Coilover option?

[larryo108]

I hate these generic questions and I am sorry that I must pose this one. I have a 2003 Si lowered on Tokico D-Specs and Skunk2 springs by the previous owner. It is way low and I like the way it looks. but can't stand the ride. I have always scraped exhaust and I am cool with that, but I just moved into a new rental house this weekend that has a hideous driveway and I am now scraping frame. That I am not comfortable with. I would like to raise the car back up, but not necessarily to stock height. Are there any coilovers that will provide me with a drop somewhere between stock and the extreme skunk2 spring drop (2.25" front/2" rear). I am running on 15" GSR fat 5 rims (after I traded away the 17" the previous owner had) with 195/65/15 tires (stock size).

Finally, as usual I am trying to spend as little as possible. I don't want to keep this car much longer, but may be stuck with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[cow]

Aren't the Skunk2 springs in fact an adjustable sleeve? I seem to remember people creaming their pants for them back when as they were the first "holy balls that's low" option for the car.

[larryo108]

I believe skunk2 does have a sleeve over option like the ground control, but I don't have those. I have a traditional lowering spring. No option to adjust ride height. It is "holy balls low" and I love the look, but the practicality of the car has been reduced greatly. Thanks for the input. Any options on true coilovers. I just took a quick look and saw the Buddy Club N+ for a little over 1K on Corsport. Would these be a good option? Is there a complete list of all the available options for these cars? Sorry for the newb questions. Thanks again in advance.

[poeticfinesse21]

I don't want to keep this car much longer, but may be stuck with it.

:gtfo:

Seriously though look into some used eibach pro-kit or tein h-tech springs. Cheapest option would be stock 02-04 RSX springs or stock EP3 springs

[Her-Name's-Ally]

I have an eibach pro kit BNIB

[larryo108]

:gtfo:

Seriously though look into some used eibach pro-kit or tein h-tech springs. Cheapest option would be stock 02-04 RSX springs or stock EP3 springs

Hahahaha. Thanks poetic. It's not that I don't like the car. I am just getting too old for it. No offense intended to you, the car, or the forum.

I have thought about used Eibach springs, but for all of the hassle of installing those and new top mounts etc, etc, etc I am thinking I may want to go coilovers. Like I said, I don't want the car, but fear I will be stuck with it for a while. And if I am going to be stuck with it, I would rather be comfortable and have fun driving it. Thanks for the input though.

I did find a sticky with some spring and drop rate info, but it seems out of date. Any further help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[poeticfinesse21]

Look around on clubrsx.com for a used DC5-R suspension or a used A-spec suspension. It's only about a 0.75" drop, only slightly stiffer than stock and a noticeable difference in performance over stock. Oh and it also comes fully assembled, you just need RSX tie rod ends and do some shaving to the rear shock bushings. Another decent option if you're just looking for stock replacements is raceland or rokkor coilovers but I think you have to reuse your tophats.

[black05ep]

Our vendor ssr has a basic full coilover for less than half the buddy clubs. The ride quality is great. Performance is good as well. I have them on my car. Love them. Will upgrade in the future though. But great for the price.

[larryo108]

Our vendor ssr has a basic full coilover for less than half the buddy clubs. The ride quality is great. Performance is good as well. I have them on my car. Love them. Will upgrade in the future though. But great for the price.

Do you have a link? By SSR I am assuming you are refering to SpeedStar Racing. I took a look and they have Buddy Club, Tanabe, HKS, Tein, etc, but I didn't see the set you were refering to. I am assuming that you use stock tophats as well?

[theMan_ny]

Do you have a link? By SSR I am assuming you are refering to SpeedStar Racing. I took a look and they have Buddy Club, Tanabe, HKS, Tein, etc, but I didn't see the set you were refering to. I am assuming that you use stock tophats as well?
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?69566-SSR-Basic-Full-Coilovers

[cow]

Do you have a link? By SSR I am assuming you are refering to SpeedStar Racing. I took a look and they have Buddy Club, Tanabe, HKS, Tein, etc, but I didn't see the set you were refering to. I am assuming that you use stock tophats as well?
I think he's referencing these.
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?69566-SSR-Basic-Full-Coilovers&highlight=

[black05ep]

Yes these are what i was talking about. Sorry for the confusion. They arent posted on their site..they are fantastoc though. I do plan o. Upgrading in the future.but for the price they are great.pics of my car and review are on the thread.

[larryo108]

Thank you all. I will consider them. It appears they are out of stock at the moment, so I will have a couple of weeks to think about it. I have been doing some searching for recommendations on other options. I am not averse to spending about 1k for a set, just not looking to go super extreme with a 2k+ set. Any recommendations on a set in the 1k range?

