Custom Airbox Installation

[Slip_Angle]

After doing research on different intake theory's, I decided to try what Real Time Racing does with their race cars. Seems they always like to use a sandwich approach with a tube going from the throttle body into an airbox and then another tube as a source feed. See picture below. Real Time Racing likes to use the NSX airbox as it flows well and is compact.

http://www.world-challenge.com/
https://www.facebook.com/RealTimeRacing

I even sent a message to Peter Cunnigham (team owner) to ask him why they use this type of intake over SRI's and CAI's and his response was. "We wouldn't do it if it didn't work"

Benefits: Throttle response, low end torque, reduced noise levels, easy to clean filter.

6448
6449

In my case, I found a Civic SiR II airbox (EG6) at a salvage yard for $10. The filter is a panel type. The airbox is fairly small but has large inlet and throttle body feeds. Surprisingly making it fit only took a moderate amount of effort. The inlet feed starts just at the edge of the rear of the wheel well. I'm hoping this is a good source of cold air but time will tell. I will monitor it with Kpro/Tunerview and see what the IAT's look like.

I haven't had a chance to drive it yet, and the filter is old and super dirty so I'll pick up a new one tomorrow and start my testing.

Some pics for your viewing pleasure.

http://i50.tinypic.com/2eol9ur.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/23tp6og.jpg

[black05ep]

Thats pretty cool. I have a diy on here with my stock box COMPLETLY gutted top and bottom with the holes blocked on the top half. And a cold air tube running down to an old foglight shroud used as a velocity stack.

[o2ep3]

that sounds pretty cool

[Ba82Ep3]

... the airbox setup makes for great midrange response. It does quiet the engine at WOT... but for some that isnt so bad.

[lemonhead228]

That's a hugh ass elbow you got!! lol

I was thinking if the stock box will fit on the k24 with rbc.

[Slip_Angle]

Thats pretty cool. I have a diy on here with my stock box COMPLETLY gutted top and bottom with the holes blocked on the top half. And a cold air tube running down to an old foglight shroud used as a velocity stack.

Sounds great!


that sounds pretty cool

Thanks!

... the airbox setup makes for great midrange response. It does quiet the engine at WOT... but for some that isnt so bad.

More info coming once the snow storm we had clears.... initial testing looks to prove what your saying about mid range torque.


That's a hugh ass elbow you got!! lol

I was thinking if the stock box will fit on the k24 with rbc.

Ya, the elbow is large. It seems to fit well with the RBB intake manifold and the way it angles the throttle body up. It doesn't touch the hood.

The stock airbox won't fit with the K24 because the engine sits higher. I tried hard to make it fit but it wouldn't go...

[Ba82Ep3]

More info coming once the snow storm we had clears.... initial testing looks to prove what your saying about mid range torque.

Yep, yep. When i was looking into an RDX OEM turbo setup i had a '10 RDX clip to scavenge engine parts from. The airbox on it is GREAT for what you are looking to do (uses panel air filter)... and very inexpensive considering. You can get both halves for less than $70 new. Thats a third of the cost of the NSX box. The only thing i dont know is if the NSX box has any vanes or baffles in it. That would definitely alter air flow and sound.

Incidentally, ive been using a k20z3 airbox for over a year now and love it. Its a little quieter than i would like... but you gotta give to get...

[lemonhead228]

Ya, the elbow is large. It seems to fit well with the RBB intake manifold and the way it angles the throttle body up. It doesn't touch the hood.

The stock airbox won't fit with the K24 because the engine sits higher. I tried hard to make it fit but it wouldn't go...

Boo that sucks. I like the hondata mod stock box better than the aem v2. thats why i wanted to keep it.


Yep, yep. When i was looking into an RDX OEM turbo setup i had a '10 RDX clip to scavenge engine parts from. The airbox on it is GREAT for what you are looking to do (uses panel air filter)... and very inexpensive considering. You can get both halves for less than $70 new. Thats a third of the cost of the NSX box. The only thing i dont know is if the NSX box has any vanes or baffles in it. That would definitely alter air flow and sound.

