Breaker breaker 1 niner

[dble0]

I was on my way home from IA yesterday when I ran into something disturbing. I was running down the interstate with a couple friends, got behind a car and went to brake.... My brakes decided to not work and instead I felt vibration in the pedal. I can only assume that my brakes/rotors had gotten too hot. I am running a stock a3 by the way. I'm not ready to upgrade the calipers to a bbk, especially since it is just a stock car. My question is, would changing out to better pads make a huge difference(I'm running with whatever Honda put on during my last brake job)? If so which brand should I go with(hawk)? How much more of a difference would getting drilled, slotted, or drilled and slotted discs make and what brand should I get? I don't run my car hard very often so I am not trying to break the bank, just looking for a little extra piece of mind for the rare time I do.

[rd02SiR]

I would run a blank rotor, hawk hps or hp+, stainless lines, and superblue fluid.

[dble0]

Blank rotor because of the way I drive and to save money?

[rd02SiR]

well a blank rotor has more surface area, period. More surface are = greater stopping power. Dimpled rotors are prone to cracking. They are meant to vent gases causes by pad to rotor friction. Slotted rotors helps prevent glazing of the pads/rotors, but again, have less surface area.

Unless you are lapping your car, you shouldn't really need fancy rotors. Concentrate on the pads, stainless lines and superblue brake fluid and you will get a much better bite, response, and much less fade.

[dble0]

Thank you for the advice. I might finally attempt to do my own brake job....

[rd02SiR]

To be honest, besides changing the oil, brakes are very easy to do. When doing the brake lines, you'll need a second person to help you bleed. unless you buy a 1 man bleeder.

[.colin]

You sure it wasn't the ABS? The pedal will pulsate when the ABS is working.

[lemonhead228]

what year is your ep3? if its 5 lug get dc5s calipers and rotors. I had slotted rotors with hp+ before but it shot my rotor within 6 months. but the dc5s brake similar to the stock hp+. hp+ are for straight track imo. if you use them for dd you gonna have to replace your rotors really often..

and i was with dc5s stock pads. planning on going with hawk ceramic pads soon to get a better bit

but if you're on 4 lug just grab the hawk ceramic pads(low dust) or hps(dusty). either one is good for dd

[dble0]

what year is your ep3? if its 5 lug get dc5s calipers and rotors. I had slotted rotors with hp+ before but it shot my rotor within 6 months. but the dc5s brake similar to the stock hp+. hp+ are for straight track imo. if you use them for dd you gonna have to replace your rotors really often..

and i was with dc5s stock pads. planning on going with hawk ceramic pads soon to get a better bit

but if you're on 4 lug just grab the hawk ceramic pads(low dust) or hps(dusty). either one is good for dd
I am not ready to do a major brake over haul. I am 5 lug. I'm trying to save for a suspension and maybe a swap before I quit my job and go to school full time.

You sure it wasn't the ABS? The pedal will pulsate when the ABS is working.
Couldn't have been abs as it was doing it at low speeds and light pressure. It started when I was running 130 and I hit the brakes. I am assuming 130 heats the brakes up pretty quick. Once I got home, maybe 5 minutes later, I could smell the pads and I could feel the heat radiating. Once I gave it a couple hours to cool down the issue disappeared. But the next time I get froggy and decide to run over a buck again, I don't want to run into the same issue.

[lemonhead228]

Its not that expensive... i got my calipers, pads(good condition), and rotors for 100 all together.. just gotta find your deals bro

Edit:
heres a guy on crsx selling front calipers for 90 shipped
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=837626

and heres a guy selling front rotors for 30 obo
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=814568

You get a GREAT upgrade for just about 120 all together.. you can prolly get it for less if you kno what you're doing hahah

[rd02SiR]

Always cool your brakes, especially after doing 130, before parking your car. Drive an extra 10min with out hitting the brakes at highway speed. No matter what the setup, if you dont cool down your brakes, youll warp them. Driving with out hitting the brakes at highway speed will cool much better than letting them sit.

