Camber/toe alignment question

[larryo108]

So I just installed some BC Racing coilovers. When I installed them, I also put some new Roat Slips with 225/40/R16 Kumho 4X tires. I am having rubbing issues in the rear because the shop could not get me the settings I wanted. I figured with the camber plates in the front, the 0857 steering bracket relocator on the steering rack, and Ingall's adjustable camber arms in the rear. I figured with this hardware I could get the specs I wanted. I want zero toe all around with -1.5* in the front and -1.0* in the rear.

The shop made it sound as though this was not attainable, all of my reading indicated I needed nothing more than that. Am I right?

Also, in looking at the front install I did, I think I missed something. The BC's came with the camber bolts in the outer holes of the camber plates. I believe in order to get the adjustability of the plates, I actually have to shift one set of the bolts into the center holes. I am thinking that the bolts on the engine bay side would need to move to the center holes. With that I can get the negative camber I want and with the lower part of shock actually moving outward slightly, the tie rods would have a little more room to get me to zero toe.

I guess with this thread, I am asking for confirmation and any input. Can I get some please? Thanks for all of the input thus far on my car and I look forward to your upcoming comments.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s132/larryo108/Car/5D9C911F-9978-436C-AEE8-984AC70BC754-2766-000002A0D73E849C.jpg

[.colin]

Where is it rubbing? Fenders or trailing arm? What's the offset of your wheels?


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[larryo108]

Where is it rubbing? Fenders or trailing arm? What's the offset of your wheels?


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Fairly certain it is on the fender because it is only on big hits and I believe only in the rear. The wheels are 16x7, +40.

[Deadphishy]

I am no suspension guru, but why did you come up with 1.5 in the front and 1 in the back? Most common alignment shops will not mess with aftermarket suspension adjustments. It's a liability on their end and takes to much shop time.

[larryo108]

Those were suggested in another thread I had when I was deciding what coilovers to buy. I am open to other numbers. I just want something that is going to ride comfortably and not rub. Like I said, the fronts are not rubbing I don't think, but would like to lower the front just a smidge more. I just want to make sure, I won't rub when I do. Like I said the rear is rubbing on the fender and it is only the driver rear that is rubbing. The camber on that is currently -0.6*. The passenger side rear as -1.1* camber and it is not rubbing.

From what I had been told, you want the rear camber to be half of the front. So given that the rear needs about -1.0* to not rub with my tire/wheel combo, the fronts should be -2.0*, but I made the decision to try to keep it a little bit less. I am not a huge fan of ridonkulous camber, but am willing to live with -1.5* and -1.0* if I can get zero toe.

Finally, I have come to realize what you say about common alignment shops. I have a buddy who manages the last shop who did it, but I don't think his alignment guy was happy about it. This next time around, I am going to look for a good tuner or hot rod shop to do it for me. There is a hot rod shop around the corner from my office that I am plannig to call.

Thanks for the input thus far and I am looking forward to more of it.

[black05ep]

Part of the reasonnis you probably need to roll your rear fenders.im running 2.5 neg i. The rear because. Fenders arent rolled and i still rub. 225-45-17 fronts lined perfectly to 1.5- both sides.without a camber kit up front or steering bracket. I have f2 rear camber kit. Wasnt hard for my friend to do it.

[larryo108]

I was planning to re-roll at least the rear fenders because I don't want that huge negative camber. Previous owner rolled all four. Do you have zero toe all around?

I am sure the two adjustments are related somehow, but HOW related. With the equipment I have installed is it realistic to get absolutely zero toe with the camber numbers I want?

[Deadphishy]

So you are not "tracking" the car at all?

[tinman5]

Unless you are really low, you should not be rubbing. I have a set of 16x7+42 with 225/50 Direzzas mounted with no rubbing. That is with about an inch and a half gap, very little negative camber and just a bit of toe in out back. No rolling, and liners still intact.

[larryo108]

What is really low? I am going to go take some measurements in a minute to see exactly where I sit. From what I have read stock height is 6.5" from the ground to front jacking points and about 6.75" from the ground to the rear jacking points.

I am not tracking the car at all, it is my daily driver. I want it to be comfortable, lower than stock, and try to keep it fun. I drove the car through the mountains in North Georgia over the weekend and had a blast.

[black05ep]

I have -1.5f 0 toe and-2.5r 0 toe only reason i have 2* rear is because my fenders arent rolled. I dont rub up front and plan on dropping anothef.5" after my balljoints.spherical bushings.and steering riser.

[RxPhi]

Is -1.5 camber up front and -1 camber rear wit zero toe a good alignment? I'm also looking for a good setup for daily driving. I'm not that low either maybe an inch n half with 205/50/16

[black05ep]

I would say thats a decent dd alignment. The only reason anyone would need toe out is for very aggressive driving or ra i.g. 1* to 1.5* f and r is good for daily i think.

[larryo108]

OK. So let's bring this back full circle. The picture above, am I correct that the bolts holding the camber plate that are closest to the engine, need to move to that middle hole? And also, what are the stock height measurements from the ground to the jacking points all around? Thanks again fellas.

[black05ep]

How much did you lower your car? Just measure it and take off however much you lowered it.that should be pretty accurate.

[larryo108]

That's the problem. I bought the car lowered on skunk2 springs. I did get measurements of that and I was at about 4" all the way around. I raised it to about 5" all the way around. But I never had stock measurements, so that is why I am asking.

[black05ep]

Ahh ok. I gotcha. I cant really help you there but i do kno that its about a 3-4 finger gap between the fender at stock height witb the stock 205-55-16 stock tire. Maybe that will help

[Zzyzx]

OK. So let's bring this back full circle. The picture above, am I correct that the bolts holding the camber plate that are closest to the engine, need to move to that middle hole?

yes, the bolts just have to be moved in order to allow for more adjustment (the shop you went to are idiots).

[larryo108]

yes, the bolts just have to be moved in order to allow for more adjustment (the shop you went to are idiots).

Well in their defense, I am in idiot too. I didn't notice until I was driving home from Florida. Thanks for the answer. Much appreciated.

[thedvlsh1]

The BC's came with the camber bolts in the outer holes of the camber plates. I believe in order to get the adjustability of the plates, I actually have to shift one set of the bolts into the center holes. I am thinking that the bolts on the engine bay side would need to move to the center holes.

BC Racing Coilovers Camber Adjustment --> http://vimeo.com/28478078

[larryo108]

Awesome. Thank you dvlsh.