Incidentally, ive been using a k20z3 airbox for over a year now and love it. Its a little quieter than i would like... but you gotta give to get...

haha i was wondering what stock box you had in there. thought i was the original ej one since it was pretty small lol

[Slip_Angle]

Yep, yep. When i was looking into an RDX OEM turbo setup i had a '10 RDX clip to scavenge engine parts from. The airbox on it is GREAT for what you are looking to do (uses panel air filter)... and very inexpensive considering. You can get both halves for less than $70 new. Thats a third of the cost of the NSX box. The only thing i dont know is if the NSX box has any vanes or baffles in it. That would definitely alter air flow and sound.

Incidentally, ive been using a k20z3 airbox for over a year now and love it. Its a little quieter than i would like... but you gotta give to get...

Interesting. I found your thread with that airbox. It fits good. The EG6 Airbox fits really good too and I can certainly say it's producing great torque/power... I've learned bigger isn't better and flow is king.

[Ba82Ep3]

Prolly works really well with your RBB too. This is another reason im still using the PRC and havent installed the RRC yet. Physically it will fit, but im not done with the airbox/smaller exhaust/open cutout setup (duality). I think the RRC will require the 3" exhaust and intake to make any useable gains... and it will move my powerband up and away from where i want it. I may end up selling it... who knows.

Ive also noticed the airbox lets me use more ignition advance (part throttle) than a regular tube intake. Makes for a peppy midrange...

I noticed one of the RT cars looks to have a huge plenum on a PRC manifold. Interesting.

[Slip_Angle]

Prolly works really well with your RBB too. This is another reason im still using the PRC and havent installed the RRC yet. Physically it will fit, but im not done with the airbox/smaller exhaust/open cutout setup (duality). I think the RRC will require the 3" exhaust and intake to make any useable gains... and it will move my powerband up and away from where i want it. I may end up selling it... who knows.

Ive also noticed the airbox lets me use more ignition advance (part throttle) than a regular tube intake. Makes for a peppy midrange...

I noticed one of the RT cars looks to have a huge plenum on a PRC manifold. Interesting.

Damn, this is good stuff. Kudos to you my friend, I completely agree with what you've described. Seems finding the right combination of parts is really the key to making power where you want it. I had the RRC on my car with the K24 and it just didn't work with the CAI and KRRH I had.. I'm sure with maybe stage 2 cams or something it would be great but not with the combo I had... RBB works well with this setup.

I'm very interested to hear what you have to say about ignition timing. I did some quick testing of the same thing two nights ago and found exactly the same results.. The mid range feels really punchy now.

Anyways, more to come but I like where this is going.

[Ba82Ep3]

Yeah... totally agree. Some of it ends up having to be an educated guess of what Honda was trying to do with the parts/part combination to begin with... then combining/refining them to suit your end goal. For me thats the fun of it all...

As far as the ignition advance goes (and my setup is really different than yours so use this as a suggestion ONLY), ive added almost 5 degrees of advance (smoothed) columns 4-7, 2500-6500rpm. I still havent induced knock (which isnt the only indicator i know) and my AFR's are 13.6 to 13.8. I pulled my plugs tonight and the number 3 insulator has a hint of pink (just above the perfect tan) so i feel i need an EGT sensor to know if im advancing too far (too much combustion chamber heat)... or if my constant high speed driving requires a colder plug.

Im nervous to push it more until then... and changing the plugs heat range will change a variable that needs to stay constant so the rest of my work is comparable.

I chucked my 1.6 airbox... next time you open it up can you add some internal pics to see what the baffles look like (if any). Im looking for decent internal NSX airbox pics to see if it might be worth the investment... out of curiosity.

[Ba82Ep3]

I also plan on picking this up for the intake tube... and using screen between it and its mounting point (front bumper most likely). So many projects going on all at once.

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=NACA-020825&Category_Code=APR-DUCT

[Slip_Angle]

Yeah... totally agree. Some of it ends up having to be an educated guess of what Honda was trying to do with the parts/part combination to begin with... then combining/refining them to suit your end goal. For me thats the fun of it all...

As far as the ignition advance goes (and my setup is really different than yours so use this as a suggestion ONLY), ive added almost 5 degrees of advance (smoothed) columns 4-7, 2500-6500rpm. I still havent induced knock (which isnt the only indicator i know) and my AFR's are 13.6 to 13.8. I pulled my plugs tonight and the number 3 insulator has a hint of pink (just above the perfect tan) so i feel i need an EGT sensor to know if im advancing too far (too much combustion chamber heat)... or if my constant high speed driving requires a colder plug.

