Help - I need Reflash/Kpro advice quick!

[Cheep3]

Long story but it goes like this. I have an 05 si - its ecu cannot be relashed. I picked up an earlier ecu and sent it in with my key and immobilizer for a reflash - purchased through Club RSX. I told both Club RSX and Hondata that it was a "donor" ecu. I spent $85. to overnight everything. Hondata calls me this morning and tells me they can't reflash the ecu because its not synched to the key and immobilizer. No one every told me that it had to be running in the car before they
could reflash it!?

So now they still have my key and immobilizer with the donor ecu so my car is not going anywhere. I borrowed a car for 2 days but may have to rent one tomorrow. I'm waiting for K-series Parts (formerly Club RSX) to return my email but the manager is having a baby today.

I debating to have them go ahead and give me K-Pro which will cost twice what I was planning on spending. I think the Kpro is complete overkill for my lame bolt-ons.

My main question is: how hard would it be to get a basic "reflash" type tune with K-pro? If I go through with this I will definitely not be able to take it to a tuner. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I will only have a few hours to decide what to do. Thanks in advance!

[gribly]

Honestly, everyone is just gonna tell you to buy a K-PRO. The software will have some base tunes already on it, one of which is pretty similar to the reflash. Now, I don't have either, but I've been reading about it, so I'm just an armchair expert. Take what I say with a grain of salt and do your own research.

[Draw7Seven]

You can run the stock .kal's that come with the program. They're pretty conservative so you won't be beating up your engine by doing it. Making a KPro act like a reflash is much easier than making a reflash act like a KPro.

It is a lot of money though, if you're not planning on ever needing a customizeable ECU in the future. Do the math on renting the car etc. and figure out how much you're spending each way. If the difference is only like 100 bucks maybe it's worth just having KPro since you can always sell a KPro'd ECU to make some of your money back down the road. It might be worth it even monetarily depending on the difference in downtime (car rentals aren't cheap).

But to answer your primary question, it would be very simple to load a base map into the ECU and run off of it indefinitely. It's kind of a "waste of KPro" in some people's minds but plenty of people do it as they save up for a tune or buy mods that actually require careful tuning.

[m3nace]

Kpro is worth it imo you can use a base map and run it while you save up for a tune. You can use kpro also to check cel and to delete them and you can read temps, with a little bit of reading youll learn alot about your car and if you learn enough you can do a basic street tune or there are plenty of people online that do online tuning if you give them the correct info theyll tell you what to do and you just follow instructions and its cheaper than going to a professional tune

[playap07]

Cheep3,

Do Kpro! Its more helpful than you know it. When I was on simple bolt on I would simply use the 91 octane base map they had on the ECU to run with 91 octane at my gas stations and then eventually i went turbo and all i did was switch maps to the turboed map. Easy as 1 2 3 man. I didnt even think i had to send my keys in to get kpro, just the ecu. I think there was also a price drop in how much kpro cost and theres also a bigger harddrive on it compared to when I first ordered it. Its a win win situation in my opinion. One of the best mods on my car!!!

[Cheep3]

Thanks for the input / info guys. It's a hard call. If I get the donor ecu back K-pro'd I'll still have to either get the immobilizer set by the dealer (another $100) or live with the key light on and possibility of easy theft. Does anyone know if a Kpro ecu is ready to go when it arrives or do you still have to download a tune?

[Draw7Seven]

I thought they put a base map on it based one what you told them you drive, but I could be wrong.

[tlikethedrink]

Thanks for the input / info guys. It's a hard call. If I get the donor ecu back K-pro'd I'll still have to either get the immobilizer set by the dealer (another $100) or live with the key light on and possibility of easy theft. Does anyone know if a Kpro ecu is ready to go when it arrives or do you still have to download a tune?

Just turn the immobilizer off for the time being if you get it. You will have to live with the light... Some people pull the bulb- I personally slapped a little sticker over the flashing key. This isn't the best solution by far but I got tired of the key always catching my eye... especially at night! You can have it flashed later tho. I've read some say it was done for as low as $45.

As for base Kals : you can use stock, low octane, high octane to be safe for now. Very easy to do .Or you can use a shared Kal- tons of people share Kals! They're good for bolt ons as bases. Online / Etunes are cheap enough to clean up or customize to your mods/altitude. You even may find some one to help you out for free!