[b_ron]

buddy club n+, bc racing type br, function and form type2, D2, ksport, megan

[poeticfinesse21]

A-spec kit (comes fully assembled with new tophats) $650 brand new from curryacura + RSX tie rod ends $50. In my opinion the best set-up for daily driving and some performance. Once the shocks go you can just replace them with konis or bilsteins. If you really have your heart set on coilovers then for under $1000 look into either progress or megan street. I strongly recommend getting RSX-specific coilovers though, the spring rates on EP3 coils always suck compared to the RSX versions.

[larryo108]

I have been seeing a lot about the progress coils. Do these come with pillowball mounts or do I reuse my tophats? The photos I have seen have what looks to be a pillowball, but it is hard to tell.

[Blah1219]

Cheapest as possible? Able to pick your own height? Racelands.

/threadclosed

[larryo108]

Wasn't necessarily going for THE cheapest, just did not want the most expensive. I do have my heart set on coilovers, for better or for worse. I have done a lot of reading and looking around today and am thinking of three sets. Progress. Buddy Club N+. BC Racing BR. I am not trying to slam it, just want to lower it, have it be relatively comfortable, have pillowball mounts, and most of all not scrape when pulling into the driveway. So with that in mind, what would your recommendation be? I know a lot of this is up to personal preference, blah, blah, blah. And most of all I want something dependable. I want to install them, set them, align the car and forget about them. Any final input and help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again in advance.

[poeticfinesse21]

Here's my question, if you just want to "set it and forget it" then why do you want coilovers with pillowball mounts? People who want coilovers with pillowballs typically want them so they can adjust height, stiffness and camber in the front. It sounds to me like a shocks/springs combo might be better for what you want. Once again, I recommend you look into the a-spec suspension...or get some koni or bilstein shocks and pair them with some 02-04 RSX-spec eibach pro-kit springs, you will be surprised how much better the car handles.

[lemonhead228]

From the looks of the thread, it seems he just want comfort and a little drop. I don't think he cares about handling.

For you my friend, get the bc n+, they're damper adjustable which means you can control the stiffness.

From the review I read, they can be stiff as mugen ss to soft as stock. So it's great for a daily cuz you can tune it to where you like and forget about it like you said

Good luck with your pick.

[larryo108]

Well I wouldn't say I don't care about handling, but certainly not looking to track it. That said, a spirited drive in the mountains from time to time is a possibility. I do like the adjustability that coilovers offer because who knows if I will change my mind down the road and decide to slam it again. I like having that option. I have read the same reviews about the n+. I am leaning that way, but I am unclear whether they include pillowball mounts. I know it has the option for it, but I am not sure if they are included in what I would get from a corsport or if they would be a separate purchase. Thanks again guys.

Also, poetic specifically, thanks for all of your help and recommendations dude. I truly appreciate it and I hear what you are trying to tell me. But I have my heart set on coilovers for the future flexibility. For better or for worse. Thanks again dude.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

how about megans or tien ss?

[larryo108]

how about megans or tien ss?

I don't think I want to go with Megan's because of the straight arm design. I already have the ClubRSX 0857 steering bracket relocator on the car. I fear once I have the coilovers and have the car only lowered about an inch, the Megan's straight arm design would be less than useful with the steering bracket relocator.

I just looked at the tien ss on SSR and they are $1200 without the pillowball mounts. I would like to keep it around 1K WITH pillowballs. 1200 being my upper range. I think the three I noted would be in this price range. I am just trying to determine which if any include the pillowball mounts.

[poeticfinesse21]

I would say the megan street coilovers are your best bet, $880 shipped with pillow ball mounts. The newer design does not have the straight steering arm anymore: http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2728
You'll just need RSX tie rod ends and shave the rear shock bushings about 2mm or 3mm on each shock, that's all under $1000.

[lemonhead228]

The Mugen ss are a great option if you want an inch drop and a set and forget kinda thing. I have them on my car for 40k and they still ride like the first day I put them in. It's okay for dd and great for handling. Kind stiff in the beginning but I got use to it quick. And don't forget, Mugen are quality parts and you can find a use set for around 600- 700

[larryo108]

I would say the megan street coilovers are your best bet, $880 shipped with pillow ball mounts. The newer design does not have the straight steering arm anymore: http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2728
You'll just need RSX tie rod ends and shave the rear shock bushings about 2mm or 3mm on each shock, that's all under $1000.

Thanks poetic. I had read about the new design, but don't the tie-rods now connect at the bottom of the arm rather than the top? Would that screw up the steering with the afore-mentioned steering bracket? I am just worried that if I only plan to lower the car an inch for now, that with the relocator bracket and the arms with less angle and essentially reverse tie-rod ends, I am going to far the other way. Am I thinking about this wrong? I do like the price and it seems that Megan has built themselves a nice reputation. I am most concerned about the tie-rods and screwing that up. Finally, is there a DIY for shaving the rear shock bushings?

