A few misc questions while tearing into my motor

[s10blazed]

I consider myself a shade tree mechanic. I'm no pro, but when my car breaks I learn what I need to fix it.

So I put my new knowledge to use but still come up with some questions.

First off, is the valve cover gasket re-usable? Mine looks pristine but the manual I'm using says to replace it. There is no noticeable tears or scratches in it. Unless there is a specific reason to replace it, I will be re-using it.

Next, does the harmonic balance/crankshaft pulley usually have rubber 'wings' on the back. I know there is a layer of rubber as part of the pulley. But mine looks like it is coming out of the back. I did use some heat to remove the bolt but the rubber doesn't look melted. It looks aged and cracked and warped but still tight. I'll post a picture soon as I know it is worth 1,000 words.

Finally, the timing chain cover seals... what is the recommended way to prep it for the liquid gasket. Should I use a fine sand paper and lightly hit the edges? Leave them alone and pick off the old gasket? Sand it smooth? What about those gaskets in there? Should those be replaced too? My block is covered in oily grease around this seal so I would like to prevent it from leaking.

I hope to hear some advice. I've been reading up but these just didn't come up specifically.

[Draw7Seven]

I'd definitely buy a new valve cover gasket as a sort of insurance policy. Every time I've read a post about cracking off the VC I see a veteran saying "don't forget to put in a new gasket." However I can't speak from first-hand experience so if you can afford to, wait for more replies. I'm not sure about the other two issues, but good luck!

[Ba82Ep3]

1) Pic of the harmonic balancer.

2) Replace the VC gasket. Youll only have to do it once, and its cheap from Honda. Replace any o ring seals you come across working on your K... theyre cheap insurance. As far as removing/prepping the block/head and timing chain cover sealant surfaces... you should be able to pick off the larger portion of the sealant.

The easiest way to get the rest of the residue off depends on how good you are with a razor blade. If you put a razor blade in a scraper handle and draw it backwards on your windshield, it will prep the blade edge with a slight upward bend... and make it easier to carefully cut the majority of the sealant residue off the mating surfaces of the block/head and timing cover.

If you dont feel safe doing it that way, you can use scotch brite pads that work really fast at removing the residue. Just beware of the grit they leave behind (even in bolt holes) and be sure to either prep the area to minimalize grit and/or remove ALL of it before you close it up.

A good way to fiush the area after prep is a good ol can of WD40 and some compressed air. Prep all sealant surfaces before sealant application. I use denatured alcohol and a rag as its cheap by volume... but you can also use brake cleaner.

Your timing cover sealant surfaces should look like this when youre done...

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n562/dwms73/408662338_photobucket_2914_.jpg

And your block/head sealant surfaces should look like this...

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n562/dwms73/408662338_photobucket_2912_.jpg

[Deadphishy]

I'm not big on replacing the VC gasket if it is lower in miles.


Ironically i use a gasket removing pad to remove liquid sealant material. Red for steel, blue/yellow for aluminum.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2lM7IgqMAiA

[Ba82Ep3]

Just be careful with those... too much at the wrong angle can do far more damage than a prepped razor blade can. As with anything air tool related, finesse is best.