[Lenus]

Get K-pro! you can turn off the immobilizer. The light might bother you for a while, but you can get used to it in time.

[Cheep3]

Thanks again for all the input. I went ahead and shelled out the extra 400 for the K-pro. :mmph: I should have the ecu back on Fri... I just downloaded K-manager. Hopefully I can get the basics down and get the car running Fri. for work and Sun. for autocross! :bounce: Wish me luck...

[klik]

Kpro is the shit i have it. you will love it im curently working on a k24a2 swap.

[Cheep3]

Kpro is the shit i have it. you will love it im curently working on a k24a2 swap.

Hey quick question. What do you recommend for a starting tune? I have stock K20a3 with CAI/Short Header/ Cat Back. Is the "high octane" a good starting point? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

[Cheep3]

Update and recap - Hopefully someone can help me - I am a total newb to K-pro and just installed mine this morning. I was only going to get a reflash but Hondata couldn't do it due to an immobilizer problem so I went ahead and sprung for Kpro.
Anyhow I started out with a High Octane stock tune. My car has basic I/H/E (k20a3). Car ran fine - went out for several drives this morning taking it easy and only got on it a little bit. I was totally impressed until I left for work this evening. Car had some hesitation under throttle and I now have a CEL on. I don't have a scanner with me but I will check it after I drive home carefully.
I am looking for advice on a calibration. I just want something as close to the Hondata reflash as I can find. I've already spent over twice what I was planning so I won't be getting a "tune" anytime soon if ever.
I also have an autocross this weekend and a Hill climb coming up soon. What should I do to keep it "safe"? Any help or advise would be extremely appreciated. Thanks!

[Ba82Ep3]

Try that KAL i posted in the KAL section... it should do ya fine to start. If you feel up to trying a street datalog, i can clean up your AFR's for ya (if they need it).

- Dave

[Cheep3]

Thanks so much! I am going to load this first thing tomorrow. If you don't mind I will totally hit you up with a datalog. I did a 7 min. one today. There were no errors or codes, but I'm completely clueless as to what I'm looking at or for. How do you share a datalog? Do I have to post it somewhere and link it like pictures?

[Ba82Ep3]

No you and i would email back and forth. You have to do a datalog (KDL) a certain way too. We can go over that in detail later though.

Use KPro to check your Error Codes (tab at the top of the KManager window) before you upload the new KAL. Write it down so you dont forget it. Upload the new KAL and drive it around... see if it feels any different and if the error code repeats itself. You can either post up your error code here... or you can e mail me. PM me for my e mail addy.

[AKEP]

damn too bad i didn't see this. lol.

[USAF EP3]

No you and i would email back and forth. You have to do a datalog (KDL) a certain way too. We can go over that in detail later though.

Use KPro to check your Error Codes (tab at the top of the KManager window) before you upload the new KAL. Write it down so you dont forget it. Upload the new KAL and drive it around... see if it feels any different and if the error code repeats itself. You can either post up your error code here... or you can e mail me. PM me for my e mail addy.

The car saves all your MIL codes. If you find your OBD2 port the pins are numbered 1-14 (I think). Use a small 18 Gauge wire and jump pins 4 and 9 and then turn the key to IGN(III). Your ABS, EPS and check engine lights will start flashing. It's like morse code: 1 long blink = +10 one short blink following that = +1

To find the OBD2 port sit down in the driver seat, reach down and put your hand on the RIGHT SIDE of your RIGHT KNEE. Now with the fuse panel cover taken off if you look to the right of where you placed your hand you should find the single GRAY port under the console.

EXAMPLE:
Code 13 = 1 long blink + 1 short + 1 short + 1 short = 13
Code 22 = 1 long + 1 long + 1 short + 1 short = 22

There will be a pause inbetween codes to let you know that a new code sequence is starting. Once all codes stored are flashed, they will start being repeated.

[Cheep3]

Hi - Thanks for chiming in. I have an actual code reader that says no codes - I'm assuming the paperclip method is just substitute for a code reader right? Kmanager doesn't show any as well. I just uploaded Ba82Ep3's tune from my laptop. No light - I will give it a drive and see what happens!

[USAF EP3]

Hi - Thanks for chiming in. I have an actual code reader that says no codes - I'm assuming the paperclip method is just substitute for a code reader right? Kmanager doesn't show any as well. I just uploaded Ba82Ep3's tune from my laptop. No light - I will give it a drive and see what happens!