[Her-Name's-Ally]

http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2127

if you use code bc5%off in the promo code you will save $58 makes it just over $1100

[Her-Name's-Ally]

you should also consider these for the drop. People talk masa on them but they are yolked.
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6016
they are next on my list
promo code still applies.

[poeticfinesse21]

Thanks poetic. I had read about the new design, but don't the tie-rods now connect at the bottom of the arm rather than the top? Would that screw up the steering with the afore-mentioned steering bracket? I am just worried that if I only plan to lower the car an inch for now, that with the relocator bracket and the arms with less angle and essentially reverse tie-rod ends, I am going to far the other way. Am I thinking about this wrong? I do like the price and it seems that Megan has built themselves a nice reputation. I am most concerned about the tie-rods and screwing that up. Finally, is there a DIY for shaving the rear shock bushings?

I'm not sure about the tie rods, I thought they connected the normal way. As far as the rear shock bushings, as long as you have a grinder it shouldn't take more than 30 min max. Check out the A-spec DIY for info in the tie rods and the grinding: http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?59257-DIY-A-Spec-Suspension-on-ep3


you should also consider these for the drop. People talk masa on them but they are yolked.
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6016
they are next on my list
promo code still applies.

I'd rather get the hardrace ball joints due to this quote from myself:

Shouldn't be a problem but make sure you DO NOT get the ball joints for the DC5-R. They WILL NOT fit into your lower control arm, the stud for the ball joint has a larger diameter. I would recommend the hardrace ball joints over the buddy clubs due to this quote from honda-tech:

the lower balljoint is not sold by its self from honda/acura.....it is a "cold fit" part....the balljoint is dipped in liquid Nitrogen and slipped into the cast knuckel....If you get a replacement balljoint( there are a bunch around if you search the interwebs), get one with a snapring to hold in the place as once you press the old balljoint out of the knuckel, the fit will not be as tight as a stock cold fit
Buddy clubs DO NOT come with the snap rings which sounds a little shady to me. How the hell is the ball joint going to stay in place with all the abuse of daily driving, not to mention autocross or track? Most buddy club products are amazing but no snap ring just sounds unsafe.


I've read on clubrsx that the buddy clubs weren't a "perfect fit" for some people and there was some slight play in the knuckle. Not to mention that they tend to break easily on the track or autox

[Her-Name's-Ally]

Yeah I know thats what a lot of people say but my buddy is putting em on his setup and hes not had a problem yet. I want to see how they ride but I will probably end up with these. probably moved around in the kunckle cause they werent pressed in right or they were the wrong ones.

[larryo108]

http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2127

if you use code bc5%off in the promo code you will save $58 makes it just over $1100

Does these include the pillowball mounts? Something I read seemed to indicate otherwise. I am considering RCA's at the same time.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

Yes Sir... Idk shit about those to be honest. Someone is selling some red ones for $100 on here. Pick em up.
you will fall in love with your ep in no time

edit: You can always call corsport and verify with them

[larryo108]

Can you send me a link? I looked through all of the classifieds and did see any coilovers for sale. I am really thinking about spending a little cabbage to get some decent coilovers for the EP, since I don't think I can afford the vehicle that I really want. Thanks again for all of the help fellas. I will let you know what happens.

[EP3NICO]

pm'd

[poeticfinesse21]

Honestly man, there's not much difference between most coilovers under $2000. Even the buddy clubs are known to have a lot of problems, this is why I suggested the spring/shock combo. Think Ohlins coilovers, Bilstein B16 PSS9 coilovers, Tein Mono-Flex, Mugen N1, something along those lines. Another decent option under that is under $2000 would be the H&R Street coilovers, the dampers are made by bilstein.

[lemonhead228]

The Mugen ss are a great option if you want an inch drop and a set and forget kinda thing. I have them on my car for 40k and they still ride like the first day I put them in. It's okay for dd and great for handling. Kind stiff in the beginning but I got use to it quick. And don't forget, Mugen are quality parts and you can find a use set for around 600- 700

^ I would sell them for the right price lol

[larryo108]

I saw a set of the Ohlins on clubep3 for sale, but they are gone already. Unfortunately.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?69968-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-Bare-Blocks-Seat-Bracket-and-Much-More/page2

[larryo108]

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?69968-Rear-Lower-Control-Arms-Bare-Blocks-Seat-Bracket-and-Much-More/page2

Thanks Ally. I thought you meant someone had Buddy Club's for sale. I did see the rear lower control arms, but by RCA's I meant roll center adjuster. Thanks again man.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