Im nervous to push it more until then... and changing the plugs heat range will change a variable that needs to stay constant so the rest of my work is comparable.

I chucked my 1.6 airbox... next time you open it up can you add some internal pics to see what the baffles look like (if any). Im looking for decent internal NSX airbox pics to see if it might be worth the investment... out of curiosity.

AFR's seem a bit lean, no? I try to aim for 13.0-13.2. I'll PM you my email and we can share Calibrations if you're interested. I'll get you those pics in the next couple days.


I also plan on picking this up for the intake tube... and using screen between it and its mounting point (front bumper most likely). So many projects going on all at once.

http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=NACA-020825&Category_Code=APR-DUCT

Those NACA ducts are pretty cool. Post pics once it's in. Should really help.

[Ba82Ep3]

AFR's seem a bit lean, no? I try to aim for 13.0-13.2. I'll PM you my email and we can share Calibrations if you're interested. I'll get you those pics in the next couple days.


How else am i gonna get 32mpg? :tehe:

Ive always been between 13.2 and 13.4 (unless i was boosted of course), last night i opened up another 10 degrees of cam advance and was trying to stabilize AFR's so thats why they were 13.6 to 13.8. They were 13.9 with some speckled 14.2's the first pull. I even added 2% across the board before the first pull as a safety net (this was with the cutout open... so basically open 2.5" header, which incidentally is hard to get smooth AFR's).

I dont mind sharing KALs... i wouldnt mind a fresh pair of eyes on mine for opinions. The fuel maps are the craziest ive ever worked on, and im sure a lot of it is due to the hybrid duality of my setup.

As far as pics go... no rush... im sure others would like to see them too. :mwink:

[Slip_Angle]

Send me over your email address via PM and I'll forward my KAL. Happy to review yours as well. Always interested to hear where things can be improved and/or compare notes.

[Slip_Angle]

Ok, here are the internal pictures of the intake. Pretty smooth from the factory.


http://i48.tinypic.com/4qrih5.jpg

http://i46.tinypic.com/20z1vep.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/rr2f6f.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/2da0msk.jpg

[Ba82Ep3]

:thumbu:

I tried to PM ya... your box is full.

[Slip_Angle]

:thumbu:

I tried to PM ya... your box is full.

Fixed

[Ba82Ep3]

Just saw this... and your box if full again. LOL!

[Slip_Angle]

Just saw this... and your box if full again. LOL!

Bizzare, I deleted all of my messages and after just checking they were all back... Deleted them again, hopefully it sticks! Since I'm making a post I may as well give a subjective update on the airbox.

Around town driveability is really really good. Torque down low and in the mid range feels great. Throttle response is much improved and power delivery is nice an linear. With both my old CAI and SRI power delivery was stepped. They were both strong in certain areas of the rev range but the airbox is good throughout all of it.

Intake temperatures seem to rise and lower slowly and consistently. My old CAI would rise a bit faster but also cool down faster as well. The SRI would rise rapidly and not cool down much. I still plan to experiment with extensions on the airbox as the spring and summer months come but for now it's good.

I do need to put a dirt/splash guard on the end of the intake since it sits on the edge of the wheel well and the odd bit of dirt make's it to the back of the filter.

...more to come.

[Ba82Ep3]

PM'd ya.

Interesting you noticed the temperature variation changes slowly. One of the things i have strived for in the years i have street tuned was consistent conditions from one pull to the next. The airbox helps in that area... greatly. I dont have to cruise part throttle for a long period of time to stabilize air temp... it decreases my pull length and time between runs.

It also helps keep warmer stable IA temps in the winter, which is important when IA change can be quick and drastic. The greater % of variation, the less accurate your fuel changes will be from run to run. Sure its nice to have cold air to tune with... but it really isnt realistic (at least in my climate) when youre tuning a daily driven car. Id rather have a tune that was optimized down the middle, than awesome in the cooler air... and ass in the heat of the summer.

I dunno... its also about personal choice. Some people want cold air for max whp and dyno numbers. I want realistic daily driven numbers... or even worse case numbers... so i know it can only get better with better conditions.

