Best Mods for $3000?

[honda2014]

I'm looking to buy an ep3 in the next months, and I am saving for modifications as well as the car. What are some of the best mods for the ep3 that increase overall driveability of the car?

[rds]

Kpro

[mussh]

kpro.
k24a2 swap.

that should be about 3k with install and a tune.

[303EP]

Kpro
Swap
Tune

And if there's anything left over do some suspension mods

[honda2014]

It seems like the k20a3 is a big downfall to the ep3. Is that with I/H/E or just the engine? Sorry for the nooby questions, I'll start looking into the swap.

[honda2014]

And would a good set of coilovers or maybe even springs and struts be best for a suspension mod? This will be a street car, and in the long run i would like to see around 220-250 hp.

[captaingamez]

And would a good set of coilovers or maybe even springs and struts be best for a suspension mod? This will be a street car, and in the long run i would like to see around 220-250 hp.

I prefer springs and struts over coilovers personally.

get a 2004 or 2005, whatever you do, do not buy an 02 unless its cheap, they have the older style keys, trust me I have one, and the 04/05 is 5 lug instead of 4.
2003 is still 4 lug but it got an upgraded immobilizer and keyset, the newer honda keys do not wear out when they get old like the older keys, with the newer keys, thiefs cant use "wiggler" keys to steal your car.

If I had 3k right now I would probably find a k24a2 around 1-1200$ then kpro $700. with a header, and catback. you MIGHT have enough left over for a set of shocks/struts. if you want 225 wheel HP then you need a k24a2 on a nice not real crazy tune.

and the k20a3 is the downfall, although they can be built to make good power, it is not an ideal starting point. they are still great engines, they last for ever and they are very reliable. but it is an eco engine, not a power engine with real 3 lobe vtec.

[Bwek]

Keep K20A3
Buy LSD
Buy Reflash
Buy suspension

Enjoy

[captaingamez]

LSD with a k20a3?, thats not done a whole lot, but the not having an LSD is the biggest downfall in the ep3 honestly. I would buy an 06+ trans (stock lsd) and the k24a2 with kpro and worry about the suspension later honestly. but there is nothing wrong with the NRH3 transmission either (stock ep3)

really when you lower the EP3 you need to install the extended ball joints from Buddy club, otherwise it doesnt handle that great. the ball joints correct the lower control arm angle.

[honda2014]

Is that key problem with the 02's only, or the 03's as well? I found an 03 for 5k obo on craigslist, with a k20a in it. And it comes with the stock a3!!

[captaingamez]

yeah just 02, all 03's I have seen come with the newer style keys. 5k is a decent price depending on condition, whats the mileage? obviously he will take less too. I would try 4k and see where he is at.

[poeticfinesse21]

Wow I totally disagree with a lot of what captaingamez said. Who wants a fast car that handles like shit? The very first "mod" that you should do is a decent set of sticky summer tires and I think most people here will agree with me. The suspension and brakes is the biggest downfall of this car so I would say start there. For $3k you can get tires, wheels, A-spec suspension, shocks + springs or coilovers, rear sway bar, upgraded brake pads and brake lines. There's nothing wrong with the 02 EP3's so don't be scared of buying one. I have an 02 with 204k miles and I've had no major issues with it.

[honda2014]

http://memphis.craigslist.org/cto/3923548541.html seems like a really good deal!! I love that ep3's are so cheap! I've been undecided if I want a dc2 or an ep3. Honestly, a good GSR is about the same price as an ep3. lol.

[honda2014]

Alright, thanks for the input. Yeah, the 3k could put the handling of this build to a perfect street spec suspension. But, I would still want more power. I feel like the suspension would be my best bet, though, since if I did have 220+ hp, I would have to have good suspension, or a new car after I pushed mine too far on its suspension.

[captaingamez]

they dont handle like shit til you lower them.

omg buy it, buy it now, run dont walk

dead freakin serious. make sure its a legit k20a, not a k20a marked a3

[honda2014]

How can I confirm that it is a k20a. Is that a rare swap? Or just worth the money like crazy? Did you see the dent? Why is it worth so much? Haha.....

Can someone confirm that this is a really good buy? I only have 1400 dollars right now and well, I would have to take out a bank loan to get it. Plus I am not planning to get one until at least 3 months in the future. Thanks.

[captaingamez]

well a genuine K20a is like 2-3 grand minimum just for the motor, if it has the JDM y2m3 gearbox then you are really in the business. you can verify by looking at the engine tag on the starter area and it should have a red valve cover and a few other things, like it should rev to around 8600 rpm. honestly I am not the authoritahh in jdm k20a's I just know that it is the cream of the crop for k series engines, and they run like a raped ape.

you should do some reading first to know wether it is a k20a or not but if it is, with a 6 speed, its worth more than 5 grand. a good bit more.

you can verify the Y2M3 gearbox by the serial number on the front of the gearbox it will start with Y2M3.