Fo show champ. check out those caster adjusters too. There is honestly to much damn stuff. Corsport is like a candy store for car parts.
Make sure you make a build thread

[antisocial]

I had Buddy Club RSD on my ep for 5 years. just took them off and installed BC Racing BR coilovers. got em for $950 shipped through Corsport. I was never impressed at all with the Buddy Club setup, and the N+ is a compromise of the RSD. The RSD spring rates are very high for a street car, and only outhandle the stock suspension if the road is perfectly smooth. My Buddy Clubs did have the steering arms lower than stock (a positive), but had no provisions for attaching the brake hose and ABS wire. I zip tied mine in place. For my $1500, I was disappointed.

The BC Racing have been on my car for about 3 weeks now, and I have driven about 1000 miles. The ride is similar to the RSD, but much more compliant on the street. IMO, they handle better than the RSD ever did on the street. The hardware on the BC Racing is nicer as well. As far as pushing the car to the limit, I haven't autocrossed yet, but on my favorite local twisty roads, they are a solid performer. It may be worth noting that I ordered custom spring rates for my BCs. I got 6k front, and 10k rear. Their original setup is 8k front, 10k rear. I would suggest getting either the softer front spring like I did, or get a 12k rear spring to go along with the 8k front. This will allow the front and rear suspension to work together better due to the difference in wheel motion ratio between the front and rear axles.

[larryo108]

Thanks for the reply anti. You have me seriously considering the BC Racing BR coils. Can you tell me what is the drop achievable. is 1"-4" or stock - 3". I can't find this info anywhere. Any additional input would be awesome.

Finally, is there anything in addition to the coils that I would need to install? Any stock parts that I will need. From what I read, the fronts come with pillowball mounts, but do I need anything for the rears? Thanks for the input.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

depending how low you go you may want to consider some camber, inverted tie rods and I was looking at j's racing RCAs or buddy clubs. I may go with the J's cause I havent seen anyone with them. May be willing to be the ginny pig.

[larryo108]

Thanks Ally. I already have the steering relocator bracket from club-rsx, so tie rods should be fine on mine. I am looking to only lower about an inch. I guess my main question was at their highest setting, is the car at stock height or something lower. I can't find that info for BC Racing anywhere. I know the Progress at the highest setting will give a 1" drop. The n+ I believe will go all the way up to stock height. Just curious where the BC Racing end up. If anyone knows or can direct me some place where I can find that, I would appreciate it.

[larryo108]

I ordered a set of BC Racing. Hope to have them before Thanksgiving. Now I am thinking I may want to replace my GSR Fat Fives with a polished 16" wheel. I am looking for something clean and simple. Like the Rota slips, but I can't find them anywhere. I know the slips a reproduction of the Spoon wheels. I am not above that as I have plenty of other things to spend money on. I would love to go with a 16x8 wheel, but I am concerned about rubbing and causing other problems. I certainly don't want crazy negative camber to fit the wheels. With all of that said, any suggestions?

[Her-Name's-Ally]

i have 17x8 45 offset and I fit fine with no camber...I am running 215s you should be fine with 225s also.

[poeticfinesse21]

Are you 5-lug or 4-lug? I'm looking into getting some 16x7 +40 konig feathers. They real look real good, only 15 lbs each and about $99 each online. I wouldn't mind something that's 16x7.5 or 16x8 but I haven't been able to find any 16" wheels wider than 7" that are 4-lug and don't have some crazy aggressive offset :mfrown:

[Her-Name's-Ally]

5 lug and yes go wider it will feel better. ifyou have to just camber a little like -1 in the front and -.5 in the back

[larryo108]

I am 4-lug. I would love polished. I might settle for silver or white, but trying to keep the car with just blue, silver, and red as far as colors go.

[larryo108]

I guess I could always by painted wheels and polish them myself, but don't think I want to deal with that hassle.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

what color is your car?
I love white wheels on pretty much every color car except euro yellow it just sucks keping em clean. I was my car like twice a week and sometimes I feel even thats not enough

[larryo108]

Vbp

[Her-Name's-Ally]

gunmetal, white or gold look good an vbp IMO. I think many others would agree.

[larryo108]

I do agree that those colors look good. I was just trying to keep it all to the red (emblems, calipers, and lugnuts), blue (car itself), and silver (outline of badges). I wanted to keep the wheels silver to tie it all together. I just saw that PasswordJDM has silver Rota slips for 635 plus shipping. But they are only 16x7 +40. I would love to get a 16x8 wheel on the car. Especially with the new coilovers coming. I want to put a meaty tire to fill in some of the wheel gap I will introduce, by raising the car. Maybe a 225/50 or 225/55 or something like that.

