compressor on my car blew up before I bought it and I swapped in a used compressor (oil added) and dryer when I did my motor swap. I just recently charged the system (couple months ago) and it has been working fine. Last week I noticed that the A/C was stuck in the ON position - the vents were still blowing ice cold after I turned the A/C switch OFF. I tried switching it ON/OFF the next day and it was working properly.

Yesterday on my drive home from work the A/C was ON but suddenly started blowing warm outside air. I cycled the switch OFF/ON a couple of times yesterday and today but the A/C will not kick on again. I think I can faintly smell a burning/electrical smell thru the vents when I try turning on the A/C. There is no sound coming from under the hood and the compressor pulley looks to be spinning freely.

I'm thinking it's a problem with the A/C clutch engagement... does that sound right? If I do end up needing to replace the clutch, can this be done w/o removing the compressor entirely? I don't wanna have to get a new dryer and recharge the system again.

It's getting close to 100deg here this wkend so I need to take care of this ASAP.

[RotaryGreg]

I dont know if it can be replaced while on the car but there are a couple things you should check before you go trying.

Check the gap. if the gap is too big it cant pull it in regardless. Ive seen this happen on a few really high mileage mazdas and a couple of dodge trucks too.

Next, if that checks out, check that there is power getting to the clutch magnet.

While you are doing both these things, you'll be able to get a good look around the compressor and see if its feesible to change the clutch while still on the car. I know its doable on most mazda stuff....but being a mazda mechanic and my lovely honda not letting me down much (knock on wood) I haven't really tried on any hondas.

[Euro-Yellow-Ep3]

Also check to see if u have the correct pressure in the system, i bought one of those AC cans and put too much in acidenatly and my clutch starting slipping. Then i realized some pressure and it solved the issue. hope this helps

[summoner12]

I just changed the compressor on my '02. I think the compressor locked up inside, couldn't even turn the thing. I think when I would click it on the belt was slipping over the pulley because if at idle it would stall the engine.....

So, I guess what I am getting at is, the pressure could have dropped due to a leak, so no clutch engagement, could be too high of a pressure, could be an open wire to the compressor clutch. I used to be AC certified but have not had any real experience working on cars other than my own. Most likely, if you recharged it with a new (used) compressor, the O-rings leaked or that used compressor is used up or the wiring is bad. The wiring should be pretty easy to check. If you pop off the plastic skirt below the bumper you can access the wiring. If you want to get a closer look you can remove the bumper and right headlight very easily and then remove the top bolts for the radiator and condensor to access the compressor. If you decide to change the compressor, just do what i mentioned about removing the bumper and skirt and you can drop the subframe a bit to remove the compressor. Even if you pull the subframe bolts all the way you can leave the LCA connected and I think the sway bar, just support it all with a jack....

[bchaney]

Well I finally got around to investigating the problem. The gap checks out almost right in the middle of the spec. I couldn't get to the connector/electrical to put a multimeter on it so I will have to take some stuff off to access it.

I did notice that the armature plate is discolored/whiteish/peeling/cracking so I'm thinking the clutch burned out. As long as everything else checks out OK, I think I could replace just the clutch but I'd like to know why it burned in the first place so I'm sure it won't happen to the new one. Should I be able to turn the outer armature plate? I can't so maybe the compressor is seized...

http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/5555/img00257201206252004.jpg

[summoner12]

I am gonna go with it's seized. I could turn all the parts on my new one, the old was locked and the freewheel part of the compressor pulley was stiff to turn. I noticed an improvement in gas mileage after changing the clutch and compressor out... and I haven't been light footed :D

Now I just need to get the damn thing 'recharged'. I hope I put it all back together tight enough without messing up the Orings.... my guess is i'll get a recharge and it'll all leak out in a month.... then i'll need to do a whole seal kit. :\

[bchaney]

Yea I came to that conclusion as well. Ordered a new compressor, dryer, and expansion valve. Gonna flush out the system thoroughly this time so I dont have to do this a third time. Must've overlooked this step last time because I was in a time crunch to finish my swap to make the tuning appt. Most of the work is taking things apart / draining coolant just to get to the A/C components. Can't wait to do that this weekend when its 99deg!

You should just replace the O-rings now, it'll be cheaper and less hassle in the long run. You can get an assortment of sizes from any auto parts store and some hardware stores for no more than 15 bucks. If you need to open it up again you'll have to replace the dryer and pay for another recharge at the least. Our system uses 5/8", 1/2", and 8mm rings. If you get about 5 of each size you should be good to go. Put some of your PAG oil on each one before you install it.