Exedy clutch concern

[fdnyjon]

Hey, can somebody shed some light on my Exedy stage1 clutch + Exedy Flywheel question. Can i re-use it on a k20a2 or k20a tranny swap?

Thanks! :)

[rd02SiR]

If you buy it for DC5 application, yes.

If you buy an EP3 specific one, no.

Will DC5 clutch and fly fit in EP3, yes.

[sistealth02]

Hey, can somebody shed some light on my Exedy stage1 clutch + Exedy Flywheel question. Can i re-use it on a k20a2 or k20a tranny swap?

Thanks! :)

Yes, it will work. As long as you swap the ENTIRE Exedy clutch and flywheel together. Exedy does not make "car specific" clutch or flywheels when it comes to the DC5 and EP3, rather it's engine specific...in this case the K20a motor (the a2 is a k20a, the a3 is a k20a, etc.). In fact, if you go to Exedy's website, it tells you what motors the clutch and flywheels will fit on.

In fact, in the below hyperlinks that I have posted, you will see what I mean. Look at the part numbers in the first hyperlink (exedy stage I clutch) and note that the part numbers for the 2002-2008 civic si is the same as the part number for a rsx (base and type S) with a k20a2:

http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/Clutch_Specifications

Now, compare these following part numbers (for the Exedy Lightweight racing flywheel), and notice that for the rsx (base and type S) match up with the one for the Civic Si:

http://www.exedyusa.com/oe/Clutch_Specifications

:thumbu:Good on you for asking. What you have asked is by no means a stupid question. In fact, I had this very SAME question that you had when I swapped my clutch and flywheel out to a Exedy Stage 1 and LW flywheel about 4 months ago.:mbiggrin:

Good luck with the swap. We will be here to help you!

[fdnyjon]

Thanks guys for the input!! Yea, i wasn't too sure about them fitting but i did notice that they were the same for k series. Thanks so much for the clearing the info. I have a stage 1 Exedy coming in right now and I told my mechanic to order up an Exedy lightweight flywheel as well :)


Also is there anything else I should change while the tranny is open?

THANKS!

[sistealth02]

If you are installing the clutch/flywheel yourself, make sure you swap out everything that comes in the clutch and flywheel kit (pilot bearing, throw out bearing, etc). Make sure you have a factory service manual (if you don't have one) and follow it step by step. This will ensure that you do everything the right way, and you will learn the most doing it this way. Make sure everything is torqued to spec. Usually what I do is I go through and double check all torque's on all bolts after I think I'm done torqueing (sometimes there are bolts you might've thought you torqued, but didn't).<<This is especially important when you are installing the clutch onto the flywheel, and also when you are putting the transmission back on!

A good practice that I am use to (cuz I'm an aircraft mechanic), but you don't HAVE to do, is to replace old hardware (old nuts, bolts, etc.) The hardware that I would most strongly encourage you to replace when you do this job, is to replace all of your clutch pressure plate bolts, and your flywheel bolts. Make sure you use Loc-tite on these as well (the service manual will tell you to do this).
Any other bolts and nuts and whatever else that are rusted, corroded, cracked, broken, etc (if you can't get them clean) I would replace too. Corrosion eventually weakens metal. Here is a GREAT site to order hardware (THE honda site to get everything OEM for any Honda)... http://estore.honda.com/

Also...BEFORE you put the trasmission back on, make sure that the throw out bearing and the main shaft are lubricated (the service manual will tell you this and give you a specific high-temp grease to use). And make sure you clean all of the old dirt, and crud left over on the inside of the transmission case where the old clutch fibers were shooting everywhere (it will be like a black dust).<<Brake parts cleaner works very well for this.

The flywheel will come from Exedy with a sticky coating all over it (like somebody spilled Sprite or 7-up all over it). Make sure the flywheel gets cleaned of all of that, expecially on the teeth and the surface where it would contact with the clutch (the only shiny part). You can use brake parts cleaner as well.

Any more questionez, feel free to ask.

[fdnyjon]

If you are installing the clutch/flywheel yourself, make sure you swap out everything that comes in the clutch and flywheel kit (pilot bearing, throw out bearing, etc). Make sure you have a factory service manual (if you don't have one) and follow it step by step. This will ensure that you do everything the right way, and you will learn the most doing it this way. Make sure everything is torqued to spec. Usually what I do is I go through and double check all torque's on all bolts after I think I'm done torqueing (sometimes there are bolts you might've thought you torqued, but didn't).<<This is especially important when you are installing the clutch onto the flywheel, and also when you are putting the transmission back on!