[poeticfinesse21]

Ideal tire size for 16's is 225/50 or 205/55 but I'd go with the 225/50/16 for the extra rubber. 225/55/16 is too big and it will fuck up your speedo. The only 16x8 wheels that I've been able to find in 4-lug is RPF1's.

[larryo108]

I think it probably depends on what you want. I just found a set of Advan RGII in Super Bright Chrome on PasswordJDM. 16x8 +48. There are some out there, but they are definitely harder to find in 4x100.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

pick em up. I think they are tight I just dont like that everyone has em

advans are niiiice

[poeticfinesse21]

I think it probably depends on what you want. I just found a set of Advan RGII in Super Bright Chrome on PasswordJDM. 16x8 +48. There are some out there, but they are definitely harder to find in 4x100.

Those might rub on the inside. Ideal offset for a 8" wide wheel is around +38

[larryo108]

No worries poetic. #1 - it was an example. #2 - I realized that unlike the Rota's on PJDM, the Advan's are priced per wheel. I don't have 3G's to spend on wheels.

I am not into the low offset wheels with all of the camber, etc, but I wish these wheels (http://www.ebay.com/itm/16X8-ROTA-GRID-OFFROAD-WHEELS-4X100-RIM-ET10MM-SILVER-57-1MM-HUB-BORE-/350564524421?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item519f462185&vxp=mtr) were in a more ep friendly offset.

[larryo108]

I'll keep searching for an affordable 8" wheel, but I may just end up with these 7" slips (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rota-Slipstream-16x7-4x100-40-Polish-Civic-Integra-Fit-/300678211340?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4601d1670c&vxp=mtr), slap some 225/50 tires on them and be done with it.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

Do you have any aspirations to track larry? if not then that would be comfortable DD.

[larryo108]

No sir. This is just a daily driver. I am just trying to make the car a little more comfortable to drive and keep it fun. Hopefully be getting a new vehicle in the next year. But if I can get this to where I enjoy driving the car (which I don't now) I may keep it longer because it is currently paid off.

[b_ron]

I'll keep searching for an affordable 8" wheel, but I may just end up with these 7" slips (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rota-Slipstream-16x7-4x100-40-Polish-Civic-Integra-Fit-/300678211340?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4601d1670c&vxp=mtr), slap some 225/50 tires on them and be done with it.

After seeing that picture of someones slips that broke, along with other rotas, I'm staying away from those, esp if you track.

I think they look nice, but can't afford the real spoons or regamasters.

[larryo108]

After seeing that picture of someones slips that broke, along with other rotas, I'm staying away from those, esp if you track.

I think they look nice, but can't afford the real spoons or regamasters.

I don't track at all. The most I do is a spirited drive in the mountains on the way to my parent's house. Is this a common problem with the Rota's or just something that has happened to a few people?

[larryo108]

I guess I could just do these Enkei's (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ENKEI-RPF1-RIMS-SILVER-16x8-4x100-38-SET-OF-4-WHEELS-/271047157395?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1bab6693&vxp=mtr), but they are another $300. That and the Enkei's seem to be on everything. I do like the 8" width. They have the correct offset from what poetic indicated. Would I have to run extreme camber to make these work or would I have they stick out past the fenders?

[Her-Name's-Ally]

negatory on the camber if you did it would be very minimal and at that rolling the fenders would do the trick

[larryo108]

I found these pics in the wheel thread. 16x8 rpf1's. Looks like the wheels are right at the fender. I am not sure I like that. Maybe I will just stick with the 7". I am intrigued by the big brakes he fit under a 16" wheel. Any idea what those are?

http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g248/k20ep3/IMG_1996.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g248/k20ep3/IMG_1997.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g248/k20ep3/IMG_1972.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g248/k20ep3/IMG_1973.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g248/k20ep3/IMG_2000.jpg
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g248/k20ep3/IMG_1974.jpg

I hope 27rocks doesn't mind my stealing his pictures.

[poeticfinesse21]

Those are actually 17x9 +35 and I think he has the stoptech BBK

[larryo108]

Damn. I swear I read that they were 16x8. I must have gotten confused. I know stoptech and there is no way in hell they are fitting under a 16" wheel. That should have been my first clue. Thanks again poetic.

[poeticfinesse21]

The wilwood BBK fits under some 16's, that's the setup that I plan to get eventually

[larryo108]

Is there a list of what 16's it will fit under? And any reviews/spec of the wilwood kit?

[larryo108]

OK. I am leaning towards the polished rota slips. I am looking at the ones I posted earlier from ebay. They are 16x7 +40, 4x100, but it does not specify what the bore size is. What bore size should I be looking for?