[poeticfinesse21]

It's most likely just a JDM K20A3. No way would a Type-R swapped EP3 go for that cheap unless something is seriously wrong with it.

[poeticfinesse21]

Just a FYI, all JDM K20's are stamped "K20A"

[jeenyusss]

depending on how u feel about it you can also try and find an already lightly or heavily modded ep and use that extra 3k for the price of the car being more. just a thought.

[mussh]

I have a jdm k20a type r in my 03.

if that guy is really selling a legit k20a, for 5k, buy it and call it a day.

call him and ask him what ecu he used for his swap.
if he used the type r ecu than its gonna have issues running on our crap 93-94 octane gas and have 113 mph limiter.
if he says tuned on kpro....run and buy it!
if he says he used the stock k20a3 ecu then two things are possible.
1. he is running a type r engine on a k20a3 ecu and it is running like ass.
2. he has a jdm k20a3 stamped with k20a.. (should have a black plastic intake manifold) I think that was one of the main differences.

I would never ever consider letting mine go for 5k.......ever.

[poeticfinesse21]

depending on how u feel about it you can also try and find an already lightly or heavily modded ep and use that extra 3k for the price of the car being more. just a thought.

Buying someone else's project is always bad news. Another thing you could do is use that extra $3k to buy a real car like a S2000, miata, IS300 or maybe even a k-swapped DC2/DB8 integra or EG/EK civic.....but that last one goes back to buying someone else's project

[captaingamez]

Just a FYI, all JDM K20's are stamped "K20A"
right you will need to verify some things other than just it has a red valve cover.


I have a jdm k20a type r in my 03.

if that guy is really selling a legit k20a, for 5k, buy it and call it a day.

call him and ask him what ecu he used for his swap.
if he used the type r ecu than its gonna have issues running on our crap 93-94 octane gas and have 113 mph limiter.
if he says tuned on kpro....run and buy it!
if he says he used the stock k20a3 ecu then two things are possible.
1. he is running a type r engine on a k20a3 ecu and it is running like ass.
2. he has a jdm k20a3 stamped with k20a.. (should have a black plastic intake manifold) I think that was one of the main differences.

I would never ever consider letting mine go for 5k.......ever.
this^^ do they really have a 113mph limiter? DC5R too?


Buying someone else's project is always bad news. Another thing you could do is use that extra $3k to buy a real car like a S2000, miata, IS300 or maybe even a k-swapped DC2/DB8 integra or EG/EK civic.....but that last one goes back to buying someone else's project

oh yeah I forgot EP3s arent real cars.

nothing wrong with buying a built car, they arent all projects, just make sure its legit.

[mussh]

do they really have a 113mph limiter? DC5R too?

I know that in japan stock ecu's are limited to 113 mph, hahaha or atleast the k20a type r ecu is.

the Nissan gtr, in japan, has an ecu that will release the 113 mph limit, when the gps indicates your on a track.

thank god for kpro.

[captaingamez]

do they really have a 113mph limiter? DC5R too?

I know that in japan stock ecu's are limited to 113 mph, hahaha or atleast the k20a type r ecu is.

the Nissan gtr, in japan, has an ecu that will release the 113 mph limit, when the gps indicates your on a track.

thank god for kpro.

shit I guess I did sort of know that, at least I knew about the GTR.

[honda2014]

Thanks for all the great info guys, I really appreciate it.

[honda2014]

Are there any more suggestions to the thread topic? Just to say, this car will be a daily driven car while I am in college, with little mods done to it in all year round except for summer. Goals would be 200+ hp, everyday driveability but with a lot of edge. A good street setup suspension, along with upgraded rotors, pads, and lines, and probably a Type R lip and spoiler kit if I can find one, I'm a sucker for them. And dont forget the Type R CTR wheels!! Haha. To clarify, I know I couldn't get all this with just $3000, but I want to know what the best way to go first is. Thanks for the opinions!!

[poeticfinesse21]

Tires, tires, tires.....then go from there

[honda2014]

Tires, tires, tires.....then go from there
I don't know whether it would be better to get a-spec suspension or I/H/E first. Or if I should even keep the k20a3 and save to swap out for another engine. If I kept the a3 I would probably supercharge it, but I really don't know how effective it is on the k20a3. I guess I'll read more.. but tomorrow. It's 2:14 a.m. Lol. Why do I have to be a car freak???

[gtecd20]

Swap in k24a2 call it a day

[poeticfinesse21]

Start with tires/suspension/brakes followed by intake/header/exhaust and run the stock A3 until it dies. My EP3 has 204k miles and I drive about 500 miles a week so it will go up.

[captaingamez]

I would do both, I hated my a3. it is a totally different vehicle in every way with a k24 or a better k20 in it. totally different.