A good practice that I am use to (cuz I'm an aircraft mechanic), but you don't HAVE to do, is to replace old hardware (old nuts, bolts, etc.) The hardware that I would most strongly encourage you to replace when you do this job, is to replace all of your clutch pressure plate bolts, and your flywheel bolts. Make sure you use Loc-tite on these as well (the service manual will tell you to do this).
Any other bolts and nuts and whatever else that are rusted, corroded, cracked, broken, etc (if you can't get them clean) I would replace too. Corrosion eventually weakens metal. Here is a GREAT site to order hardware (THE honda site to get everything OEM for any Honda)... http://estore.honda.com/

Also...BEFORE you put the trasmission back on, make sure that the throw out bearing and the main shaft are lubricated (the service manual will tell you this and give you a specific high-temp grease to use). And make sure you clean all of the old dirt, and crud left over on the inside of the transmission case where the old clutch fibers were shooting everywhere (it will be like a black dust).<<Brake parts cleaner works very well for this.

The flywheel will come from Exedy with a sticky coating all over it (like somebody spilled Sprite or 7-up all over it). Make sure the flywheel gets cleaned of all of that, expecially on the teeth and the surface where it would contact with the clutch (the only shiny part). You can use brake parts cleaner as well.

Any more questionez, feel free to ask.


I do all my work myself but the clutch might be better off being done by a specialist. I rather have it done the right way for sure! lol I will be helping him out and looking at the work while its being done because i want to have some sort of experience for the next time i change the clutch myself. The info you gave me is great. Thanks!

[fdnyjon]

If you are installing the clutch/flywheel yourself, make sure you swap out everything that comes in the clutch and flywheel kit (pilot bearing, throw out bearing, etc). Make sure you have a factory service manual (if you don't have one) and follow it step by step. This will ensure that you do everything the right way, and you will learn the most doing it this way. Make sure everything is torqued to spec. Usually what I do is I go through and double check all torque's on all bolts after I think I'm done torqueing (sometimes there are bolts you might've thought you torqued, but didn't).<<This is especially important when you are installing the clutch onto the flywheel, and also when you are putting the transmission back on!

A good practice that I am use to (cuz I'm an aircraft mechanic), but you don't HAVE to do, is to replace old hardware (old nuts, bolts, etc.) The hardware that I would most strongly encourage you to replace when you do this job, is to replace all of your clutch pressure plate bolts, and your flywheel bolts. Make sure you use Loc-tite on these as well (the service manual will tell you to do this).
Any other bolts and nuts and whatever else that are rusted, corroded, cracked, broken, etc (if you can't get them clean) I would replace too. Corrosion eventually weakens metal. Here is a GREAT site to order hardware (THE honda site to get everything OEM for any Honda)... http://estore.honda.com/

Also...BEFORE you put the trasmission back on, make sure that the throw out bearing and the main shaft are lubricated (the service manual will tell you this and give you a specific high-temp grease to use). And make sure you clean all of the old dirt, and crud left over on the inside of the transmission case where the old clutch fibers were shooting everywhere (it will be like a black dust).<<Brake parts cleaner works very well for this.

The flywheel will come from Exedy with a sticky coating all over it (like somebody spilled Sprite or 7-up all over it). Make sure the flywheel gets cleaned of all of that, expecially on the teeth and the surface where it would contact with the clutch (the only shiny part). You can use brake parts cleaner as well.

Any more questionez, feel free to ask.


Hey i have a question on my problem. Yesterday I jump started my car because the battery was dead. I then tried to see if the gears would engage and they did. So i took it for a light drive around the block and it drove pretty fine without any grinds or anything. The only thing that would happen was that it didnt want to go into third gear when driving and whenever i put it in first it would sound like the flywheel and clutch were rubbing together or something.. that sound would quickly go away once i drove off and let go of the clutch. The point is that the gears went in. Today i went to see if i could drive it to autozone but the gears didnt want to go in again.

The first day i noticed this was about a month ago when i decided to park it up and buy a clutch.

My cousin said something about the CMC being loose or something and not making contact. Also isnt the clutch fluid suppose to bubble up or move a little when you press in the clutch

Thanks.

[sistealth02]

Hey i have a question on my problem. Yesterday I jump started my car because the battery was dead. I then tried to see if the gears would engage and they did. So i took it for a light drive around the block and it drove pretty fine without any grinds or anything. The only thing that would happen was that it didnt want to go into third gear when driving and whenever i put it in first it would sound like the flywheel and clutch were rubbing together or something.. that sound would quickly go away once i drove off and let go of the clutch. The point is that the gears went in. Today i went to see if i could drive it to autozone but the gears didnt want to go in again.