Also, i opened up my rev limiter to 7500 today (closed cutout with OEM exhaust)... it seems to fall on its face pretty hard. I only did two logs... so ill know more when i get a chance to do some more to the KAL. I think im at a point where im gonna have to have a separate KAL for open cutout (basically open header), and one for closed cutout and OEM exhaust. Other wise tuning for power open header will give me a fairly rich KAL with the exhaust involved. Even with the ECU controlling the AFR's to remove the extra fuel... it seems to stumble between gears with normal driving... and lag some with light throttle input.

Sorry just `typing outloud` lol

[BeaterEP]

Yep, yep. When i was looking into an RDX OEM turbo setup i had a '10 RDX clip to scavenge engine parts from. The airbox on it is GREAT for what you are looking to do (uses panel air filter)... and very inexpensive considering. You can get both halves for less than $70 new. Thats a third of the cost of the NSX box. The only thing i dont know is if the NSX box has any vanes or baffles in it. That would definitely alter air flow and sound.

Incidentally, ive been using a k20z3 airbox for over a year now and love it. Its a little quieter than i would like... but you gotta give to get...

So we've seen the OP's box.
Now show us yours!

Got a build thread? I'd live to see what you guys have going.

Not terribly happy with the SRI I'm running, curious about other options out there.

[Ba82Ep3]

I didnt want to add a bunch of pix of my stuff to take away from the OP's thread... so ill just add a few...

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n562/dwms73/photobucket-7097-1321310738188.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n562/dwms73/photobucket-2769-1321392603240.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n562/dwms73/photobucket-5693-1321392650465.jpg

Its a k20z3 airbox with modified k20z3 snorkel parts. I have since switched to a custom CAI...

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n562/dwms73/IMG_20130506_125625_431_zpsc8ed9145.jpg

I have had a hard time getting good gas mileage ever since (im averaging 26mpg now)... but picked up large amounts of power with greater cam advance (even on the stock EJ1 catback).

[BeaterEP]

Nice!
Looks like you need to relocate the battery for this setup.
Something I've wanted to do anyway, but added work to be aware of.

Any particular year for the intake box, or just whatever is on hand?

[Ba82Ep3]

Mine is from an 06 Civic SI. His im not sure and wish i knew because everytime i fish through the junkyard i have yet to find one that looked like it (inlet and outlet).

I ran across a Lexus SC300 the other day and was tempted to pull its airbox and associated hardware. Its basically a ram style. Ill see if i can find pix...

[Bwek]

All this is useless with no before and after dyno

[BeaterEP]

I think they're more concerned about overall driveability than dyno numbers.

Feel of the throttle response, as well as where in the revs it "comes on".

Someone mentioned the "stepped" nature of the throttle with an SRI, which I've noticed on my car. There are definite areas of the rev range which give better throttle response/power than others.

It's not all about numbers made in a simulated environment. :)

[Slip_Angle]

All this is useless with no before and after dyno

Assuming you're being sarcastic here but if not, that's not true. Some people are interested in numbers only, however there are other characteristics that are important depending on what you're looking to accomplish.

Ease of maintenance (Changing the filter and how often)
Risk of damage (hydro-lock)
Drive-ability (Throttle response, acceleration characteristics)
Where you want peak torque in the rpm range
Cold weather driving behavior

Personally, I like to try different things and find my own solution based on what I'm looking to accomplish.

Food for thought.

[Slip_Angle]

- Quick update -

I've been monitoring intake temperatures as the ambient gets warmer outside. After starting the engine (cold) it takes about 5-10 minutes for the IAT to begin creeping up depending on outside temperature and how fast I'm driving.

A few observations: (All of my testing is in rush hour traffic)

IAT's stay 5-10F above ambient when driving at a moderate pace (35mph+)
IAT's climb quicker and higher once my ECT causes my cooling fan to engage (20F increase)
IAT's do not lower at a quick rate after cooling fan engagement (heat soak)

I've been working on a few things to optimize this.

Snorkel location. Trying to find the best spot to collect air from just inside the wheel well. It almost seems like the air is stalled in the current spot but it cold just be that it takes time to cool the black intake box down after it's warmed up.