[b_ron]

I don't track at all. The most I do is a spirited drive in the mountains on the way to my parent's house. Is this a common problem with the Rota's or just something that has happened to a few people?

With those slips, the picture I saw wasn't even a crack, just the middle star was left on the car. Everything else broke off.
It's somewhat common for rotas, I feel like to more user error or something. Just google "rota wheels crack" or something and you should be able to see them.


OK. I am leaning towards the polished rota slips. I am looking at the ones I posted earlier from ebay. They are 16x7 +40, 4x100, but it does not specify what the bore size is. What bore size should I be looking for?

I think its 67.1 on the top of my head, don't take my word on this one.

[poeticfinesse21]

Is there a list of what 16's it will fit under? And any reviews/spec of the wilwood kit?

I think as long as the 16" wheel has an offset of +40 or lower then it will clear the wilwoods but don't quote me.
As far as reviews as long as you pair them with some sticky tires, you'll be outbraking porsches, mercedes and BMW's all day. A lot of autocross and track guys run the wilwood kit over on clubep3/clubrsx.

[larryo108]

Just talked to an old car buddy. I may switch it up and go with the Konig Rollers in silver, 16x7.5 +35. Thoughts?

https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/280277_236053509753232_6625702_o.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/280277_236053506419899_1929672_o.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/280277_236053513086565_276624_o.jpg

[Her-Name's-Ally]

I like rpf1s better but they are still nice.

[poeticfinesse21]

Just talked to an old car buddy. I may switch it up and go with the Konig Rollers in silver, 16x7.5 +35. Thoughts?


I like the konig feathers better, those are a little too shiny for me lol

[larryo108]

I like the rpf1's, but I was really set on a polished wheel to tie in the JDM badges. I did consider black wheels to match the black tires, but scratched that idea. The Feather's are nise, but I keep going back to the damn Slipstreams. They are just so clean and shiny. The one thing I don't like about the Rollers, is they will be a BITCH to clean.

[larryo108]

OK. For better or for worse, I went with the Rotas. They have been shipped and are on their way. The coilovers should also be on their way and hopefully make it here by Friday. Waiting on the say so from Corsport. I also have some of the Depo CTR projector lights on the way, so I am pretty stoked.

All that said, I was talking to my tire guy. I was mistaken and thought that the stock tire size was 195/65/R15, but it is actually a 60-series tire. So when going plus 1, the nearest tire size would be 205/50/R16. I want to go 225/50/R16. If the stock tire size was a 65-series the 225 would be the tire to go with. I still want to do the 225 for the increased width as well as the taller sidewall. I like the taller sidewall for the cushier ride and also to fill in some of the wheel gap when I raise the car so it is only lowered 1" to 1.5".

I say all of that to ask this, Am I gonna rub at all with the 225's on 16x7 +40 Rotas and lowered say 1.5" max? The previous owner has already rolled the fenders front and rear a bit.

Last question, What would be a good street alignment for this car. I know zero toe, but should I go for stock camber or something slightly more aggressive? Like I said, the mst this car will see is some spirited mountain driving. No track and no Tail of the Dragon type shit.

Finally, thank you all for all of the help with this stuff. I truly appreciate all of the help and input, espceially from poetic, Ally, and b_ron.

[poeticfinesse21]

225/50/16 tire size is fine, a lot of people run that size on the EP. Your speedo will off by about 2 or 3 miles though if you have a 02-03 EP. If you're that worried about it you could go with 225/45/16 tire size but you won't have as many tire choices in that size.
Stock tire size on 02-03 EP is 195/60/15, stock tire size on 04-05 EP is 205/55/16 but they're still the same car, stupid honda :doh:

Now as far as alignment + your drop, go for zero toe all around, -1.5 degrees camber in the front and -1 to -0.5 degree camber in the rear. That plus your rolled fenders and you should be able to run 225/50/16 with no problems.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

try -1 in the front -.5 in the back

[larryo108]

Wheels made it. Still waiting for the BC's.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/C4C93433-FA7A-4883-A5BD-9B2F01D30269-2198-00000143E2F38464.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/2390B170-0FCC-4488-B25B-3DB8F666D361-2198-00000143F2392703.jpg

[larryo108]

Alright fellas. Picked up the BC's from UPS this morning and I am super stoked right now.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/36B5A666-95EA-4374-82DA-20248757165F-18712-00000C3082AE02C6.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/D72775A2-F4D3-4A24-8B80-98C557CB442B-18712-00000C2F219111FF.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/32D3CE74-BB0A-45FC-90C5-7AC54C1D03F1-18712-00000C2F33D3B611.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/7AD5C044-A7E7-419D-A4BF-17010932CF78-18712-00000C2F3E381310.jpg

Now for a question. Especially, for those of you who have these coils installed. Is there an EP specific set of instructions. In reading the instructions that were included in their broken English, It appears that the spacing between the two different lock rings has to be held constant, but I don't know if it is the spacing that they were shipped with or if it is some other spacing I should be using, Any insight would be most appreciated.