[Bwek]

LSD with a k20a3?, thats not done a whole lot, but the not having an LSD is the biggest downfall in the ep3 honestly. I would buy an 06+ trans (stock lsd) and the k24a2 with kpro and worry about the suspension later honestly. but there is nothing wrong with the NRH3 transmission either (stock ep3)

really when you lower the EP3 you need to install the extended ball joints from Buddy club, otherwise it doesnt handle that great. the ball joints correct the lower control arm angle.

I find that I need an LSD when im on the track and autoX I can easily spin my 225's in Second coming out of a corner just because that one inner wheel always gets unloaded

You Do Not Need Extended Ball joints to make the car handle good lowered. I don't have them and my car is on rails easily keep up with lighter Eg's and Ek's

as Far as power goes My car with an Aem intake, DC5R header, 2.5" midpipe, stock axle back easily Keeps up with a GSR integra with the same mods on the main straight at my Local track

[captaingamez]

I find that I need an LSD when im on the track and autoX I can easily spin my 225's in Second coming out of a corner just because that one inner wheel always gets unloaded

You Do Not Need Extended Ball joints to make the car handle good lowered. I don't have them and my car is on rails easily keep up with lighter Eg's and Ek's

as Far as power goes My car with an Aem intake, DC5R header, 2.5" midpipe, stock axle back easily Keeps up with a GSR integra with the same mods on the main straight at my Local track

I dont get why Honda hasnt been putting LSD in for years, its really needed on any car with front wheel drive.

if you dont have the ball joints, you NEED them. install them and you seriously will not believe the difference. if you autox you will send me a thank you card, trust me, they are just that big of an improvement,

and of course they are barely ever done, and looked at as a useless accessory....

Wrong, my buddy with nice Ksports and all manner of similar suspension components on his ep, drove mine, and mine turns faster and is more responsive than his, thats what he told me at least. and it was because the difference in the suspension geometry is that huge. Honda literally designed the DC5 and the EP3 so they dont handle as well when they are lowered. if you lok under your car when your sitting not jacked up, you wil notice that your lower control arm is probably flat, well once your suspension starts moving it compresses and then it gives you positive camber, an Ideal control arm should give you either negative or no change in camber when its compressed up, everytime your wheel compresses your shock in an EP3/DC5 it changes the angle on the control arm, it changes your camber from what you have it at, to more positive, which is bad and unpredictable. this is why the ball joints are neccessary, they angle the control arms down farther when your lowered so when your suspension compresses, you dont get positive camber.

the bushings also turn into a big issue when your pushing the suspension. they stretch to cause toe changes so you dont go off the road backwards. replacing those and the ball joints in the front end are the two biggest handling improvements I made to my ep3, after messing with springs struts and coilovers for a couple years, I finally got the ball joints and bushings done, totally different vehicle.

[lemonhead228]

K24a2>sc k20a3 all day err day

[honda2014]

Well, I guess long term goals with an ep3 would probably be a sc k24a2 with lsd, a good street suspension, good street suspension, something like the a spec or hfp suspension, and upgraded brakes to handle the beefier engine, well, the monster sc k24, hopefully lol. I would say all of that would probably be around 8-9 grand, and my best bet would probably be to swap out the a3 for a k24a2, with full bolt ons and a tune, and then try and slightly upgrade suspension, brake lines and pads, and wheels and tires. That would be 4-5k, So that means I'll need to save about 5 grand and hopefully match my parents on it. Anybody with articles to read about my plan in any way, post up. I've been reading alot about the k series and all the different headers and fitment and whatnot with ep3's. Thanks for all the discussion!!! Much appreciated.

[Bwek]

Actually My car isn't slammed and my LCA's aren't level with the ground they are pointed down.

I've already done the bushings.

My car isn't slammed nor will it ever be. Ive got at least 10 years into Honda's

there alot of reasons why your car may feel like it turns in faster from Toe settings to springs to sway bar size to tires to bushings

If I were to go lower I would do the ball joints but i like driving over speed bumps like a normal car


they probably didn't do LSD's in north america because as great as they are they can actually cause a car to push through a corner,steering turned on gas both wheels spinning the car will go straight like say in snow or rain, where as an Open diff car will just not go anywhere.


Anyways OP do the suspension stuff, tires and brakes go do some autox or lapping days and learn how to drive the car, you'll find that having 220 hp or 160 hp won't make a Huge difference on the track... You can ask the guy with an Ep3 and a JDM type R swap he maybe got 3-4 car lengths on my by the end of the straight and I have Type S brakes caught him every time ;)

[captaingamez]

even i f your not slammed, eventually your arm likely goes flat which is bad.

I have driven the car aligned to the same specs at not slammed height with and without the ball joints. trust me, they are the biggest improvement in the entire suspension of the car without goint to DC5R suspension, and even that is way better with the ball joints. I am about to buy all of it and it wont touch my car til the ball joints are installed.