Thermal Wrap. I plan to thermal wrap the bottom and sides of the airbox to prevent it from warming up too much when my ECT fan engages

A/C Fan. My A/C doesn't work and in my climate it's not needed often..so I was thinking about unplugging the AC compressor but still leaving the A/C fan operational so I can use it to constantly cool the engine bay. I'm also wondering if I can reverse it's direction to push hot air out vs. bring cold air in. If anyone has info on how to do this please do let me know.

Subjective thoughts

I still really like the airbox, it's ease of maintenance, linear acceleration, great drive-ability and power delivery. Just want to optimize it the best I can.

[Bwek]

To be honest I am being serious

ease of maintenance? you change your filter every 10-15,000 km's, Risk of Hydro lock? unless you are driving through some deep puddles, this point means nothing, Drive ability, will throttle response be improved? perhaps, Acceleration? well if you put it on a dyno that will show weather it has been improved and if you make more low end torque it'll show there

Peak torque? well you need a dyno for that
Cold weather driving? well how would that change from Short ram-stock-cai? all the Scalers (air temp, water temp) are in the ecu so that really shouldnt chance all that much between all the intake

And all the effort you are making to lower intake temps with this other Box could be applied to the stock box


So yes I'd love to see a dyno between the 2, i'd love to see how a air box that is Harmonically tuned for a B16A performs compared to a harmonically tuned box for a K20A

the Dyno would show where the peak power is, if you ever improved torque therefore improved drivablilty I don't see how a box tuned for a 1.6L is going to be superior to a 2.0L box

the Nsx Box for sure 100% could very well be an improvement.

[Bwek]

Here you go, the Spoon box is essentially a Stock box with a foam element filter and these was tested on I believe a stock B18, Your stock box will be making more torque than a b16 one which is far too small for a k20, Now if you redirected the inlet on the stock box and had some heat sheilding on the stock box with a k/n filter you'd could possibly make more power


http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1722556

[Slip_Angle]

I too wondered if an Airbox from a 1.6 would be effective but as always you don't know unless you try. The box is relatively small but the inlet is large and the outlet as well. Because it was tuned for a 1.6 doesn't mean it won't work on another motor, which in my case is a K24a2.

* Filter maintenance is dependent on location and in my case the front of the fender well, which gets dirty fast.
* Agree hydro lock is unlikely, however it was something I always had in the back of my mind, which was a pain.
* Torque is not what makes good drive-ability.
* Cold weather drive-ability was effected by the intake. Drive-ability was better with an SRI because the intake temps were more stable and the engine could intake air quicker (see comment about dead spots below). I often had to adjust things in KPro to improve drive-ability between the seasons. Parameters like Fuel-Overrun, Temp compensation, idle valve duty..


I like this definition; "Drive-ability describes the qualitative assessment of the vehicle's response to the driver's input"


* No Bucking
* No High/Low Idle issues
* No Acceleration dead spots
* Smooth Acceleration - No stepping or large power drops


This is not theory, it's fact based on direct experience. With the CAI there was a dead spot in the low RPM's just after initial clutch release. This presented itself more in cold weather than warm but was annoying. It wasn't fuel related and I suspect it was because the volume of available air was either not sufficient or couldn't get flowing fast enough but I don't know.

I also experienced bucking depending on the season and had to adjust KPro parameters. Since the airbox install, there is none.

As for Dyno's, yes I have some preliminary comparisons and the airbox graphs show better than the CAI in most of the range, however I didn't want to share until I've got the airbox installed to my satisfaction.

The stock box doesn't fit in my car with the K24, that's why I'm trying something else. Also, I'm fairly certain the stock k20a3 airbox doesn't have as large inlets or direct flow as this b16 airbox. I'll measure and post it here.

So, besides the dyno numbers which I have (and are superior so far..) -- all of the other items I mentioned are important to my qualitative assessment of the vehicle's response to the driver's input :)

[Hasbro]

Ba82 is a whiz at this sort of stuff. Read any of his threads.

[Bwek]

All these issues that you listed are things that are tuned In K-pro

* No Bucking
* No High/Low Idle issues
* No Acceleration dead spots
* Smooth Acceleration - No stepping or large power drops

So if you have a Dynos why are you even arguing this? post them up!