I am interested and intrigued to about the two different adjustment points. Admitedly, I have only ever installed one other set of coilovers on a previous car and it was simply adjusting the spring perch. The BC's appear to adjust the shock body, which I am assuming keeps the shock travel the same. I like the consept and hope it works as well in practice.

Thanks again for all of the input so far, any additional help would be awesome. Thanks fellas.

[larryo108]

Nevermind. I looked online some more last night. I was incorrect. The lower spring perch does not move. That is how you preload the spring. I am considering following the video instructions to preload the springs. Does anyone know if the system already comes preloaded? If it does, then I am not going to bother. And then just work to raise the car. Thanks again fellas. Let you know how it goes when I install everything next weekend.

I am curious about the rubber coverings on the top and bottom of the springs though. Am I correct that those should come off? I am wondering if I should just start a new thread with these questions. Not gonna for now, but I may next week.

[Her-Name's-Ally]

Yes but there should be pleanty of info either here or on clubrsx of how to install. worst case call br racing
perch looks like/ should be adjustable. rears may need to be off to adjust like the buddy club rsds.
do your best to measure the height of the perch for an equal ride height.

the lower the perch the lower the drop.

[larryo108]

You are probably right about the rears Ally. i didn't even think about that. fortunately, it is only one bolt. Yeah. I am gonna need a good caliper to get super precise, anal-retentive measurements.

[differentK]

Alright fellas. Picked up the BC's from UPS this morning and I am super stoked right now.
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/36B5A666-95EA-4374-82DA-20248757165F-18712-00000C3082AE02C6.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/D72775A2-F4D3-4A24-8B80-98C557CB442B-18712-00000C2F219111FF.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/32D3CE74-BB0A-45FC-90C5-7AC54C1D03F1-18712-00000C2F33D3B611.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/7AD5C044-A7E7-419D-A4BF-17010932CF78-18712-00000C2F3E381310.jpg

Now for a question. Especially, for those of you who have these coils installed. Is there an EP specific set of instructions. In reading the instructions that were included in their broken English, It appears that the spacing between the two different lock rings has to be held constant, but I don't know if it is the spacing that they were shipped with or if it is some other spacing I should be using, Any insight would be most appreciated.

I am interested and intrigued to about the two different adjustment points. Admitedly, I have only ever installed one other set of coilovers on a previous car and it was simply adjusting the spring perch. The BC's appear to adjust the shock body, which I am assuming keeps the shock travel the same. I like the consept and hope it works as well in practice.

Thanks again for all of the input so far, any additional help would be awesome. Thanks fellas.

first off- nice purchase. you will def enjoy these- i love my set. when it comes to the install it is very simple. if they are EP specific coils they should fit like a glove. mine went in with no problems- just watch your left and rights and you will be fine. you adjust ride height with the bottom lock ring- the entire shock body moves up and down to allow full damper movement no matter how low you are. DO NOT touch the top 2 lock rings- those adjust spring pre- load. unless you know what you are doing I would leave those alone- they are already dialed in for that specific shock. just make sure to lube them up some spray- i use liquid wrench silicon spray (red bottle) every month or so and check the bottom lock ring for tightness (one came loose on me- no biggie) and you are good to go.

[larryo108]

Sweet. Thank you K. I appreciate it. Can I remove the rubber spring protector things? Also what is it you are lubing up monthly?

[differentK]

Sweet. Thank you K. I appreciate it. Can I remove the rubber spring protector things? Also what is it you are lubing up monthly?

i would leave them- will help prevent any noise between the spring and the perch. i spray the whole coil down- just coat the whole thing. no real right or wrong way of doing it- i make sure to spray around the top hats, mounting bolts,etc. just to keep things lubricated. when it comes to setting ride height- i measured from the top of the fender to the top of the tire.

[larryo108]

One last question for you K. The package came with 8 (I think) black metal washers. What are these for? I didn't see them in the instructions.

[differentK]

One last question for you K. The package came with 8 (I think) black metal washers. What are these for? I didn't see them in the instructions.

no clue honestly- i didnt notice them in my kit.

[poeticfinesse21]

I might be wrong but the washers might be in case you were installing the kit on a EM2/ES1. They have smaller crash bolts (EP3/DC5 crash bolts are 16mm, EM2/ES1 bolts are 14mm).

[larryo108]

Does this same kit work on all three cars? I am sorry I do not know Honda chassis codes, so I have no idea what an EM2/ES1 is. Never bothered to learn any code but EP3.