I really wish you could drive my car to see the difference it is tremendous, I have even turned 2 other people on to them that noticed a massive improvement.


but nothing compares with seat time.

[apexracing]

Buddy club ball joints are a terrible design with no retaining clip. I would go with a good set of coilovers, a rear camber kit, type s rear sway bar, and a buddy club short shifter. Start there and see how you feel about the car. If the car needs tires then get tires. But if they have good tread get some use out of them and get something sticky for your next set.

[captaingamez]

Buddy club ball joints are a terrible design with no retaining clip. I would go with a good set of coilovers, a rear camber kit, type s rear sway bar, and a buddy club short shifter. Start there and see how you feel about the car. If the car needs tires then get tires. But if they have good tread get some use out of them and get something sticky for your next set.
they do have a retaining clip. and mine have lasted for 80k miles, and i beat them very hard.

[honda2014]

A spec suspension, an anti roll bar, lower control arms and a brace, upgraded brake pads, an exhaust, maybe rotors, and some nice wheels and tires, and I think I'll call it a day. K24 swap for later, or if I have the time and money. I doubt I will, though.

[poeticfinesse21]

Buddy club ball joints are a terrible design with no retaining clip. I would go with a good set of coilovers, a rear camber kit, type s rear sway bar, and a buddy club short shifter. Start there and see how you feel about the car. If the car needs tires then get tires. But if they have good tread get some use out of them and get something sticky for your next set.

You are 100% right there and I always tell people that. They do not have the clip and are known to pop out of the knuckle. If you really want some extended ball joints then go with hardrace or save up for some j's racing ones.

[captaingamez]

You are 100% right there and I always tell people that. They do not have the clip and are known to pop out of the knuckle. If you really want some extended ball joints then go with hardrace or save up for some j's racing ones.

they absolutely do have the clip, that I fully guarantee you, if yours didnt come with it call BC.


just look at the pics on the internet, seriously, unless they changed the design in the last 3-4 years, they have a clip.

and where are you getting this? I have only read the shit about popping out about the J's Racing ones

[syncmaster]

A spec suspension, an anti roll bar, lower control arms and a brace, upgraded brake pads, an exhaust, maybe rotors, and some nice wheels and tires, and I think I'll call it a day. K24 swap for later, or if I have the time and money. I doubt I will, though.

I second this, except ditch the lower control arms and get an intake and the Hondata reflash instead of an exhaust.

[Drew1d]

+1
Tires, tires, tires.....then go from there
I would start small. An Intake, larger rear sway bar and def tires. Perhaps using some of the money for maintenace items. New rotors and good pads, New serpantine belt, new clutch, new plugs for the motor. Changing all the fluids and having the valve lash adjusted. If your state permits it, doing some exhaust work is always good. It's these little things that will bring some of the perfomance back into the car.

I know it's not as sexy as lowering springs and new dampers or body kits, but you have to give the car what it needs and that makes it a nicer car.

[captaingamez]

I second this, except ditch the lower control arms and get an intake and the Hondata reflash instead of an exhaust.

I agree, the rear LCAs arent needed for a while.

[poeticfinesse21]

they absolutely do have the clip, that I fully guarantee you, if yours didnt come with it call BC.


just look at the pics on the internet, seriously, unless they changed the design in the last 3-4 years, they have a clip.

and where are you getting this? I have only read the shit about popping out about the J's Racing ones

Maybe you have the original design or something cuz none of the ones I've seen sold in the past 2 or 3 years have the retaining clip. Look them up, they do not come with the clip anymore

[captaingamez]

Maybe you have the original design or something cuz none of the ones I've seen sold in the past 2 or 3 years have the retaining clip. Look them up, they do not come with the clip anymore

that is wierd, I mean if you look at the pictures on the interwebz, you can see some of them show clips, some dont. maybe they did change the design since I bought mine, It was over 3 years ago so idk.

if they did, I will be looking for an alternative because that is shitty. as I said though, I heard bad things about the J's racing ones. idk now......

[honda2014]

Wouldn't a reflash be silly if I was planning to get Kpro eventually anyways?

[Draw7Seven]

Wouldn't a reflash be silly if I was planning to get Kpro eventually anyways?

It reduces the cost of the KPro, they offer you some kind of discount if you're already reflashed. Other than that, yes. I'm not sure that the discount is the full cost of the reflash.

[captaingamez]

I second this, except ditch the lower control arms and get an intake and the Hondata reflash instead of an exhaust.

just get the full on Kpro, the reflash isnt worth it IMHO.

[honda2014]

I'd rather have that go into an exhaust that I can use after bigger plans for the engine. Probably a ws2. Do k20 intakes fit on a k24? If so, I would probably get an intake, velocity stack, etc. Also, since I am gonna be going off to college with at the least 3 months downtime to work on the car, I feel like Kpro would be silly. I would save that for when I do major engine upgrades. I only said ower control arms for the new poly bushings that they would have. Poly bushings are great, I love them compared to work out stock ones, so that's why I said that. I think I would still get them, plus a subframe brace, and strut bars. Unless someone would advise against it for a reason besides and intake and ecu reflash.

