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dble0
02-27-2013, 09:03 PM
I searched and didn't find anything. Does replacing the stock LCAs do anything other than drop weight(potentially)? I'm trying to find ways to make my DD more enjoyable on the road. Is there any point in replacing these other than aesthetics and weight? And if so what brands/models would you recommend?

Zzyzx
02-28-2013, 10:40 AM
you'd lose a little bit of unsprung weight... but probably not enough to notice a ride quality change.

Anyway, are you trying to make the car feel more comfortable or trying to make the car handle a bit better?

lemonhead228
02-28-2013, 11:00 AM
They said the only on worth buy is the function7 lcas but some say just put poly busings into your stock lca and call it a day

But if you looking for handling get a rear sway and it would definitely make a difference

dble0
02-28-2013, 11:26 AM
Trying to make it handle better. I have heard that a rear under brace leads to understeer. I am trying to get my car where it doesn't bounce around in curves. There is this one road where I live that has a small lump in the road right as you enter the curve and everytime I go over it the ass bounces and sways. I want to minimize this as much as possible. I have a front strut tower bar, I have considered a rear but only if I could get the lower mounted bar and only if it is truly going to help.

dble0
03-01-2013, 08:53 AM
Bump

poeticfinesse21
03-01-2013, 01:52 PM
Front strut tower bars do practically nothing for our chassis. If you want to stiffen up the flex points then read these 2 threads:
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?56618-DC5-R-bracing-on-EP3-Project
http://forums.clubep3.com/showthread.php?t=676396

As far as replacing your LCA's, in the rear it does practically nothing except shave off maybe 1 or 2 lbs. They're mostly just for looks.
In the front the only option we really have is the DC5-R aluminum LCA's. They also, shave off a few lbs of unsprung weight (which makes a bigger difference at the drive wheels) and if I remember correctly, they also add a little bit of castor, which is something that our suspension is lacking in. For a daily driven car though, I would say neither one is really worth it.

Zzyzx
03-01-2013, 04:52 PM
Trying to make it handle better. I have heard that a rear under brace leads to understeer. I am trying to get my car where it doesn't bounce around in curves. There is this one road where I live that has a small lump in the road right as you enter the curve and everytime I go over it the ass bounces and sways. I want to minimize this as much as possible. I have a front strut tower bar, I have considered a rear but only if I could get the lower mounted bar and only if it is truly going to help.

Bounce in corners is going to be primarily a damper issue. Chassis bracing is going to do nothing to improve that. So... what dampers are on the car?

other things to look at would be having a proper alignment, aka non-OEM. Also you probably should take a look at the condition of your suspension bushings.

dble0
03-02-2013, 08:16 AM
My suspension is completely stock

lemonhead228
03-02-2013, 07:33 PM
The first thing you need to look into is new struts/spring/coils, not lca

Jpax
03-02-2013, 08:31 PM
Depending on how much your willing to spend, you could get a complete system, most of them are going to run around 1000, to 2500 new - this would give you the best bang for buck is to replace your current setup.

http://thmotorsports.com/suspension/coilover_systems/c-10110.aspx?cid=10110

has a full line of manufacturers that make them for the Ep3.
out of the few that I have driven -
Tein - street, and tyle flex
Progress auto group - street and race
buddy club - spec c
megan racing - street
Ksport
I loved the Ksport - Circuit pro - over all the best I felt stable and secure at moderate to high speeds. low speed was like driving on rails. low speed is anything with in the legal speed limit.

poeticfinesse21
03-02-2013, 09:26 PM
Start off with some 225/50R16 sticky summer tires and work your way from there. Tires will make the biggest difference followed by shocks/springs/coilovers

dble0
03-02-2013, 09:37 PM
I am thinking about getting the teins that you can add the electronic dampener control(like$1900 or something like that) I figure that way I can be extra picky without having to get out of the car. But it is going to be a while before I can afford that, I am quitting work hopefully at the end of the summer to go back to school full time(long story). Is this a good choice? Do you think I could be comfortable with something else? With this in mind what suggestions do you have?