[differentK]

the coils should be stamped 02-05 civic si- they are made specifically for our chassis. if those washers are for the crash bolts then they would only be needed on an 02 ep3- that year had the smaller crash bolts like the em2 (other 7th gen civics)

[larryo108]

Mine is an 03 and from what I recall the coils are stamped 03-05 Si.

[differentK]

you should be good then- i dont think you will need any shims or spacers. i would call BC though just be sure.

[poeticfinesse21]

the coils should be stamped 02-05 civic si- they are made specifically for our chassis. if those washers are for the crash bolts then they would only be needed on an 02 ep3- that year had the smaller crash bolts like the em2 (other 7th gen civics)

Only some of the first 02 EP3's came with the 14mm bolts.....stupid honda :doh:
My EP is an 02 and my bolts were 16mm.

[larryo108]

Well they are in. Finally. Got them finished tonight. When I first put them in, the front was riding way high. Took it for a run to let everything settle and get in shape (I know it will take more than one quick beer run to completely settle. When I started, My fender to approximate center of wheel was 12.25" front and 11.5" rear. I am not sitting at about 13.33" front and 13.5" rear. So probably a little more rake than necessary. I think I may leave it as is for now. Get the new wheels and tires and alignment done tomorrow. Then take my trip to Miami in a car that is riding much nicer. After I put on 2000-3000 miles once the trip is all said and done, I will adjust the height and get it realigned.

The good news is that on my first trip out of the driveway when I was front high (about 14.5" front measurment) before I lowered it 1.25" I had no driveway scrapeage. Not even exhaust. I was wicked stoked about that. I will see if that holds true, once I lowered the front when I got back.

I will certainly be posting a review of sorts after my trip, but I was just bathing in the ability to drive the car without bottoming out on the gravel in the road. SO awesiome. Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions. Super stoked at the moment.

[larryo108]

Sorry for the bad pictures. Got the suspension installed last night. Got the wheels and tires installed today. Not at all happy with the alignment. Couldn't get the camber I wanted without completely fucking the toe. So I still have to pucker my asshole when I hit bumps waiting for the tire rub. Super bummed about that. We will see how the trip goes.

Oh and I feel like I am four-wheeling compared to how low the car was before. Still trying to get used to that look and feel.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/CA5B1603-99B3-463B-B697-F70628CC8A29-16990-00000A6997BD4E42.jpg
http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/EAFDFAAA-DCBC-4B07-A03E-599890CEDEAD-16990-00000A69A0503E12.jpg

So now I have a question. How are you guys running all of this negative camber without totally screwing the toe? The guy at the tire shop made it sound like either or. I have the steering bracket relocator from ClubRSX and the coils have camber plates in the front. I thought that would be enough to get the camber I wanted (-1.5) with zero toe. In the rear, I have Ingalls camber arms. I thought that would allow me to get the camber I wanted (-1.0) with zero toe. What more do I need to do?

[differentK]

So now I have a question. How are you guys running all of this negative camber without totally screwing the toe? The guy at the tire shop made it sound like either or. I have the steering bracket relocator from ClubRSX and the coils have camber plates in the front. I thought that would be enough to get the camber I wanted (-1.5) with zero toe. In the rear, I have Ingalls camber arms. I thought that would allow me to get the camber I wanted (-1.0) with zero toe. What more do I need to do?[/QUOTE]

-1.5 camber in the front is tough- you either need to start pullin splash/ fender shields or you need camber bolts and plates. i have camber bolts and camber plates in the front and i could still only get about -.8 to -1.0 camber in the front. for the rear- maybe rolling the fenders will help. i think mine is around -1.2 to -1.5 in the back without touching the fenders and i am pretty damn close to rubbing with the ingalls camber arms. i wouldnt go too nuts about setting up the alignment perfectly though- unless its a straight track car a super aggressive alignment is kind of pointless. negative camber in the front- a bit less in the back- zero out your toe the best you can- then adjust the dampening front to rear and go drive it

[larryo108]

Here is a better day time pic of the car.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/FB3C3E33-CFAE-428D-8AB9-B686DD2D74FF-18680-00000BB8D7444F89.jpg

I don't think I have the time to get it realigned today. My current alignment is My actual camber numbers is LF = 0.0*, RF = -0.6*, LR = -0.6*, RR = -1.1*. My toe numbers are LF = .05*, RF = .08*, LR = .1*, RR = .06*.

I am thinking I am going to put the fat 5's back on the car to drive to Miami and have a nice ride with no rubbing. I will figure out this wheel and tire combo when I get back . I think that is my only option at this point unfortunately. Will the Spec-D lugs work with stock wheels?