[mussh]

"Do k20 intakes fit on a k24"

all depends on what intake manifold you use.

this is how i would do it if i was you.
1.kpro
2.suspension

after you do those two mods, you are pretty much set to go on anything else you decide.
if you get an engine swap, you will have kpro already to go and your suspension will be set to put that power to the ground.

[captaingamez]

I'd rather have that go into an exhaust that I can use after bigger plans for the engine. Probably a ws2. Do k20 intakes fit on a k24? If so, I would probably get an intake, velocity stack, etc. Also, since I am gonna be going off to college with at the least 3 months downtime to work on the car, I feel like Kpro would be silly. I would save that for when I do major engine upgrades. I only said ower control arms for the new poly bushings that they would have. Poly bushings are great, I love them compared to work out stock ones, so that's why I said that. I think I would still get them, plus a subframe brace, and strut bars. Unless someone would advise against it for a reason besides and intake and ecu reflash.

why would Kpro be silly? personally I think the reflash is silly. especially if you are planning to go bigger in the future. just my opinion. you will get more out of Kpro, and you will be able to tune in your specific intake and exhaust better, If I bought the reflash I wouldnt be satisfied. BUT, it doesnt really cost any more to upgrade to Kpro if you do get the reflash

control arms are great, once you have done EVERYTHING else in your suspension. otherwise they are bling and that is all. the rear lower control arm bushings arent even really a huge weak point, mine have 260k and are still perfectly fine. all the other bushings in the car suck balls and need replaced before you even come near to gaining a performance advantage from poly bushings or rear lower control arms.

$3000

Hondata Kpro -$800 or less brand new and installed. or 4-600 for a used one.
Exhaust of your choice $800 or less Brand new, or used one for less than $500

leave your stock intake and exhaust manifolds
test pipe -$100 or less.
decent CAI, $200 ish.

that leaves you with 1100 to spend on the suspension if you buy everything new. that should be more than enough to get something good and driveable on the street.

[honda2014]

why would Kpro be silly? personally I think the reflash is silly. especially if you are planning to go bigger in the future. just my opinion. you will get more out of Kpro, and you will be able to tune in your specific intake and exhaust better, If I bought the reflash I wouldnt be satisfied. BUT, it doesnt really cost any more to upgrade to Kpro if you do get the reflash

control arms are great, once you have done EVERYTHING else in your suspension. otherwise they are bling and that is all. the rear lower control arm bushings arent even really a huge weak point, mine have 260k and are still perfectly fine. all the other bushings in the car suck balls and need replaced before you even come near to gaining a performance advantage from poly bushings or rear lower control arms.

$3000

Hondata Kpro -$800 or less brand new and installed. or 4-600 for a used one.
Exhaust of your choice $800 or less Brand new, or used one for less than $500

leave your stock intake and exhaust manifolds
test pipe -$100 or less.
decent CAI, $200 ish.

that leaves you with 1100 to spend on the suspension if you buy everything new. that should be more than enough to get something good and driveable on the street.

Well, after much more reading and learning, Kpro seems like the best upgrade along with anything more than an intake. And, I will need it in the future, if I keep the car. I'll try and look for a car with Kpro already installed, it would be great to be able to have minor things like Kpro and a good intake already on their. A WS2 exhaust seems in order, as well, since this will be a daily driven street car of a poor college kid. And I think that's all the engine mods I could afford on my budget. A spec suspension, wheels and tires, and a new timing belt/water pump/etc just for peace of mind and preventative maintenance. That will be a just shy of $4000 right there, with a tune.

As for the bushings, I was talking about replacing all of them, or at least, get a full kit and replace all the shot ones. Buying lower control arms is almost worth the hassle of pressing in new bushings, to me, at least. lol.

[poeticfinesse21]

Don't waste your money on a WS2. Don't get me wrong, it sounds amazing but it is WAAAAAAY overpriced for a catback that is not made of stainless steel. Best bargain for exhaust: OBX race header, megan or 05-06 RSX-S midpipe and stock axleback.

[syncmaster]

just get the full on Kpro, the reflash isnt worth it IMHO.

Also as mentioned, if you upgrade to Kpro in the future, Hondata discounts it by the full cost you paid for the reflash...

[honda2014]

Don't waste your money on a WS2. Don't get me wrong, it sounds amazing but it is WAAAAAAY overpriced for a catback that is not made of stainless steel. Best bargain for exhaust: OBX race header, megan or 05-06 RSX-S midpipe and stock axleback.