The first day i noticed this was about a month ago when i decided to park it up and buy a clutch.

My cousin said something about the CMC being loose or something and not making contact. Also isnt the clutch fluid suppose to bubble up or move a little when you press in the clutch

Thanks.

How wore out is your clutch? This sounds like it could be a number of things.

When you say "the gears didn't want to go in" are you saying that when you shifted, the car wouldn't shift into the next gear or what, like, you couldn't move the shifter? If that's the case, then you might want to check your shifter cable connections to make sure they are connected, also while you are at it, check your shifter cable for damage.

The fluid in the clutch might go down a little bit, but it shouldn't bubble. That sounds like you might have air in your clutch line. Since you said it sounds like the f/w and the clutch are rubbing against one another but not engaging, there may not be enough hydraulic pressure against the clutch (due to the air in the system) to engage against the flywheel properly. You might want to try and bleed your clutch line. If that doesn't seem to do anything, you may want to adjust your clutch pedal, and make it engage closer to the floorboard.

Let me know.

[fdnyjon]

How wore out is your clutch? This sounds like it could be a number of things.

When you say "the gears didn't want to go in" are you saying that when you shifted, the car wouldn't shift into the next gear or what, like, you couldn't move the shifter? If that's the case, then you might want to check your shifter cable connections to make sure they are connected, also while you are at it, check your shifter cable for damage.

The fluid in the clutch might go down a little bit, but it shouldn't bubble. That sounds like you might have air in your clutch line. Since you said it sounds like the f/w and the clutch are rubbing against one another but not engaging, there may not be enough hydraulic pressure against the clutch (due to the air in the system) to engage against the flywheel properly. You might want to try and bleed your clutch line. If that doesn't seem to do anything, you may want to adjust your clutch pedal, and make it engage closer to the floorboard.

Let me know.


Idk for sure but it doesn't grind when changing into any gear.

When i say it doesnt want to go into gear i mean when i turn the car on and when i go to put it into first it doesn't go in and the idle drops a bit. The gears go in perfectly when the car is off. I havent checked the cables but i did make sure that they move lol My clutch came in already im just waiting on the flywheel. I have decided to do the install myself since money is tight right now lol

When i drove it the other day the clutch felt the same as it always did. It takes off perfectly and rides pretty smoothly. It just has difficulty getting into third and i have to rev it so it enters.

Should i just change the clutch since I already have it? Or do you think its something minor?

Thanks

[rd02SiR]

Idk for sure but it doesn't grind when changing into any gear.

When i say it doesnt want to go into gear i mean when i turn the car on and when i go to put it into first it doesn't go in and the idle drops a bit. The gears go in perfectly when the car is off. I havent checked the cables but i did make sure that they move lol My clutch came in already im just waiting on the flywheel. I have decided to do the install myself since money is tight right now lol

When i drove it the other day the clutch felt the same as it always did. It takes off perfectly and rides pretty smoothly. It just has difficulty getting into third and i have to rev it so it enters.

Should i just change the clutch since I already have it? Or do you think its something minor?

Thanks

I had similar problems last year that is very similar to you.

Car on- will not go into any gear. Clutch pedal still had pressure.

Car off- went into every gear, clutch or not.

Towed to the shop and tore apart. The part that holds the springs in the clutch fell apart. I had about 175xxxkm on OEM clutch. The piece that fell apart was pushing in the flywheel, iirc, and had put just enough pressure to not be able to go in gear while car was on.

The clutch surface was pretty much all worn out with only a few mm left. So I guess it was pretty much a decent time to change it.

If it were me, and since you already have the parts, I'd go ahead and swap the clutch and flywheel.

I went with a K20A2 specific clutch and flywheel. Act streetlite fly and exedy OEM replacement I believe.


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[fdnyjon]

I had similar problems last year that is very similar to you.

Car on- will not go into any gear. Clutch pedal still had pressure.

Car off- went into every gear, clutch or not.

Towed to the shop and tore apart. The part that holds the springs in the clutch fell apart. I had about 175xxxkm on OEM clutch. The piece that fell apart was pushing in the flywheel, iirc, and had put just enough pressure to not be able to go in gear while car was on.

The clutch surface was pretty much all worn out with only a few mm left. So I guess it was pretty much a decent time to change it.

If it were me, and since you already have the parts, I'd go ahead and swap the clutch and flywheel.

I went with a K20A2 specific clutch and flywheel. Act streetlite fly and exedy OEM replacement I believe.


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Oh i see.. sheesh mad miles lol, well since i found out my clutch positioning sensor was loose when i was wiring up my fogs.. due to race motor mounts i guess.. I started adjusting it and guess what! It went into gear and i could drive it again! lol Well it still wines a bit but i think thats just because im still not adjusting it properly. Tomorrow i will do the whole adjustment process like the manual says. I also started driving in second gear and it caught on perfectly so that pretty much means my clutch is still good correct?

As for the clutch i have.. Idk if i should just install it now or wait a lil longer. I also ordered the Exedy lightweight flywheel yesterday but im going to see if i should just cancel it if i adjust the clutch back to normal

[sistealth02]

I had about 175xxxkm on OEM clutch.

lol....had to make sure you saw that one Jon...lol.

But yes, that would be about 108k miles. For a car that is tracked or autocrossed (if it was), that sounds like a typical, good mile count for a clutch. My OEM clutch finally gave out at just over 100k, with a few track weekends and a dozen autocross events on it.

[sistealth02]

Well it still wines a bit but i think thats just because im still not adjusting it properly. Tomorrow i will do the whole adjustment process like the manual says. I also started driving in second gear and it caught on perfectly so that pretty much means my clutch is still good correct?

As for the clutch i have.. Idk if i should just install it now or wait a lil longer. I also ordered the Exedy lightweight flywheel yesterday but im going to see if i should just cancel it if i adjust the clutch back to normal


Also, how many miles are on your clutch? If it has at least 80k miles on it and it hasn't been changed before, then I would go ahead and swap the clutch and flywheel out RIGHT MEEOOOWWWW!!! lol. The reason why I say this is because if you have a (fairly) new clutch, there is no sense in swapping it right now (unless you REAALLY want to upgrade, or want to track your car like crazy....it's a VERY nice upgrade though, no doubt). But if you are not in a hurry to upgrade it yet, and your clutch is in good shape, hold off on swapping it out for a little while, save some money, and then swap it out.

Since you said you're clutch was grabbing 2nd gear (and assuming all other gears) with no problems, and not slipping (motor speed (rpm's) were increasing, but vehicle speed wasn't increasing) it sounds like your clutch is healthy.

Let's see what happens when you finish adjusting that clutch position sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hopefully that wine goes away. :)

KEEP THE FLYWHEEL!!!! lol.

[fdnyjon]

Also, how many miles are on your clutch? If it has at least 80k miles on it and it hasn't been changed before, then I would go ahead and swap the clutch and flywheel out RIGHT MEEOOOWWWW!!! lol. The reason why I say this is because if you have a (fairly) new clutch, there is no sense in swapping it right now (unless you REAALLY want to upgrade, or want to track your car like crazy....it's a VERY nice upgrade though, no doubt). But if you are not in a hurry to upgrade it yet, and your clutch is in good shape, hold off on swapping it out for a little while, save some money, and then swap it out.

Since you said you're clutch was grabbing 2nd gear (and assuming all other gears) with no problems, and not slipping (motor speed (rpm's) were increasing, but vehicle speed wasn't increasing) it sounds like your clutch is healthy.

Let's see what happens when you finish adjusting that clutch position sensor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hopefully that wine goes away. :)

KEEP THE FLYWHEEL!!!! lol.


i adjusted the clutch to manual specifications but it still was chattering. I also contacted Exedy and they told me it sounds like the clutch is about done.. I adjusted the clutch to the max it could be adjusted. :( I dont get it though becuase it still grabs in second gear

[sistealth02]

i adjusted the clutch to manual specifications but it still was chattering. I also contacted Exedy and they told me it sounds like the clutch is about done.. I adjusted the clutch to the max it could be adjusted. :( I dont get it though becuase it still grabs in second gear

It may be so that your clutch is kaputt. If i were you, I would call Inline4, and talk to Brandon or one of the other guys there about your clutch issue. Those guys are top notch, and know what the hell they are talking about.

Some of those Exedy tech people aren't the brightest light bulbs in the bunch, if you know what I mean. One of the guys from Exedy told me that the clutch and flywheel that I was thinking about ordering (which I did order, and install and it runs perfectly), told me that the flywheel and clutch wouldn't fit together. When I did my own research, and what I found proved him wrong, and I sent him with an email showing him that their OWN website contradicts what he told me....needless to say, i did not receive an email back from him. lol.

A little bit of research goes a long way. lol.

But yea, your clutch is probably bad, and like I said, give Inline4 a call. Talk to Brandon, or one of his mechanics.

[fdnyjon]

It may be so that your clutch is kaputt. If i were you, I would call Inline4, and talk to Brandon or one of the other guys there about your clutch issue. Those guys are top notch, and know what the hell they are talking about.

Some of those Exedy tech people aren't the brightest light bulbs in the bunch, if you know what I mean. One of the guys from Exedy told me that the clutch and flywheel that I was thinking about ordering (which I did order, and install and it runs perfectly), told me that the flywheel and clutch wouldn't fit together. When I did my own research, and what I found proved him wrong, and I sent him with an email showing him that their OWN website contradicts what he told me....needless to say, i did not receive an email back from him. lol.

A little bit of research goes a long way. lol.

But yea, your clutch is probably bad, and like I said, give Inline4 a call. Talk to Brandon, or one of his mechanics.



Lol he must of felt like a total retard haha

Yeah im just gonna bring it tomorrow to get it changed.. I received the lightweight flywheel today and im going to pick up the clutch at my friends shop soon. Hopefully all goes well so i can get Rachel back on the road! :)

[sistealth02]

Lol he must of felt like a total retard haha

Yeah im just gonna bring it tomorrow to get it changed.. I received the lightweight flywheel today and im going to pick up the clutch at my friends shop soon. Hopefully all goes well so i can get Rachel back on the road! :)

So, are u gonna do the clutch/fw job urself or have ur mechanic do it?

[fdnyjon]

So, are u gonna do the clutch/fw job urself or have ur mechanic do it?

I was going to do it myself but as i looked at the steps i decided no thanks lol Ima have a mechanic do it for 350. is that a good price??

[sleepy ep3]

Exedy clutches are overrated. Buy a competition or clutch masters.

[sistealth02]

I was going to do it myself but as i looked at the steps i decided no thanks lol Ima have a mechanic do it for 350. is that a good price??

Yea, that actually sounds like a good price. I've seen that most places will charge up towards the $800 range to swap a clutch.....I sure hope he knows what he's getting himself into. lol. The entire front subframe has to be dropped in order to drop the tranny just to get to the clutch...lol.

[fdnyjon]

Yea, that actually sounds like a good price. I've seen that most places will charge up towards the $800 range to swap a clutch.....I sure hope he knows what he's getting himself into. lol. The entire front subframe has to be dropped in order to drop the tranny just to get to the clutch...lol.

Yeah he knows it has to be dropped lol He said that's the best price he can give me. He is a good friend of one of my best friends lol

[fdnyjon]

Exedy clutches are overrated. Buy a competition or clutch masters.

I already bought the Exedy's lol Im pretty sure they are all almost the same thing though

[rd02SiR]

How is exedy over rated? They make OEM clutches for many car manufactures. Our stock clutch from factory is an exedy.


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[fdnyjon]

really? I didnt know that

[sistealth02]

really? I didnt know that

Yea, Exedy (formerly known as Daikin) is based out of Michigan (my home state!!!)....and pretty much all honda's utilized Daikin OEM clutches.

[fdnyjon]

Nice!

Tomorrow's the big day!! lol My friends mechanic is taking too long so I went around to a few shops to check pricing and to see how legit the spots were and I finally found one im comfortable with. I got a good deal at $300 for tomorrow morning :)

[sistealth02]

Nice!

Tomorrow's the big day!! lol My friends mechanic is taking too long so I went around to a few shops to check pricing and to see how legit the spots were and I finally found one im comfortable with. I got a good deal at $300 for tomorrow morning :)

You mean it's taking him too long to do the work on your car, or to give you an answer on if he's gonna do it or not?

[fdnyjon]

You mean it's taking him too long to do the work on your car, or to give you an answer on if he's gonna do it or not?

Oops, i posted the clutch comment on the other thread instead of this one.. He was taking too long with the clutch and on doing the job.. Plus he got the wrong clutch -_- He ordered an OEM instead of Stage 1.

[tinman5]

I am pretty sure Exedy/Daikin is based out if Japan and are in fact one of the largest clutch manufacturers on the planet as well as being one if (if not THE) premier OEM suppliers.

Their twin and triple disc clutches should be used for competitive use over any single disc stage that is offered especially for boosted applications. When all else fails, call Southbend. Custom clutches are the way to go.

[sistealth02]

I am pretty sure Exedy/Daikin is based out if Japan and are in fact one of the largest clutch manufacturers on the planet as well as being one if (if not THE) premier OEM suppliers.

Their twin and triple disc clutches should be used for competitive use over any single disc stage that is offered especially for boosted applications. When all else fails, call Southbend. Custom clutches are the way to go.

Good call on Exedy's headquarters being in Japan...I misread it....the US HEADQUARTERS is in Michigan. Ma bad.

[tinman5]

Nah, no worries. Driving over the road, its amazing sometimes where you end up and what your hauling.

[sistealth02]

He ordered an OEM instead of Stage 1.

-________-