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View Full Version : Replacing LCA bushings, should I also replace the ball joints?



ryboto
07-30-2012, 06:28 AM
I've got a set of front Energy Suspension bushings I'll be installing soon, and I imagine I'll have to remove the control arm to get the OEMs out. I've watched a video on how to do it which was linked to in a thread on here. In the thread someone suggested replacing the ball joints. I have 120k on the originals, is this necessary? If so, should I just get OEM replacements? People suggested MOOG ball joints, but I'd rather not have to re-grease them periodically.

Thanks.

DA9_GSR
07-30-2012, 06:40 AM
I've got a set of front Energy Suspension bushings I'll be installing soon, and I imagine I'll have to remove the control arm to get the OEMs out. I've watched a video on how to do it which was linked to in a thread on here. In the thread someone suggested replacing the ball joints. I have 120k on the originals, is this necessary? If so, should I just get OEM replacements? People suggested MOOG ball joints, but I'd rather not have to re-grease them periodically.

Thanks.

I've done quite a few ES bushing installs. The reason people might replace their balljoints is because in order to remove the front LCA's you have to separate the balljoint stud out of the LCA hole. This doesn't usually go very well without damaging the balljoint. The way that works best for me is to leave the balljoint nut on a few threads (to prevent smashing the threads on the balljoint) and hit the LCA with a rubber mallet downwards to free them apart. Once it's free remove the balljoint nut.

The next battle is the sway bar end links. You should get a pair of needlenose locking pliers. Clamp the inside of the end link and loosen the 14mm nut. You won't be able to remove them using the Allen key. They almost always "round out".

Aside from these two point, everything else is cake. Remove the two long bolts on each side and the arms are out.

GL

ryboto
07-30-2012, 06:45 AM
Thanks!

jared07
07-30-2012, 06:47 AM
I would replace them...like DA9 said you might damage them (boots tear) and they would be shot not too long after....the moog's have a zerk fitting on them so you CAN add grease to them, not many others do. That being said, once the grease wears out of stock/aftermarket non greasable units your fd.

If you are really low consider inverted tie rod ends, moves steering arm lower, creating better geometry in your suspension.

jared

ryboto
07-30-2012, 07:48 AM
I would replace them...like DA9 said you might damage them (boots tear) and they would be shot not too long after....the moog's have a zerk fitting on them so you CAN add grease to them, not many others do. That being said, once the grease wears out of stock/aftermarket non greasable units your fd.

If you are really low consider inverted tie rod ends, moves steering arm lower, creating better geometry in your suspension.

jared

Well, then the question becomes how often should they be greased? My stock ball joints don't appear to be causing any issues after all this time, wouldn't it be possible a set of honda replacements would work just as well?

jared07
07-30-2012, 08:27 AM
I check/grease mine whenever i have my wheels off just cause. STOCK stuff lasted me 120K miles and the only reason i replace them is because my boots tore during coilover installation, that being said im sure there are people running stock stuff 200k+ miles easily. The thing is, they do wear no matter what and replacing them will always help...its like oil changes, you could do it every 1500 miles if you wanted to but needed no, but couldnt hurt. Alignment might be needed after install unless you get them spot on.

DA9_GSR
07-30-2012, 08:35 AM
I would replace them...like DA9 said you might damage them (boots tear) and they would be shot not too long after....the moog's have a zerk fitting on them so you CAN add grease to them, not many others do. That being said, once the grease wears out of stock/aftermarket non greasable units your fd.

If you are really low consider inverted tie rod ends, moves steering arm lower, creating better geometry in your suspension.

jared

I've run into issues of the zerk grease fittings hitting the axle.

Blue03Si
07-30-2012, 08:52 AM
Well your options for ball joints are limited to the aftermarket, you can't buy them from Honda/Acura..... Well you can, but you need to buy a whole new knuckle assembly. I think you should be ok with any aftermarket ball joint, if you're lowered quite a bit I'd look into the Roll Center Adjusting ball joints. Buddy club has them and I think a few others as well. Just be warned the energy suspension bushings need to be re-greased periodically. For me that ended up being about 2.5 years, but you'll end up disassembling your entire suspension again to get the control arm's off to get the bushings out for re-greasing. You'll know when its time, your suspension will squeak/moan/groan over the slightest bump. Good luck.

ryboto
07-30-2012, 11:11 AM
I'm on HFP suspension, when i finally replace them I'll go Mugen SS, or Progressive, both aren't a huge drop from stock or much different from the HFP from what I understand. I will probably buy the Moog joints.

ryboto
07-31-2012, 03:34 PM
Considering making a new thread...Been reading about LCAs and saw the ITR LCAs + front Sway is recommended by some. What would be the reason for that? I read that it would give a 10mm wider stance per wheel, is that the only reason?

Blue03Si
07-31-2012, 03:43 PM
Considering making a new thread...Been reading about LCAs and saw the ITR LCAs + front Sway is recommended by some. What would be the reason for that? I read that it would give a 10mm wider stance per wheel, is that the only reason?

It won't change your stance. Its just lighter and has harder rubber bushings than stock. If you want a wider stance you'll need lower offset wheels.

ryboto
08-03-2012, 02:43 PM
So, I'm just going to go with the Duralast ball joints...but should I also replace the tie-rod ends? How long are those usually good for?