I would rather wait for a high performance header rather than eBay product. If anything, I would just wait. I can see myself supercharging within a year of having the car, so i would probably want to slowly get the parts I want for that, and then have everything ready on the power levels that I *may* want. Either way, I'm not a fan of buying eBay parts. I bought an eBay camber kit for my car and it broke on me in a test drive. Since then, I try and stay away from off brand Ebay crap, although OBX and Megan are both popular and I hear good things(and bad) about them.

[captaingamez]

I second this, except ditch the lower control arms and get an intake and the Hondata reflash instead of an exhaust.


Well, after much more reading and learning, Kpro seems like the best upgrade along with anything more than an intake. And, I will need it in the future, if I keep the car. I'll try and look for a car with Kpro already installed, it would be great to be able to have minor things like Kpro and a good intake already on their. A WS2 exhaust seems in order, as well, since this will be a daily driven street car of a poor college kid. And I think that's all the engine mods I could afford on my budget. A spec suspension, wheels and tires, and a new timing belt/water pump/etc just for peace of mind and preventative maintenance. That will be a just shy of $4000 right there, with a tune.

As for the bushings, I was talking about replacing all of them, or at least, get a full kit and replace all the shot ones. Buying lower control arms is almost worth the hassle of pressing in new bushings, to me, at least. lol.

DITCH THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS.

their useless bling and my almost 300K MILE ONES BUSHINGS ARE STILL PERFECT.

PLUS the energy suspension bushing kit doesnt even come with those bushings.

the arms are the LAST thing you need in your suspension to improve it.


additionally I have to ask, if your a broke college kid, why are you spending $4k on mods? I would kpro, suspension and be done with it.

[poeticfinesse21]

I would rather wait for a high performance header rather than eBay product. If anything, I would just wait. I can see myself supercharging within a year of having the car, so i would probably want to slowly get the parts I want for that, and then have everything ready on the power levels that I *may* want. Either way, I'm not a fan of buying eBay parts. I bought an eBay camber kit for my car and it broke on me in a test drive. Since then, I try and stay away from off brand Ebay crap, although OBX and Megan are both popular and I hear good things(and bad) about them.

Who said anything about eBay? :confused:

Look when you buy from the "bargain" brands, usually any item with moving parts is bad news but exhaust parts? Essentially they're all just metal pipes. The OBX V2 header is an exact replica of the comptech header

[captaingamez]

Who said anything about eBay? :confused:

Look when you buy from the "bargain" brands, usually any item with moving parts is bad news but exhaust parts? Essentially they're all just metal pipes. The OBX V2 header is an exact replica of the comptech header

+1 on exhaust being a metal tube. lol

yes

I did not know that it was a knock off comptech. I have been thinking about one for a while, I think you just sent me over the edge on it.

[honda2014]

DITCH THE LOWER CONTROL ARMS.

their useless bling and my almost 300K MILE ONES BUSHINGS ARE STILL PERFECT.

PLUS the energy suspension bushing kit doesnt even come with those bushings.

the arms are the LAST thing you need in your suspension to improve it.


additionally I have to ask, if your a broke college kid, why are you spending $4k on mods? I would kpro, suspension and be done with it.

I'm not a broke college kid. I'm about to be a senior in high school and I'll be getting the car sometime this year, I'm saving now and just getting ideas together. I've really wanted an ep3 for months. I'm just looking at it from that point of view, since most college kids are pretty poor, even though I have a lot of scholarship opportunity.

[captaingamez]

since this will be a daily driven street car of a poor college kid.

^that

if your gonna be poor, you dont need a fully worked car.

[honda2014]

^that

if your gonna be poor, you dont need a fully worked car.

Do you think I should get a plain jane car and just be happy with it until I get 30 and have a good job?

[mussh]

Do you think I should get a plain jane car and just be happy with it until I get 30 and have a good job?

I would say no.
get any car you want man, its a free country. do anything you want to it, because its yours.

ep3 is a very cool car, but im finding it to be really expensive compared to other cars I have owned.
the reward is worth the money in my opinion.
set goals for yourself. working on a car is a great hobby. hahah expensive, but a great hobby.
I wish I had a ep3 as my first car. you really are getting a nice chasis right off the bat.

[honda2014]

I would say no.
get any car you want man, its a free country. do anything you want to it, because its yours.

ep3 is a very cool car, but im finding it to be really expensive compared to other cars I have owned.
the reward is worth the money in my opinion.
set goals for yourself. working on a car is a great hobby. hahah expensive, but a great hobby.
I wish I had a ep3 as my first car. you really are getting a nice chasis right off the bat.


Haha, thanks. I was being sarcastic. I know how to budget and plan money, and I know to put maintenance in front of any kind of modications, along with having a back up savings if something were to happen to my car. And this wouldn't be all my money. It would be my spending money that most college kids go out to dinner with/drink with/buy drugs with/ etc. I just found what captaingamez said pretty offensive. And I won't be poor, hopefully, but I act like I am now and I will always act like I am. That's how people stay away from poverty, they become frugal. Cars have always been amazing to me and I want to modify an ep3. And I figured they would be pretty expensive. Honda parts are usually high, especially less common ones/Acuras. Since this car isn't popular whatsoever, at least where I am, I expected high replacement parts. Thanks for all the feedback, even you, captaingamez.