Indeed, it's the DIY version of using a code reader. It's how i found my passenger front side ABS sensor came loose lol when a Snap-On code reader couldn't even figure that out.

[tinman5]

I recently went Kpro myself. Still learning. As far as the immobilizer light on the dash I simply unplugged the connector. You remove the covers from the steering column first, then you will notice this big black box with 3 green plugs. You will disconnect the last one closest to the dashboard. Insert the key and verify the car starts and drives as it should.

[Cheep3]

Thanks - and yeah, I stumbled across that also. I just left that one unplugged. Relieved not to have the flashing light but hope to maybe get it programmed by the dealer later. I'm being extra careful to keep it locked w/ alarm on till then. I'm pretty psyched right now - the new tune from Ba82Ep3 seems to be working perfect! :dance:

[Cheep3]

damn too bad i didn't see this. lol.

LOL - Your Kpro Beginners Guide summary was probably the first thing I read! I've been reading / searching a lot - but I'm definitely on the lower than normal modification range compared to most Kpro info. Any advise of words of wisdom are definitely appreciated!

[Hasbro]

Thanks - and yeah, I stumbled across that also. I just left that one unplugged. Relieved not to have the flashing light but hope to maybe get it programmed by the dealer later. I'm being extra careful to keep it locked w/ alarm on till then. I'm pretty psyched right now - the new tune from Ba82Ep3 seems to be working perfect! :dance:

Dave for the win. :mcool:

[Ba82Ep3]

The car saves all your MIL codes. If you find your OBD2 port the pins are numbered 1-14 (I think). Use a small 18 Gauge wire and jump pins 4 and 9 and then turn the key to IGN(III). Your ABS, EPS and check engine lights will start flashing. It's like morse code: 1 long blink = +10 one short blink following that = +1

To find the OBD2 port sit down in the driver seat, reach down and put your hand on the RIGHT SIDE of your RIGHT KNEE. Now with the fuse panel cover taken off if you look to the right of where you placed your hand you should find the single GRAY port under the console.

EXAMPLE:
Code 13 = 1 long blink + 1 short + 1 short + 1 short = 13
Code 22 = 1 long + 1 long + 1 short + 1 short = 22

There will be a pause inbetween codes to let you know that a new code sequence is starting. Once all codes stored are flashed, they will start being repeated.

WTF Kev? All that seems complicated. LOL :mwink:


I'm pretty psyched right now - the new tune from Ba82Ep3 seems to be working perfect! :dance:

Glad to hear it! Just lemme know if you need any help, ill do what i can. :thumbu:


Dave for the win. :mcool:


LOL Wait till you have KPro boss! Youll forget all about slip angles and friction coefficients... your new lingo will contain AFR's, ignition advance, and cam angles!

[Hasbro]

LOL Wait till you have KPro boss! Youll forget all about slip angles and friction coefficients... your new lingo will contain AFR's, ignition advance, and cam angles!

Will it help me get laid? I need to get laid.

[Ba82Ep3]

:pound:








... no ... lol

[AKEP]

Will it help me get laid? I need to get laid.

Yes, once you start throwing out "AIR FUEL RATIO" "TIMING ADVANCE" "FUEL TRIM" "DUTY CYCLE" and "3 DIMENTIONAL CAM ANGLES" you'll be drowning in pussy.

[Hasbro]

Yes, once you start throwing out "AIR FUEL RATIO" "TIMING ADVANCE" "FUEL TRIM" "DUTY CYCLE" and "3 DIMENTIONAL CAM ANGLES" you'll be drowning in pussy.

That's what they told me when I started learning king pin angle, hertz, and scrub radius. I own two cats, that's it.














I wonder if it would help to have a passenger seat?

[Cheep3]

I own two cats, that's it.
I pretty sure Menage a Kitty is illegal in your state! :whoa:

[Hasbro]

I pretty sure Menage a Kitty is illegal in your state! :whoa:

Plus they are my children! And males!! And under age!!!

Cheep, how's the KPro going?

[Cheep3]

K-pro is working amazingly well with Dave's tune! Autocrossed today and did well. Actually the car did better than me - it didn't miss a beat! It's amazing what a difference a few horsepower and rpm can make. I'm still smiling thinking about it. :becky: