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View Full Version : DIY: Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC) Replacement, Ton O Pics!



MajorJones
07-08-2012, 09:16 PM
Replaced my CMC today and would have never been able to without this DIY. All the credit goes to Reborn on CRSX for creating the DIY.

This is a picture-heavy DIY guide intended for noobs. Everything is included. Check out some other useful guides as well as this one before tackling the job.

Guide 1 (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=597402)

Guide 2 (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=718462)


Start underneath the driverís cockpit. Remove the plastic cover by turning the knob 90 degrees in either direction and yanking the cover.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362600&stc=1&d=1330799763


Now you need to disconnect the clutch master cylinder (CMC) from the clutch pedal. I am pointing at the rod of the CMC that connects to the pedal (my finger is resting on the pedal).

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362601&stc=1&d=1330799763


Hereís a shot from a different angle, showing the pin that is in the pedal pin. You want to grab the bottom part (most right part in this picture, the triangular section) with some pliers, turn 90 degrees away from you (see what I sketched in the next pic) and pull down towards the floor of the car. Itíll come right out with this technique.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362602&stc=1&d=1330799763

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362603&stc=1&d=1330799763


Once the lock pin is out, just push the pedal pin out of the yoke. Itíll slide right out.

Lock Pin:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362604&stc=1&d=1330799763

MajorJones
07-08-2012, 09:17 PM
Pedal Pin:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362605&stc=1&d=1330799912


Now the rod of the CMC is off the pedal. Itís time to unbolt the CMC from the firewall. There are 2 nuts (14mm) that you need to remove. They are located on either side of the clutch pedal. Iíve circled 1 nut in this photo, and pointing at the other (not visible).

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362606&stc=1&d=1330799912

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362607&stc=1&d=1330799912

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362608&stc=1&d=1330799912

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362609&stc=1&d=1330799912

MajorJones
07-08-2012, 09:18 PM
Now you can move over to the engine bay. First, remove the battery. Remove the 10 mm nut holding the tie down to the radiator support. Loosen the 10mm nuts on each terminal. Get the wires/leads out of the way and pull the battery out. Also remove the battery tray (below the battery) – yank the thick wire coming out of the positive lead out of the little holding groove first.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362610&stc=1&d=1330800034


Now you need to remove the airbox. Remove the little rubber plug at the top right of the box (when viewing from the front of the car). Remove the 12 mm bolt underneath it.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362611&stc=1&d=1330800034

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362612&stc=1&d=1330800034


There is 1 nut and 1 bolt on the left side (12 mm). Remove them as well.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362613&stc=1&d=1330800034

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362614&stc=1&d=1330800034

MajorJones
07-08-2012, 09:19 PM
Use a Phillips head to loosen this tie down

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362615&stc=1&d=1330800166


Use pliers to loosen and move this tie down. I just slide it to the left until it is off the plastic nipple of the airbox – basically move it left more than half way.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362616&stc=1&d=1330800166


Now pull the airbox out, slipping the rubber pieces shown in the above 2 pictures off.

Now remove the snorkel. You can either remove the single nut or the 2 little ones holding the bracket to the radiator support. I removed the 2 little ones and removed the whole bracket to make sure the studs of the bracket didn’t cut up my arm while I’m working later.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362617&stc=1&d=1330800166


Now figure out the whole clutch system by tracing the lines, starting with the reservoir (the smaller reservoir pictured here, the other one is for the brake system). From the reservoir, there is one line (I’m holding it) that goes to the CMC – this is the input line. The CMC is tucked behind the strut at the firewall.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362618&stc=1&d=1330800166


In the picture below, the hardline I’m holding is the one coming out of the CMC – this is the output line.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362619&stc=1&d=1330800166

MajorJones
07-08-2012, 09:20 PM
Further down the output line. See that bracket holding it to the frame (circled in red)? Remove the nut holding that bracket to the frame. You will also notice that at that point, there is a half circle of soft line, before it then turns back into a hard line. This soft line provides the flexibility needed (once you remove that bracket from the frame) to easily maneuver the CMC out of the tucked away position. There are pictures of the remaining lines all the way to the clutch slave cylinder in my DIY guide for removing the clutch slave cylinder (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=813666).

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362621&stc=1&d=1330800320


Here is a schematic to also help you trace the lines.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362622&stc=1&d=1330800320


Now that you have some flexibility, pull the CMC into the visible view of the engine bay. Remove the input line (soft line) by opening the clamp with some pliers and pulling it off the nipple on the CMC. Leave the clamp on the line, plug the line with a shop towel, and hold it upward to prevent losing fluid. The less fluid you lose, the easier it will be to bleed because there will be less air in the system. I did the job alone, so my macguyver method of holding the line up is shown below.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362623&stc=1&d=1330800320


Remove the output line (hard line) by pulling the C clip out of the bracket and pulling the line out of the CMC. Again, plug the line with a shop towel to avoid losing fluid.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362624&stc=1&d=1330800320

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362625&stc=1&d=1330800320

MajorJones
07-08-2012, 09:20 PM
Now you can remove the CMC.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362626&stc=1&d=1330800449


New vs. old CMC. Old is the oem rsx piece, new is the 01-05 civic piece. Notice the missing triangular piece on the civic unit. This is believed to be the culprit for early failure in the rsx units.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362627&stc=1&d=1330800449


Reverse the steps to install the new unit. If you are doing the clutch slave cylinder at the same time, then remove that. After you are finished, you need to bleed the clutch system Ė described in my DIY guide for removing the clutch slave cylinder. (http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=813666)

After installing a new CMC, you will need to adjust the pedal position as well. This is straightforward, just follow the helms.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362628&stc=1&d=1330800449


For reference, here is the helms for the CMC removal.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362629&stc=1&d=1330800449

http://forums.clubrsx.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=362630&stc=1&d=1330800449

SAX JONZ
05-27-2015, 06:55 AM
Major Jones! Thanks bro. I am headed to the track and my car is in paint shop. Won't be done till tomorrow or Friday.:mfrown: So the only way I am going to get it right and make Gingerman on time is to go tomorrow to the shop and let the guy know that I need to perform surgery on her while she's in the shop because it won't be ready otherwise. It would be nice to have a rack to work under. I am going to have to invest in one soon if I keep working on my stuff. One that I can do a alignments on. :mtongue: Dream land right now but maybe if I learn how to do these alignments I can make that money back to pay off the equipment eventually.
Thanks again. You made my day that much easier. Not to say that I wouldn't have done it by myself as easy but it is nice to watch a porno before your first time.

Her-Name's-Ally
05-29-2015, 10:24 AM
very good write up! I may need this one day.

Eddie Murphy
01-04-2017, 09:51 AM
em2 CMC and ep3 CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER ASSY (PARTS NUMBERS)

https://scontent-atl3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/18057631_10210505315202154_4415753101124444524_n.j pg?oh=567a763d93d9d30230cf8063aa565748&oe=5979D867

Hondy
11-22-2017, 12:51 AM
great info. thanks for sharing

Mindymarie
09-23-2018, 12:12 PM
Thank you. You just saved my life!!!!