[Hasbro]

He's irascible but very loveable. :mbiggrin:

I don't see the EP as any more expensive to modify. There are plenty of used parts around and there are no exotic unobtanium parts that cost a fortune.

[mussh]

there was a guy in west Virginia selling a ep3 that already had a k24 swap.
the guy only wanted 6k for it.
in my opinion it was one hell of a deal. looked like he cared about it also, it was in really good shape.
found his listing: http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?73041-2004-Civic-Si-profesionally-SWAPPED-professionally-tuned-K-pro-K24-accord-engine-WV
its probably already sold....but if you keep your eyes peeled you might get lucky.

[captaingamez]

Do you think I should get a plain jane car and just be happy with it until I get 30 and have a good job?

I never even remotely Implied that, did you read my post? I questioned you IMMEDIATE modding. not your car choice. this shit is expensive.


Haha, thanks. I was being sarcastic. I know how to budget and plan money, and I know to put maintenance in front of any kind of modications, along with having a back up savings if something were to happen to my car. And this wouldn't be all my money. It would be my spending money that most college kids go out to dinner with/drink with/buy drugs with/ etc. I just found what captaingamez said pretty offensive. And I won't be poor, hopefully, but I act like I am now and I will always act like I am. That's how people stay away from poverty, they become frugal. Cars have always been amazing to me and I want to modify an ep3. And I figured they would be pretty expensive. Honda parts are usually high, especially less common ones/Acuras. Since this car isn't popular whatsoever, at least where I am, I expected high replacement parts. Thanks for all the feedback, even you, captaingamez.

dont know why you found ANYTHING I said offensive in any way shape or form.

your pretty thin skinned

additionally I quoted YOU, YOU said you would be a POOR COLLEGE KID.

dont get butt hurt.

Frankly I dont care really, I just thought you might want some of our knowledge on modding the ep.

I just made a suggestion that yo not blow every dime on your car IMMEDIATELY. I would do it gradually.

[tlikethedrink]

$3k to mod is alot! but it will go quickly, especially if your buying $300 intakes and $500 catbacks....

i would:
RSX A spec suspension ($6-700)
nice beefy functional set of wheels and tires (225's) with 16 or 17s ($1000)

(02-03) wing ($250 painted) and side skirts ($300 painted)

(04-05) wing ($250 painted)

i would try and find used I/H/E.... even some ebay parts.
you can probably buy a used intake or ebay one for $50
i bought and ebay catback and loved it for $100
kpro can be had for cheap now-a-days. avg $700

depending on deals you come across you can get a whole lot done. even if paced out, and waited you can build your car up decently. craigslist over ebay so you can see what your buying. and RSX parts fit, some may need to be modified. but you can mix and match.

Kpro'd bolton'd 6speed ep3s look like fun on youtube : ) and that will get you an lsd.

K24a1 and k24a4s are alot cheaper than a2s and can be run with the stock ecu and RSX-s injectors if you want to opt out of kpro. ive seen k24a4s going for $400.

[lemonhead228]

Yea I would opt for the k24a1 since you can find it cheap and drop right in.

Search for used i/h/e. I think it's not worth it to drop 1000 on any i/h/e. if you do that's 1/3 your budget already.

Get a nice set of rims and tires. New rotors with hawk ceramic pads. Pretty nice /cheap up grade.

Here is for if you want to go faster:
Tires/ rims/ breaks ~1000
K24a1<1000
Intake ~ 150
OBXv2 ~ 100-200
Megan midpipe 2.5" >250

Here is for if you want to be safer/ enjoyable/ looks:

Tires/ rims/ breaks ~ 1000
RSX aspec ~600
Rear swap ~ 250
Intake ~ 150
OBXv2 ~ 100-200
Megan midpipe 2.25" >250
Wing / lips ~ 500

OBXv2 headers are the best deal. It's stainless steal, fits perfect and clear the front sway with the k24.. I bought my used(not sure how many miles*dont care*) and been using it over 2 years no problem. Some members can also vouch for these headers but if you wanna drop 600 on a brand header just for the name, by all means, it's your money. I kno you had problems in the pass with eBay stuff but I wouldn't be telling you this if it wasn't true..

Same goes for the Megan midpipe to stock axle back.. A lot of members are using them and is good. Can beat being quiteness also

You asking us ephatch members for the best mods for $3,000. We are telling you but you're rejecting some of us.. Just saying, we always here to help so no need to throw a fit

[honda2014]

I never even remotely Implied that, did you read my post? I questioned you IMMEDIATE modding. not your car choice. this shit is expensive.



dont know why you found ANYTHING I said offensive in any way shape or form.


your pretty thin skinned

additionally I quoted YOU, YOU said you would be a POOR COLLEGE KID.

dont get butt hurt.