[Draw7Seven]

Always cool your brakes, especially after doing 130, before parking your car. Drive an extra 10min with out hitting the brakes at highway speed. No matter what the setup, if you dont cool down your brakes, youll warp them. Driving with out hitting the brakes at highway speed will cool much better than letting them sit.

This. And don't go 130 on the highway. And if you can afford to, try to do more engine braking at those speeds than wheel braking.

[Blah1219]

Why the hell are you going over a buck in the first place?! Chill out man. That poor a3 is going to detonate in a million pieces! Go with the rsx-s rotors and calipers with SS lines. More surface area with those rotors.

[dble0]

This was honestly the first time I have ever broken 110 for more than a couple seconds, in five years that I have had her. I don't intend on doing it very often at all(if ever again really). The experience just got me thinking. If I could improve my brakes for a reasonable price then why not, what would it hurt? By the way I kind of like the idea of the new calipers for that price but the rotors thread is like a year old. Time to bust out the guns, or fingers in this case, and do some hunting. Thanks for the info guys, any more is greatly appreciated. Oh, what is the best way to paint calipers(the ones for sale look rough)?

[Draw7Seven]

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Fluids-and-Chemicals/Brake-Caliper-Paint/_/N-25yv

[Zzyzx]

well a blank rotor has more surface area, period. More surface are = greater stopping power.

while your intentions are good, and reasons for going with blank rotors more or less correct... the statement above is not.

Friction is not subject to surface area. Pressure, yes. coefficient of friction of the two materials in contact, yes. Surface area no. The reason being is that as surface area increases pressure per square mm decreases, offsetting the increase in surface area.

[USAF EP3]

This. And don't go 130 on the highway. And if you can afford to, try to do more engine braking at those speeds than wheel braking.

Uh oh..I went 150+ earlier last year with the A3 when I had the Greddy kit...needed to show that E46 M3 that the EP3 can hang with it lol...

Please don't spank me daddy...

Agreed on the engine braking, TAKES FOREVER TO GO FROM 150 DOWN TO 100 X_X

[Draw7Seven]

It's one thing if you kill yourself, but it's arguably worse to live with knowing that you killed somebody else's loved one who wasn't even doing anything wrong. Anyways that's an entirely different topic and I'm not going to change any of your minds.

[lemonhead228]

This was honestly the first time I have ever broken 110 for more than a couple seconds, in five years that I have had her. I don't intend on doing it very often at all(if ever again really). The experience just got me thinking. If I could improve my brakes for a reasonable price then why not, what would it hurt? By the way I kind of like the idea of the new calipers for that price but the rotors thread is like a year old. Time to bust out the guns, or fingers in this case, and do some hunting. Thanks for the info guys, any more is greatly appreciated. Oh, what is the best way to paint calipers(the ones for sale look rough)?

The thread is a year old but he just bumped it like 2 days ago so he just updated it bro


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Fluids-and-Chemicals/Brake-Caliper-Paint/_/N-25yv

Yea thats what i use but the sliver one. When you get it, take everything apart and get a metal pipe cleaner brush and clean out the rods with pb blast, dry and clean, relube them.

while your intentions are good, and reasons for going with blank rotors more or less correct... the statement above is not.

Friction is not subject to surface area. Pressure, yes. coefficient of friction of the two materials in contact, yes. Surface area no. The reason being is that as surface area increases pressure per square mm decreases, offsetting the increase in surface area.

This post just gave me a headache for no reason LOL jk this man kno his stuff. had to reread it a couple of times to get it..


It's one thing if you kill yourself, but it's arguably worse to live with knowing that you killed somebody else's loved one who wasn't even doing anything wrong. Anyways that's an entirely different topic and I'm not going to change any of your minds.

I feel you on this one homey..

[Powers]

I have to agree with almost every one in this thread. Upgrades are sweet and if your going to add more power you should always add more stopping power.

But there's no need to do that on the street. If you want to go that fast bring it to a track around you.

I mean no disrespect or anything. I just hate to see people die for the wrong decisions.

[dble0]

Like I said first time, and probably one of the only times, I have ever done over a buck for more then a second or two. I tend to keep it below 90 99.999% of the time.