You could also easily post up a data log of a stock box, Cai, and your box the Duty cycle and afr's will easily show which box is making power

that flat spot may not be fuel related but very easily be timing related or cam phasing, remember the ecu is tuned for a stock box so any time you mess with anything on the motor to be full optimized (No flat spots, idle issues) it needs to be tuned with datalogs driving in real world situations,

Don't base my experience on my post count I've been doing this for a very long time, and for someone to say a d/b16 airbox is better than a stock airbox that comes with that motor and ecu id call it crap every time, now on the other hand an NSX box Flows enough for 200+Hp because the engine is rated above that.

[Slip_Angle]

All these issues that you listed are things that are tuned In K-pro

* No Bucking
* No High/Low Idle issues
* No Acceleration dead spots
* Smooth Acceleration - No stepping or large power drops

So if you have a Dynos why are you even arguing this? post them up!

You could also easily post up a data log of a stock box, Cai, and your box the Duty cycle and afr's will easily show which box is making power

that flat spot may not be fuel related but very easily be timing related or cam phasing, remember the ecu is tuned for a stock box so any time you mess with anything on the motor to be full optimized (No flat spots, idle issues) it needs to be tuned with datalogs driving in real world situations,

Don't base my experience on my post count I've been doing this for a very long time, and for someone to say a d/b16 airbox is better than a stock airbox that comes with that motor and ecu id call it crap every time, now on the other hand an NSX box Flows enough for 200+Hp because the engine is rated above that.

Yes, they are things tuned in KPro - Some more difficult that others...Only they don't need tuning with the airbox from season to season but they do with the CAI I was running.

You can call crap on the stock airbox vs. the b16 airbox, however the stock airbox -- is in fact not stock for my motor --. The stock box is for a k20a3 making 160hp/132 ft.lbs. I have a K24a2 with a longer stroke making alot more hp/tq. Still K-Series but much different so the argument doesn't make sense. It's really a moot point anyways since the stock aribox will not physically fit in my engine bay.

I won't debate your experience, however why don't you take a different approach and share you experience instead of arguing... I'm doing the ephatch community a service by trying something different and sharing my results.

[Slip_Angle]

Preliminary Dyno Comparison.

CAI = Orange
Airbox = Blue

http://i40.tinypic.com/nfgaf.jpg

[Hasbro]

I'm doing the ephatch community a service by trying something different and sharing my results.


Your efforts are most appreciated!

Is the only difference on the dyno comparo the box/cai?

[Slip_Angle]

Your efforts are most appreciated!

Is the only difference on the dyno comparo the box/cai?

Yes. Keep in mind this is a dyno calculated by a run on the road vs a real dyno. I do take care to make sure the runs are as similar as possible. IE: No wind, up/down hill, bumps etc..

[BeaterEP]

Good update, thanks!
Thinking about going the RDX or Z3 route next time around.
Might have to start scouring the local junkyards :)

[Slip_Angle]

Made a few changes to the airbox to solve a couple of problems. First, the intake was sitting on top of the coolant hose so as the engine got warmer and the coolant got hot it would transfer heat to the airbox. In addition, I wanted to raise the intake a bit higher to get closer to the wheel well but make sure I would clear the steering arm.

To solve this, I extended the intake tube. The airbox now sits further back in the engine bay, well clear of the coolant hose. One drawback with this was that the extended tube caused the airbox to sag just a bit so I decided to add the bracket to ensure it was secure. The bracket(s) are temporary until I can make something that is more aesthetically pleasing. I added more bands on the joints for stability. It's very secure now, possibly over done but better safe than sorry!

The rubber intake inlet sits right at the edge of the wheel well so it can ingest cold air.

http://i43.tinypic.com/o923gp.jpg

[Hasbro]

Where in the wheel well compared to where a cai would go? Does the tube run under the battery?

[Slip_Angle]

Where in the wheel well compared to where a cai would go? Does the tube run under the battery?

CAI comes out in front of the wheel. This airbox has a feed that comes out just back from center of the wheel. Right where the steering arm/tie rod are located.

[Ba82Ep3]

Man this thread woke up.