Frankly I dont care really, I just thought you might want some of our knowledge on modding the ep.

I just made a suggestion that yo not blow every dime on your car IMMEDIATELY. I would do it gradually.
Sorry... The main point of the thread was to see what people would sped $3000 if they had it to do over again. I wanted to get broad opinions of the most basic modifications, since I had really not found anything summing up the whole car. I did't want people telling me to not blow every penny I had at one instant, because it wasn't about that at all, and I am not planning on it.

[honda2014]

Yea I would opt for the k24a1 since you can find it cheap and drop right in.

Search for used i/h/e. I think it's not worth it to drop 1000 on any i/h/e. if you do that's 1/3 your budget already.

Get a nice set of rims and tires. New rotors with hawk ceramic pads. Pretty nice /cheap up grade.

Here is for if you want to go faster:
Tires/ rims/ breaks ~1000
K24a1<1000
Intake ~ 150
OBXv2 ~ 100-200
Megan midpipe 2.5" >250

Here is for if you want to be safer/ enjoyable/ looks:

Tires/ rims/ breaks ~ 1000
RSX aspec ~600
Rear swap ~ 250
Intake ~ 150
OBXv2 ~ 100-200
Megan midpipe 2.25" >250
Wing / lips ~ 500

OBXv2 headers are the best deal. It's stainless steal, fits perfect and clear the front sway with the k24.. I bought my used(not sure how many miles*dont care*) and been using it over 2 years no problem. Some members can also vouch for these headers but if you wanna drop 600 on a brand header just for the name, by all means, it's your money. I kno you had problems in the pass with eBay stuff but I wouldn't be telling you this if it wasn't true..

Same goes for the Megan midpipe to stock axle back.. A lot of members are using them and is good. Can beat being quiteness also

You asking us ephatch members for the best mods for $3,000. We are telling you but you're rejecting some of us.. Just saying, we always here to help so no need to throw a fit

Thanks. I think I'll go with suspension and just save some money for bigger engine upgrades, if wanted. But that would be at least a year of having the ep. I may be fine with it. My 1993 accord, that has 300k miles and only made 140 at the crank from the factory, may just make the ep seem like a racecar. Sorry to be an ass.

[superchargedk20]

Emusa turbo kit
kpro
tune
Have fun beating most street cars that mess with u

[captaingamez]

Sorry... The main point of the thread was to see what people would sped $3000 if they had it to do over again. I wanted to get broad opinions of the most basic modifications, since I had really not found anything summing up the whole car. I did't want people telling me to not blow every penny I had at one instant, because it wasn't about that at all, and I am not planning on it.

dont worry man I will never give you any recommendations at all. I have no EP experience and my opinion is completely worthless.

but If you want to get along with people here........

lighten the fuck up.



and BY THE WAY. saving for the future of your car IS a way to spend some of that $3000.

[white_chris]

Aw, let's cut the kid a little slack. Remember what is was like to be in high school? I know I had all the answers, to be sure. He'll figure it out soon enough, don't worry ; )

Anyway, OP, I imagine that you're probably around 17 years old if you're going to be a senior in high school. So, I assume maybe you've been driving for about a year or so, and you mentioned it was an older Accord, which is a good, reliable car. I'm guessing it might also be your first.

What I suggest for you when you get the car is to do is this: drive it. A lot. I'm not saying that you're a bad driver, but you're inexperienced. And that's okay! We were all new at driving at some point in our lives. What I'm getting at is you might not have a feel for what your needs are for the car, because A) you haven't been driving that long, and 2) you haven't been driving an EP3 even longer. When you get the car, spend some time driving it and get a feel for what you like and don't like about it in its stock form. Think about what you'd like it to do better, then decide on the combination of parts and accessories that can make that goal realized. It might take some time, but the car is not going anywhere. Take 6 months, take a year, but take some time and just drive it. I thought I was going to do big things to my EP3 when I got it, but after I got more acquainted with the car, I changed my approach. Perhaps you might do the same, instead of spending $3K on a car that you might not like in the long run, or make a mistake buying parts, or some other misstep that might leave you with some buyer's remorse.

Here's the best thing about this approach. You can ADD money to your $3K pool as you take the time to get to know your new whip. So maybe you take half a year just to drive it around (your first semester, maybe?), and in that time add another $1K to your budget. You have more money to buy what you need, and you have a better idea as to what your needs are. That's what I'm suggesting to you: find out what your needs are.

I know it's a more abstract answer than "spend your money on THIS!", but it's an honest answer and what I have personally done. No regrets.

R/

C

[klik]

Buy a stock ep3 and start from there. maybe kpro next and k24a2 after that.