Jpax
03-03-2013, 12:01 AM
A close friend of mine has the Tein flex system with remote adjustable damping modules on each of the towers, the problem is after a year of having it installed the drivers side module lock nut came lose, so when he went to set the damping to firmer - the module spun and wrapped the cord around the tower a bunch of time causing it to literally rip it self apart. mind you this could have been prevented if he would have checked his suspension from time to time , making sure things are snug / torqued down. Other then that, yeah its a very nice system.

just FYI - to get a new module that comes with the cord took him 8 months to get - because it's manufactured oversea's.

just like poeticfinesse21 said too, new tires will help as well, less expensive too

poeticfinesse21
03-03-2013, 12:00 PM
If the car is just your DD and you don't have any concrete plans to track or autocross then it's a little bit of overkill to get a $3000 suspension system. I think you'd be happy with the a-spec kit or if you want something more adjustable, the koni yellow + ground control spring combo is a setup that has been proven time and time again. It's definitely a better choice than any of these $1000 or less coilovers. Remember though, you suspension doesn't mean shit if your tires are shit.

EP3Lov3
03-03-2013, 03:30 PM
Ground control+koni yellows
05-06 RSX Type S 21mm Rear Sway bar
nice summer tires
Rear strut brace
Rear C-pillar bar
HFP Alignment specs
that's all i can think of from the top of my head. there you have a pretty good DD that is fun, and comfortable
also, if you find some good deals on the stuff I mentioned, you can get all this for under 2K, maybe even 1.5K

Powers
03-03-2013, 03:53 PM
When getting tires if you want something ass close to racing slicks as possible but still dot approved go for some r compounds. They will wear out a lot quicker then other tires though.

Personally I'm going to be picking up some 225/45r16 Dunlop zii's.

poeticfinesse21
03-03-2013, 05:00 PM
Star specs are definitely some of the best street tires you can buy but for a DD driven car they wear entirely too fast. Who wants to spend $600 on tires every few months? Look into hankook ventus evo v12's, continental extremecontact DW's, dunlop direzza dz101's or falken 452's. All are decently sticky or better and can be had for more reasonable prices.

EP3Lov3
03-03-2013, 06:00 PM
Maybe the OP can get another set of rims and have stock wheels for times he's not doing spirited driving, and nice aggressive summer set for spirited driving, i used my Falken Azenis RT615 only in the summer and they lasted me a while

dble0
03-04-2013, 08:55 AM
Why does everybody keep saying the RSX-s sway bar, is it that much better than any of the other 21mm bars? Is the c pillar bar the one that mounts even with the height of the rear seat?

Zzyzx
03-04-2013, 10:00 AM
My suspension is completely stock

Are you happy with the ride height? If so, pick up some Bilstein dampers and a camber kit.

install those and set the front camber to -1.5 and rear to -.5. Keep toe within OEM spec. At that point you should have a very fun to drive car with little cash invested.

lemonhead228
03-04-2013, 10:55 AM
If the car is just your DD and you don't have any concrete plans to track or autocross then it's a little bit of overkill to get a $3000 suspension system. I think you'd be happy with the a-spec kit or if you want something more adjustable, the koni yellow + ground control spring combo is a setup that has been proven time and time again. It's definitely a better choice than any of these $1000 or less coilovers. Remember though, you suspension doesn't mean shit if your tires are shit.

This^


Why does everybody keep saying the RSX-s sway bar, is it that much better than any of the other 21mm bars? Is the c pillar bar the one that mounts even with the height of the rear seat?

Its cheap and definitely an upgrade compare to the ep's tiny 17mm rear sway

poeticfinesse21
03-04-2013, 01:27 PM
Why does everybody keep saying the RSX-s sway bar, is it that much better than any of the other 21mm bars? Is the c pillar bar the one that mounts even with the height of the rear seat?

The reason why most people recommend the 05-06 RSX-S 21mm rear sway bar is because:

A. They can be found for dirt cheap used. I paid $50 for mine including the bushings. I've heard of people finding them for as cheap as $30.

B. They're still pretty cheap even if you buy a brand new one. About $75 without the bushings.

C. It's OEM and shaped exactly like the stock sway bar, just obviously thicker. A lot of people run into exhaust clearance issues with aftermarket sway bars.

So why pay $120 or more when the same can be had for much less? Unless you're planning on getting a cusco 25mm or hotchkis rear sway bar, it's not worth the ridiculous prices that some of these companies charge.


Are you happy with the ride height? If so, pick up some Bilstein dampers and a camber kit.

install those and set the front camber to -1.5 and rear to -.5. Keep toe within OEM spec. At that point you should have a very fun to drive car with little cash invested.

Mmmm bilsteins http://forums.clubrsx.com/images/smilies/drool.gif

Won't the bilsteins have to be revalved though? I read somewhere that they come valved for EM2 spring rates from the factory

Zzyzx
03-04-2013, 03:17 PM
Won't the bilsteins have to be revalved though? I read somewhere that they come valved for EM2 spring rates from the factory

There's really not that much difference between the two. Regardless, they advertise them for both the EM and EP.

dble0
03-04-2013, 03:23 PM
I wouldn't mind riding a little bit lower, but not much. I occasionally go down dirt roads and there are a lot of shitty speed bumps and parking lots around here.

poeticfinesse21
03-04-2013, 03:30 PM
There's really not that much difference between the two. Regardless, they advertise them for both the EM and EP.

Right now I'd riding on a full DC5 Type-R suspension and I would like to keep the springs and eventually change the shocks for bilsteins but I imagine for the Type-R springs, I will need a re-valve

Hasbro
03-04-2013, 06:53 PM
Right now I'd riding on a full DC5 Type-R suspension and I would like to keep the springs and eventually change the shocks for bilsteins but I imagine for the Type-R springs, I will need a re-valve

If you bought the Bilsteins why in the world wouldn't you use their springs?

*Oh, I was referring to their B16s.

poeticfinesse21
03-04-2013, 10:41 PM
I'm riding on stock type-r shocks and springs but once the shocks are done, I will definitely be switching them for bilsteins and unfortunately Hasbro, they do not sell the EP3 Bilstein B16 PSS9 coilovers in the US :mcry:

Hasbro
03-05-2013, 01:26 AM
You can get them. I believe I was going to go through Germany iirc.

I spent about 30 minutes today talking to a Koni engineer. I have the Sports and he actually talked me out of several upgrades, including his double adjustable Race Konis. For the money, they are the best deal out there.

b_ron
03-05-2013, 08:18 AM
Front strut tower bars do practically nothing for our chassis. If you want to stiffen up the flex points then read these 2 threads:
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?56618-DC5-R-bracing-on-EP3-Project
http://forums.clubep3.com/showthread.php?t=676396

As far as replacing your LCA's, in the rear it does practically nothing except shave off maybe 1 or 2 lbs. They're mostly just for looks.
In the front the only option we really have is the DC5-R aluminum LCA's. They also, shave off a few lbs of unsprung weight (which makes a bigger difference at the drive wheels) and if I remember correctly, they also add a little bit of castor, which is something that our suspension is lacking in. For a daily driven car though, I would say neither one is really worth it.
Heard the same as well.

Right now I'd riding on a full DC5 Type-R suspension and I would like to keep the springs and eventually change the shocks for bilsteins but I imagine for the Type-R springs, I will need a re-valve

How do you like your DC5R suspension? It looks like it goes for fairly cheap.
Same procedure as the a-spec install, right?

dble0
03-13-2013, 07:54 AM
So I am kind of entertaining the thought of the koni+ground control option. What spring rate would be a good investment? And what is all this talk I hear about top hats and pillow ball mounts? What else would I need if I went with the konis?

Zzyzx
03-13-2013, 08:36 AM
So I am kind of entertaining the thought of the koni+ground control option. What spring rate would be a good investment? And what is all this talk I hear about top hats and pillow ball mounts? What else would I need if I went with the konis?

optimum spring rates are going to be determined by a couple of things. Such as intended ride height, Tire choice & road conditions.

don't worry much about "top hats" or pillow ball mounts. What you should be focusing on is if you want to go with camber plates or camber bolts. As both have advantages and disadvantages as far as handling goes.

and finally... A really big ass pipe cutter. Seriously, you have to cut your OEM dampers in just the right place to gut them so that the koni dampers can replace them. (I suppose a hack saw or something similar would work, but remember... Measure twice and cut once.


Other then that, and while you are muddling around in the suspension, It would be advantageous to replace your worn and soft OEM suspension bushings.

dble0
03-13-2013, 09:07 AM
I always thought with suspension, you unbolt the old and bolt on the new in its place, more or less. Is the cutting that is involved because of the particular, potential, choice I have made? Is the A-spec kit that, I keep hearing is roughly the same set up/result, the same deal with cutting?

Zzyzx
03-13-2013, 09:49 AM
I always thought with suspension, you unbolt the old and bolt on the new in its place, more or less. Is the cutting that is involved because of the particular, potential, choice I have made? Is the A-spec kit that, I keep hearing is roughly the same set up/result, the same deal with cutting?

Cutting is only necessary for the front dampers with koni's as they are insert type dampers (they are sized to fit in side the OEM damper tube). IT was done to reduce costs & is pretty common with strut based replacement dampers else where.

poeticfinesse21
03-13-2013, 12:01 PM
Don't forget about bilstein shocks. They are a direct bolt-on for the EP3, no cutting required but you will most likely have to get them revalved to match whatever spring rates you choose.

dble0
03-13-2013, 02:02 PM
I assume the bilsteins aren't adjustable?

poeticfinesse21
03-13-2013, 03:27 PM
No sir they are not

dble0
03-13-2013, 07:27 PM
How hard is it to do the cutting?

Eddie Murphy
03-13-2013, 07:46 PM
Don't forget about bilstein shocks. They are a direct bolt-on for the EP3, no cutting required but you will most likely have to get them revalved to match whatever spring rates you choose.

And a Rear anti sway bar will help a lot.
Progress Anti-Roll Bar - Rear

poeticfinesse21
03-13-2013, 08:34 PM
Not a fan of the progress bar plus they are extremely overpriced. You can get a used 05-06 RSX-S 21mm rear sway bar for as low as $30. Why pay almost $100 more for a bar that is only 1mm thicker? If I'm going to spend over $100 on a rear sway bar then I'm going to get a cusco 25mm :mbiggrin:

Eddie Murphy
03-14-2013, 01:29 PM
Progress Technology 62.0103 is a 24mm rear sway bar for $250

Nice, where do you get the cusco 25mm?

Powers
03-14-2013, 06:53 PM
Progress Technology 62.0103 is a 24mm rear sway bar for $250

Nice, where do you get the cusco 25mm?

I got my cusco swaybar from corsport. But it's actually made for the rsx. Still fits our cars though.

Eddie Murphy
03-15-2013, 05:40 PM
Thanks Powers...

Eddie Murphy
03-15-2013, 05:59 PM
That Cusco cost more than the Progress with tie bar combo. I'm going to go with the
Progress Technology Anti-Roll Bars (62.0103) (http://www.tunersports.com/progress-technology-anti-roll-bars-62-0103_p2243.html)
give opinions please.

dble0
03-15-2013, 08:54 PM
Mr Murphy, you silly thread jacker you..... I have no idea(btw I love dr dolittle, that hamster was the shit...."do a little dance...."). IDC if this conversation branches out to others either, but I am still interested in getting the question answered how complicated is the cutting when putting konis in

Hasbro
03-15-2013, 10:36 PM
I lucked out and found a used RSX setup , even the GNC and Konis, which had a little custom work for extra travel. You could do a wtb thread here and on ClubRSX.com They are out there.

Eddie Murphy
03-16-2013, 12:45 AM
KONI YELLOWS CUTTING:
It requires a hacksaw and drill. Here is link to their instructions http://www.koni-na.com/pdf/boltstrut.pdf .