Ive been working on gas mileage with the custom CAI... and have experienced the bucking and dead spots between 1500 and 2500rpm. My VTEC setup isnt your run of the mill, and i also have an issue i believe is rocker/pin related so i cant say the bucking and dead spots are solely CAI related when compared to the air box.

i need some more time for thorough assessment. The thread is moving along greatly though...

: )

[Ba82Ep3]

Check the trip and gas gauge... warmer weather really helps with the gas mileage...

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n562/dwms73/IMG_20130530_181322_581_zps3b48c8e3.jpg

[ryboto]

Didn't realize this thread was current! Now I'm not sure what I want to do with my intake... Was planning on just making a custom CAI, but now I will reconsider..

[rowerperk]

I made a custom cold air box for my RBB, I ran the flexible hose to the hole just below the headlight, and I am getting intake air temps that are the same as the outside air temp now. I do miss the sound of the old short ram intake though. But a huge difference from the 130 degree intake temps I was getting.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/9507602140_44380d916f_b.jpg

[Slip_Angle]

I made a custom cold air box for my RBB, I ran the flexible hose to the hole just below the headlight, and I am getting intake air temps that are the same as the outside air temp now. I do miss the sound of the old short ram intake though. But a huge difference from the 130 degree intake temps I was getting.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/9507602140_44380d916f_b.jpg

Hey, that looks like a great job! Did you see any fuel changes in kpro? Just wondering what, if any changes happened to the power band.

[rowerperk]

It felt different at first, almost like its down on power because there's no more intake noise, but its definitely not. Still in the process of retuning, I find I can have so much more ignition now that I'm getting such lower intake temps. Seemed like there was a bit of hesitation with the old kal just because the lack of ignition so I've started out fresh again. I think I will start with the k24 hytech header base kal and retune to the max 30 degree cam angles and go from there. Hope it wont be too much ignition. Will update once I have the car tuned properly.

[Slip_Angle]

I have a pretty good kal I made for the k24a2 if you want me to send it. Just PM me with your email if interested.

[Honda_90]

this is awesome! going to mess with the stock ep3 airbox. but is there a reason wecan use a a3 airbox with a k24a2? only thing i see that wont work is the intake arm. but thats an easy fix. regardless love this thread and i will be building myself an induction box as well this will be fun!

[lemonhead228]

this is awesome! going to mess with the stock ep3 airbox. but is there a reason wecan use a a3 airbox with a k24a2? only thing i see that wont work is the intake arm. but thats an easy fix. regardless love this thread and i will be building myself an induction box as well this will be fun!

It was said that the stock box won't fit since the k24 sit a bit higher.. I think the z3 stock box is a good option since its slimmer than ours.

[rowerperk]

I think its more to do with how the upper rad hose comes into the side of the head rather than in front of the head on the a3 engine. I really wanted to make the stock air box work but there is no way with this engine and the different coolant passage set up.

[kadafi]

do you have any pic of how does the inside of the air box look like?


I made a custom cold air box for my RBB, I ran the flexible hose to the hole just below the headlight, and I am getting intake air temps that are the same as the outside air temp now. I do miss the sound of the old short ram intake though. But a huge difference from the 130 degree intake temps I was getting.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7434/9507602140_44380d916f_b.jpg

[03civicdopejmd]

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?60059-StevieG-s-EP3-new-owner-right-here&p=881881&viewfull=1#post881881

[geeio]

i like the trying of something diffrent, big ups to you , the stock air box is very big, i see what you are trying to do with the panel filter, but maybe an integra air box might even be better, as far as i know the type r had really heavy lungs and used the same air box as the gsr, i am still using the stock air box on my a2 swap and really love the linear throttle response instead of waiting for vtec feels like there is alwaYS more power, i also am running a 80mm neoprene tubing over the radiator to the grill area. as i saw on the uk ep3r site.

[rowerperk]

Hey sorry about the late reply, was in hibernation for the winter. It is basically just the injen short ram intake with this box wrapped around it. I'd have to take the box apart to get to the air filter, but its the same one that came with the intake. I do very little driving with the car (less then 2000km last year) so I doubt the filter is ever going to get dirty. I am very happy with the results from this, but I do miss the noise of the short ram intake. This sounds just as quiet as the stock intake box and there is no problem supplying enough air for the k24 at wot.